Finally got the new Saints Row

I got the disc PS5 version for $30 at Walmart. I don’t buy PC games from Epic shit. Not sure why they are suing Apple, they are just as shitty as Apple.

I don’t recall what the bad reviews said. I find the game entertaining myself.

I could see giving the PS5 version a bad review, for not letting you turn the censorship off for down below. You can for tits, but not anything down below. Now that I think about it, that might be a Sony requirement.

Can you in the PC version? I don’t know if my character has a dick or not. They might, if you look at that area, with pants on.

Is this a man or a woman? Perhaps you can tell from this image.

Yes, you can see your character in cut scenes. Too bad I can’t go streaking censorship free. You can remove censorship from old Saints Row on the PC version.

My character has a chef hat, and an apron now. Tattoos are useless on my character, thanks to their skin.

Their voice is a female voice, with the pitch all the way up. Number six maybe? Yes, in cut scenes, they sound like that too.

Can you share characters? I can spend my time making characters, instead of playing it. Except, I need to play it, to buy every clothing item. And collect every vehicle in my garage. Who cares about the missions. Well, the crime opportunities are fun.

You can’t rob a tattoo parlor, I tried, pointed a gun at him, and nothing happened. The cops didn’t even come. Didn’t try shooting him though.

If it was online, like the Elder Scrolls Online, I’d get shot a lot. You can play with one other person I think. You probably need a membership though. Don’t have that, or know anybody with a PS5.

I play in 1080p max FPS mode. More FPS is better then 4k. Well, perhaps not on my TV. No VRR. So 60 is probably the most it can do. Does that mode get more then 60 FPS?

And why did it take so long for console games to add different settings? The PS4 was basically a PC too.

Another reason to get a new PS5 controller, is the battery life might be junk. Don’t get a Sony controller obviously. Either that, or the OS reports the life remaining wrong. Too bad a $180 PS5 controller has no vibration, you’d think for that much money, it would.

A HomeKit camera might be better then Scrypted

Zero notifications today too, even with low data mode disabled on my phone.

Not sure if Scrypted detected any motion while gone, I updated it before checking events, which clears events. Should have thought of that before updating it. What’s new in the updates is anyone’s guess, they don’t provide change logs. Some of the plugins do, but Scrypted itself doesn’t appear to.

I’ve been getting no notifications everyday when not home. Camera isn’t recording much either, one hour, only one image, and no videos.

I did unblock “local” on the DNS server, apparently one of the lists, is a hosts files for Windows or something. Not sure why a local request is going to the DNS server though, there was a query from the Apple TV for local.

I didn’t try setting it to notify me all the time. It’s set to only notify me when not home. Perhaps Apple’s spying tech is too stupid to know when I’m home or not.

PDP Victrix Pro BFG Wireless Controller for PS5

Can you update the firmware using a virtual machine? They only have shitty Windows software.

Turns out my Windows license still works, I gave a computer to my sister, with that key, but she may not have contacted Microsoft to get it activated. So I guess that computer has no valid Windows license on it, bummer for whoever has the computer now.

I only gave Windows 50 GB, so I won’t be testing any games with VirtualBox. Games work fine in Linux anyways, well most do. The Witcher 3 didn’t work fine, might be fixed by now.

Apparently the PDP controller has no vibration, and it costs $180. Don’t know if the $250 Razer controller has vibration, it does have an iOS app, so you don’t need Windows.

I guess if the cheaper controller doesn’t work with the software in a VM, you can send it back. It has an Xbox layout, that is the joysticks are in the same spot as an Xbox controller. I’m not buying an adapter, as they require the use of remote play or whatever. That sounds like a bad time.

I’m guessing Sony is the one causing the price of third party licensed PS5 controllers to be so high. Greedy assholes, that’s what most humans are.

Now to look for homebrew to map the buttons on my non Nintendo controller for my Switch. I forgot, you might be able to do so with homebrew, and my Switch is hacked. I think officially you can only do so with the Pro Switch controller by Nintendo, but based on the issues with the controllers that come with the Switch, I won’t buy any official Nintendo controllers. I always click the wrong button when playing the Switch, because it’s reversed compared to an Xbox controller. Apparently a $100 third party Switch controller has no vibration, because of Nintendo. Costs more then a Pro controller, and lacks vibration, because Nintendo is a greedy asshole. Thanks to CFW, you can give Nintendo the finger.

The 50 GB disk image is on my USB NVMe SSD. I could have given it more, but that was the default amount.

If the Store is glitchy, make the VirtualBox window bigger, that may have fixed it, guess it doesn’t like whatever resolution it was before.

Oh and expect spam from Microsoft after installing Windows. I don’t care about their file storage, I already pay for Mega, which has an official Linux program.

10:38 PM, Steam Deck woke itself up. Perhaps the time means something, or not.

HomeKit might not get notifications if low data mode is on

I assume that’s why I got no notifications when at a pizza place tonight for dinner. I noticed some days ago, Scrypted said it detected motion, but I never got any notifications that day either. Should have been on WiFi for some of that time though.

Now lets see how much data I use, probably too much.

Might need to switch to T-Mobile’s prepaid, apparently MVNOs have unknown limits. Like on MMS, they suspend you. If you have enough data, what’s the problem? And if they claim unlimited minutes, what’s wrong with using 1,440 minutes a day? That’s over 40k a month. They claim unlimited. You can’t do anything but talk on the phone if you do that though. So just leave a voice call open 24/7?

I also enabled OpenCV Motion Detection, it’s in Assist mode. I think Scrypted doesn’t get motion events from the camera always, not sure if it’s supposed to manually check or what it does. Perhaps it won’t miss motion events now. I should probably just change it to replace though.

