I replaced the part with the other gear on it, and the gear that goes on motor, for the extruder. I just used the bottom piece that came with other extruder. I’m guessing, they are exactly the same.

Put filament back in as well. Maybe tomorrow I’ll try printing.

Gears move, so I assume it’s right. Move together that is.

Update
Not sure the motor was bad or not, still won’t print. Checked the E steps, and it was wrong. Must have reset it. Not digging other motor out of trash though. This motor might be better anyways, pretty sure it works, as it was moving the filament. Just nothing coming out yet. It’s heating up again now.

If it still won’t print, maybe there’s a clog in the tube. And I’ll just pay $15 for the direct drive bracket, which uses this extruder and motor.

Lost some filament, as I was trying to push it in more, while messing with it, it broke off. Had to rotate the printer to get the filament back in. I wonder if the hole is in a different spot on the bottom piece that came with new extruder. Cause it’s a real pain to get the filament in.

And it’s finally printing. Looks like the Z offset is right so far. Will it skip and miss part of the print if the E steps is wrong? It will stop printing completely, so probably.

I think the only thing I’m good at is setting the Z offset, but it took a long ass time to figure that out. Maybe not good at setting Z offset, doesn’t look very good so far. Perhaps the temperature isn’t right.

Going to wait for it to finish, so I can decide what to do. But it’s pretty close to the bed, the nozzle, so hard to believe the Z offset isn’t good enough.

The skirt circle looks perfect though. Or not, just part of it. Calibrating the E steps is too much work. Do you have to do so with direct drive? If not, that’s well worth $15. Looks like that might be too much work. Somebody said to calibrate the E steps, might as well keep what I have then.

And it might be looking better anyways.

Takes a long ass time to print a gunk stopper apparently, over an hour. Maybe two hours or more total.

I may have reset it, after it stopped printing. As it wouldn’t print at all, with the E step wrong now. It just stopped printing last time. So the motor is probably dead anyways.

Looks like a little over an hour to print. 18 minutes left.

It’s possible the first layer is worse as well. Is the nozzle too close? I doubt it. More like the temperature might be too low I guess.

Print Time: 00:54:54, didn’t even take an hour. Nice estimates.

Nothing on nozzle, so I’d reckon, the Z offset must be right. But the print isn’t very good at all. Warping possibly? Waiting for it to cool down before taking a picture and removing it.

Looks like stringing, as the center hole, should be a hole, nothing should be there. At least the nozzle is clean.

Photo of print.

Looking at reviews on a different ViewSonic, I was going to get a ViewSonic, not sure photos will look good, without messing with it. And no eye care on the IPS model I found that’s on my wishlist.

But is any cheaper monitor really going to be better then the one I have? A higher refresh rate, but the picture might look worse.

But the Sceptre has two DisplayPort ports. That is the main reason to get it. Reviews seem good for it, except it died after six months for one person, guess they didn’t ask for warranty service.

There might be some weird flickering with my Pixio. Not sure it has backlight bleed or what it is, you need the right color for it to show.

Maybe if I get a new one, I should keep this one for a while after, in case it looks way worse. Or dies. I have an old BenQ, I think it’s 1440p, but no FreeSync. I won’t part with that one. BenQ are the best monitors I’ve seen, the picture quality. Even cheap refurbished ones. But I only want IPS or VA, no TN or whatever. And BenQ is like $400 for a new one with FreeSync, or $319 refurbished. If I pay $319, perhaps I’ll never need a new monitor.

The Acer on my wishlist could work, if you get a good one. But I don’t want to return 4 or more times.

Is the Sceptre really an Acer? That is the same panel. If so, I guess it could work.

versus.com doesn’t have my Pixio. According to that site, the Sceptre is somehow better then ViewSonic. But it’s comparing specs. Not many reviews on the ViewSonic. Well, probably not on Sceptre either.

How many bits is this panel? As the Sceptre is 10. Probably the same, or less. Says ViewSonic is 8. So the Sceptre wins. It’s 10 bits, don’t get under 10 bits, that might mean Sceptre, no idea what Acer is. Is it true 10 bits? Cause mine is 8 bit + FRC.

