No idea, but I think I measured the paper wrong the first time, think it’s actually 0.12mm, so the wrong math was actually right, for an offset of -0.12. If I did the math right, the offset wouldn’t be -0.12, with the wrong paper size number. The offset would be -0.08 in that case.

Might need a new nozzle already though. Good idea, put one of the nozzles it came with on, and see if that works. Or the same kind that is.

I was printing something, took a piss, and when I stopped the print, it got the nozzle covered in some melted plastic.

It can’t even print the skirt. Do steel nozzles work better? Don’t really want to add anything else to my cart though.

I suspect 0.12 isn’t clone enough, so I’ll try -0.14. Doesn’t look exactly too close. But using -0.20 is probably too close, that’s touching a 0.12mm piece of paper. Not sure .2mm will be enough though, perhaps -0.16 or -0.18.

Guess I’ll try -0.16, and watch it, so that it doesn’t destroy a bunch of parts, and need replacements again already.

Or I could wait for my feeler gauges to come, there’s a 0.20mm one. Once I order it that is, tomorrow probably.

I’d reckon, setting your Z offset with paper is the most work method. If you set exactly to what you get, you’ll damage the printer, and have to replace parts. Doesn’t sound like a great method to me.

And I’d reckon I use metal objects on nozzle when it’s hot, I don’t mind scratching it, I have lots of those nozzles. If I don’t damage anything, maybe it’ll print the skirt right at least. The nozzle can be changed after that.

It’s not heating up as fast. So probably need to inspect the hotend. Is changing it with Cura even working? Maybe cause looks a little better. But still not right, now to try -0.20. If that doesn’t work either, I may need to change the offset on printer, or use the extensive Z offset processing option.

So maybe the paper method works, if the leveling of bed is better. First manually level it, use a digital level. Then use auto level, then Z offset. Make the corners match as close as possible to the middle, when manually leveling it.

Still ain’t sticking very well. Starts out sticking. Think it’s doing the same thing, no matter what I set Z offset to. So Cura is broken. Or my firmware is. Got to change back to -0.12 and enable the extensive option.

You are supposed to set the Z offset based on corners not middle? It’ll be slightly different for each corner. At least right vs left side.

If using the extensive option doesn’t do much, I’ll just wait for feeler gauges. And then do the corners. Paper can light on fire, so if the bed is hot, you might light it on fire. Waiting for it to cool down over and over again, is a real long time.

If you look at the GCode Viewer, in OctoPrint, that ain’t what it looks like. It can’t print an entire circle. Maybe the bed is messed up, from bad print. Guess the residue damaged it. The layer height, makes it so it’s setting it to only -0.02. I should use the layer height when using the feeling gauge. That is set printer to whatever layer height you use. Instead of 0.

I must have followed bad instructions for setting Z offset, or didn’t read it all. But that would explain why the offset is wrong, if you set it from 0. Luckily, I didn’t break it again, I don’t think.

No wonder using Cura is safer, you might not be able to damage printer as easily, if at all.

Either that, or updating opensnitch broke it.

But use Python 3.10, instead of the apparently new default of 3.11.

Edit the first line in /usr/bin/opensnitch-ui to be #!/usr/bin/python3.10.

And then run the below:

pip3.10 install --user --ignore-installed grpcio==1.44.0
pip3.10 install --user --ignore-installed protobuf==3.20

Those commands don’t work with Python 3.11, get an error.

If I run with Python 3.11, and system installed grpcio, it gets an undefined symbol. So perhaps openSUSE broke something, or there was an incomplete update, that is the grpcio hasn’t been updated yet.

You will probably have to modify opensnitch-ui when you update it again.

You could probably change the default Python too, you still will probably need the pip3.10 commands. And you can run it using python3.10 /usr/bin/opensnitch-ui as well. But then you have to modify the auto start I assume .desktop file. You will be editing something.