Oh and Macs aren’t great for servers, if they reboot, and FileVault is on, well you have to login before anything can start, even if it’s set to start as root. I have an app on my Mac to edit the launch files, changed it to root, and it didn’t start until I logged in still. No auto login either.

You probably want encryption if you have a Mac. I’m too lazy to move HomeKit stuff to something else, and the Raspberry Pi’s CPU sucks, so I’d have to disable OpenCV Motion Detection. Don’t need any load on the desktop’s CPU 24/7. The mini uses less power. Not sure if it’s cooler or hotter though. With a tiny load not that hot. The desktop needs to live forever, it has lots of storage attached to it. Also, it’s GPU is better then the Mac mini’s.

All the motion detected while gone was boring, from the pictures, looks like nothing. That’s what happens with the sensitivity set low. If you replace the motion sensor in Scrypted with OpenCV Motion Detection, you can make it less sensitive, and still make sure you capture everything. The camera will still be set low and still save recordings to my computer. I just won’t get all those notifications. You only need to know if there’s a person in your apartment, not dust or a bug. That is when not home. You don’t really need to know if anything woke itself up when not home either.

Ahh KDE might have broken Firefox on my desktop

The Flatpak Firefox. Looks like same bug with DirectAdmin as on going to my router web interface.

I refreshed Firefox, reinstalled it, and deleted all it’s data, and still DirectAdmin has issues.

If you have a reseller account, go to User, and try to select a different domain, it won’t click it, and if you try going to anything after doing so, it says you don’t own the domain. Probably has no domain selected.

On the router interface, I can’t always logout, because when I try to click the logout button it hides itself, it’s in a popup dialog thing. So hides the dialog, you can logout, by inspecting the page, and putting a checkmark by hover.

Not sure how to fix the nice bug in DirectAdmin. Thought it was OpenSnitch, because I paused it and it started working. But it turns out, if you open a terminal, go back to Firefox, you can then change the domain. You can probably open anything and go back to Firefox and it’ll work again. Maybe even minimizing it.

Does openSUSE test their updates? Cause this is annoying as fuck. Firefox Flatpak has no issues on my Steam Deck, should be same Firefox version. Chrome has no issues on desktop. I don’t think I have the Plasma extension installed.

I even disabled all the protection plugins for the DirectAdmin site, that seemed to fix it, but really not the problem.

Did it break the system Firefox too? It’s an older version, so not worth testing, security holes most likely in it. Speaking of, why isn’t it updated yet? And Plasma extension doesn’t work in Flatpak Firefox.

You might only need to inspect the page to make it work. I inspected where it says Select.

How long until BuyShared bans me for using a buggy OS? It was getting 500 internal errors in the console. They might think I’m probing for holes. No I’m just trying to figure out why the fuck it doesn’t work. I didn’t email support, because their end is most likely fine. Maybe they’ll email me “Are you using a buggy OS?” and I’ll say “Yes boss”.

Who do you report the bug to? I prefer to wait for bugs to get fixed without me doing anything. To test if it’s KDE, you need to test in another desktop environment. Perhaps the latest Firefox is incompatible with whatever KDE I have.

Can’t recall if the problem happened after updating Firefox, or something else. If the system Firefox was the same version, I could test with that. Perhaps that’s why no system Firefox update yet, it might have issues with KDE in openSUSE. Good idea, see if Mozilla’s site still has the precompiled non Flatpak Linux packages, test that.

Damn it, can’t test it yet, a YouToot video is playing. It’s live, but I started late, damn bowels.

If I open it, it’ll most likely just open a new window in Flatpak Firefox, that’s what the system Firefox does.

And the problem exists with the Firefox from Mozilla’s site too, not the Flatpak. At least with DirectAdmin, and apparently inspecting the page, doesn’t always fix it. Too lazy to install another DE, or even see if I have another one. I could test with no DE, but that’s too much work too. Easier option, is rolling back the system, from the last zypper dup. Or maybe the last one before the last one. And maybe the last one before that one. But I’m lazy, so I’ll enjoy my broken Firefox. Half ass working Firefox, is fine with me. Just like when I clean, I half ass clean. I should half ass wipe too.

Amcrest looks horrible, if it takes too long to switch to night mode

Look at this image. If it changed to black and white mode, and IR, it would look better. Maybe didn’t even need the IR yet.

Perhaps using the Day/Night profile is a bad idea, you can’t change some settings in that mode. I changed it to full time “day”, but it’ll still change to black and white and IR. After doing that, you can set the Sensitivity under Day & Night. Must be why the old camera was on the Day profile full time, I couldn’t remember why it was.

Clearly it’s auto settings are ass. That’s a lot of noise, so much, the image might be useless in identifying somebody. You can clean it up with Neat Image, but you lose detail and noise. I was thinking of setting the other camera to black and white 24/7, but color can be nice.

Perhaps that’s what the image looks like for people who say the image quality is horrible. Or worse then other brands.

You can change it to shutter priority, but I’m too lazy to turn the lights on, to see if it’s too bright with the slowest shutter. It’s fine with a lamp on. No idea if it solved the 5 PM problem. The IR will probably turn on now, and change to black and white.

The camera may be too stupid to change the shutter speed to a good value. Well, saving to NFS doesn’t work, so no surprising harder things don’t work. All they’d have to do to get NFS working, is use Linux for the firmware, or more updated Linux. Don’t ask me how to make auto shutter mode on a camera. Maybe Auto is using gainFirst.

If you change to manual mode, you can make the shutter even slower, and then it’s too bright. Or maybe not too bright. Black and white may be too bright with that shutter speed though.