The HDR might be semi useless on my Pixio.

But is Pixio really a great brand? Cause Sceptre isn’t. So going from one cheapo brand to another. According to that site, Acer is worse then Sceptre and ViewSonic. Good to know, cause I don’t want to send it back four times.

But they should compare the actual picture. And only the Sceptre is 10 bit, from the Acer Nitro XV272U V 27", Sceptre E275B-QPD168 27", and ViewSonic Omni VX2718-2KPC-MHD 27".

Not sure the ViewSonic is the exact same model, ViewSonic Omni VX2728J-2K according to Amazon, no PC-MHD. And the Acer is Acer Nitro XV272U Vbmiiprx on Amazon.

Rtings.com only has the Acer.

Says it has a one year warranty, so six months, I assume is covered. Need to find an adapter to plug Mac mini in by DisplayPort, think you use the Thunderbolt/USB C port. If it has to many bad pixels, send it back, I’ll use the Staples option, they pack and send it back. Cheaper to use HDMI, either a cable or adapter needed. I think I’ll just keep HDMI for the Mac mini. Until I decide to spend money on expensive adapter.

You can get the BenQ MOBIUZ EX2710Q refurbished for $250 on eBay, but you are playing the lottery. Two different panels, apparently one is better.

So I think buying a new Sceptre from Amazon is better. Less, and easier to return. I don’t want a green tint, and don’t want to have to mess with settings to make it look right.

Not real 10 bit, the BenQ, it has FCR or whatever too. I’m guessing the Sceptre does too. What panel does the Sceptre use though? Samhung? That means you get a Samhung for way cheaper.

That doesn’t answer what panel Sceptre uses, just that they are US company and manufactured in China, like almost everything.

The Sceptre might not have picture in picture, bummer. Don’t use it much anyways though. Do they have a more expensive model with flicker free?

Hmm the Sceptre says the backlight life is 30,000+ hours. Only 1250 days. So it might last around 3 years, like this one. Except, I think the backlight is still working.

At least with that one, I could get a DisplayPort adapter for Mac mini.

How does the Sceptre score one more then BenQ? According to a BenQ fanrobot, like myself, that isn’t possible. Well, that sells it. Who cares about USB ports on monitor. It’s brighter and better contrast.

I ordered a drum for my printer on eBay, seller I think I bought toner from in the past. If they don’t ship tomorrow, I’m canceling it. Didn’t see anything about handling, and they haven’t shipped it yet.

One feedback says they sell stuff they don’t actually have. They have an eBay store though.

I sent a message earlier today. If it’s not shipped tomorrow, I’ll see about canceling it, or disputing it. I won’t wait weeks for them to ship it.

Pretty sure I need a new drum, the tracking label I printed, was missing stuff in bar code. Still good enough, as I got a refund already. Also it’s leaving ink in other places of paper. Like where I’m not printing, I print on half a sheet of label paper, two labels per paper.

If you barely use your printer, apparently you need a drum sooner, as the drum might age without printing too. Drums do have a shelf life.

It’s too late to cancel this order. Please contact the seller to see if you can work something out.It’s too late to cancel this order. Please contact the seller to see if you can work something out.

eBay is a dick. So I’ll dispute it. I’m not waiting for shipping estimate either, if I have to go to my credit union, so be it. Then I’ll get banned from PayPal and eBay though, so maybe not.

I see why they don’t respond or ship it, they don’t have to.

Will usually ship within 2 business days of receiving cleared payment.

Apparently you can’t see that on the shitty eBay app, thanks eBay. I think I’ll avoid eBay from now on, it’s worse then Amazon.

Seller can’t even respond with the above though.

I think I ordered Saturday, so four days to ship, if you order on the weekend. Now to check app, and see if they just added that.

The eBay app, does say handling time, if you tap the right think. Thought that would show return info only the other day.

So order on Friday instead, then they should ship it by Tuesday. If not, dispute it. Ignore the “usually” part.

Dear buyer It’s really sorry that usually our local supplier ship out the drum unit. Please give us a moment asking for the update info. We will be back soon. Thank you.

