Panasonic 12-32mm is good enough

Didn’t pay that much for it. Probably does great outside. Could try using HDR inside, but that’s not good for moving subjects.

Nice, AfterShot Pro can align photos, so you can try doing it without a tripod. digiKam can do it too.

Funny, somebody on a forum says, they don’t own an Olympus body, because Olympus doesn’t make a 15mm lens. You can use Panasonic lenses on Olympus, I do it. Unless the Panasonic isn’t micro four thirds, in that case, they are in the wrong forum.

HDR is the lazy person’s way of getting the exposure right.

I never tried focus stacking on my camera

Problem is I’m to lazy. I’d have to change the lens, to my YI 42.5mm, it has a macro switch on it.

Wait a second, that might get everything in focus at 12mm. Well, I’m to lazy to stand up.

Got to play Tropico 6. That’s way more fun then standing up.

Does the Panasonic G95 have high res mode? There’s a cheaper Panasonic camera, don’t know if it has high res mode either. You basically get the camera for $200, cause it comes with a $500 lens. It’s the G85.

The G85 is splash and dust proof. So I can use it in the rain? It looks like a mini DSLR. Will the price go down once the G95 is out?

Looks like that is the new price, it’s 1k from Panasonic.

Why only two images? Thought it said in the settings, 99. And 5 different focus points.

Looks like two images, is worse then taking just one picture, if you stack em.

Zoom in to 32mm, or whatever the max is, and it takes three images instead of two. So I need a 60mm lens.

The zoomed in combined images, looks worse. Looks like the second setting, only works for 12mm. It’s set to three, something about the focus difference or something, the default is 5, which probably works for zoomed in.

Good luck reading the shipping label on the box. No processing other then combining the two pictures, and saving it as a JPG was done.

Not satisfied, the first image it took, without combining looks sharper. Are the default settings in digiKam crap or something? Just set the shutter speed to 20.

What was the flash on without bracketing? Maybe fill flash is better for interiors. Except, that’s just the table. Didn’t take a picture of the entire kitchen.

Looks like, you need to use JPGs if you want it as sharp, or edit the PNG file. Can’t make it as sharp. Now to try combining the JPGs. Nope, still sucks. You might have to try every single setting on the camera, or find different software.

Use a tripod, maybe the image align doesn’t work very well.

What’s the point in 12mm if you have to be close for it to be sharp? The conclusion I came to before is the same. Now, where do I buy a 17mm-40+mm lens? That is sharp.

Guess I’ll just use this as a 17mm+ lens.

I did get five focus bracketing images. Zoomed in, and must of been close enough. So it’s useless for interiors.

Well, if there isn’t a bunch of text you care about, 12mm is fine. Like the living room, the only text probably readable by the angel, is TCL on the TV, and it is with the lens.

So don’t use it for indoor items with text on it.

You know what will fix it? Glasses. Will mine work? Probably not. I need new glasses.

The carpet looks weird. But I guess it works, I also used auto focus, didn’t pick where to focus it. That looks better then the first image, it’s out of focus.

Probably better for macro lenses. For taking pictures of micro stuff.

The Panasonic Lumix G Vario 12-32mm f/3.5-5.6 ASPH is basically a 20+mm lens

It’s sharp at f5.6 and 20+mm.

Hopefully outside I can back up really far, cause the 12mm isn’t sharp enough. Just do the dishwasher test, take a bunch of pictures of the dishwasher, the big brand name text should be sharp, if it isn’t, change the focal length and/or aperture. Might also be sharper at f3.5 or whatever at 12mm too.

The small text isn’t sharp to my eyes with glasses on either, so I don’t care about that. You’d need a telephoto lens to get that sharp.

I should sell my YI lens. Except, it has good bokeh. So I’ll hoard it.

Oh yeah, the flash can also kill the pictures.

It’s easy to get the SD card out if you use your thumb. No need to use a key. Or a fingernail, that I don’t have. The people complaining about the small battery + SD opening on the grip, must have really fat thumbs or fingers. You just push on it with your thumb, and slide it up.

It’s not a good interior picture if you can’t read the brand name on the dishwasher.

Is Comcast throttling my connection? Slow at uploading. Or my slice is being throttled. Fallout 76 is downloading slow also. Not downloading it in Windows, that may or may not work. It might not like network shares.


Why is the text on my dishwasher smaller to my camera?

Sitting in my chair, the text looks bigger then zoomed in at 100% on the image of it. I thought cameras could see more then people.

Can I get glasses for my Panasonic lens? If I take my glasses off, I can’t see the text at all. It’s a blurry mess.

18mm could be sharper, but the text is still smaller then what I see.

Funny, the lens is wider in the RAW file.

I tested every aperture from f5.6 to f16. The settings were mostly the same, just increased the flash power for the ones over f8. It doesn’t get sharper after f8, f9 is mostly the same, after f11 it gets worse.

18mm f8

The picture on the fridge isn’t sharp.

You can’t see the aperture on the gallery, the privacy plugin kills all the EXIF info. I looked at the plugin, didn’t see anything that would do that.

Is the text the correct size with my Panasonic 25mm? Or is it 20mm? It’s 25mm.

I use the privacy plugin, so bots can’t guess the filename, and view it. Only if it’s public. I changed the permissions on the folder too.

The picture I took with my phone, is blurry, the text is on the dishwasher. If you zoom in. The text looks darker, not faded like with my camera.

Are you not supposed to use f8 inside?

Why not? Isn’t that what flashes are for? Not sure that’s the sharpest aperture, 32mm f8 is sharp.

