Looks like they are sending me a new NVMe enclosure. It disconnected again. That’s with a different USB cable. It may have come with a A cable, should have tried that as well. They didn’t say to, so I guess it doesn’t matter.

if the replacement has same issue, the enclosure is probably fine, and it’s either the computer, or even the SSD in it. Using it with the Mac to test won’t be easy, it’s formatted ext4. Don’t want to buy a driver. If there’s a free one, probably not very good. Might be fine for read only, but that won’t help me.

They will test and make sure it has the latest firmware on it before shipping it.

Oh and me using Linux, is fine with them, they even gave me Linux instructions for the stuff they wanted me to do.

The hosting is cheap and slow. Good enough for me though, unless I want an adult and/or paranormal forum. In that case, I’ll use ExtraVM. But I’d keep BuyShared for everything else. They may have better email then ExtraVM. Says they use MailChannels. The reason I’ll be canceling MXroute. I already moved all my email to BuyShared, well not actual emails, just the addresses. Not really any emails to move. Then again, any email would be fine for my domains, they don’t get email.

The Orange Pi 5 came, too bad the case won’t be here for a while. Don’t think the US even has it yet. That could probably host a forum, a 10 Mbps upload wouldn’t work out very well though, unless it’s a dead forum. You’d probably want it to have it’s own internet as well. You might be able to use Cloudflare to hide your IP, unless it gets hacked.

Paying for shared hosting is a better deal, they secure the server, so you don’t have to. Just keep your forum or whatever updated, and hope for the best.

All the other stuff came already, B&H has faster shipping then Amazon. The Orange Pi might come tomorrow. The case, probably not till next month. Wonder if Amazon has any cases yet, perhaps one of those would come sooner. Or maybe a US seller on eBay has one.

I won’t use it without the case, probably won’t even test it, till the case comes. It’ll be sitting in a box till the case comes.

No idea why there’s no cases on Amazon. Guess most people don’t want a case, or can make one themselves.

The Samsung 32GB PRO Endurance UHS-I microSDHC cards from B&H are legit as well, according to f3read. If you read reviews on Amazon, I think mostly SanDick, people get fake cards. Not sure how likely directly from Amazon. I think I own three of those Samhung cards now. They seem to be way better, then the cheap SanDick that came with my Pi kit. I know, because apt became faster. It wasn’t slow because of the shitty CPU, the shitty micro SD card.

The enclosure is a OWC Mercury Elite Pro 3.5" SATA III to USB 3.2 Gen 1 Enclosure, the box for it wasn’t sealed. Hard to know if it’s new or used, appears to work fine, no disconnects, but didn’t do much. Decided not to copy the entire backup Raspberry Pi NAS drive contents to it. The drive was on top of my computer. Thanks to the AC adapter, putting on desk might be a pain. Not to mention, I’d have to move something probably. Too much work.

And it’s more like a almost 7.3 TB drive, well TiB. There’s bad reviews on drives, because of that. They use a different measurement then most operating systems. So advertise it as 7.3 TB, at least then people will be happy, and will have to buy a 10.91394 TB drive instead. Which is actually TiB.

The drive is a Seagate 8TB ST8000DM004. I think it’s SMR or whatever. My 6 TB drive works fine, and is the same type. I didn’t want a 7200 RPM drive, that will run hotter, the drive got up to 40C. I’ll monitor that again, once I get the Orange Pi running, and it’s rsyncing the entire backup drive from the Raspberry Pi.

can’t share the benchmark, it’s on the drive, and I ain’t moving it back over here. I think it got the advertised speed. Almost 200 MB/s if I recall right.

And did reviews on that enclosure say it has a loud fan? It doesn’t have a fan. No room for one either. I know the dual bay enclosure I wanted has a loud fan. B&H’s reviews don’t load anymore. Probably some other enclosure.

Oh and you can’t view tracking on FedEx’s site in Firefox, not on my Mac with Firefox either. It’ll say “Unfortunately we are unable to retrieve your tracking results at this time. Please try again later. " almost every time. I got it to load once in Firefox. Works in Safari on my iPhone and my Mac. I think the only other browser I have on my desktop is Chrome. I’d recommend trying a user agent switcher. Nope, you only need to disable protection in the DuckDuckGo extension, forgot about that condom. Earlier disabled uBlock and Firefox’s built in condom. Seems to work with uBlock and Firefox’s condom enabled. DuckDuckGo must be blocking some nasty STDs. That breaks FedEx, well I’m fed up with their site.

At least they did indeed send a new drive, and most likely micro SD card. Would be hard to repackage the micro SD card how it comes.

TDS didn’t need to enter the units. Good thing I emailed her, or I’d be wondering a long time, if I can shower or do my laundry. I do laundry after my shower.

I’ll know eventually if any of those enclosure’s boxes are sealed, as the Orange Pi will need one more drive. And if it’s fine, I also want one for the backup drive for the other Pi. It’s in a dock right now. Then I’ll have a free dock. And the drive will be enclosed properly. Oh and I have an extra USB fan, I could use if the external drive is too hot. There’s one already for the Raspberry Pi, because the case’s fan sucks. You might be able to replace the fan on the nice orange case I bought. Well, easier. Might be bigger. The other fan was for the PS4 I gave away. Don’t think the drive in it gets very hot, so it doesn’t need it.

Pretty sure my Kindle used to stay charged for months, without using it. I think the last book I put on it, was on the 16th. Bought two more books, one book I didn’t get any money off of it. So the coupon was basically useless. I don’t care about 75 cents or whatever off of a $2 or $3 book. The other book was like $14, I would have preferred money off of that.

And it wouldn’t turn on, if you hold the power button long enough, it’ll eventually turn on. Took many tries, so I just held the button longer. And then it didn’t show up on the Mac, so I unplugged USB, plugged it back in, then unlocked Kindle and it showed up on Mac.

You might just need to close your case, so it locks, then unlock it, and maybe it’ll go into USB data mode. Or not, who knows.

Now I have to check the battery level of that too, for the unused stuff, like my iPad mini, don’t care about the old iPad. The old iPad is probably dead. If there’s an internet or power outage, I may have to charge the Kindle, if I don’t keep it charged. Luckily, I have a big battery that can charge stuff, and I think my little one can charge the Kindle as well, if the power goes out.

The Kindle is reserved for internet and/or power outages. Or if I get really bored. I might have over 40 books on it. 40 books or so in the eBook manager.

Amazon is good for buying stuff with batteries, as if it’s defective, you don’t have to return it. Not so good for photography. Depending on your view of DPReview closing. Now that I think about it, I don’t really care, didn’t read their site much anyways. And the forum, everybody likes abbreviating everything, so I don’t know what they are talking about anyways.

I do know FF is fully functional, like a fully functional trans woman. My camera is FF(fully functional). Luckily it isn’t as big as full frame, but at least it’s FF.