What does that mean? Their supplier probably doesn’t have it. But they didn’t state the obvious, usually ships in two days. Well today almost over.

But doesn’t sound like they speak English great. So perhaps they personally aren’t in the US. Yet, it’s all supposed to be made in the US or something. Well, it just says American. Maybe not made in the US then. But their toner is fine.

Good thing I don’t print much. If the 3D printer is fixed soon, I’ll print more with that, until it breaks again. Or I run out of filament, and have no money for more.

And shouldn’t they send an update without asking anything? Maybe I should ask who local supplier is.

Update
Not scammed I guess, they shipped it. Won’t take long either. Just like I thought. It’s coming from California.

But it’s not USPS first class, so not the cheapest shipping. UPS instead.

Probably shipped earlier today or yesterday, but nobody put tracking into eBay. Looks like label made yesterday.

Weird way they run eBay account, if they don’t know what’s going on. Good reason not to ship by a supplier.

Fucking fly in here, possibly more then one. Saw one in laundry room too. There’s a fly problem.

Because a high level player hasn’t done that low level stuff yet. I shouldn’t have to make a new character to play in an area I haven’t played in.

They tried kicking me, but I think you can only kick people from a party, I’m not in one.

So they can be butt hurt.

You can get to a high level, with the base game. No expansion needed. Think I only have on expansion that I bought a long time ago. Or do I have two? I’m only level 11, after 80, I think. Just leveled up the hero thing.

I assume you can get to a hero with base game, perhaps I have more expansions then I think.

The script from here, I changed it to 5 for the compute profile.

Now the clock speed is at the max while playing Wurm Online and Guild Wars 2. If you don’t play new games, or only new games, perhaps that script will work for you.

I have systemd to run it at boot. After network though, too lazy to lookup what it can start after.

I found out the core clock looked low, because I enabled it to be shown in MongoHud. You can change that with GOverlay. Make sure not to use Steam Tinker Launch’s MangoHud config, or you won’t see it.

Not sure I’ll keep playing Wurm Online though, I revoked myself from the village I was in. Don’t think I can undo that myself. Nothing like testing the /revoke command. And then logging off.

You talk to yourself in the Alliance chat, so not sure there’s any point in being in it. I can go make myself a starter shed. And then let it decay, cause I’m not paying for a deed. Unless somebody gives me money, I’ll call it “Harry Ass Farmers”. If they don’t allow “Ass”, I’ll use Donkey.

On another note, some movies require downloading a shit ton of subtitles, until you find the right ones. Changing the time offset, is too much work. And I should have looked for that movie on Netflix or something, it’s old. I’ve seen some of it, not sure all of it before. Worth watching again anyways.

I can only hear it, if I have subtitles on. Or I mean hear what they say. I’ll be rewinding a lot otherwise, I require hearing every single word.

Might not fix Wurm Online, I think the Steam Deck stutters too with that game, but it’s worse then my desktop. Steam Deck should already be using the right profile, well maybe not compute.

Still need a new monitor, backlight bleed is annoying. At least you can’t see it in most stuff.

What’s making my computer stutter then? Maybe UrBackup is.

Don’t really care about tearing.

Unscrewed something I shouldn’t have, the gear on the extuder, not motor. Was trying to get old motor off. Hurt my thumb trying to get the gear back on. Might just pay $15 for a new extruder. It comes already attached.

Maybe tweezers will prevent thumb from hurting.

I looked at photos, and I was trying to put it back on right. So maybe the screw isn’t straight or something. But you can pull it out, not sure how that’s going to work. Could you pull it out before? No idea.

They make a bracket to convert to direct drive, might get that someday. Not printing a bracket, the one you buy is most likely metal. Cheaper then direct drive extruder.

Update
Good news, now I need another new motor, lost the right step screw earlier, and this one sticks too far out. So you can move the gear all the way around. If I gave up, like I planned on doing, there’d be no problem with the motor.

I Jerry rigged a different screw, since I think the screw broke when unscrewing it. Used one of the original washers, and a nut.

But it won’t do any good, since the set screw is stuck, and don’t have the original step screw. I looked, but good luck finding it.

