Something randomly types 0s into stuff. No idea if it’s software, the keyboard, or the USB switch.

If it’s the keyboard, I’d reckon HP’s gaming brand makes the worst mechanical keyboards. I think HP makes it.

I just got a cheap Logitech mechanical keyboard, with the quieter switches. If it’s used, it’s going back though. I don’t pay the price of a new item for a used item.

So Razer is better then HP, assuming the keyboard is the problem. It doesn’t happen often oddly. But it’s annoying as fuck, as it has altered stuff and broke commands. The Razer one I had lasted way longer.

At least Logitech has been making keyboards a long time.

I didn’t order a made for phones audio interface. It’s USB, but should work with an adapter, according to newer answered questions. Not supported. But I figured I’d have better luck with the buzzing issue, then a cheaper one. A review says it works too. You just need the camera lightning adapter for an iPhone, as it needs power. Now on the iPad mini I have, just a USB Type-C adapter should work, except it might be USB Type-C, so just a cable in that case.

Perhaps the next iPhone will be USB Type-C. That will be the only reason to get it. But I probably won’t. Too expensive. And my phone keeps working for what I do. I want to know if my magnetic battery’s USB has enough power for a lightning camera adapter. Or for a USB audio interface plugged into it.

I also need some straps, to strap it to my video rig. Maybe you can 3D print something, but I’m too lazy to mess with 3D printer. Not really enough sleep anymore. Moving might fix that. Depending on where I move. To a cave in the middle of nowhere, might.

They have more then one customer, as their support responds pretty quickly, and I don’t think the same person every time. If only one customer, they’d probably have one person, and might take days to respond.

If you aren’t rolling your own solution with open source software, they have great support. I use their app, wasn’t getting notifications for SMS, unless I opened the app.

They looked into it, and changed something on the server. Think the phone has been with the screen off long enough to send myself a text. If it’s still an issue, I blame Apple.

Nice, looks like it works now. I never have to open the app now.

Unless I want to make a call from my VoIP number.

But I get another notification once I click it. Still better then not getting notified with the app not open.

I think magicJack has horrible support. Never needed it though.

I don’t need an old fashion phone, so only need the app. But there are plenty of hardware things you can buy. And it won’t be locked down like magicJack.

Are you wondering why “Bertom Audio Denoiser Classic” doesn’t work in Linux?

ld Bertom_DenoiserPro.so
ld: warning: cannot find entry symbol _start; not setting start address
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_easy_getinfo@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_multi_perform@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_multi_cleanup@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_multi_info_read@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_slist_free_all@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_easy_setopt@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_easy_init@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_multi_fdset@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_slist_append@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_multi_add_handle@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_multi_remove_handle@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_easy_cleanup@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_multi_init@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_multi_timeout@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_version_info@CURL_OPENSSL_4'

So what is the path it’s looking for?

Renoise is smart enough to not even add it. Looks like a nice program, there’s a demo. Just change the scaling to 175% or so. I’d buy it, but not until I get that plugin working. Or until the new audio interface comes.

LD_DEBUG=libs ld Bertom_DenoiserPro.so 
     15666:     find library=libbfd-2.40.0.20230412-5.so [0]; searching
     15666:      search cache=/etc/ld.so.cache
     15666:       trying file=/lib64/libbfd-2.40.0.20230412-5.so
     15666:
     15666:     find library=libctf.so.0 [0]; searching
     15666:      search cache=/etc/ld.so.cache
     15666:       trying file=/lib64/libctf.so.0
     15666:
     15666:     find library=libc.so.6 [0]; searching
     15666:      search cache=/etc/ld.so.cache
     15666:       trying file=/lib64/libc.so.6
     15666:
     15666:     find library=libz.so.1 [0]; searching
     15666:      search cache=/etc/ld.so.cache
     15666:       trying file=/lib64/glibc-hwcaps/x86-64-v3/libz.so.1.2.13
     15666:
     15666:     find library=libzstd.so.1 [0]; searching
     15666:      search cache=/etc/ld.so.cache
     15666:       trying file=/lib64/glibc-hwcaps/x86-64-v3/libzstd.so.1.5.5
     15666:
     15666:     find library=libsframe.so.0 [0]; searching
     15666:      search cache=/etc/ld.so.cache
     15666:       trying file=/lib64/libsframe.so.0
     15666:
     15666:
     15666:     calling init: /lib64/ld-linux-x86-64.so.2
     15666:
     15666:
     15666:     calling init: /lib64/libc.so.6
     15666:
     15666:
     15666:     calling init: /lib64/libsframe.so.0
     15666:
     15666:
     15666:     calling init: /lib64/glibc-hwcaps/x86-64-v3/libzstd.so.1.5.5
     15666:
     15666:
     15666:     calling init: /lib64/glibc-hwcaps/x86-64-v3/libz.so.1.2.13
     15666:
     15666:
     15666:     calling init: /lib64/libbfd-2.40.0.20230412-5.so
     15666:
     15666:
     15666:     calling init: /lib64/libctf.so.0
     15666:
     15666:
     15666:     initialize program: ld
     15666:
     15666:
     15666:     transferring control: ld
     15666:
ld: warning: cannot find entry symbol _start; not setting start address
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_easy_getinfo@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_multi_perform@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_multi_cleanup@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_multi_info_read@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_slist_free_all@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_easy_setopt@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_easy_init@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_multi_fdset@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_slist_append@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_multi_add_handle@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_multi_remove_handle@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_easy_cleanup@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_multi_init@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_multi_timeout@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
ld: Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: undefined reference to `curl_version_info@CURL_OPENSSL_4'
     15666:
     15666:     calling fini:  [0]
     15666:
     15666:
     15666:     calling fini: /lib64/libctf.so.0 [0]
     15666:
     15666:
     15666:     calling fini: /lib64/libbfd-2.40.0.20230412-5.so [0]
     15666:
     15666:
     15666:     calling fini: /lib64/glibc-hwcaps/x86-64-v3/libz.so.1.2.13 [0]
     15666:
     15666:
     15666:     calling fini: /lib64/glibc-hwcaps/x86-64-v3/libzstd.so.1.5.5 [0]
     15666:
     15666:
     15666:     calling fini: /lib64/libsframe.so.0 [0]
     15666:
     15666:
     15666:     calling fini: /lib64/libc.so.6 [0]
     15666:
     15666:
     15666:     calling fini: /lib64/ld-linux-x86-64.so.2 [0]
     15666:

Not even sure they say what you need to run the plugin, well I don’t think I’ll buy it then. They assume I’m psychic. And curl is installed. And /usr/lib64/libcurl.so.4 exists, so what’s the problem? In /lib64 too.