If you don’t like slow shipping, Amazon isn’t a great choice. Some stuff shows up fast enough, some stuff takes longer though. At least it doesn’t take two months or more from China. Somebody said they are going to buy their stuff from that site that ships from China, or most of the stuff does. Possibly everything does. Enjoy waiting two months. I’d enjoy taking a dump for two months. I can eat my dinner while shitting.

Hmm, this might have happened last time I went to put books on it too, don’t recall.

And I thought green meant it was done charging? Already down to 96%. Can you replace a battery in a Kindle? I’ve barely used it, and the battery might be junk already, nice. Eh, cheaper to use the iPad mini, no DRM on my books, so I just need an eBook reader. Or use the Kindle app, and the Kobo.com app. Reading on the Kindle is nicer though, thanks to the display.

Perhaps there’s another E Ink eReader made by somebody else. Airplane mode is on, so not WiFi.

One thing says to reset the Kindle, how do you do so, without losing the location in your books? Not all are Kindle books. Didn’t drain anymore, perhaps it only charges to 96% now. Hmm, it might only charge to 96% on purpose. I got a bad memory, and probably never look at it, right after charging.

Somebody said to keep it between 20% - 80%. And to not leave it on unused for months at a time. Good luck turning it off, maybe if you hold the button long enough, it’ll turn off. I’ll just buy a new Kindle once the battery is useless.

I’d buy a Kobo eReader, but I think they cost more, if you want 32 GB. I use it to hoard books. Hoard on as many devices as possible. Now I should turn the iPad mini off, I might want to use it someday, and the battery might be useless by then. In like 10 years. Except, in the new one state government, iPads might be illegal. Don’t forget a possible solars something, wiping out electronics.

Looks like you can’t turn it off, so that’s horrible advice, it just reboots if you hold the button down long enough. Well that advice was for a different Kindle. The Paperwhite, you can’t turn off. Maybe if you jailbreak it, or put custom firmware on it, you can. Not sure either is possible though.

To replace the battery, you may have to remove the screen.

See here. That might not require reinstalling the OS to keep it to the latest release, might be rolling release.

Not sure they have an Orange Pi kernel, so probably won’t use it on the Orange Pi 5.

Does hardware transcoding work on the Pi with Void Linux? Channels DVR is probably better with that.

If I get unlazy, I can switch to that on the Pi, on a day the Channels DVR isn’t recording anything.

Another interesting Linux distro is NixOS, sounds like you can downgrade any package, without doing anything to anything else. Like downgrading everything it depends on. So it probably uses more space.

You might be able to download the Orange Pi kernel, and replace the ARM Void Linux kernel with it.

I had to enable 5G though. I wonder if there was some silent profile update before the latest iOS though, so I should have looked in the settings before updating.

Here’s a screenshot.

I won’t be running a speed test, that’ll use data. I prefer to use as little data as possible.

That’s in iOS 16.4.

Did Apple stop trying to extort money from Tello, or did Tello pay? I personally wouldn’t pay Apple a penny, I’d put a message on my site, about their extortion though. Apple likes artificially limiting stuff. They are greedy assholes, just like Google, Microsoft, and all the others.

The erratic movement may be fixed. There’s a review that calls something ghost movement, might be the same thing. Think they claimed to be on the latest firmware. No idea when the review was written. The date on their site for the firmware is January 13, 2023. I may never update the firmware again though. Unless I get it working in a VM.

If the review was written on or after that date, perhaps they think it’s the latest, because you can’t update with the iOS app, no idea about Android. The way you update it, I doubt Apple would allow such an app on the iPhone. Even though it’s probably capable of doing so. If you can get a lightning to USB A adapter. My iPad has USB C, I already have a C adapter like that.

I don’t blame them though, I blame Razer, for releasing a PS5 controller that requires Windows to update.

If side loading is allowed in a future iOS, I’ll be getting some nice apps. Ones Apple won’t allow in the app store. Somebody could make a firewall app, that doesn’t require using VPN. An outgoing firewall, that pops up every time you open a new app. Tethering that can bypass carrier bullshit.

Ahh, then the anti Apple people will have to find something else to complain about. Like how Android phones have slower CPUs.

I think it’s my wrist the controller makes hurt. Nice feature. Maybe it’s for bigger hands. Or it’s a weird shape. And aiming is probably only easier, if you use the modifier trigger. But good luck, if you don’t have big hands. Then more then your wrist might hurt. Can you change the modifier to something else?

Maybe the USB hand off thing is supposed to be disabled for VirtualBox and VMware. Probably enabled for KVM. So KVM might work. No way to test it now, firmware is updated.

If you make a raw disk image of your Windows VirtualBox VM, and write it with Etcher or dd, you probably won’t get UEFI.

Unless you installed it in UEFI mode in VirtualBox, I didn’t.

Luckily, my motherboard can boot non UEFI, I had to change some bios settings, and it disabled resizable bar or whatever for my AMD GPU. I changed it back to UEFI only after updating my controller.

I’d need to make an image of the USB drive and try writing it with WoeUSB. If I just use the image I used before, it will have to setup drivers again. Using the entire drive with VirtualBox might be a good idea, then I can let it update, while doing other stuff. Otherwise, you’ll be bored in the bare metal USB drive Windows. I’m not switching to Windows, or using it for anything other then firmware updates.

I won’t buy a Razer controller again, I think their primary target is Windows users. It may support the PS5, but it doesn’t support updating the firmware without Windows.

Maybe I’ll sell the controller, easier then sending it back, it has a battery, so may not be able to. And they might question me if I ask for my money back on another controller. Except, I’d have to sell it in person.

It’s a disk image of Windows installed in a VM.

The funny thing is, the PS5 controller has to be in PS5 mode to update it with Windows. Yet, clearly their target audience is Windows users. I tried in PC mode, didn’t work.

Somebody should reverse engineer it, and make a non Windows firmware updater. If it bricks it, oh well, it was worth the risk, to not have to use Windows.

And I should have looked in the bios for USB settings, maybe that needs to be changed. For VirtualBox or VMware to work.

The app description says nothing about updating it. So I bought a $250 controller, that can never be updated, that was a lot of money to waste.

No, you can’t use a Windows VM, it’s missing a DLL, all the instructions says, is to download their shitty Windows updater. And run it, then it’ll tell you it can’t find some DLL, and when you search the internet for it, you find nothing, so good luck.

Was going to test updating the wireless dongle, if that worked, then update the controller. If you click continue, it still won’t work.

Why would I be familiar with shitty Razer crap? I don’t use Windows. I had a Razer keyboard, but it started having issues, so replaced with a cheap HP mechanical keyboard.

I don’t have copy from VM to host enabled, host to VM is enabled though.