No you can’t return the motor in the condition it’s in. Maybe a flat head screwdriver can get it out, no idea.

The old motor could work, the thing comes off of it. Unless it’s shorter then the new motor. Either way, I ain’t spending anymore money this month, or possibly ever on it.

It wasn’t my idea to keep trying to get a broken screw to work.

The other screw is threaded entirely, so not the right screw to use at all. No idea if you can get partially threaded screws anywhere. If you plan on Jerry rigging it, maybe use both washers, and the nut.

Might have a warranty, but there’s no point in asking for replacement, as the new motor can’t be used. Seems like the hole on the set screw is too big, for all my tools. So you need a custom tool to get it out. I have too big, or too small. The one I used to get it in, doesn’t work. Didn’t look in new tool set though. I figured the same one I used to screw it in would work to get it out. Apparently not.

That’s a good idea, destroy all electronics on it, then take it to the dump.

Update
Better news, the set screw must not have been too tight. I could push it up with a screwdriver and remove it. I removed the motor from printer, and tried to get it off, luckily it came off. Now I should ask about my warranty for the extruder. Or buy a new one next month, probably buying a monitor too.

Turns out, the range is only 30-95 Hz. So under that doesn’t work.

But still need a new monitor, lots of back light bleed. Doubt a cable will fix that. I’ve had other monitors, last longer, most likely.

No idea why FreeSync doesn’t work with Wurm Online.

And that cable has a 20% coupon, too bad I didn’t get it, didn’t notice on my phone. This cable might be falling apart slightly anyways. And the new one is a higher spec one.

If I want to see if back light bleeds, change the input, if not, then I guess the cable matters. But doubtful. Unless that isn’t back light bleed.

And it’s most likely back light bleed, on Mac mini too, using HDMI cable. Possibly the worst quality monitor I bought, and the most expensive. Picture is good, but the back light has issues too soon.

Can’t tell you what happened, other then it claimed my status site was down. And it says no under it, which I guess is the new URL. When logging in, it said there’s two sites with the same name or some bullshit.

Told me to disable Jetpack on the other two sites, and switch that to my static status page. And delete my Uptime Robot and WodPress account. Don’t need either, Jetpack isn’t secure or is buggy, therefore I won’t be using it.

Should change those sites to a static site, then I can have just one hosting account.

You can’t delete the no crap, the link on the WordPress site, has null in it. So it doesn’t work as far as I can tell.

No more useless Jetpack stats, as most traffic is bots, and don’t load it. Hard to believe that many people block it, but who knows. No more likes from bots either.

So what, somebody registered a new site, with my domain or something? Surprised it let’s you do that. Don’t ask me why they used no.

Not worth my time emailing support.

Photo

From the impalong or whatever, not much to do there, or maybe I’m too lazy to do anything.

Made with Stable Diffusion, Fix Faces failed.

The box came unsealed, so it’s used. Either somebody returned it, or they sell used motors. Either way, it’s used, and don’t recall it saying I was buying a used motor.

No wonder it was on sale. They aren’t selling new ones after all.

Can’t decide if I even want to waste time tomorrow putting it on printer. Doesn’t exactly look dirty or anything, but a beat up box, and not sealed, raises questions. I think I’ve bought from that seller before too, possibly the first time being sold used junk.

Now to search reviews on it, and see if anybody else got a used one. Send them a message, asking if the box is supposed to be unsealed. Used products are common with this “new” motor it looks like, somebody got two used ones from them. Except, mine is pretty clean, for being used.

They got used junk, because either the seller is crap, or people buy it, send old burnt out one back, get money back, and get a free motor. Then they sell those used motors without knowing it, as clearly nobody checks what is being returned.

It’s supposed to have screws? Well, I’m sending it back then. All I got was a motor.

Where the fuck am I supposed to buy a motor? I know, get rid of printer, easier. The old motor, the thing may not come off of. So you can’t use it.

Doesn’t exactly look used, but the “protection” stuff, got in where you plug in the cable. Because it isn’t in plastic. That’s how Creality ships their stuff to third parties? You most likely have to buy in bulk to buy it, so they buy in bulk, and this is how they received it? Well, I purchased the worst brand of printer I could have.

