Sitting in my chair, the text looks bigger then zoomed in at 100% on the image of it. I thought cameras could see more then people.
Can I get glasses for my Panasonic lens? If I take my glasses off, I can’t see the text at all. It’s a blurry mess.
18mm could be sharper, but the text is still smaller then what I see.
Funny, the lens is wider in the RAW file.
I tested every aperture from f5.6 to f16. The settings were mostly the same, just increased the flash power for the ones over f8. It doesn’t get sharper after f8, f9 is mostly the same, after f11 it gets worse.
The picture on the fridge isn’t sharp.
You can’t see the aperture on the gallery, the privacy plugin kills all the EXIF info. I looked at the plugin, didn’t see anything that would do that.
Is the text the correct size with my Panasonic 25mm? Or is it 20mm? It’s 25mm.
I use the privacy plugin, so bots can’t guess the filename, and view it. Only if it’s public. I changed the permissions on the folder too.
The picture I took with my phone, is blurry, the text is on the dishwasher. If you zoom in. The text looks darker, not faded like with my camera.
Why not? Isn’t that what flashes are for? Not sure that’s the sharpest aperture, 32mm f8 is sharp.
Will more light result in less noise? To lazy to search, and I don’t understand anything. That’s why I’m still single.
The answer appears to be yes. I took a picture with a shutter of 30 or something, and then 60 which is what the camera picks. Both f8, also took one at 10 for the shutter speed, 10 is the best. I wouldn’t recommend using the numbers with “, whatever that means. Inches maybe?
Changing the EV compensation might do it too. I’ll just use it in M mode, and set my shutter manually, and keep the aperture at f8. I could of kept my old camera, thanks to the new lens, the camera uses a shitty shutter speed.
That’s on the camera, didn’t look at the pictures on my computer yet. Taking the SD card out is a pain, the grip doesn’t give you much room to grab it. It has an opening, not the official grip. I wouldn’t buy the official one, it’s like $60, and no opening. Rather have a small opening then none. Shouldn’t of trimmed my fingernails. Now it’s even harder to remove the card. Got it out with a key, there’s a little slit or something on the top of the card. If I had fingernails, I could use them. Maybe indent is a better word.
Can I go any slower then 1/10 s? Go to low, and it’ll be blurry. The IBIS won’t make every slow shutter possible.
If you use the really slow speeds with the ” in it, your camera will show a black screen for a long time. I tried getting it do something, I think it finally changed modes, right before I turned it off.
The noise is acceptable at 1/10 s. But none would be ideal. But good luck, lowering the ISO will make it less bright. I’d need a new flash. I think if I buy the same one, I can make it a slave.
Is there a reason my camera picks 1/60 s?
All at ISO 800, click the image, and view the original, and zoom in, look at the dishwasher, the brand is mush on the 1/60 s. The noise by the door is similar on both though. The focus was on the dishwasher.
Is that really noise? Or shutter shock? Almost looks like the same amount of noise on the dishwasher, just blurred on the 1/60 s image. Might be easier to see the noise on a darker image.
To lazy to mess with the anti shock setting. Already put camera away. Maybe in 5+ months I will.
Brilliant, IBIS makes it so you can use cheap lenses at f8. You shouldn’t need to use a Pro lens at f8 inside. Or maybe you would, if you don’t want bokeh.
Now I can take over 1,000 pictures on the same card. Well, not without charging a battery most likely. Don’t know how many pictures one battery does, I only have two.
Bought it on Amazon. Bought it for the space, not the speed. Was a good price, and wasn’t a SanDick. Should of bought a Lexar, would of been cheaper. Not sure if it’s the same speed though. Transcend probably has a cheaper one, that is slower.
My preferred flash storage is Samsung. That’s about the only good thing they make, unless you like paying for their name.
Also got a UV filter, for protection, don’t care about the UV part. And a rear cap for my new lens. Apparently the kit they took the lens out of didn’t come with a rear cap for the lens.
Was it advertised as not coming with a rear cap? It has the front cap.
You don’t need a 9mm lens, 12mm is plenty, just back up and you’ll be able to get wide enough pictures. The only good thing about 9mm or less, is you can be closer. I don’t go anywhere that requires being close.
I use it at f5.6. Even at 12mm.
The optical stabilization most likely doesn’t work on Olympus bodies. There’s no switch on the lens. I’d need a Panasonic camera for that. Don’t need it, my camera has IBIS.
If you look at the glass in the rear of the lens, you can see something, not sure if it’s a reflection, or dust, or something else.
It’s probably a kit lens, a pretty good one. Didn’t put the pictures on my computer yet.
You need a powerful flash if you use it indoors, mine is powerful enough.
Might not have bokeh, I’d have to zoom in and get close to find out. It has bokeh, take a picture of your tit to see. That’s how close you have to be.
Oh yeah, to fix the white balance, without using custom ones, turn off the keep warm setting. Saw something about that option on a forum, never noticed it before, it’s under G in the gear icon or whatever.
If using 32mm, you might need to increase the aperture more, that is more then 5.6, not less, 8 > 5.6. You can’t make me think aperture as something else, therefore, 8 is bigger then 5.6.
Noise at ISO 800? Might not be noise, might be “soft”. Who cares, the lens cost $125 or something before tax, it was new pulled from a bundle. You can only see it on the walls, and the table. Take a picture of the dog, and you can’t see whatever it is. If it’s soft, turning it down more might help.