Oh and if your USB Type-C SSD is slow, you need to unmount, and unplug the cable and plug back in. No idea what’s at fault, motherboard, Linux, or the enclosure. I noticed something wasn’t right when it took Windows a long time to boot.

Well, maybe the DLL exists, but it has a problem, maybe it doesn’t like VMs. Well, I don’t like Windows.

If you copy to the desktop, then Microsoft’s shitty One Drive bullshit uploads it. I quit that. Perhaps I should delete the VM, that’s easier then trying to disable One Drive.

Oh and to connect it to your phone, you have to turn it on first. The instructions don’t mention that. Hold the PS button down until it turns on, don’t bother counting to five, you’ll most likely count way past five.

And their forum is useless, I guess it works nice and dandy for everybody else, they all must enjoy and love Windows. Or the people without Windows didn’t bother trying to update it.

I should ask Amazon if I can return it, cause it’s crap. Should have known better, that Razer keyboard didn’t last long enough.

Changed clipboard to guest to host. I did take a screenshot, but now I don’t need to upload it anywhere.

See the end of this message for details on invoking 
just-in-time (JIT) debugging instead of this dialog box.

************** Exception Text **************
System.DllNotFoundException: Unable to load DLL 'RazerMCUUpdaterInterface.dll': The specified module could not be found. (Exception from HRESULT: 0x8007007E)
   at CathyT1PCFU.MCUUpdaterInterfance.initcallback(IntPtr DllCallBack)
   at CathyT1PCFU.Update_FlashRegion..ctor(DeviceInterface device)
   at CathyT1PCFU.FormFWUStep1.FormFWUStep1_Load(Object sender, EventArgs e)
   at System.Windows.Forms.Form.OnLoad(EventArgs e)
   at System.Windows.Forms.Form.OnCreateControl()
   at System.Windows.Forms.Control.CreateControl(Boolean fIgnoreVisible)
   at System.Windows.Forms.Control.CreateControl()
   at System.Windows.Forms.Control.WmShowWindow(Message& m)
   at System.Windows.Forms.Control.WndProc(Message& m)
   at System.Windows.Forms.ScrollableControl.WndProc(Message& m)
   at System.Windows.Forms.ContainerControl.WndProc(Message& m)
   at System.Windows.Forms.Form.WmShowWindow(Message& m)
   at System.Windows.Forms.Form.WndProc(Message& m)
   at CathyT1PCFU.FormFWUStep1.WndProc(Message& m)
   at System.Windows.Forms.Control.ControlNativeWindow.OnMessage(Message& m)
   at System.Windows.Forms.Control.ControlNativeWindow.WndProc(Message& m)
   at System.Windows.Forms.NativeWindow.Callback(IntPtr hWnd, Int32 msg, IntPtr wparam, IntPtr lparam)


************** Loaded Assemblies **************
mscorlib
    Assembly Version: 4.0.0.0
    Win32 Version: 4.8.4614.0 built by: NET48REL1LAST_B
    CodeBase: file:///C:/Windows/Microsoft.NET/Framework/v4.0.30319/mscorlib.dll
----------------------------------------
WolverineV2ProCFU
    Assembly Version: 1.0.0.30445
    Win32 Version: 1.0.0.30445
    CodeBase: file:///C:/Users/chokesonclits/AppData/Local/Temp/RarSFX0/WolverineV2ProCFU.exe
----------------------------------------
System.Windows.Forms
    Assembly Version: 4.0.0.0
    Win32 Version: 4.8.4550.0 built by: NET48REL1LAST_C
    CodeBase: file:///C:/Windows/Microsoft.Net/assembly/GAC_MSIL/System.Windows.Forms/v4.0_4.0.0.0__b77a5c561934e089/System.Windows.Forms.dll
----------------------------------------
System.Drawing
    Assembly Version: 4.0.0.0
    Win32 Version: 4.8.4390.0 built by: NET48REL1LAST_C
    CodeBase: file:///C:/Windows/Microsoft.Net/assembly/GAC_MSIL/System.Drawing/v4.0_4.0.0.0__b03f5f7f11d50a3a/System.Drawing.dll
----------------------------------------
System
    Assembly Version: 4.0.0.0
    Win32 Version: 4.8.4605.0 built by: NET48REL1LAST_C
    CodeBase: file:///C:/Windows/Microsoft.Net/assembly/GAC_MSIL/System/v4.0_4.0.0.0__b77a5c561934e089/System.dll
----------------------------------------
System.Core
    Assembly Version: 4.0.0.0
    Win32 Version: 4.8.4605.0 built by: NET48REL1LAST_C
    CodeBase: file:///C:/Windows/Microsoft.Net/assembly/GAC_MSIL/System.Core/v4.0_4.0.0.0__b77a5c561934e089/System.Core.dll
----------------------------------------
System.Configuration
    Assembly Version: 4.0.0.0
    Win32 Version: 4.8.4190.0 built by: NET48REL1LAST_B
    CodeBase: file:///C:/Windows/Microsoft.Net/assembly/GAC_MSIL/System.Configuration/v4.0_4.0.0.0__b03f5f7f11d50a3a/System.Configuration.dll
----------------------------------------
System.Xml
    Assembly Version: 4.0.0.0
    Win32 Version: 4.8.4084.0 built by: NET48REL1
    CodeBase: file:///C:/Windows/Microsoft.Net/assembly/GAC_MSIL/System.Xml/v4.0_4.0.0.0__b77a5c561934e089/System.Xml.dll
----------------------------------------
Accessibility
    Assembly Version: 4.0.0.0
    Win32 Version: 4.8.4084.0 built by: NET48REL1
    CodeBase: file:///C:/Windows/Microsoft.Net/assembly/GAC_MSIL/Accessibility/v4.0_4.0.0.0__b03f5f7f11d50a3a/Accessibility.dll
----------------------------------------
CustomProgressBar
    Assembly Version: 1.0.1.0
    Win32 Version: 1.0.1.0
    CodeBase: file:///C:/Users/chokesonclits/AppData/Local/Temp/RarSFX0/CustomProgressBar.DLL
----------------------------------------

************** JIT Debugging **************
To enable just-in-time (JIT) debugging, the .config file for this
application or computer (machine.config) must have the
jitDebugging value set in the system.windows.forms section.
The application must also be compiled with debugging
enabled.

For example:


    


When JIT debugging is enabled, any unhandled exception
will be sent to the JIT debugger registered on the computer
rather than be handled by this dialog box.

Enjoy, there’s no solution, so don’t waste your time looking if you find this. I updated the VirtualBox guest crap, didn’t fix it either. Maybe it needs a reboot, Windows loves that.

I should lookup “Razer software in virtual machine”. Searched for something similar, VirtualBox instead of virtual machine. Found nothing, so I give up. I ain’t wasting my time with useless search engines. That don’t understand English.