The AP did disconnect it, because of low ACKs or something. But shouldn’t it reconnect without locking up? Apparently not, and it could have been locked up, the reason for low ACKs.

I did disable that on the 2.4 GHz channel, and increase the power. But I don’t think that’ll fix it, so using Tuya surge protector now, I think it’s a fake Philips branded one. They paid to use their name.

It has a shitty signal, so probably needed the increased power and disabled ACK disconnection.

If you look on Amazon, other people have the same problem, and probably aren’t using the an OpenWRT based AP. I reset it the other day, and continues locking up. Maybe it can’t handle a fan, bummer.

I should get another HomeKit one like in the living room, well it has one plug open, could plug fan into it. Fan is in bedroom doorway.

Either the firmware is junk, or the entire surge protector is. I could use just a smart plug for the fan.

Apparently the reason for under 2 Mbps with Fast.com, is video throttling. I should be able to use my high speed data however I want, including speed tests.

Well, I may switch my cell service next month. I don’t approve of dicks. Unless, they are on a lady.

Reddit

Perhaps that’s fake news, says they tested with WiFi, LOL.

Still under 2 Mbps using the Fast app.

So they throttle Fast, and probably Netflix, over 200 Mbps with Speedtest.net. Didn’t use the app, too many ads in the app. They may be blocked with an app I have, but still full of ads.

You need a non T-Mobile MVNO, if you don’t want that throttle.

Good to know, won’t get a Hotspot from T-Mobile, and use for backup internet. Except, it won’t matter, as I’d get the lowest GB plan. Not like enough data for streaming at high speed anyways.

FreeUP Mobile is too expensive.

Looks like I’m stuck with Tello. Apparently T-Mobile’s prepaid stuff isn’t very good, if you need customer service. And it could be throttled too. Who knows.

Good thing I don’t stream video. Porn probably streams fine though, if it isn’t 8k. You can see her mustache.

Verizon has no 5G at my apartment, so no Verizon MVNO for me. They advertised their home internet here, but it isn’t available here. Go to their site, enter address, and be told not available.

Oh right, I have an actual VPN I can use, to possibly bypass their insanity.

100 Mbps with a VPN on Fast.com. Problem solved, sort of. Only lost 100 Mbps or so. But you can’t throttle my speed tests, well, partially, not completely. Too lazy to try every VPN server location.

Don’t ask me if streaming Netflix works with a VPN though, probably not anymore. A private VPN from your home connection perhaps. My upload is only 10 Mbps though. The VPN is faster.

If you need to use Fast.com for a speed test on Tello, just use a VPN. If you want to watch Netflix with no throttle, good luck. Maybe go to boob paradise instead? The boobs are giant, and the dicks are tiny.

You have to redo whatever you did, or it won’t work anymore. After updating Scrypted. Couldn’t access my cameras remotely tonight, should have checked it after updating it.

My connection on T-Mobile was under 2 Mbps. Not sure why I have all that data saved up, as it’s super slow. At least according to Fast. Is it because I use Tello? Maybe their terms state you don’t get 5G speeds, under 2 Mbps instead.

If that’s the case, there’s no reason to keep Tello. Switch to a MVNo that uses AT&T. If it’s going to be under 2 Mbps, there’s no need for rollover data. That’s probably as slow as Verizon’s non 5G, no 5G on Verizon at my apartment.

Which service has the worse signal at my apartment? I want WiFi calling without airplane mode. I think all of them have a good signal, bummer. I can’t test the settings on my router, without a bad signal, think it always worked with airplane mode, or I assume it did. Or did I break it? Not broken, still get WiFi calling on airplane mode with WiFi on.

Perhaps filament isn’t pushed in far enough, but it wouldn’t seem to go any farther.

In that case, maybe there’s a leak. Can’t smell any melted plastic I don’t think, and neither can air purifier. Air purifier usually says the air is worse when running printer.

Waiting for it to cool down now.