You could always use ldd, to get paths.

“./Bertom_DenoiserPro.so: /lib64/libcurl.so.4: no version information available (required by ./Bertom_DenoiserPro.so) libcurl.so.4 => /lib64/libcurl.so.4 (0x00007fc235ae1000) "

So openSUSE is a dick.

Running curl directly, works just fine.

Too bad it doesn’t work with Audacity in Linux, it crashes when I try to use it. Here is a burp with hopefully the buzzing removed, I can’t hear it.

That was recorded earlier or some other day, before the audio interface broke.

I’ll pony up the $25 for the Pro version soon. After I get a new audio interface. It has an auto mode, which is nice. I should try the demo in Audacity, to see if that crashes too.

Nope, doesn’t work. Audacity even disabled it automatically, enabled it, and does the same thing. Crashes when you try to use it.

The power button just broke. No wonder it was hard to turn on.

Now to ask for a refund on Amazon, it has a battery, so I can’t ship it back. I’ll donate it to the recycling place perhaps, or a thrift store of some kind.

Bought a bunch of iOS apps too. Now all useless. And one app, doesn’t appear to do what somebody said it can do anyways. Or does it? No idea. I can’t mess with it anymore, thanks Donner.

Now I get to buy a different one, that might not have buzzing. And that noise suppressing audio unit extension doesn’t seem to do much.

First you have to get shipping label, then read that you can’t ship batteries, then Contact Amazon, they make it easy.

And I guess you can ship it back somehow. Too bad I threw the box out eh? Think I did that today.

At least, the apps might allow me to make everybody sound like a robot, if it really will let my video recording app use it. It might with an audio interface. After I get a new one, that will probably cost more. No microphone this month, or I mean next month.

PreSonus AudioBox GO for $80, comes with software, probably not available for iOS or iPad, but maybe the Mac. I get an interface and software, for one price. And shouldn’t need to buy anymore software, well maybe a noise suppressing plugin.

And you’ll have to use a USB C to A cable, and the camera adapter with an iPhone, if you want to power it. Which you probably do. Which means, I’ll probably need a USB battery when taking videos, I’ll use my magnetic one that goes on the back. Or maybe it doesn’t need as much power if it has no battery. Then I can drain my iPhone even faster. Garage Band did a number on the battery today, and I didn’t do much.

But can you turn phantom power off? If not, it’s only good for phantom power stuff.

And I don’t think I care if it works with Garage Band on the Mac, it’s a pain to use anyways.

How the fuck do people compile ffmpeg statically? Maybe there’s a Podman container to do it. I need ARM64. And a custom ffmpeg.

If Amazon gives me any shit about no box, what do they need the box for? To resell it? Whoever buys it will sure be happy.

A hum or buzzing noise, glad I didn’t pay for the “better” adapter.

You may be able to fix it with a hum eliminator, or a new audio interface. A hum eliminator is only $30, no idea if that’s the problem though.

And pipewire-media-session fixed my audio in VLC, had to reinstall pipewire-pulse or whatever, was having issues. Like no sound in Audacity.

Here is a burp recorded with it, you can make the volume louder, but enjoy making that lovely noise louder too.

Now to reboot, to make sure it works after rebooting.

I messed up PipeWire, by following instructions I didn’t need to do. I also did “–allow-vendor-change”. The repo I have for proprietary stuff, might not be updated or something. Speaking of, I should update before rebooting.

After installing pipewire-media-session, run systemctl –user enable –now pipewire-media-session.

I’m too lazy to report the bug. A bug like it exists, but it appears to have been fixed. Just play a burp recording of mine, and you’ll see issues in VLC on my computer. Doesn’t play smoothly, the timing might be broken.

And now my external NVMe drive is super slow. Perhaps not using UAS on it, doesn’t fix it anymore. With that enabled before, randomly when rebooting, it would be slower. But disabling USB suspending might be the real solution.

Can’t reboot right now, still trying to make a static build of ffmpeg on my Raspberry Pi, the Orange Pi 5 is next, found a ffmpeg build with support for encoding on my Orange Pi 5.

I’ll just unmount the drive, and unplug it and back in. Reboot later.

And probably need to reboot, UAS is still ignored, and I commented that out. Probably need to do rmmod, too bad it’s in use, by a lot of stuff. Lots of USB drives.

Hmm, so the annoying reboot bug came back. As the read speed might be normal now. The write speed still sucks.

And drive is fast again. Didn’t need to reboot two times, turns out UAS is disabled for a hub I think. Is it the Amazon hub? Or one of the ports on a drive or the case?

I put the build in the background, but I think it failed, and I have no idea what failed. Restarting it. I should really use screen or something.

And a hum eliminator might not work, it needs phantom power passthrough. Or can you plug it in with a dumb adapter and then do what they say? Plug the microphone into the thing, then plug the thing into the phantom power. Or something like that.

And something said something about mono. I think my microphone is mono, not sure what they were talking about. If it only works with stereo microphones, the adapter is useless. Too much work to find a stereo shotgun microphone. Does that even exist?