Maybe using KVM instead of Default works, what is Default? Well, if that doesn’t fix it, then nothing will. It’s closed source after all, you can’t make any of it work yourself. You can delete it though. Glad I don’t run this shit bare metal. Nope, didn’t do anything. Extended features in VirtualBox didn’t do it either. Maybe it’s looking for USB 2.0 only. But shouldn’t 3.0 have some kind of 2.0?

What’s the equivalent of rm -fr / for Windows? Yes, I could rm -fr the disk image, but it’s more fun to do it in Windows, while it’s running. But I’m lazy, so I’ll shut it down and do nothing. Maybe it only works with Windows 11, doesn’t say that though. I’m too lazy to email their support. Hmm .net, it should work with Linux then. Using Mono, well probably not. But maybe the GUI. Not the driver.

“File does not contain a valid CIL image.” bummer.

See the end of this message for details on invoking 
just-in-time (JIT) debugging instead of this dialog box.

************** Exception Text **************
System.MissingMethodException: Method not found: 'IntPtr System.Runtime.InteropServices.Marshal.GetFunctionPointerForDelegate(!!0)'.
   at CathyT1PCFU.Update_FlashRegion..ctor(DeviceInterface device)
   at CathyT1PCFU.FormFWUStep1.FormFWUStep1_Load(Object sender, EventArgs e)
   at System.Windows.Forms.Form.OnLoad(EventArgs e)
   at System.Windows.Forms.Form.OnCreateControl()
   at System.Windows.Forms.Control.CreateControl(Boolean fIgnoreVisible)
   at System.Windows.Forms.Control.CreateControl()
   at System.Windows.Forms.Control.WmShowWindow(Message& m)
   at System.Windows.Forms.Control.WndProc(Message& m)
   at System.Windows.Forms.ScrollableControl.WndProc(Message& m)
   at System.Windows.Forms.ContainerControl.WndProc(Message& m)
   at System.Windows.Forms.Form.WmShowWindow(Message& m)
   at System.Windows.Forms.Form.WndProc(Message& m)
   at CathyT1PCFU.FormFWUStep1.WndProc(Message& m)
   at System.Windows.Forms.Control.ControlNativeWindow.OnMessage(Message& m)
   at System.Windows.Forms.Control.ControlNativeWindow.WndProc(Message& m)
   at System.Windows.Forms.NativeWindow.Callback(IntPtr hWnd, Int32 msg, IntPtr wparam, IntPtr lparam)


************** Loaded Assemblies **************
mscorlib
    Assembly Version: 4.0.0.0
    Win32 Version: 4.0.30319.1 (RTMRel.030319-0100)
    CodeBase: file:///C:/windows/Microsoft.NET/Framework/v4.0.30319/mscorlib.dll
----------------------------------------
WolverineV2ProCFU
    Assembly Version: 1.0.0.30445
    Win32 Version: 1.0.0.30445
    CodeBase: file:///C:/users/chokesonclits/Temp/RarSFX0/WolverineV2ProCFU.exe
----------------------------------------
System.Windows.Forms
    Assembly Version: 4.0.0.0
    Win32 Version: 4.0.30319.1 built by: RTMRel
    CodeBase: file:///C:/windows/Microsoft.Net/assembly/GAC_MSIL/System.Windows.Forms/v4.0_4.0.0.0__b77a5c561934e089/System.Windows.Forms.dll
----------------------------------------
System.Drawing
    Assembly Version: 4.0.0.0
    Win32 Version: 4.0.30319.1 built by: RTMRel
    CodeBase: file:///C:/windows/Microsoft.Net/assembly/GAC_MSIL/System.Drawing/v4.0_4.0.0.0__b03f5f7f11d50a3a/System.Drawing.dll
----------------------------------------
System
    Assembly Version: 4.0.0.0
    Win32 Version: 4.0.30319.1 built by: RTMRel
    CodeBase: file:///C:/windows/Microsoft.Net/assembly/GAC_MSIL/System/v4.0_4.0.0.0__b77a5c561934e089/System.dll
----------------------------------------
System.Core
    Assembly Version: 4.0.0.0
    Win32 Version: 4.0.30319.1 built by: RTMRel
    CodeBase: file:///C:/windows/Microsoft.Net/assembly/GAC_MSIL/System.Core/v4.0_4.0.0.0__b77a5c561934e089/System.Core.dll
----------------------------------------
Accessibility
    Assembly Version: 4.0.0.0
    Win32 Version: 4.0.30319.1 built by: RTMRel
    CodeBase: file:///C:/windows/Microsoft.Net/assembly/GAC_MSIL/Accessibility/v4.0_4.0.0.0__b03f5f7f11d50a3a/Accessibility.dll
----------------------------------------
CustomProgressBar
    Assembly Version: 1.0.1.0
    Win32 Version: 1.0.1.0
    CodeBase: file:///C:/users/chokesonclits/Temp/RarSFX0/CustomProgressBar.DLL
----------------------------------------

************** JIT Debugging **************
To enable just-in-time (JIT) debugging, the .config file for this
application or computer (machine.config) must have the
jitDebugging value set in the system.windows.forms section.
The application must also be compiled with debugging
enabled.

For example:


    


When JIT debugging is enabled, any unhandled exception
will be sent to the JIT debugger registered on the computer
rather than be handled by this dialog box.

If you run it using Wine, you’ll get the above. No I didn’t install crap into Wine for it.

Maybe you need to install .NET, the instructions don’t say to do so, so I doubt it.

Maybe installing .NET 6 will fix it, that’s the oldest version they have on their site. Nope, no affect. How do you install older .NET?

Maybe installing some Windows updates will fix it. Or disabling Windows Defender. Who needs anti virus in a VM? Just disable it’s internet, problem solved. It might need to download the firmware though. Unless it’s under 2 MB.

Glad my PC doesn’t meet the requirements to run Windows 11, surprising though. You’d think the 5600X could run the latest trash. Must be configured in a way, it doesn’t like. Perhaps two threads or cores isn’t enough. You probably have to pay for that. Probably wouldn’t fix it either.

.NET 4.0 might fix it, I extracted the exe file, with 7zip, and looked at the config file. Says part of the OS. Perhaps it’s missing something, or it’s broken.

Does it work for anybody? Maybe not.

Too lazy to reinstall Windows, doubt that would fix it anyways. No way to run it without Windows, Mono can’t find a file, probably because it puts a \ in it, if you run with Wine, it craps out. No point in trying every Wine version.

Update
I got it to work, I was installing a bunch of crap from Build Tools for Visual Studio 2022, but cancelled it. Guess whatever it installed and kept was all I needed. If you don’t want to mess with that, use this to hopefully find what you are missing. Now to check what’s installed. LOL, I think you need this. No idea why Windows doesn’t install that by default. I think I have Visual Studio 2015, 2017, 2019, and 2022. So the one near the top of the page. I’d recommend x86 and x64. I’m too stupid to figure out what it’s compiled for.

