Look at that bokeh

That was with a YI 42.5mm in macro mode. Almost 10″ is to far away, I want to touch whatever I’m taking a picture of. So 0″ would do the trick.

I might of bought automatic extension tubes. That’ll let me use any lens as a macro lens.

If you want bokeh, use a macro lens, or extension tubes.

Was the YI always slow at focusing? Or just in macro mode?

Olympus’s site had a refurbished 45mm for under $200, was sold out, and now it’s not listed. Probably sharper then the YI, and costs less then a new YI. But is the bokeh like the above?

No flash ring was used, just a Magsphere and the flash pointed up. It kills the picture if you don’t point the flash up, even with the lowest power on the flash.

The Sigma 60mm can be a macro lens, with extension tubes. It costs $240 new, the Olympus 60mm macro is $400 or a little more new.

Think that was taken at f3.5 or whatever the lowest is in macro mode.

My eyes can’t seem to focus if I put my thumb right in front of it.

I don’t really need the Sigma 60mm, I have a Olympus 40-150mm lens, that’ll do 60mm. Use 150mm, and see what happens. The Olympus is probably slower, but it only cost $100 when I bought it.

I should not pay Ultra Mobile next month, upgrade my hosting instead. You have to call to get the account number, so you can port it. Not sure the number is worth doing that.

Is the OM-D E-M10 Mark II really brighter then the original E-M10?

Going to put my zoom lens on it, if it’s brighter with that too, then I guess the answer is yes.

If it isn’t, then the camera might say the wrong aperture for my YI lens. But I did change it to the highest aperture, and it was mostly black, f16 or something, 16 > 1.8.

Might be brighter, hard to tell. If the subject is close, I can use the lowest flash level, at f6.3 or whatever it’s at.

Oh and the Tiffen filter doesn’t do anything to the image on the new camera, so some auto setting was off with that on, on the old camera. Or the old camera doesn’t like that filter.

It’s also sharper then the YI lens. So I’ll probably mostly use it from now on.

Not really a inside lens, probably intended for outside. Good thing I have a overkill flash. In the kitchen, it looks brighter. There’s more light in there though.

You can get bokeh with the zoom lens, even at f6.3. Just move closer. In fact, I’ll probably get bokeh all the time now, without trying. If you zoom in, you’ll get bokeh too.

The only picture that isn’t really better or worse then the YI, is the picture of the pitcher on the counter.

Look at the drive in the background, that’s bokeh. Not as strong as the YI, but who cares.

YI 42.5mm
Olympus M. 40-150mm F4.0-5.6 R

Might not of been as close, as I was with the YI, but the YI is 42.5mm, the Olympus was at 40mm. Neither got the text on the stove sharp.

I’d have to take the picture stepped back farther with the YI for a better comparison.

How do you get everything in focus? Maybe with focus bracketing. Don’t know if AfterShot Pro can combine em, don’t think it can, maybe if there’s a plugin to do it. You can use opensource software to do it.

If you don’t care about strong bokeh, the Olympus is a better buy. It was $100 when I bought it. That is brand new. I did get the YI used for $100 or so. So it looks like I got two lenses for $200, instead of just the YI.

Another refurbished camera

Got a Olympus OM-D E-M10 Mark II. They shipped it Monday, I didn’t pay extra for faster shipping. And I got it today.

Does it work? I didn’t put an old battery in it yet.

It cost a little over $300 after tax, I got $10 off, I had credit for buying a camera three years ago.

I was looking at the page for it, and it looks like I can use the view finder and tap to focus on the screen at the same time. The first one, you have to remove your eye from the view finder, tap to focus, and look through it again.

Well, it turns on. Forgot how to change what the settings looks like when you click OK in the live view, where you change ISO and stuff. I like the one where you scroll down to different settings, the default is probably for touching.

Nothing on Google says how to change the SCP view. It looks different on my other camera, and I have no idea how to make the new one look the same.

Can’t use the camera until I change it. Should probably pack it up and send it back. Since the internet is useless.

And it’s fixed, it’s Live Control, not SCP. Not sure why you’d want the SCP. The Live Control is better. Doesn’t show all settings in a popup, you have to scroll down to change various settings. I prefer scrolling, then having a mess of icons.

The strap isn’t as long as the other one. Apparently they want you to have the camera closer to you. Did I attach it right? Probably not, future post will say the camera fell and shattered.

The pictures are brighter, at ISO 800, f5.6 and even f6.3. With a flash, don’t use in TTL mode, the flash will kill the picture.

So I guess it was indeed an update, only bought because the mode dial broke off the other one.

I wouldn’t use a third party battery, the old battery got hot. The new one is done charging. But if the battery gets warm at all, then a third party battery will swell. They are lower quality batteries, that the manufacture didn’t want.

The sharpness on the YI lens is only in a certain area, then it’s not sharp anymore. I can get Tonka’s head in focus, but not her body too. Might be the distance.