But you can make a stereo microphone, get two mono microphones. Problem solved, well, not if you need an adapter possibly. If that’s the cause of the buzzing, it won’t fix it. Unless you can plug both into the one adapter.

A different audio mixer could fix it as well, too bad I just bought this one, the box is gone.

You can fix it for free, on your computer, lower the recording level, if using Linux, you may have to use PulseAudio Volume Control. Which kind of defeats the purpose of it, as it won’t be as loud once you do that. Even with the audio interface cranked up. In fact, the microphone has to be much closer. Might as well plug directly into the iPhone at this point.

You have to turn gain down too. And it’s still there, turn your volume up.

Lower it to 30% that might do the trick. Now I need to save it and play in VLC with volume massively increased. And still there. Don’t even need to export it to tell. Still there at 20%, if you crank volume up in VLC. Might be gone at 10%, but you can’t hear anything. Still there at 15%. Almost gone at 11%. But you need a way to increase the volume a lot. Or maybe just use Audacity to do that. Now to try 5%, and increase the volume after it records, so I can hear it.

Well, I don’t think you can get rid of it. Well, you can with Audacity, by editing the audio. I did turn the gain all the way up at 5%. You have to amplify the audio more then once, to get it loud enough.

The filament that actually got on the new bed thing, it stuck to it, much better.

But I think the temperature needs to be increased. Either that, or this nozzle sucks, somebody said they got less “stringing” with these nozzles. Is that what I’m getting? It seems to be drying before it comes out all the way.

Perhaps the filament is no good, it was stored outside of the vent, in a pocket on the outside, but not sealed or anything.

Either way, I think I can print something soon. I have more filament I can use.

Don’t bother with the bed thing the Ender 3 V2 Neo comes with, it’s junk apparently, well I might have ruined it as well. And you don’t need the magnetic thing with adhesive on it, if your bed already is magnetic. I removed it from the bed thing, and threw it away. That’s why it doesn’t come attached to the bed thing, it goes on the printer, if you need it, I don’t.

Glad I don’t have to get a third party auto level thing. Well apparently it’s faster, but what firmware are they using? The firmware from that site? Did they test auto leveling with the existing hardware with that firmware? As it seems fast enough for me, with their firmware.

But it might have some kind of computer in it, for leveling it, instead of using the same computer as the printer. So it probably is faster, get the USB cable for power perhaps. Or not, I think it comes with some kind of power for it. Hopefully a long cable. Cause it’ll plug in outside of the tent.

I could have got a printer for $280 or $270, that has a z offset probe. Or is that what auto leveling does? In that case, why does the printer let you set that? Why would I manually level it?

I think the file the printer came with is junk, as the temperature is too low. Or the fan is running too fast, and cooling it down too fast. You can fix either by turning fan down, or increasing temperature.

bcm2835-codec bcm2835-codec: Mutex fail

And running v4l2-ctl -D -d 11 seems to hang, assuming 11 is right, no idea.

Can’t reboot right now, encoding Channels DVR recordings, and soon stuff will be recording.

I was trying to get regular ffmpeg working, not their custom ffmpeg.

I made a script, to run the ffmpeg I compiled. I should perhaps try the one included in Armbian.

And why can’t you get the arguments and then automatically pass them to the actual program correctly? I had to make a loop, so I can correct the input file, as if it has spaces, it won’t work.

Would be way easier with Python. Unless you know Bash better then me.

I won’t be sharing the script any time soon, and since you can crash the Pi with it, probably not worth sharing.

Hardware transcoding isn’t currently an option in Channels DVR, even with their ffmpeg now. I need to reboot it, most likely. Somebody had same issue with Jellyfin, and the latest firmware, so no need to update firmware, maybe downgrade.

He said nothing about when to take abilify, or that it could completely mess up my sleep. Only sleep four hours or so, isn’t very good for you. At least if you require more then that.

I didn’t take it last night, and slept just fine. If I woke up at all, I had zero issue falling back a sleep. Oh and I went to bed before 10 PM, got up around 6 AM or close to 7 AM. Took it this morning though. As long as I don’t sleep too long, and take it in the morning, I might be fine. If not, I’ll probably discontinue it, the doctor doesn’t tell me anything, so I won’t tell them anything or consult them.

And SMS works on my ported number, they either have to remove the assigned number, or make adjustments. I tried requesting them to delete the assigned number, but I guess the email I sent it to, they didn’t see. So I emailed support again, asking about SMS.

If I change my insurance, I’ll have to get a new doctor. But that’s too much work. Since all medicine has lots of side effects, I think no insurance is the way to go.

mv /var/lib/bluetooth /var/lib/bluetooth.bak
systemctl restart bluetooth

That’s all I needed to do, didn’t need to disable anything, or uninstall anything. If you follow instructions for disabling PipeWire, you’ll delete some config files you might need when you reinstall it, I think it’s pipewire-bluetooth or something for the package. Or restore a backup of the config files.

Computer isn’t lagging itself anymore either. Playing something in VLC works correctly, that is the audio.

So something in that folder was messed up. And has been for a while, it just got more messed up.

It wasn’t caused by the last system freeze and forced reboot, that actually happened today.

I even updated the bios, turns out it was a software problem, Bluetooth to be exact.

Probably not worth $10, if you own the older Acrobits Softphone. But I suppose it might look slightly better. I’m too lazy to ask Apple for a refund, I don’t like asking for refunds, there should be an automated button.

Now if I could export the config from the 1-VoIP app, I’d have SMS in it, possibly.

I can’t even login to the message site in a browser. Maybe my settings aren’t allowing the cookie. Too lazy to email them again. Already had to email to get the login info to use a different softphone.