Should turn the lights on and see what 1/10 looks like. Leave the lamp on too. If it isn’t overexposed, it might work fine. Perhaps change the other camera to the same setting.

Might get rid of the balls of light being recorded too. If it’s dust. Exposure is probably perfect for the lights on. That means not perfect for the lights off and only lamp on. Might also be the auto setting.

Don’t open the blinds, that’ll really make it overexposed.

And that’s why you should use Day/Night profile, when is it using Night though? Only when IR and it’s black and white or at a certain time? If it’s using Night at 5 PM, you can increase the shutter speed for just Night, and keep it auto for Day. Set other camera to 1/8.

You can do a schedule too, but I’m lazy. And thanks to the sun, when it gets darker changes. Too much work changing that all the time.

Don’t recommend setting to manual mode. The video freezes. Even the timer freezes.

Oh and I’m not getting notifications for all motion. If I look at camera log, there were events around 4 PM and even before, but didn’t get any notifications until 5 PM or so. In Scrypted it has no events for around 4 PM, I think around 2 PM was the last until 5 PM. And it also recorded stuff between 2 PM and 5 PM, how I knew it detected motion.

So it looks like HomeKit using Scrypted may be useless. Could have saw Steam Deck waking itself up, if it notified me.

Based on the amount of noise around 5 PM in the images, you can say this camera looks worse then my old camera. Good job at making a worse camera. So much noise, you wouldn’t be able to identify somebody. Luckily, there’s another camera, that probably goes into night mode sooner. I changed it back to auto for exposure too. As it freezes too. Maybe I should send it back, and look for something else.

The Mac mini shouldn’t be sleeping. And if it was sleeping, the events would probably look a lot different.

Doesn’t really make sense, as it’s been detecting motion since I’ve been home. Did Scrypted crap out or something until after 5 PM? The camera was having no issues recording to FTP, so the camera didn’t completely crap out, if it all. Home Assistant perhaps I should try, but I’m too lazy. To run that on a Mac, you have to use a VM. VirtualBox isn’t ready for Apple Silicon Macs yet.

If the network crapped out, why not the camera to desktop? The camera is on one of the switches by the TV. Just like the Apple TV.

There doesn’t appear to be a bug report for it.

“unhandledRejection Error: Request failed with status code 500” under events for the Amcrest plugin, somebody that got a 500 status code, they said the camera or something else crashed. Something else, I don’t know what, as they said or but nothing after it. Like server, or switch or who knows.

And if the camera crashed, how did it record stuff? And that was around 5 PM. And I might have to go on Mac to find the log. And who knows what day that was, could have been changing settings on the camera and it rebooted.

Wonder how people found the log file location. Searching DuckDuckGo finds nothing, guess you have to search the entire Scrypted folder for the logs. Somebody said it works better in a container on Apple Silicon.

“./volume/scrypted.db/LOG” the only LOG I can find.

iOS 16.4 beta may allow 5G on Tello

Look at this on Reddit, there’s a comment, and they clearly are getting 5G, based on speed test.

So Apple stopped being a dick? That’s surprising. But good news for me, I’ll get 5G soon.

Apple failed at forcing me to use an approved carrier. I almost never use mobile data, so heck if I care if it’s 5G or not. They use T-Mobile, and the phone was bought from T-Mobile I’m pretty sure. So it’s capable of getting 5G on Tello.

I’ll upgrade once it’s not a beta anymore. Might have to get more data, depending on how much security camera notifications use. The sensitivity on camera is probably as high as you can make it, and that means stuff you don’t care about will be detected. Not that high, and some stuff you care about won’t be detected.

The other camera has a closer view of the door though, so perhaps I should add that to HomeKit too. As if somebody sees a camera, they might not enter all the way. The main camera might not be able to see them if they don’t enter, but only open the door. The other camera probably can see them.

Apple likes artificially limiting their devices. Hurting their customers is fine with them. That’s what greed does to people, makes them assholes.


My main security camera is available using HomeKit now. You can make Amcrest cameras work with HomeKit using Scrypted, I installed on my Mac mini, it ain’t doing anything.

I’m too cheap to pay for storage from Apple, so no recording for me. But I can view it live, and get notifications when not home.

They have a NVR paid plugin, looks like $40 per year. If I knew you could use HomeKit with other stuff, that isn’t HomeKit certified, I may have bought a different camera, and that NVR plugin. Except, I like Ethernet.

I got it to work with transcoding. And restarting Scrypted. Set it to your local IPv4 address, and then restart it. Transcoding because I want H265 for my saved recordings, still being saved to FTP from the camera. So I don’t really need a NVR.

I connect to my VPN on my Raspberry Pi to add HomeKit stuff, I also have Homebridge. I was going to use it for the camera, but the plugin I found, may be dead. I only have my air purifier on that, too much work for surge protector, you have to create an account, then renew a trial every six months, no thanks. Oh and it requires internet, so rebooting your modem isn’t possible, you can shut it off, but not turn it back on.

And Home works on the Apple Watch, even the camera.

Isolated VLANs, that’s why I use a VPN. Two way audio has feedback, and I’m too lazy to mess with settings. Might scare the shit out of somebody if they enter my apartment and I’m not home.

Don’t ask me how to uninstall it on the Mac, their GitHub doesn’t seem to say. It wasn’t working, so I thought I was going to need to get rid of it.

Is it using internet when using over the VLAN? Cause it still seems to work without the VPN. If it’s over the internet, I’m surprised my upload is good enough, I can’t tell if it’s using the high quality stream, or the other one, which is H264 so might not need transcoding. Hmm maybe I should disable transcoding for the remote stream.

I’m not testing it on cell connection, I have limited data.