And no it wasn’t running the latest version, at least the wireless dongle. Almost done updating it, so their software works. The iOS app is mostly useless, I don’t need to configure the controller, just update the firmware, and hope it gets fixed. The erractic movement.

Nice instructions and support site Razer. They assume you have that, blame Microsoft. You actually think I use Windows? Nope. Now to update the controller and hope it doesn’t brick.

It’s risky, you have to keep attaching the USB device, because it does stuff. Says bootloader, then the controller name. And it might not be working, as I might have been too slow.

USB filters aren’t working, keeps saying it can’t connect it. You need the bootloader USB to connect. Or it won’t do anything.

Does the wireless dongle still work with the old firmware? If not, can they send me a new wireless dongle with outdated firmware? Changed the USB to 2.0 mode, maybe that will help. If not, I need a different USB port. And if not, good luck. USB 2.0 doesn’t work at all. Says it malfunctioned.

Even with a different USB port, it says “Failed to create a proxy device for the USB device. (Error: VERR_READ_ERROR).”.

Damn it, got to get flashlight, and find a USB 2.0 port. No idea if that’s a 2.0 port, didn’t work though. Trying USB 2.0 mode again.

Nice I crashed the Windows VM, trying USB 1.1 mode now, since 2.0 won’t work. Same “Failed to create a proxy device for the USB device. (Error: VERR_READ_ERROR).” error.

Updating some stuff in openSUSE, maybe it’ll fix USB. I should go to bed, and try again tomorrow.

Update
Maybe VMware Workstation Player works. If I can get it to boot. Don’t want to reinstall Windows. But it’s looking like I might need to. Or find a program that can get it to boot. I exported it in VirtualBox, using the default file format. Hmm, it was set to Other for the OS, perhaps that’s the problem. Looks like it was, got a firewall popup.

Can’t install VMware Tools, perhaps you don’t need to. After I try updating the controller, I’ll re enable 3D acceleration. That’s the only reason to use VMware or VirtualBox, if you don’t want to passthrough a GPU.

But you don’t really need 3D for what I’m doing probably. Nice to have though. Use KVM if you don’t care about 3D, or like having two GPUs. And it doesn’t work with VMware either. Using KVM is a pain though. And if it doesn’t work with that, I guess you are out of luck. Maybe USB 2.0 works in VMware? Says malfunctioned in VirtualBox, in Windows.

Hmm, it was set to USB 1.1. Changed to 3.1. Then I’ll test 2.0 or whatever. Don’t run sudo rmmod usbhid, like VMware seems to suggest. Keyboard and mouse stopped working, luckily, I could just switch the input on the USB switcher and back, and it loaded the module. I’ll reboot soon, just in case something is messed up. Also makes the VM laggy, until you shut it down and boot back up.

usb.quirks.device0 = "0x1532:0x100b skip-reset, skip-refresh, skip-setconfig"
usb.quirks.device1 = "0x1532:0x110e skip-reset, skip-refresh, skip-setconfig"

Doesn’t fix it either, rebooting, perhaps some module is broken.

You might need USB passthrough. If I can’t get VMware working, I’ll just look for a live Windows USB image. And it’ll be like bare metal. Can’t passthrough a USB controller. Tried plugging it into my USB hub, instead of the front port on case, still doesn’t work, didn’t leave the quirks in the vmx file though. I’m not wasting my time trying a USB port on the back of computer, didn’t work with VirtualBox.

For Windows on USB, you can use this. It isn’t signed, so don’t recommend paying for it. No Pro Windows for me, that means it won’t have a license. Putting it on the external SSD, that I had PS5 videos on, not the NVMe external SSD, that has the VM on it. I was going to clone the VM to it, but you have to buy it, no thanks.

And I think VirtualBox is faster then VMware. A clean install could fix it.

That reminds me, that’s how I hacked my Blu-ray burner/drive, so I can rip using it. But it might have been WinPE, not Windows To Go. The most bare metal Windows will get. Hopefully I don’t need a USB driver, cause I don’t want to install anything. Hmm, it might not work without internet. Bummer.

Now to look for a free windows to USB, that can clone the VM. Can’t find the Windows To Go Creator wizard. Perhaps that unsigned program deleted it.

Will this work for Windows? Probably not. Looks like it can, nice. I’ll uninstall the unsigned crap first, I don’t want it on my USB drive.

And you don’t need Windows to do that, they have Linux instructions. And that thing is 98% done, but canceling it, as it’s taking too long.

sudo VBoxManage internalcommands converttoraw Windows\ 10.vdi Windows\ 10.img

Only one command to make image, I’ll use Etcher to write it though. Let’s see how it works for 50 GB images. You can use dd too.

Etcher says it won’t work. I’ll test anyways, it’s not an ISO. It’s an entire disk. So why not? It might not boot, because of different hardware, but who cares.

The crap you have to do to update a Razer controller, I don’t recommend buying one. Not sure it’ll work with an updated USB wireless dongle, that updated fine in VM. If USB works and it won’t update this way, then the controller might be busted, nice.

Update
The firmware is finally updated. If you have no way to run Windows without a VM, you might be out of luck. Surprised cloning the drive to a USB drive worked. At least in the past, if you put a drive from one computer into another, Windows wouldn’t boot. The network appeared to be working as well. And you might want to wait for it to install the video driver, in case that crashes Windows. Or disable that feature before cloning.

No idea if it’s activated, or if the VM still is. I guess that slow SATA SSD is good for something. Expensive enclosure for a slow ass SSD. I think the SSD was $30. The enclosure probably cost more.

I can use it for updating other firmware too. Windows doesn’t deserve a fast SSD. I’m guessing it has no cache.

I do wonder if a VM on an Intel Mac would work. Probably not on a Mac like mine, might not work with ARM Windows. And VirtualBox isn’t for Apple Silicon yet, there’s a preview. Unless they are done porting it, I doubt it.

It could also be an openSUSE problem.

I should uninstall VMware, it’s slower.

If you disable sleep schedule or whatever in the Health app, it will use your heart rate while sleeping as your resting heart rate. It claims it doesn’t do that, but I checked my resting heart rate for the day, and noticed during time’s I’m sleeping, it was logging that as my resting heart rate.

So if you want to lower your heart rate, without exercising, and gaining weight, turn sleep schedule off. It won’t actually change your heart rate, but Apple’s pathetic software will think so.

I turned it back on, cause I’m getting sick of my resting heart rate average decreasing. I think I turned it off, because it’s not accurate, at least if you set the wrong bedtime and wake up time. That can change everyday, no way for me to know till it happens. So I’ll just ignore the sleep data. And in a week, my resting heart rate should go up.

