That might be the best camera accessory I’ve ever bought. You only need one hand if you use that. Well, with a light lens. Stupid flash ruins pictures if you crank it up to high, and if you are using f1.7, you have to bounce it.
If your fingers are bigger then mine, good luck removing the SD card with that on.
If you don’t use the flash, on my camera, I have to set the white balance manually, flash is good for lazy people.
Dark or washed out pictures. I’ll take the dark pictures. Increasing the ISO might make it better, just not 800, maybe 400.
Why would I try taking pictures of the moon? Pretty sure none of my lenses zoom far enough. Also, that means going outside in the cold. Good luck holding a tripod, the dog, and your camera. Just to find out you can’t zoom in far enough.
There’s no point in using my 28mm Canon FD lens.
Actually, it’s almost as sharp. Still not any point, the Panasonic has auto focus, that doesn’t always work. The focus ring on the Panasonic is smoother, if you need to use it.
Look at the remote, click the image and view the original size, then zoom in. The text is more readable on the Panasonic.
If all you care about the phone, then either lens is good enough. The top of the phone might be slightly sharper on the Panasonic. Either good enough for eBay. If you like getting scammed by buyers.
You can read the text on the 3DS games.
It’s got bokeh too. Think I only paid $150 or so for the lens, can’t be beat if you want auto focus. The manual focus lenses probably won’t be as sharp, even stepping down.
To be fair, the Canon FD lens was cheaper most likely, but the adapter makes the total investment more then the Panasonic, the adapter was $150.
What’s the point in my $150 adapter? You aren’t saving money buying it. You’d be better off selling your Canon FD lenses, if you have a bunch, then buying the Panasonic or some other lens. The manual focus made for micro 4/3 lenses, are probably just as good as Canon FD lenses.
If you have no Canon FD lenses, then don’t bother paying a bunch of money for an adapter, and then more for lenses.
7artisans makes some cheap manual focus lenses.
Also, if you have the original E-M10, the adapter may suck on it. You’ll have to fiddle with it, to figure out what setting is wrong. I can use the screen to focus on the E-M10 Mark II, and the pictures are much sharper then the original E-M10. Not touch to focus, just a magnify view, and using the focus ring, but I don’t have to look through the viewfinder for good results.
If the grip isn’t on the left, it’s useless. I don’t remember where the battery compartment is, I think on the right, that means the $30 third party grip is useless, it’ll add a grip to the right, where I don’t need it.
There’s nowhere to hang on the left, on my old camera, there was a dial I could rest my fingers on, and break off. Now I end up grabbing onto the screen, which tilts or something stupid, and I like adjusting the viewfinder. Good thing I don’t use the viewfinder, I’d be constantly changing it back.
When I first got it, I kept changing the mode, instead of the aperture.
If a third party accessory damages your camera, your warranty is useless.
Just like my third party tripod, I don’t own an Olympus tripod.
The third party grip getting loose doesn’t matter, that’s what the necklace for the camera is. Only the grip will hit the floor. Also, it might not get loose enough to fall off, you’ll probably tighten it constantly.
What was that beeping noise? Sounded like a noise Deepin makes. Like adjusting the volume, but I wasn’t when I heard it.
I’ll probably buy it anyways. Might make it easier to use manual lenses, they add weight to the camera. I’m to lazy to go look at my camera, to see where the battery compartment is.
I need to test my other Vivitar lens, it’s a zoom lens, and huge. I’ll wait until I get a grip. Starts at 28mm, but goes to 105mm. Use that for portraits maybe. Beats paying $500+. Or even $200+. The lens might of cost under $100 when I bought it.
Glad I didn’t sell that adapter, looks like it didn’t like my old E-M10. Possibly selecting a bad shutter speed. But even with a tripod, it sucked. Does the shutter speed matter if you use a tripod?
If anything isn’t sharp, it’s user error now.
I should of bought this camera to begin with. Now I have a new primary lens. Good luck doing focus bracketing with it though.
Maybe the old camera is defective, but auto focus lenses work fine on it.
No viewfinder was used either, and it’s much sharper. All I did was set the image stabilization to 28mm. I had to lower the ISO in the kitchen too.
One of her legs isn’t sharp, probably user error. Still sharper then it was on the old camera.
And they say manual focus is hard, not really.
That was either f5.6 or f8. It’s less with the adapter, somehow it adds light.