Will more light result in less noise? To lazy to search, and I don’t understand anything. That’s why I’m still single.

The answer appears to be yes. I took a picture with a shutter of 30 or something, and then 60 which is what the camera picks. Both f8, also took one at 10 for the shutter speed, 10 is the best. I wouldn’t recommend using the numbers with “, whatever that means. Inches maybe?

Changing the EV compensation might do it too. I’ll just use it in M mode, and set my shutter manually, and keep the aperture at f8. I could of kept my old camera, thanks to the new lens, the camera uses a shitty shutter speed.

That’s on the camera, didn’t look at the pictures on my computer yet. Taking the SD card out is a pain, the grip doesn’t give you much room to grab it. It has an opening, not the official grip. I wouldn’t buy the official one, it’s like $60, and no opening. Rather have a small opening then none. Shouldn’t of trimmed my fingernails. Now it’s even harder to remove the card. Got it out with a key, there’s a little slit or something on the top of the card. If I had fingernails, I could use them. Maybe indent is a better word.

Can I go any slower then 1/10 s? Go to low, and it’ll be blurry. The IBIS won’t make every slow shutter possible.

If you use the really slow speeds with the ” in it, your camera will show a black screen for a long time. I tried getting it do something, I think it finally changed modes, right before I turned it off.

The noise is acceptable at 1/10 s. But none would be ideal. But good luck, lowering the ISO will make it less bright. I’d need a new flash. I think if I buy the same one, I can make it a slave.

Is there a reason my camera picks 1/60 s?

1/10 s
1/60 s

All at ISO 800, click the image, and view the original, and zoom in, look at the dishwasher, the brand is mush on the 1/60 s. The noise by the door is similar on both though. The focus was on the dishwasher.

Is that really noise? Or shutter shock? Almost looks like the same amount of noise on the dishwasher, just blurred on the 1/60 s image. Might be easier to see the noise on a darker image.

To lazy to mess with the anti shock setting. Already put camera away. Maybe in 5+ months I will.

Brilliant, IBIS makes it so you can use cheap lenses at f8. You shouldn’t need to use a Pro lens at f8 inside. Or maybe you would, if you don’t want bokeh.

Transcend TS32GSDC500S-E 32GB UHS-I U1 SD Memory Card MLC

Card works fine in my Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II.

Now I can take over 1,000 pictures on the same card. Well, not without charging a battery most likely. Don’t know how many pictures one battery does, I only have two.

Bought it on Amazon. Bought it for the space, not the speed. Was a good price, and wasn’t a SanDick. Should of bought a Lexar, would of been cheaper. Not sure if it’s the same speed though. Transcend probably has a cheaper one, that is slower.

My preferred flash storage is Samsung. That’s about the only good thing they make, unless you like paying for their name.

Also got a UV filter, for protection, don’t care about the UV part. And a rear cap for my new lens. Apparently the kit they took the lens out of didn’t come with a rear cap for the lens.

Panasonic Lumix G Vario 12-32mm f/3.5-5.6 ASPH

Was it advertised as not coming with a rear cap? It has the front cap.

You don’t need a 9mm lens, 12mm is plenty, just back up and you’ll be able to get wide enough pictures. The only good thing about 9mm or less, is you can be closer. I don’t go anywhere that requires being close.

I use it at f5.6. Even at 12mm.

The optical stabilization most likely doesn’t work on Olympus bodies. There’s no switch on the lens. I’d need a Panasonic camera for that. Don’t need it, my camera has IBIS.

If you look at the glass in the rear of the lens, you can see something, not sure if it’s a reflection, or dust, or something else.

It’s probably a kit lens, a pretty good one. Didn’t put the pictures on my computer yet.

You need a powerful flash if you use it indoors, mine is powerful enough.

Might not have bokeh, I’d have to zoom in and get close to find out. It has bokeh, take a picture of your tit to see. That’s how close you have to be.

Oh yeah, to fix the white balance, without using custom ones, turn off the keep warm setting. Saw something about that option on a forum, never noticed it before, it’s under G in the gear icon or whatever.

If using 32mm, you might need to increase the aperture more, that is more then 5.6, not less, 8 > 5.6. You can’t make me think aperture as something else, therefore, 8 is bigger then 5.6.

Noise at ISO 800? Might not be noise, might be “soft”. Who cares, the lens cost $125 or something before tax, it was new pulled from a bundle. You can only see it on the walls, and the table. Take a picture of the dog, and you can’t see whatever it is. If it’s soft, turning it down more might help.

Here’s a picture for the ladies.

Neat Image removes detail. Might as well use the noise reduction in digiKam.

It’ll cost $6 for a rear Panasonic lens cap. Will my other lenses rear caps fit on it? Just leave one lens on the camera at all times, like I do.

Now that’s some nice packaging

That my Fotodiox Pro, All Metal Black Camera Hand Grip for Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II came in, just a box, and plastic bag, not a closed or anything, so you don’t need to tear to open anything. No tape on the box, so you don’t need to tear that either.

That might be the best camera accessory I’ve ever bought. You only need one hand if you use that. Well, with a light lens. Stupid flash ruins pictures if you crank it up to high, and if you are using f1.7, you have to bounce it.

If your fingers are bigger then mine, good luck removing the SD card with that on.

If you don’t use the flash, on my camera, I have to set the white balance manually, flash is good for lazy people.

Dark or washed out pictures. I’ll take the dark pictures. Increasing the ISO might make it better, just not 800, maybe 400.