From reviews, Amcrest may have the worse video quality. So if you are using Scrypted and don’t mind it possibly getting hacked thanks to WiFi, buy something else. Not to mention, WiFi devices can be kicked off the internet by somebody.

Don’t know if audio detection works, it hasn’t detected any yet, yes I enabled HomeKit audio detection. Well, my phone won’t notify me when home. But when logged into Scrypted in a browser, it will tell you if there’s been any audio detected.

The micro SD card came, I put it in new camera. After testing with f3write and f3read. Should have bought two, one for old camera too.

Old camera probably won’t be added to it. I don’t want to kill it. Also, it’s in the same room. Not really needed to add it too. I should put it in my room, but I’d need a long Ethernet cable, no idea how long.

I could have tried putting Scrypted in a container, but there’s no official instructions on doing so for macOS. I’m sure you can figure out how to do it yourself easily though, use Lima.

The video isn’t exactly live with transcoding. I disabled transcoding for remote.

This software would be worth paying for, better then paying $150+ for HomeKit cameras. One that can connect to the Apple TV directly is $150 for the camera, if you don’t have an Apple TV or something else for the Hub, well that will be expensive. Another brand has a camera on sale for $80 and you need a smart hub thing for $100.

Will the HomeKit update break it? I won’t be updating until I have an answer, and the next iOS isn’t out yet anyways.

Nice, I can view my camera in bed now. On my Apple Watch. The screen is kind of small though, so not a very good experience.

I trust HomeKit more then any camera’s own cloud crap. If Google has a Home thing, I’d trust that more then any camera’s own cloud crap too. Too lazy to get out of bed? Look at your Apple Watch to see who entered your apartment.

I might get a lot of false alarms though, thanks to how the motion detection is configured on camera. It will most likely detect all motion, but also not motion. I like it recording when stuff gets woke up. But if all you want is creature notifications, perhaps change the setting. If you record to iCloud, you can get AI stuff. Does that mean it’ll make one long ass recording 24/7? That’ll use a lot of bandwidth. Probably make my internet go out too.

Amcrest IP4M-1041B

You definitely get more resolution with that camera, then the Amcrest IP2M-841B. Worth $50, for the higher resolution.

It said to update the firmware, but according to the version, it’s the latest. The build date is different then the date on their firmware page. Took them that long to publish the firmware? I won’t bother updating, it’s blocked from internet, and not using WiFi.

Oh and to disable the logo, you have to be on the right web interface, I was on the old camera, confused why it was disabled already. It saves to NFS the same way as old one.

Old one is on desk, and turns out uses a USB cable, so plugged it into Steam Deck Dock. I forgot if it used a USB cable plugged into a brick, both of them do. And I think the output is the same on both bricks, 5v 1.5A.

The third party Steam Deck Dock I have, might be hot. Finger touched it, and seems hot. That is part of the stand that you put the Deck on. Is the bottom of the Deck hot? Nice and dusty the Deck is.

More resolution as in more detail in the image.

Lots of videos that I can’t play in VLC. Can I downgrade the firmware?

The password should only be 32 characters long, I used my paste_vnc script, to paste the password, and didn’t realize the entire password wasn’t typed in, so couldn’t log in. Checked length of password for other camera, and it’s 32 characters long. Used the first 32 characters of password, and it logged in.

sh -c 'sleep 5.0; xdotool type "$(xclip -o -selection clipboard)"'

That’s how you bypass their “security”. Oh don’t use special characters, unless you know which ones are allowed.

I don’t think upgrading the firmware will bring more security, they don’t want you using random passwords, unless you can remember it.

Might be more noise in the image too. You can adjust the noise setting, but I’ll pass, might remove detail.

Flowblade says the videos that can’t play aren’t valid media files.

The “noise” might be compression. Change the max bit rate to the max. Or not, my arm is noisy. Maybe smart codec makes corrupt videos. Nope, might be H265 then, without that, the files will be bigger. Might try “upgrading” the firmware, maybe the one on their site is a newer build.

If you go over the previous firmware link, it might have the build date of what I have on it, but same version. Good way to get people not to upgrade. Use the same version.

It says to import your settings, if you don’t want to reconfigure it. Does that mean reset to default settings, upgrade, restore? Well, that’s what I’m doing.

Still corrupt videos. Perhaps it’s not meant to have motion enabled, if somebody is ever in the camera’s view for a long time. You won’t find any help on DuckDuckGo.

Maybe Anti-Dither shouldn’t be 5? Is on other camera, no issues, with old firmware. Nope, didn’t fix it.

Perhaps that video corruption, at the beginning of some videos, is now making the entire video corrupt. It shows gray at the beginning of some of the videos. How much space would H264 use? Search their forum for corrupt, and other people have the same issue. If you search for video on DuckDuckGo and corrupt, it can’t find it, probably because some of the posts say files.

Nice, you probably won’t get help fixing it. Old camera seems to be fine though. Probably their original has older firmware, that doesn’t have the new corrupt feature.

If H264 doesn’t work, I guess you have to use software to record it. That is don’t use the NFS feature. Add it to some third party software. There’s one called Motion or something.

But why did I buy Amcrest if I can’t use the NFS feature? The other cameras probably have better image quality. Not sure they have as much detail though. Hmm, perhaps put something on Mac mini. Then it won’t use my desktop’s CPU. First H264 video not corrupt.

Somebody asked if having a micro SD card would fix it. Mine hasn’t come yet, so no idea, Amazon is a dick. I think I know why they didn’t ship it together, they just stuck a label on the box my camera came in, no extra box. I probably won’t buy much from Amazon anymore. That is tempting somebody to steal what you bought.