That controller might hurt my hands, but I can’t return it, as it has a battery. Apple might think I’m stealing from them, if I ask for a refund for that controller too. Perhaps changing the joystick would help. Or are the extra ones the same? It might be for bigger hands, that might be why it hurts. Or perhaps it has a funny shape, like her clit, that I choked on.

The Razer Wolverine V2 Pro Wireless Gaming Controller for PlayStation 5 / PS5 I ordered came today. Looks like it won’t go in pairing mode, until it’s charged, or not plugged into the USB cable. So can’t see if there’s a firmware update or anything.

Said to only use the cable it came with, which is lame. They have a special USB Type-C cable apparently. So if you forget, I guess you brick your controller.

How long does it take to charge?

A $250 controller, doesn’t even have vibration, apparently Sony doesn’t allow third party controllers to vibrate. And the controller the PS5 comes with is junk. Why would I want to give Sony more money for their other controller?

No idea if there’s any open USB ports on the PS5, the dongle is plugged in the front. I think there’s a Type-C port on the front, but the cable is A on one end. I just plugged it into my Mac mini’s USB hub. The PS5 is off, doesn’t need to sit idle, while I wait for controller to charge. Well, the Xbox is sort of on, so it might charge something, if I plug the controller into it. It outputs enough USB power in whatever mode it’s in, for the IR repeater thing. The portable drive’s light is on sometimes, not sure if it’s on all the time.

Oh and it didn’t come with a carrying case like the cheaper dead controller I had. Costs more, and you get less, nice. At least you don’t need Windows to update it. If you don’t update the other controller, no wireless mode for you.

Maybe I should try running the software that disables sleep mode on my Plugable HD dock, that’s plugged into the Raspberry Pi. Maybe I’ll kill that too. I already have a solution, make cron run every five minutes, and touch a file. I don’t really want to order another enclosure, so I’ll pass. Also, they might be mad, if they have to ship one item all by itself, when they shipped a bunch of other stuff. Making Amazon mad is fine though, they hate photography.

Can’t figure out why B&H sells more then photo and video stuff. Their site name should be changed. I think I bought a bunch of computer stuff from them too, when I got a new case, and upgraded to the AMD 5600X.

I’ll use Amazon if I can’t buy something anywhere else. The Orange Pi 5 might only be on Amazon. Well, don’t order the Orange Pi shipped from Orange Pi, it takes longer to get. As I was considering downgrading to the 8 GB one, but the shipping could take a long time. And earlier today, that one got prime delivery, so I should have waited until today.

Once World War 3 is happening, enjoy buying nothing. There won’t be anything to buy, as China might ban exports to the US. That’s a bummer for Apple. And for anyone’s bum and/or pussy that needs a vibrator in it.

And I forgot, to use $ in bash, you have to escape it or something. Now to reupload it.

Update
The app might not actually let you update firmware, so if there’s issues, I’m out of luck. You need Windows to update the firmware. Unless the firmware is newer then what’s on that link.

Well, that wasn’t worth $250, yes you can configure the controller with the app, but requiring Windows to update a PS5 controller is bullshit.

They say no vibration because it’s for competitive playing. They can’t add vibration that you can turn on and off to a $250 controller? Apparently not.

Maybe I should try updating it with VM for fun. Then I can get my money back, if it bricks too.

Then I can post a review on both controllers “Bricked by using VM to update the firmware”. Razer can’t make me use Windows bare metal.

According to a YouToot video, you can use the app to update firmware. Hopefully that’s true. I didn’t watch or click the link to video, just read the description on DuckDuckGo. That means my firmware is newer, because it doesn’t match what’s on their site.

The controller would be better if there wasn’t erractic movement, a review mentioned ghost movement, might be the same thing. Depending on the game, you might have a bad time, when it randomly malfunctions. Don’t know if it happens when wired. Maybe there’s too much wireless stuff here, yet Bluetooth controllers work fine. What frequency does Bluetooth use? Don’t know what frequency the wireless USB dongle uses either.

I don’t think you can update the firmware on the USB wireless dongle without Windows. So if the app updates the controller, your USB wireless dongle will remain outdated most likely. Maybe you can with a shitty Android phone.

They charge $250 for this controller, and the wireless has issues. Aiming might be easier, without vibration. Feels like cheating. Until you get the random malfunction.

I will most likely buy that, better CPU and more RAM then my Pi 4. I’d get the 32 GB one, but I think it’s out of stock. And you can use a NVMe SSD. I don’t think you’ll get the max speed, but faster then a micro SD card. Unless they have PCIe 2.0 NVMe SSDs.

Hmm, only two available for the one with a PSU.

Somebody left a comment on an answer saying they couldn’t get a GUI, don’t need a GUI. Not sure they said which distro they are using either.

Don’t really want to buy it until next month at the soonest. Also, need to buy a case, from Thailand. Which I might do before I buy the Orange Pi.

It’ll make a nice NAS or file server, whatever you want to call it. Maybe I’ll move Jellyfin to it. HomeKit stuff might work on it too. Keep the old Raspberry Pi too. Then I can back it up to the other NAS.

The Raspberry Pi might eventually get replaced with an Orange Pi too, maybe just an 8 GB one.

I’ll buy a cheap SSD for it, don’t need a big one, or much speed. Just better then a micro SD card. Might go with Kingston.

Only two USB 3.0 ports, so you might need a hub. I have an old one, but it might have issues. So I’d just buy another Amazon one if I need one.

Maybe get a dual bay or four bay enclosure, then you only need one of the USB ports.

You could buy an actual NAS, but for the price of the Orange Pi, you probably won’t get 16 GB of RAM, and the CPU will probably be worse. Not to mention, you can probably do a lot more with it. It’s Linux after all, not a stripped down Linux.

Says the same people that made Fallout New Vegas made it, I enjoyed that game, don’t think I ever beat it, too lazy.

Native Linux version available. Wouldn’t open, so just kept trying, possibly because of my outgoing firewall. I just deleted the allow rule, not sure why it needs internet, I told it not to collect spy data.

Lots of reading and talking. Not sure I’ll play it much. That makes the game take a long ass time. You can just not read or listen, but then you won’t know what’s happening.

I got the second one too. Total around $22 for those two games. Also got Divinity: Original Sin 2 - Definitive Edition, hopefully it’s not as slow. The graphics look more updated, then the first Pillars of Eternity. Have to test that one, to make sure there’s no issues with Proton. Apparently it likes crashing on the Steam Deck, hopefully that’s Steam Deck related, and doesn’t apply to my desktop. Might work on the Mac ,but says it needs an Intel CPU, no Intel CPU on my Mac.

Total for all three was around $44. I got a bunch of DLC for Pillars of Eternity as well.