Was trying to change the caller ID on incoming calls, as iOS is a dick, and only shows the name. So it just says Unknown for some, and some bogus name if I call myself. They should let you send CallKit "" for the name. Unless they are on the contacts. In that case, let iOS get the name from the contacts.

SMS doesn’t work on ported number yet.

And when you search DuckDuckGo for 1-VoIP, there’s zero info. I guess nobody uses them.

Good way to get people to not answer the phone, don’t show the number, just some bogus name. So if the doctor calls, and it says something bogus, I obviously won’t answer. I can sort of tell by the number, but no number shows. Maybe it’s a new iOS “feature”. Rebooting my phone, as it could just be buggy shit. Nope.

Can you disable CallKit then?

Disk activity makes Bluetooth audio stutter, or is it UrBackup? Might actually be Firefox. Don’t think it’s Firefox, pactl list sink-inputs doesn’t show anything except music. How high do I have to make the latency offset? Already increased it.

Guess PCIe cards aren’t better after all. System load could be the issue, nice feature. Did it while using Hakchi2-CE to export games.

A real time kernel is too much work. And I thought it used PipeWire not PulseAudio? But good idea, revert to Alsa, and ditch this BS.

Apparently all you have to do is type sudo setup-pulseaudio –disable, unless using GNOME. Perhaps GNOME works better with PipeWire or PulseAudio, whatever the fuck it uses. Both are similar.

You need to disable PipeWire too, now to reboot again. Why is computer lagging? Was faster for a second.

Cheaper then the Rode VXLR Plus adapter. And either one can make it have noises, I think they said a hum noise.

So why spend more on the Rode? Somebody said it was wired incorrectly. Most likely a manufacturing problem, as I doubt they’d design it wrong.

My microphone might not work with any adapters. The manufacture doesn’t make an adapter. The adapters might be mostly tested with their own microphones.

I did buy two non needed adapters though.

If the adapter works at all, I might buy their $50 microphone on Friday, assuming it’s still $50. Even if it has a humming sound, that means it works, more then it does without it.

The humming sound might be removable in an audio editor. If it does it with no sound, or when you aren’t making noise. At least the open source editor, you have to select a certain amount of audio. You probably don’t want to select your singing, when doing noise reduction.

I did buy a microphone, turns out they didn’t actually have it. I got my money back already. Had money in PayPal. You can’t find reviews on that model anyways. But I think I’ll pass on buying from Kenmore Camera again. Update your online stock, so people don’t order shit you don’t have. Unless they just sold it today in store, and it doesn’t automatically update the site. That’s doubtful. They probably never had it.

Movo is cheaper anyways. Non XLR microphones are cheaper as well. I think the one Kenmore Camera doesn’t have, had a battery, so no adapter needed.

So the adapter is a better buy, then any XLR microphone. You have a lot more choices, for shotgun microphones. They work fine, so why not use them? There’s better ones for singing, but I don’t want multiple in use microphones. One that can do everything is better.

And good luck setting the z offset on a 3D printer, I guess you have to do it while it’s printing. So I think I’ll do nothing, since printing doesn’t work right. Put the new bed thing on, but didn’t align it right, to the part that sticks to it. Doesn’t stick to printer. Not even sure why you need that though. But as long as I don’t print on the edge, it probably won’t matter. Good luck moving it, strong adhesive.

And four or so hours of sleep, probably won’t work very well. I think soon, I won’t sleep at all, the amount of sleep, is decreasing. Doesn’t matter how I feel. I ain’t fighting anything, as if I try to sleep longer, I move automatically, hit the bed, and try to get out of bed. Body does it all by itself. Like I’m a robot, which I am.

I’d rather not take Zyprexa anymore, too many side effects. Maybe I need to take abilify in the morning or something.

And I probably won’t get it, they decided to ship it using UPS. If they come after 4 PM, they won’t be able to deliver it. UPS’s site currently says by 7 PM, so if that doesn’t change to before 4 PM, well, oh well. I’ll just get my money back, and take my business somewhere else, don’t ask me where, probably nowhere. No idea how the manufacture ships it. If FedEx or UPS, not worth it. Would be funny though, to re order it from Amazon constantly, and have it fail to deliver constantly. I won’t lose money, Amazon might though.

Nowhere else to ship anything this week. I have no way to go get it. But I’ll be sure to remember if I don’t get it. As I won’t bother shipping anything expensive here.

They delivered a screen protector or something really cheap to the wrong person once, I never got it. I did get my money back though. At least if I don’t get my medicine I don’t have to take it, she said it all has lots of side effects, so in other words, I shouldn’t take any of it. I may have to stop the abilify so I can sleep. Why take it in the morning? Lots of side effects, you’ll get a new one.

I’m guessing heart medicine has lots of side effects too, so I won’t ever take that either.

If using openSUSE, it isn’t that hard, perhaps use the newer Mono, but probably doesn’t matter.

Some newer packages for openSUSE are available here.

Installing mono-complete, should get you everything you need, you don’t need nuget. Didn’t need to install two things, might not even be in the right folder. Perhaps nuget is needed to get whatever makes regular non recovery USB working.

Oh right, the udev rules below:

/etc/udev/rules.d/10-network-sega.rules (Not really needed, just so I can connect easier, if I want to use SSH.) And probably need to set a static MAC address. Or change the config for network manager to use usb0 only, and not the random MAC address.:

SUBSYSTEM=="net", ACTION=="add", ATTRS{idVendor}=="04e8", ATTRS{idProduct}=="6863", NAME="usb0"

/etc/udev/rules.d/68-sega.rules:

SUBSYSTEMS=="usb", ATTRS{idVendor}=="1f3a", ATTRS{idProduct}=="efe8", MODE="0660", TAG+="uaccess"

/etc/udev/rules.d/69-sega.rules:

SUBSYSTEMS=="usb", ATTRS{idVendor}=="04e8", ATTRS{idProduct}=="6863", MODE="0660", TAG+="uaccess"

The internet refused to tell me how to do the udev part, so I had to slowly figure it out.