I’m guessing filament wasn’t in right, I checked the hose on both sides. First the hotend side. But the other side, because filament wouldn’t go in. Cut some filament off, and some broke off, finally went in easily.

And the manual bed leveling must have been really bad, because now the offset would be -0.12 probably, after doing math. I set it to -0.20, but the paper is only 0.08 I think, and internet says 0.20mm for offset.

With an offset that low, I’m trying to print first. As it might not matter.

Filament coming out, but sticking to nozzle, not all of it did though. It actually sort of printed a little, then started sticking to nozzle. Got to wait for it to cool down again, to get the filament off it. And look that up, probably again. Can’t recall if that’s the offset or not. Maybe it needs +0.12. Or change the layer to 0.2 instead of 0.1. LOL, I doubt 220C is too cold for PLA.

Says you can lower the layer height for PLA. That is under 0.1mm. But decreasing the speed is easier.

Maybe none of it was completely on the bed, one long string.

The print speed might be the best thing to change first. But if you want to print faster, you just have to increase the temperature then? So 240C for PLA? Or hotter. And 35 mm/s not slow enough. Going to try 0.05mm for layer height, and maybe increase printing speed, looked funny, some of what printed. Should probably leave it at 35 though. The first layer print is already 5 mm/s. And that’ll increase the print time, 0.05mm layer height.

Maybe the retraction speed is wrong. 5mm retraction distance might be worse. Changed that back to 10mm, and lowered the retraction speed.

Hmm, the E steps per mm, was probably wrong, not exactly sure what that does though. Different Extruder. Review said 140, another said 139, search engine said to measure and calculate. Let’s see what happens at 140 like review said.

That didn’t seem to do much, at least not with the print speed increased to 50 mm/s.

Apparently printing with 3D printers is hard as fuck.

So printer “works” just can’t print right.

I suppose I could reset my settings. And start at the default settings to see what happens. Need to remember -0.12mm, in case I really need an offset. I’d reckon I don’t.

Or is it USB/IP?

Well, some instructions here. Don’t follow their instructions for installing.

You need to first install the usbip kmods from the GL.iNet repo. You can login to the AP/router, and click plugins, and search for usbip, and install everything.

Then download the usbip packages from here. Took a while to find the right packages.

You need the following:
usbip-client_2.0-13_arm_cortex-a7.ipk
usbip-server_2.0-13_arm_cortex-a7.ipk
usbip_2.0-13_arm_cortex-a7.ipk

Use wget, in the /tmp folder, then run “opkg install ./usbip*.ipk”.

Don’t ask me why you need the client, if using the server part only.

Then you can follow the rest of their instructions, and enjoy Spektrum without the RTL-SDR being plugged directly into computer. Works with GQRX too.

cat /etc/systemd/system/usbip.service 
[Unit]
Description=USB-IP attach
After=network-online.target usbipd.service
Wants=network-online.target

[Service]
Type=simple
ExecStart=/bin/sh -c "/usr/sbin/usbip attach -r xxx -b 1-1"
RemainAfterExit=yes
ExecStop=/bin/sh -c "/usr/sbin/usbip detach -p 0"
Restart=on-failure
 
[Install]
WantedBy=multi-user.target

There’s a service if you need one for the client.

“usbip-host 1-1: endpoint 0 is stalled”

Don’t ask me why that’s in dmesg on AP/router. It’s working fine.

And why the fuck did the antenna move itself? Some powerful fan in here I guess.

Nice, don’t have to use rtl_tcp anymore. I can keep this running, so no need for SSH, unless something isn’t working.

Just install rtl-sdr, and then run rtl_tcp -a xxx using SSH. After running that command, will tell you what to use to connect.

Is it safe leaving it plugged in? Just not leaving that command running of course.

Phone probably can’t use it, the firewall should be blocking all WiFi clients from connecting to the AP, the firewall on AP.