Sucks that non Linux game likes crashing on the Steam Deck.

And I should have checked if it’s available for the PS5, since I have a new controller coming. Except, might be more of a mouse game.

Single player games are better, no cat fishers. And no internet needed, unless it has DRM, in that case, you have to crack a game you bought.

Apparently a lot of people hate Fallout New Vegas, no idea why. There’s a funny as fuck guy in it, that I can’t stop harassing. Well, he might be dead now. Did he go on the rocket? Cause I think it blew up. Just talk to that guy over and over, he gets pissed. I should open the game, and see if he’s still there. I won’t do anything else, just want to harass that guy. Or did I kill him? No idea.

There’s a guy you can harass in The Elder Scrolls Online too, if you have High Isles. He was doing something illegal, he gets mad if you talk to him. I find the guy in New Vegas more funny though. And you don’t need internet for New Vegas, unless the DRM forces you to. I probably won’t pay for Xbox Live again. It ain’t worth it.

Bummer, I read it sometimes on the crapper, mostly the forum. Somebody already made a new forum for micro 4/3 cameras. Good news, as I don’t want to pay for better hosting. I also don’t want to moderate a forum, or do anything.

Now if you’ll excuse me, I need to cancel my Amazon Music trial. It may cancel immediately and I won’t be able to use it anymore, but I don’t care. I think it may have said you can use it until the trial is over if you do that. Perhaps not if you cancel right after signing up though. They want a chance you’ll forget.

I’ll be sure to buy most stuff from somewhere else from now on. Amazon only wants your package to come on the day they say, so they wait to ship it. Sometimes you get stuff early. Says I still have access until the trial is over. Nice.

They’d rather shut it down, then sell it. Massive community. Clearly Amazon never cared about it.

Glad I didn’t buy my last lens purchase from Amazon. They don’t need or want the money.

Did buy three games, for around $40 total on Steam. Two of the games, I think are native Linux. Well one is, I assume the second one is as well. Need to test the Windows and Mac only game. As I might need to get a refund. Or see if it works on the Mac mini, except it says Intel. So probably not very well. All can be played by myself, I think. No cat fishers for me.

Source

There’s a wildfire not far from here.

I also, remember, the near death experience saying a lot of people are going to die all at once. From fire.

I became a wild man in the dream, with some other people. I don’t think of of us had clothes anymore. But if what the near death experience said happens, you won’t be escaping the fire.

Perhaps if I pack up and leave now, I might survive. Probably not though. And I’m not sure it’ll be slow. A bunch of the Earth, will probably be on fire at once. That is if a ton of people all die at once.

And the Steam Deck turned on two times today. No idea why. Didn’t turn on, on my birthday, not until around 12 AM the next day. Maybe because I was thinking my birthday didn’t matter, so they didn’t wake it up. And if the Steam Deck is waking itself up, nobody is waking it up, a hacker or otherwise, it’s completely random, because it can go days without waking up.

There is one way to test if it’s Steam, open Steam on my Linux PC, and see if it starts waking up too. But it has woke up without Steam open. So has the Mac mini. I think everything just wakes up in my apartment.

Oh and the fire alarms may or may not go off, when the massive fire that takes out most of humanity happens. Even if it does, it’ll be too late. The sprinklers may or may not work, and even if they do, it won’t stop the fire. Maybe it’ll burn up the pipes.

Well, if the wild fire burns this building down, I won’t be getting TDS Fiber, or have anything anymore. If I’m home, I may try to take some stuff.

Is a blood oxygen of 82 good? I don’t recall even waking up. Yesterday I woke up a bunch, but the Watch didn’t record any blood oxygen under 90%. They said I don’t have sleep apnea, so I must not. Maybe it’ll get down to under 60%, I think my heart rate went down to 55 when sleeping, I have a low heart rate when sleeping. I think my grandma does too, and possibly my mom. Is a blood oxygen of 55% good?

Oh I was having sex with a cis woman in that dream. I was hard, but didn’t get off. Not sure she had tits though.

Perhaps I should close the window, but the air quality is fine according to air purifier. That’s how I know about wild fire, the app for it, told me. I open the window either before or after my shower.

Not me, I barely use the one I have. Stable Diffusion is nice on it. Would be nicer on a M2 Pro one, but not really over a grand nicer.

I may have bought the more expensive PS5 controller, the Razer one. That leaves plenty of money in savings, for more crap I don’t need. But I think I really dislike the controller the PS5 came with, it’s cheap junk. And the battery life sucks. Yes I could use a power bank. Or put a charger behind the chair.

Sucks it doesn’t use AA batteries though. At least, you don’t need Windows to update it or anything.

I might be able to use Stable Diffusion on my desktop, need to see if it has the image to image mode. With a prompt.

You might have the same battery problem with it, since they refuse to use AA batteries. Is that a Sony requirement too? No AA batteries?

I also had a gift card, can’t think of anything else to get. Wasn’t for $250 though, or even $100. Hard to believe a $250 controller is cheaper then the one the PS5 comes with.

I’ll spend more money in May maybe. Might have to buy a modem next month. And I probably won’t buy their modem if it costs over a hundred dollars.

Will that fix my Bluetooth audio issue in Linux? I just got my earbuds connected. USB Bluetooth apparently sucks in Linux. The antenna can only be on top of my case, if the antenna isn’t fully extended, has to be bent slightly, or the keyboard tray can’t come out.

With Bluetooth USB, I get choppy audio, even changing the latency. Not long enough to know if it’s fixed or not.

lspci | grep Intel
05:00.0 Network controller: Intel Corporation Wi-Fi 6 AX210/AX211/AX411 160MHz (rev 1a)
lsusb | grep Intel
Bus 001 Device 004: ID 8087:0032 Intel Corp. AX210 Bluetooth

Didn’t buy it for WiFi, but it finds my 2.4 GHz and 5 GHz.

Didn’t install the driver from their website, works out of the box with openSUSE.

And I might be rebooting, should have ran zypper dup before shutting it down to install the card.

My motherboard has at least two USB 2.0 headers, neither had anything plugged in. And it’s in the bottom PCIe slot, so connecting the antenna cable was a slight pain. Also a pain to connect the USB cable, my hands are too big to fit, with the giant PSU jail. If I buy a new case ever, it won’t have a PSU jail. Unless the case is way bigger.

Recording streaming music using my desktop is easier, and I want to listen using my earbuds while it plays.

Why did my smart surge protector reboot around 1 AM? Heard the air purifier turn off. It’s not smart enough to have a log. Got out of bed, and sure enough, it rebooted for an unknown reason.

Probably a good card for Kismet, I still have my scrub Python script, to remove all data not related to my AP. I don’t usually delete stuff on my computer.

No I didn’t want the TP-Link card, cheaper, but look at the bad reviews. Says something about the antenna. You may have issues. And it doesn’t officially support Linux.