And if you have xdg-document-portal, you will get an access denied error, every time you try exporting to USB, the reason I was using Wine. It’s a xdg-document-portal problem, because stopping it, makes it work. No need to edit their source code, or figure Mono out, just temporally stop xdg-document-portal. But I think I might disable it, as it may be the cause of other issues.

Now if you don’t get an access denied error, you are lucky.

systemctl --user stop xdg-document-portal.service
mono /media/movies/Hakchi2-CE/hakchi.exe
systemctl --user start xdg-document-portal.service

Now how do you select over 1000 files with it? Worked in Windows. But I copied it to a faster drive, so maybe you just wait a long ass time. Will need to unselect some stuff too. Don’t need the bios.

And it looks like, it doesn’t exactly work, it’s trying to write to /hakchi/. Not on the actual drive. Got to love Windows bullshit. But I need to add a bunch more games, so might just try Wine. After I export these games though.

Just run sudo ln -s /run/media/xxx/GAMES/hakchi/ /hakchi, to export to USB. Too bad Mono can’t handle selecting a shitload of files. Too bad I can’t compile it, so I can use the official open source .Net. Too much work, already tried and failed. At this point, I should port the it to Linux. I’ll have to pass though.

Just write a new one, in Gambas or something. I think I know what it’s doing to get the game folder names, it’s accessing some site with game info, and naming based on that. But who needs a GUI? Just make a Python script. Well, the official .Net open source might not do 32bit, and I think the compiled one is 32bit.

Might be a KDE Wayland problem, for why I can’t select all the games. Too lazy to use X11 to see if that works. And it might do the same thing using Wine, but I think it’s using Mono, at least my 32bit prefix.

How do I run Mono with Xwayland? Hmm, Wine may use Xwayland. So I may have already tested Wayland and Xwayland. If Mono uses Wayland.

Still doesn’t work, using env -u WAYLAND_DISPLAY to run it. Is it using GTK? “GDK_BACKEND=x11”, maybe changing to Wayland will do something, like not work at all. Mono might not support Wayland, and I’m too lazy to look it up.

Good idea, use Distrobox, Ubuntu is officially supported by Mono.

Hmm, think I had same problem in Windows, can’t recall what buttons I clicked to get around it though. ctrl + a, didn’t fix it. Already tried with shift.

Can I get a proper shotgun microphone for $25? That’s how much the Rode VXLR Plus XLR to 3.5mm Female TRS Transforming Adapter is, apparently I need that. Bought wrong adapters, even bought an adapter and cable at Best Buy, too late to cancel Amazon order, I tried.

You might get a hum with that though. They claim there’s battery powered ones.

Well, better go to sleep. I’ll look for a microphone tomorrow. If I can’t get one for $25, I’ll just get the adapter, and hope for no hum.

Update
Don’t bother with Mono, exporting games doesn’t work right, at least if you have a lot of games. Use Wine instead. I use Bottles. Cause I’m lazy. Install “dotnet461” which will install the other stuff you need. If using 64bit, you may have to mess with the runner until it works. Or maybe that’s only if you change the runner. To use 32bit, make a custom bottle.

I’m using a 32 GB micro SD card in a card reader, but any storage should work, if it has enough power to power it, if not, use a powered USB hub.

No idea what the correct way to get USB drives working is, doesn’t work automatically, and I gave up trying to find instructions. I ended up using a shitty Windows VM and the shitty telnet thing to connect, should have just used SSH from my desktop. I did finally get Hakchi2-CE mostly working in Linux, I think you can install the hack, and export to USB. Syncing won’t work though, no idea why not. So no sending reboot to it, if it goes into recovery mode, it should work.

Add the below to /etc/fstab, I used vi.

LABEL=GAMES	/media	vfat	defaults,nosuid,noatime		0	0

I formatted the micro SD card as FAT32, and labeled it GAMES, even if using lowercase, it changes to caps. At least when labeling it from Linux.

You can figure out how to get /media/profiles with data yourself. No idea what the point in this “GUI” is, requires Windows, doing Linux stuff, and can’t even get USB drives working.

Reverse engineering it would be super simple, just look at the code. And then make scripts to do it.

Trying to add a shitload of roms to it, but I think the file explorer dialog crashed.

Update
I don’t think you need the bind stuff. Still works, even after removing that, or is the symlink still there? None of the games will open though, only the original games, which should be on the micro SD card. I added a bunch, made a script to put 50 files in different folders, so I could use the shitty GUI to add them all.

Going to just format it, and see if that fixes it, I’ll change /etc/fstab of course. Nope, no symlinks. So I’ll just format it, and hope for the best.

If that doesn’t work, I guess I have too many games, or the config is broken. That is it no emulator selected.

Updated the /etc/fstab above, and looks like I need Windows to format it. Said it was taking too long to reboot, and everything is the same.

And the Exec is wrong in the desktop files, no wonder it doesn’t work. I’ll try Wine. Appears to be taking a lot longer, so I guess using Mono is broken in many ways.

You will do it wrong, when nobody tells you how to use a USB drive with it. There’s apparently no real documentation, and searching the internet doesn’t find anything. Probably supposed to auto mount it, but isn’t.

Everything works again. Good job Mono and/or Hakchi2-CE.

I got an email titled “T-Mobile Notification: Equipment Modified” claiming to be from T-Mobile. If the numbers are IMEI numbers, they are apparently invalid, one site says.

I didn’t lookup the IP addresses of the server, but Google should know if it’s a spoofed email.

The number could be an old number I had. But I have no service directly from T-Mobile. And if it’s spoofing, I have no idea what they are trying to accomplish. Perhaps the phone number isn’t T-Mobile.