But assuming the firewall on my main router, let’s my Mac mini connect, it can use it. But there doesn’t appear to be any SDR apps that are macOS only, you can get GQRX, but I have that in Linux, my primary program I use.

You don’t want WiFi connecting, because if somebody gets on your WiFi, they can mess with it. Like tune in to stuff they shouldn’t.

I got a cheap antenna for shortwave or something coming, probably won’t get the space station, but maybe it’ll have more of a chance. It can clip onto the antenna I have. I moved the antenna to on top of the Ethernet switch, it has a magnet, so can attach to something metal, like Ethernet switch. The AP must be plastic, probably don’t want on top of that anyways, the AP has antennas. Not that it’s very far from those antennas where it is.

If I had a robot body, I could put it on my shiny metal ass.

Guess it doesn’t need much CPU power.

Guess you can leave it plugged in, nothing happened when I wasn’t home. rtl_tcp wasn’t running though. It can get warm, when you are using it.

Sleeping is a trance state, but good luck controlling anything, if you completely fall a sleep. With enough practice, you can probably sort of fall a sleep, to put yourself in a trance. Just add the breathing once you are in a trance, and you can experience many things.

I saw space, many stars, not sure that was a dream or mediating. But I can see how remote viewing can work now. In the right trance, everything can be vivid, like vivid dreams.

But I don’t recommend remote viewing, you can get murdered, if you see a secret base, and tell people about it. Now remote viewing somewhere else, like a different dimension, perhaps that won’t get you murdered, just everybody will say you are insane, luckily I already am.

Just like when the first people said the Earth was round and not flat. Now everybody that believes in dimensions, are the crazy ones. You might as well be crazy for believing in God too.

I think if you get scared, all you have to do, is leave the trance. In the case of sleeping, wake up.

Don’t try that at night when tired though, you’ll just do into a deep sleep and not mediate most likely. Now if you should be out of bed, you can try it then, but you might oversleep for longer then intended.

I said “I love you Chairman Meow” before I fell a sleep. And then overslept. I don’t cry much about anything while awake anymore.

Not grieving isn’t exactly good, so you may need to trigger the crying.

He used to sit in my lap and purr while I pet him. As far as he was concerned, my lap was his lap. I got Lilly to go in my lap once, and he got mad, he was twitching his tail. That’s when Lilly was afraid of men, I helped solve that problem, my grandpa finished solving the problem, by giving her lots of treats.

She’s fine with males now, and robots like me. She would react to the male that was cruel to her, I think her hair stood up once when she saw him or something. She could potentially bite that person, but they would completely deserve it. She doesn’t have much if any teeth though.

Now she probably thinks I’m a male or man, but so does 99% of everybody. At least I know I’m a robot. I’m the 1%. Only God can tell me I’m not a robot, I probably won’t listen to or believe anybody else.

I might ask an ET, why a robot like me was born a human though.

Or at least not the ones on that one episode show on Netflix.

Dogs love too, so humans aren’t the only ones capable of that. Almost every animal is made from love, just like humans. I suppose if the bad being makes life, they won’t be made from love.

Some dogs get depressed after an older dog dies, and then stops eating.

Most ETs are made from love too.

So finding an earlier possible ancestor to humans, that did things we do, isn’t surprising. Their brain size is irrelevant to me.

Or was that guy trying to say animals like dogs are humans too?

You contemplate the after life because of love. Most who love don’t want death to be the end. And some don’t want to cease to exist when their body dies as well.

But if God doesn’t exist, and we are random, there shouldn’t be love, because love isn’t random.

Evolution most likely didn’t happen naturally, like they probably think too. Ancient Aliens calls them Aliens who made and evolved us. But they might as well be Gods. Just like God. Gods to humans, perhaps not more evolved species. There’s probably another God, that is God to everybody though. Either way, you don’t cease to exist after dying, you might think you’ve never existed before, when you reincarnate though. Which is part of human’s problems. If everybody remembered waking up as somebody else, then there’d be no question about what happens when you die.