That might be the best camera accessory I’ve ever bought. You only need one hand if you use that. Well, with a light lens. Stupid flash ruins pictures if you crank it up to high, and if you are using f1.7, you have to bounce it.
If your fingers are bigger then mine, good luck removing the SD card with that on.
If you don’t use the flash, on my camera, I have to set the white balance manually, flash is good for lazy people.
Dark or washed out pictures. I’ll take the dark pictures. Increasing the ISO might make it better, just not 800, maybe 400.
Why would I try taking pictures of the moon? Pretty sure none of my lenses zoom far enough. Also, that means going outside in the cold. Good luck holding a tripod, the dog, and your camera. Just to find out you can’t zoom in far enough.
There’s no point in using my 28mm Canon FD lens.
Actually, it’s almost as sharp. Still not any point, the Panasonic has auto focus, that doesn’t always work. The focus ring on the Panasonic is smoother, if you need to use it.
Look at the remote, click the image and view the original size, then zoom in. The text is more readable on the Panasonic.
If all you care about the phone, then either lens is good enough. The top of the phone might be slightly sharper on the Panasonic. Either good enough for eBay. If you like getting scammed by buyers.
You can read the text on the 3DS games.
It’s got bokeh too. Think I only paid $150 or so for the lens, can’t be beat if you want auto focus. The manual focus lenses probably won’t be as sharp, even stepping down.
To be fair, the Canon FD lens was cheaper most likely, but the adapter makes the total investment more then the Panasonic, the adapter was $150.
What’s the point in my $150 adapter? You aren’t saving money buying it. You’d be better off selling your Canon FD lenses, if you have a bunch, then buying the Panasonic or some other lens. The manual focus made for micro 4/3 lenses, are probably just as good as Canon FD lenses.
If you have no Canon FD lenses, then don’t bother paying a bunch of money for an adapter, and then more for lenses.
7artisans makes some cheap manual focus lenses.
Also, if you have the original E-M10, the adapter may suck on it. You’ll have to fiddle with it, to figure out what setting is wrong. I can use the screen to focus on the E-M10 Mark II, and the pictures are much sharper then the original E-M10. Not touch to focus, just a magnify view, and using the focus ring, but I don’t have to look through the viewfinder for good results.
If the grip isn’t on the left, it’s useless. I don’t remember where the battery compartment is, I think on the right, that means the $30 third party grip is useless, it’ll add a grip to the right, where I don’t need it.
There’s nowhere to hang on the left, on my old camera, there was a dial I could rest my fingers on, and break off. Now I end up grabbing onto the screen, which tilts or something stupid, and I like adjusting the viewfinder. Good thing I don’t use the viewfinder, I’d be constantly changing it back.
When I first got it, I kept changing the mode, instead of the aperture.
If a third party accessory damages your camera, your warranty is useless.
Just like my third party tripod, I don’t own an Olympus tripod.
The third party grip getting loose doesn’t matter, that’s what the necklace for the camera is. Only the grip will hit the floor. Also, it might not get loose enough to fall off, you’ll probably tighten it constantly.
What was that beeping noise? Sounded like a noise Deepin makes. Like adjusting the volume, but I wasn’t when I heard it.
I’ll probably buy it anyways. Might make it easier to use manual lenses, they add weight to the camera. I’m to lazy to go look at my camera, to see where the battery compartment is.
I need to test my other Vivitar lens, it’s a zoom lens, and huge. I’ll wait until I get a grip. Starts at 28mm, but goes to 105mm. Use that for portraits maybe. Beats paying $500+. Or even $200+. The lens might of cost under $100 when I bought it.
Glad I didn’t sell that adapter, looks like it didn’t like my old E-M10. Possibly selecting a bad shutter speed. But even with a tripod, it sucked. Does the shutter speed matter if you use a tripod?
If anything isn’t sharp, it’s user error now.
I should of bought this camera to begin with. Now I have a new primary lens. Good luck doing focus bracketing with it though.
Maybe the old camera is defective, but auto focus lenses work fine on it.
No viewfinder was used either, and it’s much sharper. All I did was set the image stabilization to 28mm. I had to lower the ISO in the kitchen too.
One of her legs isn’t sharp, probably user error. Still sharper then it was on the old camera.
And they say manual focus is hard, not really.
That was either f5.6 or f8. It’s less with the adapter, somehow it adds light.
I wouldn’t use it at the lowest aperture, not as sharp. If I want bokeh, I’ll use my auto focus YI lens.
I need a telephoto lens, problem is, they are huge. Some are expensive too, over $600. You’d need two tripods, one for the camera, and one for the lens.
On another note, Adorama sells an adapter like mine used for $140, not sure if it’s the same version as mine. They offered me nothing, no email. If I didn’t enter my email wrong, then they ignored me. So I’ll ignore them, and never buy from them again.
Why would you prefer manual focus for video? That’s a pain in the ass, if the subject is running, like a dog. Unless you are running too, and staying the exact same distance.
On TV shows, you don’t see them changing the focus. Might would be messy if I manually focused. Got to get it perfect. That means turning past what might be the best, just to make sure it really is.
Didn’t know they made lenses too. Most cost to much, better off with one of the new Sigma auto focus lenses. Auto focus is good for lazy people.