Probably the other type that was missing screws.

Seal broken, stuff missing, common from Creality CL Store. I’m sending the junk back.

If you look at photos here, that might have that protection crap on it too, so Creality doesn’t seal boxes, or put motor in plastic bag.

I might be too lazy to return it, as I need to find a third party motor, that works easily, that is no voltage changes or anything.

The Geeetech is the same price, I’ll eventually order as a spare. Unless I send this back, then order to replace this one.

Photos, perhaps more light would have helped. But looks pretty new, considering the unsealed beat up box.

The point of sending it back, would be, to make a point, that I’m sick of unsealed used stuff when paying for new. But the Lot number could be this year, so not ancient. But possibly, the throwaways from the factory, in other words, won’t last long most likely. Or is it just the questionable box and outside of motor?

How long do I want to wait to try printing though? Already waited many months. Might as well wait many more.

I sent Creality CL Store a message, just to see what they say. Not that I’ll believe them.

Now to charge camera battery, finally needs charging.

Update
I’m returning it, since I don’t know why it was returned. Might look new, but who knows. Maybe they installed it, and it didn’t even turn on. I bought the other motor, that isn’t Creality branded.

If you ask them anything, they require pictures, just like if you email them, so the person saying they aren’t the real Creality, they might be, as they require pictures to answer anything. I’m too lazy to take a picture of the beat up box, that isn’t sealed.

Don’t say you don’t need the item anymore, if you do, you have to take it to Staples or the UPS Store to return it for free, or pay to return it with a label and your own envelope. I bought envelopes before seeing that, just changed the reason, to inaccurate description, as it didn’t say I was buying a returned item.

But I can see how Creality is the worse brand, they require pictures to answer anything. Even if you want to buy the part.

Photo

Replace the entire tool set. The one on left is new. Must have more stuff, it’s bigger.

Got the other one, when I was a kid I think. We may have been living at my grandma’s at the time, or celebrating something there. None of that tool set has been used that much.

Maybe this one will last longer, mainly need the socket wrench to change nozzles.

$70 or so after tax at Lowe’s. I think 129 pieces.

Use this script. It doesn’t use the shitty outdated/ancient Java. It downloads everything you need.

Didn’t need to install openjfx or openjdk-17 in openSUSE, doesn’t even work, probably because I’m missing something, at least JCEF or whatever.

Oh and if using KDE, clicking the settings button actually works correctly.

Do all OSes have an outdated Java bundled for Wurm Online? No idea. Using the Mac to play it isn’t convenient, you have to lower settings, and NoMachine might make it look even worse. Appears to still be Intel only on macOS. So if in the future, no more Intel binaries on Macs, you won’t be playing it.

My account isn’t tied to Steam, so can’t try the Steam version.

Perhaps they should release Wurm Online 2, and ditch Java. At least if they aren’t going to update the bundled Java.

There’s a big FPS drop that causes stuttering, at least with bundled Java. Haven’t ran it long enough to know if the other Java fixes it yet. FreeSync doesn’t seem to stop the stuttering. If it did, I wouldn’t care.

Not completely fixed, but only dropped to 60 FPS once, instead of around 40 FPS. You’d think FreeSync would do 60 FPS. Or does it only work for small FPS drops? Or does Java not support FreeSync at all? It’s limited to 90 FPS. It’s a 95 Hz monitor.

Maybe if you don’t use Wayland it doesn’t stutter on FPS drop.

Changing the garbage collector could help. Thanks to non bundled ancient Java, you can use something else.

Maybe the “Low Latency” option helps. Looks like that changes garbage collector, so maybe.

How long do you need to “play” it to know if it’s fixed? Not often enough, so might take a while. Didn’t do it at all with the Low Latency option. But no idea how long it was open.

Update
Not fixed, guess you can’t completely get rid of stuttering. At least not in Linux. Too bad FreeSync is useless.

The first order out of stock, replacement out of stock too. They wasted my time, so now they get $0. Next try will be Ace Hardware. Seeing as Lowe’s has no stock of Kobalt, you won’t be getting it replaced if it breaks. I doubt they’ll refund you after a year.