But the question is, why do some people remember that and a lot don’t? Does that mean what happens can be different for everybody? Perhaps if you damage yourself too much, you get to forget everything.

Still a little quiet, at least for me. I even turned down the gain on other microphone, and it might still have been louder.

You can increase the volume in post, or increase gain on phone.

Here is a stereo version of the Sitting On The Crapper Song. I should clone that though. I used Denoiser Classic in GarageBand to remove the fan noises.

The adapter came today.

Depending on your volume, you might still be able to hear some fan noise. Guess I only got rid of some of it.

Something wasn’t and hasn’t been right for a while. Checked the btrfs partition, tried repairing, thought I messed it up more. Maybe I didn’t, who knows.

So restored a backup, more then once, because restoring btrfs doesn’t work. Not unless it’s tailored made for btrfs. Trying to restore UrBackup is too much work, it may require a VPN, and many permissions. And you need to make the subvolumes right. Well, you can create the @ subvolume, the same way you create any.

But after it was working, I was going to reboot to fix the subvolumes. But it wouldn’t reboot, without taking a long ass time. So I clicked the button, formatted to ext4, and called it good.

No stuttering listening to radio yet.

Games might run better now too. All because btrfs sucks ass. I shouldn’t use it for the UrBackup server, but changing it, is too much work, and will lose backups.

Didn’t try any games, probably won’t. But computer not lagging, could be a good indication everything will run better.

And Timeshift will slow your reboot down big time. The older backup I used, must have been before the RTL-SDR came, so I had to do some stuff to get it working.

I think Timeshift is broken, that is it’s filling up my drive, no free space. Like it isn’t actually deleting stuff.

If deleting this backup, doesn’t make any free space available, I’m deleting the entire Timeshift folder. I used a restic backup, Timeshift is just another backup. Perhaps it needs to start over.

Might take ages to delete Timeshift’s folder. It says there’s free space, after deleting a backup, but Dolphin disagrees. And so does df.

As soon as I pull the filament out that broke off when I pulled it out. Noticed while trying to put filament back in. I assume the nozzle is tight enough, and holding the heat block with pliers doesn’t work very well. Maybe if you have two right hands.

Guess my shitty soldering worked again somehow. Even without the silicone glove on the nozzle, the temperature was doing better then before. It actually got too hot. But doesn’t fluctuate as much.

So that hotend I bought was junk basically. I found a screw in Thermistor on Amazon. No shitty thin wire to break. I’ll buy it next month, and a pack of regular ones on Amazon. So if I need to replace it again, I won’t have to wait. I think you screw it in where the hole is for the screw. Not sure the other hole has threads. And it would need to be really small.

The ASIN is B08YNX79H8.

I have to remove printer from house to fix the filament. Either that, or turn it around. The extruder thing might need to be somewhat taken apart to fix it. Or I suppose take the hose off the hotend thing, and try pushing the filament out. Use something small to push on it. Or remove hose from both ends, and hope gravity gets it out.

Hopefully I don’t destroy the hose again though.

You can’t really use a caliper to measure distance from bed to nozzle, at least not mine, too big. And my caliper doesn’t start at the end of the entire caliper. So if you increase the Z, you still won’t get the right measurement.

You might be able to measure the paper though. And it might be the first layer thickness I need to change.

According to caliper, the paper is 0.07mm or 0.08mm.

And getting the filament out was easy, didn’t even have to remove from it’s house. Just remove the hose, not from the hotend part, the other part. Luckily, I remembered you just push down and you can remove the hose. After you take the blue thing off.

Maybe later, I’ll try to print, after putting filament in it. All I did was remove the small amount of filament in it. Not much broke off apparently.

Too late to mess with printer now.