And it’s most likely phising, I just looked up the number 1-800-937-8997 on Whitepages.com. Or not, that is the number listed here. Assuming that’s really T-Mobile’s site. Looks like it.

So T-Mobile is an idiot, but so is Google.

Oh and hardware encoding works with a custom compiled ffmpeg, probably won’t work with Channels DVR, gets errors, if you pass all options to it. Perhaps I should try anyways and see what happens. Nope, same errors when running it manually. Since I don’t know what the custom ffmpeg is, there isn’t anything I can do about it. Did they modify it? Or just compile it? No idea.

Don’t think it solved the microphone being too quiet problem on my phone. Perhaps the app I’m using sucks, and you can adjust the gain, if you use the 3.5mm lightning adapter, but not with the Livejack M Audio Interface, at least not in the app.

If I turn the power on, the microphone doesn’t work at all, it’s plugged into the AUX in.

But I bought a 6.5mm to 3.5mm adapter thing, so I can plug it into the giant ass connector. And perhaps turning it on, will work, if I I use it that way.

Maybe the gain adjustment does nothing if you don’t turn it on. I tried both cables, well, only one cable with it not turned on. If I plug it into my voice recorder, it appears to be louder then my phone, using the same cable.

Not sure turning the volume way up makes much difference.

You can’t fully use the Livejack M without it turned on, the thing that lights up, won’t light up. It’s basically a giant ass 3.5mm adapter with it off.

If all fails, I’ll get a new microphone, that uses 6.5mm.

I wouldn’t say it’s high quality made. Glad I only paid $40 or so. The phone directly with regular 3.5mm adapter uses TRRS, I was using the TRS to TRS cable. I use the TRS to TRS with my voice recorder. That voice recorder didn’t cost much, and I wouldn’t say is high quality either, yet so far, it records better then my expensive phone.

I should try it as it is, with my computer. And see if the other cable works or not. Didn’t know it had to be off. But I need it louder on the phone too, as if I take a video, I may not have computer where microphone is. And syncing audio to video is too much work.

Maybe get an XLR microphone instead, and a stand for it. And a stripper pole.

Finally got distcc to work, you don’t need a service on the Raspberry Pi 4, if it’s connecting to my desktop.

Now to try and get Hakchi working with other emulators, I got the micro SD card in a USB adapter working, I used ln -s and edited /etc/fstab. But I think next time, I’ll run SSH from Linux, instead of using the shitty Windows crap for it. I even formatted drive as ext2, ext4 didn’t work, don’t feel like disabling every feature it doesn’t support until it works. It isn’t automatic, using FAT32 doesn’t work by itself. And using NTFS with the driver you can use, isn’t going to be great. Unless they are using the new kernel driver for NTFS from newer kernels. Doubtful. You can install NTFS3G or something, which is old.

There’s no instructions using using USB storage with a Sega Genesis Mini and Hakchi2-CE, so good luck. If you don’t know how to use Linux, you’ll be in for a bad time. And why does something that uses or modifies Linux, require Windows? Makes zero sense.

And maybe don’t use ext2, already corrupted. Maybe the modules are being put in the folder that is symlinked.

2023/06/23 22:08:32.978297 [HLS] ffmpeg: file262-ip192.x.x.x:  Error while filtering: Invalid request descriptor
2023/06/23 22:08:32.979632 [HLS] ffmpeg: file262-ip192.x.x.x:  Failed to inject frame into filter network: Invalid request descriptor
2023/06/23 22:08:32.979679 [HLS] ffmpeg: file262-ip192.x.x.x:  Error while processing the decoded data for stream #0:0

With the firmware dated 2023-01-11. Other firmware, doesn’t even get that far, just says starting encoding forever. I assume vl805-000138c0.bin is the same date.

You can’t update vl805 with rpi-eeprom-update -u vl805-000138c0.bin, it says “strings: ‘’: No such file /usr/bin/rpi-eeprom-update: 178: [: Illegal number: “.

If you run strings vl805-000138c0.bin | grep BUILD_TIMESTAMP | sed ’s/.*=//g’, no output. So no BUILD_TIMESTAMP in the file, nice.

Here is one method for upgrading.

But using -f might do it too.

Don’t bother searching DuckDuckGo, it’s mostly useless.

You can find firmware here.

That’s using the latest stable Channels DVR, and the latest beta, at least since I last checked.

Now where is my Sega Genesis Mini backup? I want to switch to Hakchi2-CE. I have to use a shitty Windows VM, because USB apparently doesn’t work with mono, and the internet won’t tell me how to fix it. In fact, it finds nothing. If you know the device path, you can check permissions, but trying to figure out that, without the internet telling me anything, is too much work.

Funny it doesn’t support Linux, when it’s messing with Linux. Makes no sense.

And 000138a1 might just do the starting encoder forever thing.

Channels DVR should tell you what firmware works, as I’m paying $8 a month for it.

Maybe pieeprom-2022-11-25.bin will work. It works without the new transcoding though, with probably almost any version.

So the new default transcoding, doesn’t work, nice. Can anything else record TV Everywhere? As I see no benefit in paying $8 a month for this, when it doesn’t fully work. I’m not using their image, I want other stuff on my Pi.

And I think I found the backup for my Sega crap. Luckily, I was smart, and put it somewhere other then in a NTFS partition, so I don’t have to mount the backup of a drive. Which isn’t very big, so might not be on it. Well, the backup drive may have been NTFS at some point, I obviously changed it.

I’ll try restoring with Hakchi2-CE, since Project Lunar sucks. Don’t know where to put the backup file, and Windows can’t find any other folders for Project Lunar. Nope, can’t use Hakchi2-CE, hold shift down when clicking the Install/Uninstall button, like somebody says. Maybe it will ask me where the backup is, or give me an error, where it’s looking.

11-25-2022 doesn’t work either. I think you have to try every version. So three years ago? There’s only three vl805.bin* files in the stable folder.

