I sent an email requesting it. Will probably buy the exact same kit on Amazon again. Around $16 for a $5 board, and a $4 cable isn’t worth it. They charge around $7 for shipping. That shipping fee kills the deal, I can buy a kit on Amazon, with no shipping for $30.
Can one Raspberry Pi W do what I want? mjpg-streamer, and Kismet at the same time? Looks like Kismet has IDS too, according to Google.
Nice Kismet has a web UI. Assuming you use the beta.
I don’t mind using two Pis though. Wouldn’t have to buy another ethernet adapter, if one Pi can do it. Until I decide to do something else with the broken camera Pi board.
Pay around $50, and get the Pi 3 B+. Don’t really need that one though. That’s for a kit.
They canceled and refunded it while I was sleeping. Now I can order the kit, or the Pi 3 B+ kit.
Put it on the WiFi, so if somebody does get on my WiFi, they will eventually, I’ll know what they are doing. Maybe I’ll get a clue on who’s cracking everybody’s WiFi.
It’s my network, so I’m pretty sure it’s legal to sniff it.
Don’t want to put my 120 GB or 128 GB micro SD card in it though. The smaller one will be used with the new one. I suppose I could put the big micro SD card in the new one, but it won’t be recording locally.
The new one has no wireless, the one I have that I broke the camera connector, has WiFi.
You could install Snort on it. Does it even need to be on the WiFi VLAN to sniff traffic? My desktop might show the other VLAN when sniffing. Think it did last time I did so. Can’t put it on the wired network, only one USB ethernet adapter. And I’d need another micro OTG cable, might as well get an ethernet adapter with micro USB, I wouldn’t plug anything else into it. But wireless is free.
Might not work on the Zero. Snort still doesn’t support the Raspberry Pi? That post was from 2016. And why can’t you run it on WiFi? And Snort needs at least 1-2 GB of RAM.
Would need 5 GHz snooping, 2.4 GHz is disabled, somebody is still trying to connect.
Think an article I read said the Pi doesn’t support monitor mode, think the Pi 3, it’s supported on the Zero W, if you use this driver. Need another ethernet adapter and AC adapter, and micro SD card. Maybe a case too. Oh crap, I only have one heat sink. $10 for a kit, everything except ethernet and the power adapter. Should of paid $30 for another kit.
There’s some WPA Authentication Timeouts/Failures. The 2.4 GHz is disabled, so that means they are close.
They might of disconnected my phone just now.
Re enabled the 2.4 GHz. Got to change the password, that’ll make their brute forcing take longer, they’ll have to restart it.
Phone stays on the 2.4 GHz, unless somebody disconnects me.
Nice, 2.4 GHz lowered my phone’s internet connection to 34 Mbps, it was over 60 before. The reason I don’t like 2.4 GHz.
Disabled 2.4 GHz, high latency. Changed the 5 GHz channel. Still hasn’t switched to WiFi calling. For WiFi calling, you should disable cell, no texts if you do that. Unless WiFi calling is for texts too. I’ll just disable WiFi calling, since it can’t switch without dropping.
If you follow the advice on Reddit, about jamming stuff in the slot, to try and get the cable to stay and push it down, you’ll break it.
Oh yeah, thermal paste is useless, not sticky.
Don’t know if I’ll buy another one, seeing how fragile the clip is. Good luck using it without the clip, you’ll end up breaking it.
Adafruit doesn’t have a heat sink for it.
Raspberry Pi Zero v1.3 Camera Cable does that work with the Zero W? Should, they are basically the same, the W has WiFi. And thanks to the shipping, it would cost $22.85 from PiShop.us. Might as well buy another kit on Amazon for $30. The Amazon kit doesn’t come with a longer cable though.
Got the heat sink off, twist it, and it comes off. Nice, now I just need the board and a cable, Adafruit has a board pre soldered, with the GPIO header. Would cost $19.26 with the non W board, and a cable, from ameridroid.com. If the cable was cheaper, I’d buy it.
$16.40 for the non wireless board, and a cable. That’s from PiShop.us. The shipping kills the price. Under $10 without shipping.
Bought the one without wireless, from PiShop.us. Didn’t want to pay $30 + whatever a longer cable is. The long cable I have could work, no clip on the board makes it hard to know. Should of got the wireless one with the header soldered on though.
I should solder a header onto the wireless one, then I can use it for something else. That would be impossible though, shaky hands are no good for tiny soldering. Also, don’t know if I have a small enough tip.