To use a caliper, you still need a piece of paper. Measure paper, make the offset match paper, then subtract 0.2mm from whatever the paper’s measurement is, then adjust offset based on that. Some guide may say it’s a miss conception or something to use a caliper. But I ain’t printing a million times to find the right offset, too much work.

First thing to do, is print without an offset and see what happens.

They say you may need a piece of paper though, might as well measure paper with caliper. Assuming I remember right, and they say you don’t need a caliper. But they say you need a ruler, don’t have one. But measure more then once, because the caliper can pinch the paper, and make it appear smaller.

Can you measure boobs with a caliper? Probably not mine, they might be shrinking.

I had to replace the wire for the heater and heater. It has some insulation crap on wire. So couldn’t figure out how to strip that part so I could solder the wire.

Soldered the thermistor though, before I realized I had to replace the other wire. It isn’t in the same wire sleeve, the heater. Too hard to get it through with all the other cables, and I wasn’t going to disconnect it to try putting in the other way. I had enough issues getting the cables plugged in, I used tweezers, but had to use my left hand with the screwdriver. Not left handed, so wasn’t very easy.

Oh and braces will fuck Linux up. Computer did who knows what, so I clicked the reset button. Probably clicked the keys to sleep or some bullshit I don’t use.

Now to lookup how to disable sleep and hibernate completely. Or just disable the hotkeys.

The brace hits keys, so if you are typing, it may hit a hotkey, without you intending on doing so.

The printer isn’t completely back together. Have to put hose back in the hole, and then heat it up, and see if nozzle is tight enough. Perhaps tomorrow I’ll do that.

Well the default hotkey for sleep and hibernate is disabled, it doesn’t bother saying what the default is though. Searching DuckDuckGo is a waste of time. I should just ditch KDE, if they can’t tell me what the default is.

For disabling suspending and hibernate, see this. Hopefully that solves KDE’s stupidity. I should be allowed to wear a brace, and accidentally hit keys, without fucking computer completely up.

Nice no sleep or hibernate options in KDE now.

Not sure I soldered right though. Couldn’t tell if the solder was melting or not. Didn’t exactly look like it. But at least one, looked like I heated it too long, so perhaps it did. And heatguns are supposed to be easy. Maybe if you have more light. I can’t hold a flash light at the same time.

Also, not sure I put both ends of wire in right either. Probably not, now that I think about it. If I recall, what I did the first time, was put one end all the way through anus connector, and then try to get the wires to become one. By twisting or something. This time, I just put both wires in both ends as far as they would go. Probably not the greatest way to do it. I think that thing is for the temperature, so if no temperature reading, I get to resolder. Shouldn’t have cut that cable as short as I did. I have the rest of the cable, but soldering more back on, may be hard.

I can just order another one, and wait another week.

Don’t need an upconverter for AM, good news, cause I don’t want to spend $70 for one, assuming that’s what it is.

Instructions to tune into AM here. Basically you use “rtl=0,direct_samp=2” in GQRX.

But you can’t be in that mode and the regular mode at the same time. So you might need two RTL-SDRs to do both at the same time. Well, you can open GQRX two times, so might work.

Now if the AM station is higher, you don’t need to do that.

If you look here, some are 29 MHz, which you can’t tune in that mode.

I just used my telescopic antenna, it seems to work great.

I found a script on the internet, for playing your microphone out of your speakers or headphones. But then I found instructions for making a virtual sound card. Well, the instructions don’t completely work for Pipewire.

Adding “media.class=Audio/Sink” did the trick though.