Took until around 6 AM for replacement to say out of stock. Maybe a bunch of people ordered it after me, and got it instead. Either way, I’ll never do a pickup at Lowe’s again.

The Craftsman will be $50, if you have their rewards. A little more then the first one I ordered. But maybe they have it.

Hmm, if Jeff goes to Lowe’s, that’s better. He can just find something for $50 or less, and I’ll pay him back. Pickups are pointless there though. You have to order replacement after replacement.

And that Craftsman is $50 at Lowe’s too, no reward membership needed apparently. Saw it on Amazon first, but I don’t approve of slow ass shipping, you wouldn’t get it until September 6th. If you can’t find anything in town for $50 or less, you might as well pay $100, instead of waiting for Amazon’s “two day” prime shipping.

Harbor Freight isn’t really cheaper then Kobalt, or much cheaper then Craftsman, so not worth getting. And the socket wrench might be like mine, so will probably break pretty quickly, they look similar.

And he’s getting the Kobalt for $65, it can replace my entire tool set. It’s on sale, comes with more stuff then the Craftsman. I’ll let the old one collect dust. The sockets are still good I think. Wouldn’t give it to my nephew, because the socket wrench is broken. If it was a present, I’d just buy one for him. Probably the same $65 one. Stuff goes on sale all the time, so if he wants one, we can get him one for Christmas.

Now if he just asked for it, and knows the socket wrench is broken, he could take it.

Once OctoPrint starts up, I can try printing. I forgot you can move the printer inside tent, to get filament in easier. Just says starting. Cura says preparing. Might be working now, has a target temperature. Rebooted Orange Pi Zero and Printer. Updated the Orange Pi, so might have needed to be rebooted.

And still won’t print. Is something stuck in tube? Or is motor dead already for the extruder? I’m guessing the motor is dead. But to know if there’s anything in tube, you have to completely remove tube, and look in it. If the motor is dead, it didn’t last long at all. Guess I need a new extruder all together, if you look at bad reviews. The direct drive one, not sure it will work with my hotend. The Spider V1. Or put the original back on.

The motor it came with, might not work, penis might not be long enough on it. I’ll just buy a couple for $13 each. Cheaper then direct drive extruder. The filament can’t go on top of printer, but I made room to put it on the side of printer on the tent bed. Two so if one dies, I have an extra one. I could just get another extruder thing with motor for $22 or so. But the motor it came with sucks, so no thanks.

Really? You have to change voltage on the printer for that motor? That won’t work for me. Guess I’ll look for different motor.

Well, can’t find a motor, I want one that uses the same cable. So I’ll order the extruder + motor. Or send them a message, asking what motor replacement to buy. Found a review on a motor, that says it will work, so I’ll order and hope it does.

I think the motor is supposed to get hot, while running, it wasn’t hot. So it’s probably dead. I should see if the original motor fits, but I’m lazy. I’ll keep that as a spare. The gear might not come off anyways. Nice feature eh? The old motor says caution hot or something.

Only bought one motor though. Since I’m not sure it’ll work.

You shouldn’t even need a new fan mount. I only needed the two longer screws, and the temperature thing. Waiting for nozzles my mom ordered before doing anything else. The nozzle on it, came off nice and easy, non like the nozzle that came with printer. Well, I didn’t know how to use a socket wrench then apparently.

The new nozzles are brass, I’d rather ruin a brass nozzle then a copper one. Bad offset means you might ruin the nozzle. Getting the offset right is a pain in the ass.

Not sure why printer stopped printing last time, the nozzle hole isn’t clogged, crap possibly on the side though.

I ended up soldering the temperature thing wire on, it said it might not be long enough. Not removing printer from tent, and plugging directly in, just to find out it ain’t long enough. And I did a bad job, too much wire, now it’s even more of a mess.

Maybe the extruder died. Thanks to RC car, I have money now. I’d buy the same cheapo extruder, well motor I should say. Didn’t turn printer on yet, so no idea if my crappy soldering worked.