Two videos not corrupt so far with H264, one is corrupt, but that might be when changing the setting. Three not corrupt. Really, it can’t do H265? Well, I may not be keeping 30 days of video then. Four not corrupt now. Might be fixed. I’ll check later if there’s any corrupt videos.

The new one’s web interface seems faster, which would suggest better hardware, but can’t handle H265. Nice feature eh. I think their support forum is useless.

H264 didn’t fix it, just made it less of an issue. So changed it back to H265. Looking for Mac software now.

The cheapest solution would be using Linux software in Podman. Assuming that works on my Mac. I might have something like it on there.

The laziest solution, might be FTP. Going to try that before trying to find software. The motion software is motionEye, I’ve used it. You can put it in Docker/Podman.

Finally got FTP working, you can’t create folders in the root folder. Also, you have to change the shell to /bin/false. Now to see if it works with the camera, that was with FileZilla. Well, good luck, it can’t connect for some reason. You have to save before clicking test.

Now to wait, and see if videos are corrupt. Probably will be. So all that work for nothing. Unless their NFS is broken.

I don’t think it supports SSL for FTP, so don’t bother setting a hard to read password. Any password you set, anybody sniffing your local wired traffic can read.

To find corrupted files fast, use Dolphin, it shows thumbnails if the video isn’t corrupted, no thumbnail = corrupted. Hmm, so far so good. Good, I don’t want to unconfigure insecure local FTP server. Need to change cronjob for deleting old folders. It has the wrong path now, and I can rm -fr the other folder.

That gray video corruption might not be in any of the files. I should change the other camera to FTP too, but I’m lazy. Probably needs firmware updated, then change to FTP, too much work.

Six video files, no corruption yet. Does that mean it’s finally fixed?

And NFS could be a problem with something on my computer. Might need a setting changed. I know using rsync over NFS to a Raspberry Pi is slow. What about restic over NFS? I need a better backup method then rsync, for my internal 6 TB drive. It’s uses rsync to the Pi.

So I could have bought a camera with FTP but no NFS. Too bad NFS doesn’t work.

No need for local NTP server

Redirect a port, any local port, to an external NTP server.

The security camera isn’t getting internet access, but it can access everything local.

Not using iptables, I don’t want an incoming firewall. Also, I have an outgoing firewall, does it use iptables? No idea. I just allowed socat always, but only to I should specify the port too though in the outgoing firewall.

cat ./.config/systemd/user/socat-forward-4040.service
Description=Forwards localhost:4040 to

ExecStart=/usr/bin/socat UDP-LISTEN:4040,fork,reuseaddr


I’m too lazy to setup a local NTP server. You can’t use all ports, if not root. Root is insecure.

Hmm, the Switch may be able to use that, if it uses NTP. Too bad Ethernet isn’t plugged into it. Not even sure it’s still blocked from internet. And IPv6 was never blocked. No idea if it uses IPv6.

Yes it works, if I put the obviously incorrect time in, it shortly gets updated to the correct time.

It might be cameras soon. If the old camera goes on desk, it might be able to see a little in my bedroom, that is the bed. Maybe I’ll see myself disappearing. So a sort of camera in my bedroom. Just close the door, if you don’t want to be recorded. I don’t care.

The WantedBy was wrong, updated the service above. I rebooted, and it didn’t start, after fixing it, I rebooted to test, and it started.

How to fix nomacs after updating openSUSE

There’s two ways to fix it, use LD_PRELOAD, or make a link to the new path. Oh you might also be able to wait for them to upgrade nomacs.

nomacs: error while loading shared libraries: cannot open shared object file: No such file or directory

That is what it says after updating. You can also rollback openSUSE. No idea why they didn’t update that package. Running ldconfig doesn’t fix anything.

LD_PRELOAD=/usr/lib64/openblas-pthreads/ nomacs that is how you run it without making a link.

sudo ln -s /usr/lib64/openblas-pthreads/ /usr/lib64/ and that is how you make a link, so you don’t have to use LD_PRELOAD.

You could also try a different libopenblas package, but I’m lazy.

ldd /usr/bin/nomacs | grep "" => /usr/lib64/ (0x00007fadcee48000)

So it is indeed looking in /usr/lib64, not /usr/lib64/openblas-pthreads/. I didn’t run ldd before running ln -s. I just made a guess it was looking in /usr/lib64. I probably would have looked a ldd if that didn’t work.

It broke the AMD GPU script I use to manage the fan speed on my GPU, it uses Python.

sudo pip3 install numpy --upgrade

That’s how I fixed it. But I might restore the snapshot, as clearly updating by zypper is a bad idea. What else doesn’t work? And if the packages came from the official repo, that’s BS. They don’t test anything I guess, or they upload crap before they are done with the rest. After I eat dinner, I’m just going to restore the backup, as I don’t feel like trying to find what else is broken.

Update #2
Restored snapshot. And there’s only one Psensor icon now, just like before I updated.

I think you can tell zypper to only update from a specific provider. The one with the non free codecs, likes uploading stuff not all at once.

Guess you can’t do that, DuckDuckGo can’t find anything. Even though I remember seeing something about it, guess I remembered wrong. If you disable the repository, and try updating, you’ll have to solve lots of problems. Not worth it, just to see if those updates are coming from which repository.

I went to openSUSE Reddit, and found this. I had that problem. Why I reverted to an old snapshot again.

The correct solution is to use update-alternatives. Going to upgrade again, and run that afterwards.

#Python numpy
sudo update-alternatives --config
sudo update-alternatives --config
sudo update-alternatives --config
sudo update-alternatives --config openblas-default

Nice bug SUSE.