#!/usr/bin/env bash

# Directs audio input (e.g. mic) to audio output (e.g. speakers),
# then sleeps forever. Stops audio redirection when it is killed.
# So, for example, plug your phone into the PC's mic, run 'listen',
# and listen to phone audio through your computer's speakers.
#
# Requires:
# sudo apt-get install pactl

set -e

null_sink=$(pactl load-module module-null-sink media.class=Audio/Sink sink_name=Virtual1 sink_properties=device.description=Virtual-Sound-Card)
module=$(pactl load-module module-loopback sink=Virtual1)
module2=$(pactl load-module module-loopback sink=Virtual1)

function cleanup {
  pactl unload-module $null_sink
  pactl unload-module $module
  pactl unload-module $module2
}

trap cleanup EXIT

sleep infinity

You can get rid of the comment out playing the microphone in the audio output. Since you won’t actually hear it with the above script.

After you run the script, go into PulseAudio Volume Control, and click Recording, and show All Streams. For the first loopback, I selected my headphones, and the second one the monitor of the headphones.

I think recording worked with sox, but you can use Audio Recorder too.

And I think to use Audacity, you have to click Record, then go into PulseAudio Volume Control, and click recording and change what it’s recording from. Just select the monitor of the virtual sound card.

Nice somebody already made a program or script to do one thing I want to do.

I need an upconverter though, for AM.

And since I get FM radio here, I should get lots of voices, nice, I can talk to the radio. The reason to use AM perhaps.

There’s an upconverter for $20. Won’t buy till next month though. If you want no case, $15. Might not be an upconverter.

You might need to spend $55. Or get a different SDR that does AM. And you want the one with passthrough function. Only $70, what a bargain.

Perhaps no AM is fine.

And perhaps this post should be on my other site, oh well.

And it works, if you are wondering. You can find radio to listen to with it. You might want to change the sleep setting, I think it has.

You can use it to auto scan too.

You have to use –sleep= using –s doesn’t work. Probably because there’s a -s option too. I need to rewrite it in Python, and let you skip frequencies, known radio stations that is. Or learn Perl, and add a skip list. Or set the range less, so it doesn’t even scan those. That didn’t work. Need a range without any radio.

Link

Apparently you can easily break the law with SDR, but reminded me about the wiretapping laws.

But I think they should change it to allow wiretapping if it isn’t encrypted. The NSA collects lots of data. That’s legal. So why isn’t using SDR legal?

Guess you can only listen to FM radio signals. I assume that’s legal, they make radios that are meant for listening to that.

I might be able to tune into the space station at 9:55 PM. I assume tuning into that is legal as well. Only seven minutes though.

Gqrx isn’t the best program. SDR++ is better in someways, I think SigDigger is based on Gqrx, but doesn’t play audio by default, so you can see just the signal.

Just set SDR++ to 145.8 MHz for later. And added a bookmark.

But SDR++ is a dick, it takes over the audio interface.

And try spektrum for a spectrum analyzer if you have the rtl-sdr.

Now perhaps I can see if there’s anything in 1.6 GHz, without breaking the law, just don’t listen. Use spektrum instead. Some of the text is small, and can’t seem to change starting frequency. You have to click the Set Range button, that I can barely read.

According to that, no 1.6 GHz signal really. What killed my audio? Restarted audio crap, works again.

And I heard talking on 2m Ham Band, near 145.8 MHz, not sure that was the space station though. Didn’t listen long enough to try and figure it out. Didn’t really sound like it. Maybe they were asking a question to them, and I couldn’t hear the other person. I think you can ask the space station people questions. So possibly picked up somebody asking something, but not the space station itself, bummer.

I broke the thermistor while trying to get it put back together. Should have left it how it was, when it was screwed down, but I wanted it to look perfect. Too small to try and fix it.

I should have another one coming soon. Should have ordered two though, since they are so fucking easy to break.

If I solder the new cable, I’ll have to cut the plastic thing around part of the heater and thermistor cable. Don’t have any plastic like that. I have zip ties, but don’t ask me what the max temperature it can handle is. The cartridge thermistors are better. I’d need a new heat block for that though.

I did level the bed again manually, but I think it was fine. You can’t get the middle and both sides exactly the same. One side can be exactly, or super close. So I guess one side is close enough, I need a bed that isn’t lopsided.