And everything seems to work, didn’t put filament back in yet. But the offset might be -2.10 now. Got to remove printer from tent, to put filament back in. Tent ain’t big enough to do it easily. Maybe tomorrow.

Might need a new socket wrench as well. Hard to make it tighten or loosen now, and I couldn’t just rotate socket wrench to do it, had to move the thing manually. Maybe the heat messed it up.

Well, may have ordered a socket set.

He said the brand I have, is cheap Chinese crap. Well, maybe I said the crap part. But he said made in China. Possibly worse then Harbor Freight, don’t ask me how they did that.

A week or less of use from my Companion or whatever socket wrench. If counting hours, well maybe not even a day. I use it to get nozzle off. And tighten it when it’s hot. Yes, you can get one just for nozzles, but it’s probably junk. And it has a lifetime guarantee I think. Not Craftsman though. Not sure it’s any cheaper, but who cares. As long as it works longer then a week worth of nozzle changes, it’s good enough for me.

Update
No new socket wrench, they sell you shit they don’t have. First time ordering for a pickup from them, and they don’t even have it. And they think I’m going to order something else. Might as well order from Harbor Freight at this point.

And turns out, it worked out, they had a cheaper set anyways, that will work fine. Nice, and no refund, they charged me the refund instead, according to PayPal notification. So now I need to dispute it, as I want the difference back immediately. You don’t sell shit you don’t have. If you do, you refund right away. Looks like they do temporary authorizations, so they just updated it, and don’t have -60+ instead of -21 or so.

Apparently one adapter may be useless that it comes with. The 5 something one.

If they don’t have that either, I’ll take my refund.

It took a while though, I put the disk image on a slow 6 TB drive. And the first time I tried, I didn’t change the storage settings, so it was even slower. Not a SSD, and using the host I/O cache was unchecked.

I first tried to use Windows on a USB drive, but that didn’t work at all. A thing would popup in Windows about a hardware problem or something, after opening the program. Maybe it uses a Realtek chipset, and it was ejecting it or something. Or there’s something wrong with that enclosure or SSD, or cable.

Couldn’t use VMware, it can’t compile the drivers. Probably because of the kernel I updated to.

And that 6 TB drive is making noise sometimes apparently. Might be slower too.

Updated the firmware, to see if it improves Linux compatibility. But I think it’s the kernel update that made it be annoying. It’s operating at the wrong USB speed, when rebooting sometimes. You have to unplug it and plug it back in to fix. That’s why I run a benchmark after rebooting on it. Make sure I’m getting the right speed.

The idle temperature on drive may have increased after updating firmware. So maybe the idle speed is faster now, nice.

If you get to 99% and it says fail, it probably didn’t, you are just too slow at reconnecting it to VM.

The Windows VM is normally ran from the SSD in that enclosure, but you can’t do that when updating, not to mention, instructions say to remove SSD from enclosure.

You can’t update Realtek firmware from Linux without a VM? I didn’t look up to see if you can, I just used a VM. Using a VM, you risk messing it up, probably can fix, but might need bare metal Windows. Which won’t work for me from my non NVMe USB SSD. I should check the chipset on it, and get one that uses non Realtek, if it uses Realtek. If not, then redo the drive. Maybe it got corrupt. Linux was having some slight issues accessing it. Dolphin was hanging. Maybe the Kingston drive in it, died. Nice, it hasn’t even been used recently, it died while unpowered.

Somebody finally wanted it. It was sitting on a shelf for a long time. A drone with a camera would be more fun. Or maybe a thermal camera. You can find wildlife with a thermal camera, easier then without a thermal camera. Probably too expensive though.

Also drones can be hard to fly.

I suppose you can take selfies with a non thermal camera drone.

If it does thermal and non thermal, that is ideal, then you can take a photo of the wildlife. Unless you are satisfied with just a thermal image.

The new hotend came today. I couldn’t find on their store, what it came with, so didn’t know if everything you need is included. The manufacture’s site. Even comes with an extra nozzle. Looks like it uses a different temperature thing, forgot how to spell it. But it comes with. I didn’t read every sentence on the page for it on their site, so maybe it does say something, but I do know the manual link isn’t a link, therefore clicking it does nothing.