Make sure you type 1, or it’ll say “update-alternatives: warning: forcing reinstallation of alternative (null) because link group is broken”. And it appears to do nothing, as there isn’t a symlink in /usr/lib64 for it. And it doesn’t work at all for

“update-alternatives: error: no alternatives for”, so I guess you have to manually do it, nice.

Probably should test everything, or I should have not upgraded again.

amdgpu-fan works, so I guess everything is fine. Lame you have to manually link for nomacs. And why did KDE change the border on the Konsole window? At least when there’s no window under it.

You might need too. I’m running update-alternatives –all. Now I can see all the ones that have no link. I actually was trying to find

You can type 0 instead of one, does the same thing, if there’s only one alternative. It’s openblas-default, and I accidentally skipped it.

Why does –all say anything about It isn’t installed. And openblas-default doesn’t create the needed link for nomacs.

liblapack3 is installed, but liblapacke3 isn’t. Easy to get them mixed up.

Amcrest might be the only cheap security cameras that can record to a NFS share

Some horrible reviews on Amcrest. I had to downgrade the firmware in the past, because it was having lots of issues after updating it. Possibly corrupt videos, don’t recall what else if anything else.

But a lot of the reviews are about their cloud crap. I don’t use that, and I doubt it can connect to it anyways, it’s blocked from the internet.

Using a Raspberry Pi will most likely be a bad time, at least if you use the Zero or whatever. And how much will it cost if you get a Pi 4 if you can even buy one? Motion detection might use CPU, so you’ll have a bad time with any Pi. You can stream it to some other computer, but then something else has to run the software. I like my CPU being idle on my desktop. And streaming at the max FPS and resolution from a Pi Zero, will be a bad time. Probably even worse over WiFi, then USB Ethernet.

I did finally get it to work on the Pi. But the cameras on security cameras, might have better image quality anyways. I can’t recall what I used to make it able to stream it. Probably a Python script, that is for something else. I didn’t want whatever that script or whatever was part of. Maybe it wasn’t a Python script. May have had to compile it. That’s a bad time, if you don’t use distcc.

And I don’t know how to make a custom camera that you can move like the Amcrest camera I have. That is move remotely. The lens, not the entire camera. I suppose you could probably easily make the entire thing move. I’ll pass.

I may have bought a new camera, even with horrible reviews. If they keep the NFS feature working, they may keep selling cameras. I assume security cameras die, and I want higher resolution. I won’t update the firmware, unless there’s a problem. Somebody on Reddit, I think two years ago, bought Amcrest for the same reason, but said everything is put in one folder. That isn’t how mine works. It’s nice and organized, and I’m pretty sure I didn’t do a damn thing. I have a cronjob to delete old stuff. And I think I bought this camera in 2021. So what they didn’t update the firmware? Or the new firmware removed that? Or they bought completely different cameras.

One review on the one I may have bought, said it’s almost impossible to make it a proper remotely accessible IP camera. Really? Never tried, I assume they mean by port forwarding, and if a non static IP from ISP, NO-IP or something. They said you could on the old ones. Mine even has DDNS on it, but you can get that without using it on the camera itself. Use a Raspberry Pi Zero. Or your router. Two years old is old enough to be able to let hackers access it?

I wouldn’t do that with any security camera, or anything on my network. Or I mean on my wired network. The smart crap, doesn’t need port forwarding, and it’s on WiFi, so who cares. I can rate limit the entire WiFi VLAN if I wanted to. Then if somebody gets on my WiFi, they might be slightly pissed. And I might be as well. I’ll have to plug Ethernet into my phone.

What I need is a local NTP server for the security camera. Or a relay. So I don’t have to allow it internet access. And possibly not ever update the time again manually. If they get rid of daylight savings time, it won’t matter so much.

If you’re looking for a stinky time, checkout Uranus.

You know how to clean Uranus out? Use a spray bottle, fill it up with water. That’s what somebody did to me in my dream. I try to control my dreams, but I end up saying “Dream nothing” and that doesn’t work. The dreams aren’t exactly what I want. No idea how to get myself to stop requesting dreams altogether. Perhaps by getting out of bed the first time I wake up. If I do that, I might eventually not be sleeping. As then the requests I do, will happen earlier and earlier, until I don’t sleep anymore.

That isn’t exactly how you lucid dream. Requesting isn’t the same thing. I have done lucid dreaming I think, and there was no thought of dream this or that. I was literally controlling the entire dream, not handing it off to automation.

Too lazy to lucid dream properly, so I’ll keep making requests. Now if I stopped remembering anything while sleeping, I could sleep 24/7. No more weird dreams.

When you find out your backups are useless

My root backup doesn’t contain everything, because openSUSE is a dick, and makes a ton of sub volumes or something. I don’t want to backup everything in /media, not enough space to do that. Not to mention, that would be a lot of duplicated stuff.

Well, Timeshift is completely useless, computer may have been getting kernel panics after restoring that.

So I then restored my restic backup, when I found out, some folders, like /var is a different mount. Well it booted, but it couldn’t set the keyboard language or something. Instead of a login screen, I got a big keyboard, in British English I think.

I needed to restore, because I updated, and it killed the image viewer I use. Well, I tried restoring the snapshot using Yast, well the files, and then it wouldn’t boot anymore.

The read only snapshot works, but I didn’t know how to restore it to that, you run sudo snapper rollback after booting a read only snapshot.

I’m guessing it updated a library the image viewer uses, but somehow the image viewer doesn’t have an update yet. What repo is the image viewer installed from? If the official one, openSUSE is a dick.

Didn’t need to restore/delete stuff with Timeshift when it restored the backup. Who knows what it deleted. Hmm, my data usage for my internet, is probably wrong now. Cacti is probably restored to 3 AM.