I wouldn’t use it at the lowest aperture, not as sharp. If I want bokeh, I’ll use my auto focus YI lens.
I need a telephoto lens, problem is, they are huge. Some are expensive too, over $600. You’d need two tripods, one for the camera, and one for the lens.
On another note, Adorama sells an adapter like mine used for $140, not sure if it’s the same version as mine. They offered me nothing, no email. If I didn’t enter my email wrong, then they ignored me. So I’ll ignore them, and never buy from them again.
Why would you prefer manual focus for video? That’s a pain in the ass, if the subject is running, like a dog. Unless you are running too, and staying the exact same distance.
On TV shows, you don’t see them changing the focus. Might would be messy if I manually focused. Got to get it perfect. That means turning past what might be the best, just to make sure it really is.
Didn’t know they made lenses too. Most cost to much, better off with one of the new Sigma auto focus lenses. Auto focus is good for lazy people.
Going to put my zoom lens on it, if it’s brighter with that too, then I guess the answer is yes.
If it isn’t, then the camera might say the wrong aperture for my YI lens. But I did change it to the highest aperture, and it was mostly black, f16 or something, 16 > 1.8.
Might be brighter, hard to tell. If the subject is close, I can use the lowest flash level, at f6.3 or whatever it’s at.
Oh and the Tiffen filter doesn’t do anything to the image on the new camera, so some auto setting was off with that on, on the old camera. Or the old camera doesn’t like that filter.
It’s also sharper then the YI lens. So I’ll probably mostly use it from now on.
Not really a inside lens, probably intended for outside. Good thing I have a overkill flash. In the kitchen, it looks brighter. There’s more light in there though.
You can get bokeh with the zoom lens, even at f6.3. Just move closer. In fact, I’ll probably get bokeh all the time now, without trying. If you zoom in, you’ll get bokeh too.
The only picture that isn’t really better or worse then the YI, is the picture of the pitcher on the counter.
Look at the drive in the background, that’s bokeh. Not as strong as the YI, but who cares.
Might not of been as close, as I was with the YI, but the YI is 42.5mm, the Olympus was at 40mm. Neither got the text on the stove sharp.
I’d have to take the picture stepped back farther with the YI for a better comparison.
How do you get everything in focus? Maybe with focus bracketing. Don’t know if AfterShot Pro can combine em, don’t think it can, maybe if there’s a plugin to do it. You can use opensource software to do it.
If you don’t care about strong bokeh, the Olympus is a better buy. It was $100 when I bought it. That is brand new. I did get the YI used for $100 or so. So it looks like I got two lenses for $200, instead of just the YI.
Looks like my refurbished camera only has a 90 day warranty, you get a year if you buy new.
It extends it two years. Costs $100 though.
You can only buy the extended warranty while the original warranty is still in place. I have 89 days to buy it.
Or be cheap and don’t buy it. Got to buy a $50 battery instead. If you buy the battery from Olympus, it’s over $60. You can get a 20% or so coupon, brings it down to $51 or so, still more then Amazon.
Can you use the coupon and your points? I might have more points from buying a camera. Then I can get $20 or so off. Probably won’t be valid next month. Don’t know how long it takes for the points to show up.
It’s ugly, and it’s basically a popup with all the settings.
Live Control has all the settings too, and it looks better.
Is Live Control missing anything? Nothing that I use.
It’s possible my YI lens works better with the OM-D E-M10 Mark II.
On another note, I’m going to be broke on the 31st, or 12 AM on the 1st of next month. Sprent around $30 on non food stuff. Got an automatic payment coming out on the 31st or 12 am on the 1st. My money doesn’t show up till the credit union opens.
They should change my automatic billing to the 5th of every month.
Apparently not, it didn’t import them, and opening them in AfterShot Pro, doesn’t work, shows nothing.
That’s version 3.
The colors in the RAW file is closer to what I see. So I guess you do get better pictures from the RAW files. If you want it to look like what you see. No editing needed, well maybe noise removal.
Had to download the Camera Profile from here. Sucks it won’t reimport the folder, with the RAW images. Deleted the pictures, then the folder, in AfterShot Pro, not on the drive. And it still didn’t import the RAW files.
Nice, I can’t import them. Not even with the file browser in it.
There we go, made a new Catalog, the old one had 2017 in the name, so it was old anyways.
The colors in the RAW files aren’t better. Was that image viewer viewing the RAW or the JPG?
Change Color Management to none, and the colors match what I see. But the image is darker.