Project Lunar tells you the folder to extract backup to, not sure it actually worked though. You need hidden files/folders enabled to get to the folder.

Hakchi2-CE should be installed now, had to restore the backup again, as Project Lunar is buggy Windows crap.

Surprised there’s no bash script to do whatever it does. Or perhaps there is, nobody links to it though, when asking about Hakchi2-CE in Linux.

Finally got 000137ad installed, used the oldest pieeprom from three years ago. pieeprom-2020-04-16.bin. The vl805 files are useless, it’s using the one it flashes to the bootloader. No idea how to flash the vl805 crap directly, so vcgencmd version will always be wrong now. And that hangs too, I think everything hangs if you update with rpi-eeprom-update. Need to check the boot partition, to see what it’s actually doing. After running it.

Need a USB drive for the Sega, so I can put way more games on it. I’ll see if SEGA CD works on it, probably not very well. Only one of those games fit on it. Not much else can fit on it now.

Just as I thought, no vl805.bin in the boot folder, after running rpi-eeprom-update -d -f. I should see what the folder looks like after running -u instead though. I just manually copied the right one, after doing that. Not sure why you need to, according to vcgencmd it ain’t doing anything.

2023/06/23 23:20:46.746768 [HLS] ffmpeg: file262-ip192.x.x.x:  Error while filtering: Invalid request descriptor
2023/06/23 23:20:46.746894 [HLS] ffmpeg: file262-ip192.x.x.x:  Failed to inject frame into filter network: Invalid request descriptor
2023/06/23 23:20:46.746908 [HLS] ffmpeg: file262-ip192.x.x.x:  Error while processing the decoded data for stream #0:0

With the other firmware now. There’s no help for those errors, so good luck. Well, no help on Channels DVR forum.

The real problem might be, the ancient ffmpeg it ships with.

I guess I have to compile a static build. Well, it’s compiling, no idea if it’ll work.

Don’t use a Samba share, at least not in macOS.

You can find the script here, and my HandBrake preset file, but it might only allow up to 1080p, so if recording 4k OTA, you’ll want to change that. No 4k OTA where I live, so no need for me to change it. TV Everywhere isn’t 4k either.

Just pass the folder with videos to it, you could modify it to do sub folders if you wanted to. But I have lots of recordings, so probably not a great idea.

If not using macOS, you can make your own preset, or modify mine, and use the script too.

If not using it for Channels DVR, you might want to remove the ln -s stuff. You could also change it to delete the mpg file, but I think I’ll check quality first, and then run *rm .mpg.bak in the folder.

A 64bit kernel ain’t good enough, was having issues with Channels DVR and hardware transcoding. But debugging it with 32bit user land is too much work.

So I put Armbian on it. And AdGuard Home refused to work right with the old config, I couldn’t resolve anything, but could connect to the interface. Just move the config, run as root, and copy anything you need into the new config.

Too lazy to try and figure out what’s different between the two. Also installed the wrong version of AdGuard Home, probably a beta version or something, maybe a really old version, no idea. But the newest stable version didn’t work either.

Haven’t reinstalled Channels DVR yet, it’s installing a bunch of stuff from the txt file I made from Raspberry Pi OS.

You have to reinstall to get 64bit user land apparently. And I don’t want to reinstall Raspberry Pi OS, might as well switch the distro if I’m doing that.

Transcoding my recordings on Channels DVR to H265, removing the commercials would make it even smaller though, but I’m lazy. Found a script to convert using HandBrakeCLI, using it on Mac mini, since it has better video encoding. Just making a symlink from the old file to the mkv. If I used software transcoding on Channels DVR it worked, when playing in a browser.

Using Channels DVR on iPhone, worked, probably wasn’t even transcoding. I don’t want a half working Channels DVR, so I switched the distro.

I could have tried Podman, perhaps it would be 64bit user land.

Running ffmpeg-dl actually does something now, missing a library it looks like.

Looks like trying to install everything from that text file is going to take forever, couldn’t use the command that makes it one command, as some packages aren’t available. And I don’t want to remove all those from the file. So using a while loop. I’d give you the command, but it’s still running, and no longer in clipboard history, and site with command not opened anymore.

Maybe hardware transcoding doesn’t work at all in Armbian. No idea, still waiting for a shitload of stuff to install. Reinstalling Channels DVR might be a bad idea to do currently, if it runs apt.

The script for transcoding hasn’t been tested yet. The command for HandBrakeCLI works though. I’m going to need to reboot the Raspberry Pi, so no point in testing it yet.

And the Samhung micro SD card is slow, when flashing the img, it was under 10 MB/s. But the read speed is around 90 MB/s. Is the write speed supposed to be so slow? Perhaps just flashing is that slow. Some people might use these cards for video. I do on my security cameras, they work fine.

To reinstall packages from a txt file, use while read line; do sudo apt install -y $line; done < packages_list.txt, I forgot the command I used to make the txt file. If you make it one command, and there’s one or more “Unable to locate package” errors, it won’t install shit.

To reinstall Channels DVR, just run install.sh in the Channels DVR folder. It’ll get the service back, and you’ll be good to go. And hardware transcoding still doesn’t work. Bummer. Rebooting the Pi though. Then I’ll try running the ffmpeg-dl file again.

Just says starting, forever. Can it not use hardware transcoding for H265 to H264? The encoding part, is using H264, and it should support hardware decoding of H265. Not that the ffmpeg provided supports it.

And ffmpeg-dl is useless, not a downloader, just for something else. Dynamic linking. Now how long does it take to start encoding with hardware encoding? Hardware should be fast, not take ages.

Enable “Old Streaming System” and it works, but is hardware transcoding actually being used? Around 70% CPU I think. I think for encoding it is, would be better if it decoded with hardware too. Either way, it works better then software, with the new streaming system. And you have to enable that every time the server restarts. Didn’t try software encoding in Armbian, so perhaps everything 64bit helped.