Hmm, Timeshift might be 12 am or 1 am. Should restore the restic /home backup from 3 AM, but I’m lazy, so I won’t. Would have been way faster to run that snapper command the first time.

restic -r /media/backup/Linux backup –one-file-system / /var /.snapshots /boot /opt /usr/local /root that’s how you backup the other partitions, without backing up /media. You could put /home in the same backup, if you wanted to. But then if you run restore snapshot, it’ll restore /home, rather you need to or not. You can mount it, and manually restore stuff, but one command is easier.

I should probably stop using Timeshift, as apparently it’s mostly useless. It might be fine for /home, but nothing else.

Maybe it didn’t do anything to Cacti, not sure how Timeshift decides what to restore and/or delete. Hard to say, Comcast says I’ve used under 1 GB of data, Cacti says over 100 GB. Don’t know what Cacti said before messing with backups.

Switching to BuyShared

If you are reading this, it’s loading on BuyShared now. No more Texas hosting, sorry ExtraVM. I want hosting in the US, and the only location in the US they have is Texas. Canada would be fine as well.

Waiting to find out if SSH is enabled. Then I can upload my static sites, my paranormal site is still on ExtraVM, it won’t be for long, just waiting to see if SSH works or not, the default port doesn’t. Control panel doesn’t seem to say what the port is.

Oh I should look at the billing panel.

It’s also $2 cheaper, and possibly more space, I got a bad memory. I might upgrade to the $4 per month plan eventually. They claim to have MailChannels, so I could get rid of my email provider.

The billing panel doesn’t say anything about SSH port either.

Don’t want to set it up as FTP in rclone, and then have to delete it, and resetup as sftp.

Oh and I was marked as fraud, thanks to Comcast for giving me an IP address over 1,000 miles away. They said I could try using my cell internet, I did so, and it worked. And you only have to do for new orders. I guess I lost my status, from having service for so long before, but then having no service. It bypasses the checks, if you get upgraded, so in the future, I should be able to place new orders with an IP 1,000 miles away. switched over, and the PHP is outdated. That’s good for security. You can’t select a new enough version. I used the file manager to upload the backup. And extract it. Still waiting to find out SSH port.

Cloudflare makes changing hosts fast and easy, just change the DNS on Cloudflare, and it might be instant. Still waiting for SSH port. Maybe tomorrow or the next day, or next week.

Oh yeah, according to DirectAdmin, it’s using an AMD CPU. No Intel junk is hosting this site. Okay, maybe Intel network cards, but no Intel CPUs. Their network cards are fine, everything except their CPUs.

And it looks like BuyShared was a bad idea, six hour old ticket, zero reply. Only asking if it has SSH and what the port is. None of their sites appear to say what the port is. It appears as though I have SSH. They just don’t tell you the port. Shouldn’t have canceled old hosting, I might be able to cancel the cancel request.

Finally got the SSH port, the next day around 6 AM. I won’t be sharing the port, as then bots will hammer their SSH. Also, if I have to wait a long ass time to get it, so do you.

BuyShared is back in stock

Their site doesn’t say if they have SSH access. Don’t recall if they did, last time I had it. I think it’s like $2 cheaper a month for their cheapest reseller plan, then the non reseller plan I have from somebody else. You get cPanel if you get non reseller hosting, and you pay yearly instead of monthly. Don’t want cPanel.

Hmm, might not need SSH access anyways. I think rclone works with FTP. But they probably don’t have WP-CLI, if there’s no SSH, why would they? That’s how I backup my WordPress site’s database. And then it uses tar I think to backup the files. That might not be supported though.

Oh and the hosting I have, is most likely faster. BuyShared has a better US location, it’s not in Texas.

I’m probably too lazy to change DNS on Cloudflare, and restore my sites to BuyShared anyways. Easier to pay $4 a month.

I have my own backup, in case something happens to host, and I think my current hosting doesn’t have backups, if it does, you apparently can’t restore yourself. And according to the post I read, it doesn’t sound like BuyShared reseller DirectAdmin plans have any backups yet. Or is it just the new servers?

How slow is WordPress on BuyShared?

Hmm, perhaps almost nobody uses this host’s shared hosting, in that case, I should switch before they discontinue it.

I don’t care about uptime. All I care about is not managing a server. And this host has been down for unknown reasons. Apparently I never emailed support about it. Probably managing the server.

Oh and the Harry Pooter author is apparently anti trans, I never liked Harry Pooter anyways. Now I have another reason to not like Harry Pooter.

I already paid this month’s hosting bill. Oh and when I login to my account on their site, not the control panel for the hosting, but for payment, I get a 404 error, after entering my two step code. I’m too lazy to email them about that either. Also, it could be an extension in Firefox messing it up.

Will they have stock at the end of the month? Probably not. WordPress might be too slow on their server anyways.

Oh if you need a date, find one online, you can lie about anything and everything. In my case, I make people not want to date me.

And I think I can cancel my email provider, none of the emails get any email. Might as well use the email provided by the shared hosting, you don’t need good delivery, if you get zero emails. Perhaps it gets spam, but the spam gets blocked. That’s some nice spam protection, that I didn’t have to configure. In that case, keep the email. I’ll keep the email anyways, as it’s a special deal.

And I need to stop using Google, but I’m too lazy to do so. I don’t think I can change my email on all my accounts, so I’m screwed.

After I take my medicine, I’ll be updating my Switch. Does my Switch even work anymore?

If you can’t backup your BuyShared site using tar and WP-CLI, ask them how to make an automatic backup, you can download and delete with rclone. I store it on my computer and MEGA. MEGA may not be supported by any WordPress backup plugins. Or I couldn’t find anything.