Instructions for soldering, doesn’t look that hard, if you do it their way. And you solder on the other side, makes sense. Do you have to cut the perfboard after soldering it?
And it might be a power saving feature, good job Apple.
Damn, might be the AP not compatible with the iPhone 7. Or the WiFi cracker disconnected me again.
It’s a DFS channel, apparently that means the AP will change the channel if there’s interference. So the channel was probably being changed by the AP. Causing a reconnect, but didn’t reconnect until I turned the screen back on.
If you play Fallout 76, you know what I’m talking about.
Don’t remove the black thing on the camera connector on the Raspberry Pi, it broke from doing so. Thanks to my plumbing skills, I was able to get it to stay in the slot, with some electric tape.
Not much experience with ribbons, so I thought I needed to remove it, to get it in there, then it broke. The correct way, push up on the tabs on the black thing to “open” it, both edges. I did so on the camera I bought, needed to remove the cable it had on it, and use the other cable it came with. Thanks to the plumbing job, I had to use the top with the GPIO opeening, and put the cable in it, couldn’t get the Raspberry Pi Zero in the case going out the hole on the bottom.
No idea how people work on small electronics, screwing the lights onto the camera was a major pain in the ass. If I didn’t have a magnetic screwdriver, it would of been impossible.
Looks like the picture is blurry, I’m not unhooking it, and opening the damn thing.
How long is mjpg-streamer supposed to take at loading?
No data received from sensor. Check all connections, including the Sunny one on the camera board
My plumbing job failed. Using “raspistill -v -o test.jpg”. Why are the IR lights on? Oh wait, might need to reboot after rmmod something, made the camera as /dev/video0, but then I saw the fork of mjpg-streamer doesn’t need that.
Connection refused when trying to connect by SSH. Ping works though. Unplugged it.
Nope, got to check the connection now. Oh wait, it’s a third party camera. And the lights turn off when I unplug it. Might not work with raspistill. Nope, it should work.
Glue might work better. Don’t know where mine is. Possibly a power problem, might not have enough for the ethernet and the camera. Lights don’t turn on now.
The hack job was most likely fine. Now it can’t find the camera.
My glue is useless, either dried up, or nothing in it. How did I get it connected before? Now it can’t find the camera. Going to try the cable the Pi came with, maybe I damaged the other cable.
I finally gave up, it’s toast. Buy a new board, and see if the camera still works. Maybe a new cable too. Won’t even go in the slot anymore, on the board.
Damn, the heat sink won’t come off.
Not a licensed plumber.
You can’t buy just the board on Amazon? That’s a bummer. The board itself on ameridroid.com is $15, but sold out. Will the non W work with the same micro SD card? Probably, it is Raspbian.
The non w is $10 from that site. They want $6 for a fucking cable. Wonder how much they charge for shipping.
Nice, I’m not the only idiot that broke the plastic thing off. A piece of paper might work. Nope, paper doesn’t work, it bends.
And even with the clip, the bigger piece, the IR lights won’t turn on. So something is broken, either the connector on the board, and/or the camera.
The cable is bad, the short one works. But the plastic thing came flinging off. I know it works, because the IR lights came on. No ethernet plugged in, now I have to figure out how to keep it in place. Probably electrical tape.
Tape isn’t very sticky, so probably useless. Looks like only special tape is conductive. Spiderman duct tape it is.
The little plastic thing fell on the floor. Is glue conductive? Just glue it into it, except, I should get a longer cable. Or not.
Sugru Moldable Glue
That might work, do you put it on the cable? Good luck getting it inside the connector. That’s expensive though, $20. Wouldn’t non conductive glue work just as good? Problem is, the cable is short. The other cable is apparently dead.
What happens if you use something conductive? I have some Epoxy I think somewhere.
No Epoxy, some kind of lube. Grease stuff, I think it was for my RC car. But I never used it. You know what’s sticky? Thermal paste. Might need to dry though. Or does it need heat? I’ll let it dry all morning.
For a video card, you need something like Arctic Silver Adhesive. Do you really need that for a cable?
Any Epoxy will do. So if the thermal paste doesn’t dry and stick, then I’ll buy some Epoxy. Amazon doesn’t seem to sell Epoxy. I can probably get it in town anyways. Don’t think the case I bought will work with this short cable. Maybe without the lid. It’s $8 at the fabric place, think there’s one by my mom’s house. That’s Gorilla Glue Epoxy Syringe. Is that non conductive? Don’t think that’s what I want.
They don’t make already mixed Epoxy? I’m not mixing anything. I want it like glue.