Bad script, means I have to remake the symlinks, and re transcode one file. It doesn’t currently delete anything, just moves original file to .bak. Well, the backup server, probably has the file. But need to make sure the script works, before doing any other folders. It doesn’t do sub folders. Need to make sure the script isn’t going to transcode again, so I can just run it, and only do new files.

Symlinks probably don’t work, because it used the full path. That might work on the Mac, but not anything else.

And symlinks fixed, the actual script might be right, transcoding the last file in that folder.

Oh that’s why symlinks don’t work, macOS is using Samba, guess it doesn’t support NFS, no idea how to make that work with the latest macOS. Now to see if I can enable symlink following in Samba.

And you most likely have to get NFS working somehow, might simply not be possible. Thanks Apple.

And NFS is easy, follow instructions here. But use vifs. Nice, might not need Samba crap now.

xxxx:/mnt/nfs   /private/nas      nfs     resvport,rw,timeo=14,intr

Can’t create folders though. Files probably don’t work either. Wrong UID on folder.

Pretty sure I tried getting NFS working before, but couldn’t. Perhaps I wasn’t using vifs.

I think I just need to add the pi user to the Mac. Rebooting, added the group, but deleted the user. Even with 777 permissions, my user can’t delete anything. If I add the user, need a system user, not a regular user.

Maybe this is the problem I had with macOS, couldn’t write to the share. I think the problem is, it’s mounting in /private. But I need it in my user folder. Use “vers=4,noowners” and put in the user folder, and hope for the best.

And macOS is a dick, it mounts it if you unmount it, so don’t run rm -fr to get rid of folder. Now to figure out what I’m missing.

Wonder how far I got last time, trying to get it to work. But still doesn’t work, even in my Users folder.

Got it to work, you need “all_squash” on the server. But how does Linux work without that? Oh right, my UID/GID is the same.

sudo vifs
xxx:/mnt/nfs   /Users/thomasvanvalkinburgh/nas      nfs     vers=4,noowners,resvport,rw,timeo=14,intr
/etc/exports
/mnt/nfs        xxxx/24(rw,sync,anonuid=1000,anongid=1000,no_subtree_check,all_squash)

Linux still works, even with that changed.

And having to copy everything back, is going to make a mess, because it’s copying the mpg files, that are already there, just .bak. And I get to remake symlinks.

With the script to make the transcodings, you can delete the mpg, and rename the mkv to to .mpg. But if you use a symlink, you can store the file anywhere on the drive.

And is around 20 FPS good? Well, I think it’s running crappy because of rsync. If you stream a video that needs encoding in the browser right now, it will buffer. Just making sure it works.

If it uses hardware decoding, it might do better, well not when the drive is running rsync.

And I guess no transcoding until tomorrow, rsync still not done. I shouldn’t have ran rm -fr after a bad rsync command. It put the folder inside the folder, which actually is a folder with stuff, so files in the wrong place. But I could have just ran –delete on my desktop, and it would delete the extra crap for me.

Probably low FPS saving to a bogged down drive.

Instead of waiting for your number to port to them, email support. They have to enable SMS for it to work. Said it should work once the number ports over too, I shouldn’t need to contact about that again.

Looks like a week to port from magicJack. And don’t believe the FAQ on magicJack’s site, they seem to say you only need a PIN if the new provider requires one. Well, they rejected the port, for no PIN. After setting a PIN, in the most crappy way possible, they accepted the port.

And almost impossible to use a mouse with a brace. At least it’ll prevent any worse carpal tunnel, maybe. The middle mouse button isn’t easy to use now. My fingers aren’t long enough. Maybe not almost impossible. But the middle mouse button almost not usable.

Removing the wrist rest, doesn’t make it easier to use. It’s a mouse pad with wrist rest. I just moved that mouse pad, it’s on another one. Put it back though.

The brace is nice and comfy though. Apparently it isn’t supposed to be tight, or not too tight.

Only got one, for my right hand. Left hand isn’t as affected, if at all. Can I use Allen wrenches with this brace? Not sure why I need the medicine. If I don’t use Allen wrenches, or do anything to make it hurt, I won’t be using it. Says as needed, but I think only two times.

Do they make a smaller brace?

I sent a picture from my cell plan to my current 1-VoIP number. It showed up eventually. Might take a little longer, if there’s a picture. The text I sent to magicJack didn’t take as long.

Can I verify the number with Walmart once it’s ported? If I pay $3 more a month, I can keep the number I got when signing up too. Perhaps I will, use it if I have to get a neighbor’s number, in case I get locked out. The only way inside if the power goes out, is a neighbor. And if everybody ends up with that number in the building, you can change it.

And you can fix the brace, by moving it up. Unstrap it, and put thumb farther through the hole. And you can use the mouse easier.

Maybe I can play computer games without breaks now. Not that I took many before.

Is the brace supposed to be tight or somewhat loose? Cause my finger was starting to hurt, like when using Allen wrenches. I loosened it, but now it might be too loose.

Snug but not tight. What is snug? The meaning is different for everybody. So loose is snug? I suppose.

Well, no arthritis, she checked, and saw no signs. And not very bad carpal tunnel syndrome, the muscle by thumb, would be flat, if it was really bad. One of the things she had me do, may have triggered pain though, in one finger, can’t recall which finger. Was it a carpal tunnel finger? Or the other nerve or whatever? No idea. She was explaining, but I already forgot what finger I pointed at.

So I’m guessing there’s no VoIP apps that support watchOS CallKit.

And if you don’t use the official app for your VoIP provider, if there is one, push notifications will send your login info to whoever makes the app. So you better trust them.

Well, that sucks. At least picture messaging might be supported with 1-VoIP, if the number ports, and my account gets activated.