You can run 64bit Channels DVR on Raspberry Pi without reinstalling a 64bit OS

Use the 64bit kernel, that you most likely have. Add arm_64bit=1 to the end of /boot/config.txt to use the 64bit kernel. I think the 64bit kernel is kernel8.img in /boot. If you don’t have it, bummer.

Just reinstall Channels DVR after doing that. I moved the Channels DVR folder and then ran the install script. And then restored a backup.

Did realize, that Chromium is most likely 32bit, but I think TV Everywhere still works. But you can use the new maintained transcoder if you use the 64bit Channels DVR. I was having issues with watching anything in a web browser, I was making sure a channel OTA still works, as it’ll be recording from it soon, and it likes to stop working randomly, requiring adjusting antenna. Don’t actually need to be able to watch in a web browser, but I prefer everything to work.

Oh and doing that is probably unsupported. But I’m incredibly lazy, and don’t want to reinstall and reconfigure and install everything. Yes you can copy config crap to a folder somewhere, and restore it, you still have to install all the crap you had before. And I’m incredibly lazy. Can’t even recall what all I have on it.

I had to downgrade the firmware to get the web browser watching to work. At least with the hardware transcoder. You can find the instructions on their forum.

Oh and my Raspberry Pi is hotter now. Perhaps I need a bigger USB fan.

I’ll probably reinstall the OS eventually, like when the next major version comes out, you are supposed to reinstall, not update. So perhaps I’ll switch to a different distro that doesn’t require doing that.

Well, that sucks, the Arch Linux ARM, says you don’t get closed source crap if you use 64bit Arch Linux ARM on the Pi 4. Does hardware transcoding work with Arch Linux ARM on the Pi 4? Otherwise, I guess you have to use the OS provided by Raspberry Pi people. Which claims you have to reinstall on every new version. You can not do that, but you may have issues, and it isn’t supported. Or just don’t upgrade it.

I’m not using the Raspberry Pi Channels DVR OS image. It’s being used for other stuff too, not just Channels DVR.

Now you could put it in Docker, and it’ll probably use 64bit everything, if you can install 64bit Docker. But that’s too much work. Also, I use Podman, not Docker.

Maybe buy a new Mac mini, and then use the old one for all my server stuff. The CPU will be better, and it’s cooler. But a new Mac mini is over a grand, if you want the M2 Pro. The Pi is smaller though. If I get a new mini, I’ll just store the old one somewhere, so if the Pi dies, I can then use it. I’ll keep it connected to my Apple ID of course, so if it gets stolen, I can lock it. They’ll get $0 for it. Or perhaps they’ll use the soldered parts from it. Hmm, so everything soldered down, is actually good, anti thief technology. Now they can’t sell it for a penny. Or they can sell the chassis for some money. Maybe $10.

Sigma 30mm F/1.4 DC DN - CONTEMPORARY (MICRO 4/3)

New lens came yesterday, but nobody wanted to bring it over yesterday. Bought it for dog photos, need auto focus for Utah. I think it’s designed for a larger format, APS-C or whatever, and I think my 35mm manual lens is as well. So only 5mm less then that lens, close enough.

I’m guessing the 25mm micro four thirds lens I have, isn’t even close to the same zoomed in. The view is actually 25mm on that lens, on this lens apparently 60mm.

Well, I can retire the manual 35mm lens now. Is the Sigma sharper? No idea, seeing as a cheap under $100 lens satisfies me, it’s hard to believe an almost $300 lens won’t. I bought the expensive Hoya filter from the same place, they don’t have the cheaper filters. Didn’t buy from Amazon because of slow shipping, and they can’t even ship filter and lens together. I ordered from Kenmore Camera. Their website, it sold out after I bought it. Only took a day to get here after UPS got it I think, or UPS didn’t update tracking very quickly. Ordered it Friday, got here Tuesday. Amazon it wouldn’t be here yet, the filter might though.

Oh the box for the lens wasn’t sealed with a sticker or anything, didn’t notice anything on it, well I think I got something on it, probably a speck of dust. Not on the glass, on the cover. I should register the lens and see if it lets me. If not, I got ripped off. Can you even register Sigma lenses? Oh I think the same thing happened with my 17mm lens that I bought from there, or whatever other lens I bought from there. I don’t recall if I asked them about it. Nope, it was the 4mm lens.

I don’t think my mom removed any sticker or seal from the box, she opened the packaging box, to make sure it was the right lens. As it was odd it sold out right after I bought it. She read what it said, and it sounded right, and it is.

Any filter over $10 is expensive.

Probably not good for taking photos of your own boobs, unless you aren’t too lazy to use tripod.

The only images I can share is of my middle finger and the lovely crapper. AI can remove watermarks, and even recreate images. Not to mention, you can upscale images as well. So enjoy the only two photos I can share. I think that’s the brightest crapper toilet. I’m too lazy to share the other crapper photos as well.

Those are good photos to send to a stalker, if you have one.

And yes, I know my other site is working again. I’m too lazy to change the permissions, apparently it changed permissions after adding another domain to my account. I never deleted it, or moved to a folder and changed permissions on that instead.

Since I’m too lazy to use a tripod, my new domain, may never get a picture of my boobs on it.

Oh and it has the same problem with taking photos of my RC car, that is the farthest wheels aren’t exactly in focus. Might have used the Sigma at f4. It was f4 or more, more as in higher then the number 4.

And if you use that under f2, the flash has to be pointed up. Actually it might be more then f2, didn’t really test to see the lowest aperture you can use with the flash pointing directly, without ruining the photo. Probably matters on the distance. The printer isn’t that sharp in some spots, should have backed up more. Either that or I literally have no idea where to focus. Which is probably true.