But yes, the ASUS card’s Bluetooth works in Linux, even though nobody says that’s the case. The driver on their site for Linux, I think says WiFi only driver. So I didn’t know if that meant no Bluetooth in Linux. I should write a review saying the WiFi and Bluetooth works in Linux.

Now to reboot, easier then trying to manually restart stuff, and some stuff still says it’s using deleted files, like systemd.

So far appears to be fixed. But why does a PCIe card need USB for Bluetooth?

If you want to see a possibly pregnant robot, go here. A photo of a robot was taken, well somebody who identifies as a robot. Then Stable Diffusion was used to try and give them large breasts. And a bald head. Make sure you use a mask on the image, or you’ll get even more unexpected results.

You may find a new kink you like, with Stable Diffusion. Oh and I think one image generated, not on there, gave them a vagina. Even though they have boxers on in the original photo. Good idea, make photos of myself with a vagina. For masturbating of course.

Looks like BuyShared crashed while I was in the middle of doing something.

And that might piss me off enough, to pay more for different hosting.

That’s why you should make the entire site offline, not do it on the server. You can use WordPress offline, you just need a webserver, PHP, and a database. But that’s too much work.

They didn’t notify that they were shutting the server down today. Nice communication. I could email support, every time they do that. They might get annoyed though. I ain’t paying $2 or whatever a month, for the server to crap itself while I’m in the middle of something.

This post may not be available for a while, since the server is dead. Can’t upload it obviously.

Oh their server came back online.

The last temperature reading was 1:05 AM. It logs the temperature to a file every 5 minutes, not on the SSD though. On an internal drive. Before I rebooted, there was some stuff in dmesg, you can probably see it with journalctl. Don’t know if there was a kernel bug, that’s why I rebooted, I updated the kernel. There might have been a kernel update yesterday too.

I think one review said their USB cable went bad. So I used the USB C to C cable that came with my SanDick drive, I’m using the C to A cable it came with for it. Surprised it works at the full speed, as that SanDick drive isn’t the same USB version. The cable is longer as well. So SanDick gives you a high quality cable, and Plugable gives you junk, nice.

And I should have ran a benchmark with the old cable, and possibly old kernel. As the benchmark I ran after rebooting, and with the SanDick cable, is higher.

                        KDiskMark (3.1.2): https://github.com/JonMagon/KDiskMark
                    Flexible I/O Tester (fio-3.33): https://github.com/axboe/fio
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
* MB/s = 1,000,000 bytes/s [SATA/600 = 600,000,000 bytes/s]
* KB = 1000 bytes, KiB = 1024 bytes

[Read]
Sequential   1 MiB (Q=  8, T= 1):   932.905 MB/s [    911.0 IOPS] <  8757.72 us>
Sequential 128 KiB (Q= 32, T= 1):   898.080 MB/s [   7016.3 IOPS] <  4555.17 us>
    Random   4 KiB (Q= 32, T=16):   149.777 MB/s [  37445.2 IOPS] <  3412.40 us>
    Random   4 KiB (Q=  1, T= 1):    27.639 MB/s [   6909.9 IOPS] <   144.01 us>

[Write]
Sequential   1 MiB (Q=  8, T= 1):   911.365 MB/s [    890.0 IOPS] <  8631.36 us>
Sequential 128 KiB (Q= 32, T= 1):   877.234 MB/s [   6853.4 IOPS] <  4618.04 us>
    Random   4 KiB (Q= 32, T=16):   157.921 MB/s [  39481.4 IOPS] <  3235.49 us>
    Random   4 KiB (Q=  1, T= 1):    49.917 MB/s [  12479.3 IOPS] <    77.97 us>

Profile: Default
   Test: 1 GiB (x5) [Measure: 5 sec / Interval: 5 sec]
   Date: 2023-03-18 12:00:19
     OS: opensuse-tumbleweed 20230316 [linux 6.2.6-1-default]

Didn’t get over 900 MB/s read and write in the last benchmark.

I think the light was still on, on the enclosure. So it must have been getting power. They should just sell it with no cables, if the cable is that crappy.

I think I’m still using the USB cable my HD dock from Plugable came with, and that thing is super old. So not all the cables they include are junk. Maybe just more recent stuff, that’s the case.

Either way, I think if I buy another NVMe enclosure, I’ll spend a lot more money. As if I get one for the Mac mini, I want Thunderbolt anyways. And a cable that won’t crap out.

Delivery isn’t free, if you try adding something to your order, or edit the substitutions, they charge you more money, this time including the delivery fee. They said some stuff might be out of stock, so I changed the substitution for one thing, and immediately got an unexpected charge on my card.

That amount changed, and now if you add it all up, it obviously includes a delivery fee.

So what the fuck is the point in Walmart+? Depending on what they say, I may cancel the trial. I’m not paying for crap, that is false advertising.

Only thing I can think, is because she got a delivery too, they decided to charge me. They should have charged her, so she can enjoy contacting them instead. I could look at their terms, but I’m lazy.

Thank you for contacted Walmart.com. I am really sorry for the inconvenience you have faced with your order# xxxx. As per checking the details I can see that you are 100% right this might have happened due to some technical issue and no need to worry I have raised this with our team to make sure that this will not going to be happen again. Furthermore, I have processed a refund for the delivery fee, the amount of refund is $8.29 and refund will reflect back to your account within 10 business days.

Nice, might take ten days to get my money back. I didn’t add yogurt to my order, because I refused to pay almost $20, for two things of yogurt. Might be $9 or $10, without that $8 charge they really wanted to charge me.

And the amount is $8.29?

Nice, they are going to charge me the tip soon too, so more then the total once that happens.

Well, they might refund a penny more, I’m too lazy to correct them. And too lazy to do any math. The charge says a penny less. But maybe it’s changing to a penny more. Who knows. And why does the money app say alerts are off for everything? Need to login on my computer.

I have problems with online ordering at all stores. Still not sure I’ll pay for it. As I don’t want to email them every time they charge me for delivery.

Oh and buying a modem from TDS might not be an option, I think they told her, you have to rent it. I won’t rent it. Nor pay more then $100. The refurbished one is under $100, therefore, I’ll buy that one, if it’ll work. That is they told my mom that. Or was it my grandpa? No idea. They told my mom she could use her own modem most likely. I have an old modem, but it won’t get the speed. Not even sure was version of cable crap it is. So it might not work at all.

Well, the credit union’s site is junk, says I have no cards, under card management.

Apparently however I have notifications setup, is better then the way she does. She claims no notifications until the next day after using her card. I get notifications right away. Even though the app says it ain’t turned on. Don’t ask me how I set it up on their site.

Perhaps I won’t get any notifications soon.

How many times have they changed their notifications now? They should really hire people that know what they are doing.