My mom did order some brass nozzles that should work, actually cost more then the hotend, well maybe not after the shipping on hotend.

I probably won’t solder the new temperature cable, but I probably won’t put it in the cable sleeve either, I’ll plug it into the board, but I won’t waste time with the cable sleeve, that’ll piss you off.

I’ll probably wait until the nozzles come, and put a brass nozzle on it, so I don’t destroy a copper nozzle. I assume it came with an extra nozzle, it won’t be easy removing it, maybe you can with tweezers. Not with my fingers. They packaged it so you can’t easily remove the nozzle or whatever it is. I could try putting it upside down I suppose and see if it’ll fall out, probably not.

But I should wait and see what fire does, as if the building burns down, I won’t have a 3D printer anymore anyways. They said at least one fire wasn’t natural, or did it all start from the same unnatural fire? And if a car backfiring will cause a fire, funny humans went with gas rather then electricity. Pretty stupid to say the least, assuming electric cars don’t backfire. We could have prevented global warming. Could have also been a campfire. Maybe a smoker threw a cigarette on the ground.

Don’t worry, Trump can still be president, the Supreme Court will say that the constitution saying he can’t is unconstitutional, and they’ll remove that.

Update
And you might need a new fan mount thing, which you can print. Perhaps the Ender 3 V2 Neo one is compatible. I won’t know until I try putting it on.

Photo

Well, neither can get the weather station very well. On the shelf for some reason.

But the shorter antenna, has a shitty cable, like the cable is part of the antenna reception, as if it’s curled or anything, it doesn’t work right. So that antenna was a waste of money. I moved all the network stuff to that shelf, you can’t see the network stuff, it’s under the top shelf. Maybe the cable isn’t shielded.

But if the cable is right, and you use an LNA, I got one, you can get regular FM radio better. Don’t leave that long ass antenna extended when not in use, it can and will fall over, fell over while plugging it in.

LNA is only at 2 dB, might not need any for regular FM with this antenna.

To use biast with Gqrx, add bias=1. Turning it on with rtl_biast won’t do much good, once you open Gqrx, it’ll turn it off. That goes under device string obviously.

Didn’t test it with FM blocker, maybe someday.

#!/usr/bin/bash
#off rtl_biast -b 0
#on rtl_biast -b 1

if [ "$1" == "on" ];then
        echo "running: rtl_biast -b 1"
        rtl_biast -b 1
elif [ "$1" == "off" ];then
        echo "running: rtl_biast -b 0"
        rtl_biast -b 0
fi

Script to turn it on or off. Might only be useful for turning it off, after exiting Gqrx. And yes, that works with USBIP. There’s lights on the LNA, and they go on, when you turn it on.

And just like I thought, the antenna is the input, so plug antenna into in on the LNA.

Update
The telescopic antenna not great today. Maybe earlier today, not anymore. Likes falling over too. Using the other antenna now, might be working better.

Maybe the RTL-SDR got too hot. Well, they might both suck for that station now. Bummer. Maybe the fire made the reception worse. You can hear static too, don’t want the static. I want a nice clean radio signal. Just like her anus.

Hmm, might be headphones actually. Something is interfering possibly, if I stand up, it’s better. Guess I’ll move antenna for PCIe WiFi/Bluetooth card. It’s only good, if I stand up near antenna. Doesn’t matter where antenna for Bluetooth/WiFi is. Maybe the radio antenna needs to be moved farther away. May have found a clean signal spot.

You can’t get weather radio at all with this antenna though, the other one, it needs to be the right height.

Perhaps playing the audio with something wired works better. Fine so far, after finding the right spot.

You do get a digital credit, but I doubt they are saving much if any money. Two different shipping providers, so they won’t come at the same time. How is that fewer trips to your dwelling?

Hmm I have a good spot I could put my camera by door now, on the new shelf. But I set up the Orange Pi Zero in a special way for it. And I ain’t moving the Orange Pi. It’s also for printer. Just get another camera instead, and see if it has a better picture then the new one, get a different brand of course.