The new Sigma lenses cost to much, more then my camera.

Look at the bottom of the box. It’s user error, look at the other box not fully in the frame, and look at the bottom, it’s sharp. Stupid lens, camera, or me.

Is there a newer firmware for my camera? Might be to risky to upgrade it, think I read somebody broke their camera doing so.

Nice, they upgraded it for me.

How is the Mark II brighter? I thought it was basically the same camera? And they say a new camera won’t get you better pictures. It’ll get you brighter pictures. I can probably lower the ISO to 400 or less. Then TTL flash mode might work. The sensor I assumed was the same. Obviously updated software, that supports focus bracketing, that I may or may not use.

Nice blue dot

I thought that was only supposed to happen at slower shutter speeds?

If you look at the RAW in AfterShot Pro, you can’t see the blue dot, if you zoom in. I think AfterShot Pro gets rid of it. Just export it, and it won’t have it.

Got to use the lame pixel mapping function in the menu.

Lame because I have to do it. Apparently some cameras you have to send to the manufacture to get it done. If it worked, I’ll only buy Olympus cameras. If it didn’t work, I might eventually buy a Panasonic camera. Do they have a pixel mapping function?

Looks like it fixed it. Or I didn’t take enough pictures. Also was in a different room. Messed up on the focus on most of the pictures I took. Or messed up the bokeh.

That’s the best picture I took. There’s something brown on or above her nose. Was that the flash? Or has she been sticking her nose in poop?

I’ll be keeping my YI lens, it’s the only auto focus made for my camera lens that is f1.8. I have a cheap manual Chinese lens, but it probably isn’t as sharp. Manual focus is a pain. At least with Canon FD lenses it is.

Another dark picture on my phone, not on my monitor. Google wants to “fix” the lightning, all it does is ruin the picture, perfectly clear in AfterShot Pro would probably work better. But it doesn’t need anything on my monitor. Increasing the brightness on my phone could help too.

Bokeh

You must like a ton of bokeh if you need or want f1.8. Even at f5.6, there’s bokeh, just more of the dog is in focus.

You might be able to get less bokeh, if you back it up. You don’t need a lens more then f2.8, f2.8 is the cheap Sigma lenses, well more then my used YI lens.

That should be f5.6, unless my memory failed, to lazy to import it in AfterShot Pro to see, my default image viewer doesn’t say the aperture.

Probably f1.8.

You don’t need a flash with the Yi 42.5mm lens

You might get blur though. And you have to use manual mode, if you want to set the shutter and aperture. If you don’t set the shutter, then you’ll get blur no matter what, at least in my living room. S mode does the aperture automatically, so no f1.8.

The lens isn’t tack sharp. But good enough for $100 or so, that’s how much I paid for a used one on eBay.

Haha Piwigo crashed MariaDB, sort of, had to refresh. Said it was gone.

Just don’t zoom into the pictures taken with it.

Now, do I want sharp pictures, or a good focal length? You could have both, if you buy the Olympus 45mm lens.

Hopefully my small camera bag doesn’t rip because of that lens. Can’t bring a flash with me, unless I want to take my big ass camera backpack. Might as well get a big ass camera if I do that.

FYI, you can use an aspect ratio of 16:9 on most cameras, you just change a setting. Some guy thinks 16:9 makes a camera better. Not really, you lose resolution doing so.

I have a sharp Panasonic 25mm, but I like 42.5mm better. Would that Olympus 45mm even fit in my small camera bag? If I didn’t want a reliable backup drive, I might have money left over, if I bought a cheaper external drive. Then I can shell out $250 for the Olympus 45mm.

Might have to do with a 3 or 4 TB drive. It’ll mostly be a backup for my movies drive.

WesternDick is cheaper then Seagate. Are they just as unreliable? Probably, based on the war of fanboys. I’ll probably buy the Seagate drive. The one I have has lasted a long time, it’s not full though.

No flash, also means, you have to set a custom white balance, you just need a white piece of paper. At least in my apartment you do. Think you do at my mom’s too.

That picture is way darker on my phone. Google Photos or AfterShot Pro can fix it. I backup to my Slice and Google, no restrictions on my Slice. Google is if something happens to my drives, and my Slice.

And the picture might be brighter in AfterShot Pro. Just noticed a red dot in that picture. Is that from the sensor?

Yup long exposures. Why isn’t the dot visible when zooming in? In AfterShot Pro. Something to do with the RAW image, zoom into the JPG and the dot stays. Does that mean, if I export it, the dot will go away?

The answer is yes, apparently it removes it automatically, or Neat Image removed it. Needed to remove some noise. But before removing noise in the preview, there was no dot I could see.

More satisfied with the cheap lens now, so I probably won’t buy the Olympus 45mm. You can increase sharpness by editing it, it just adds a bunch of dots or something, so it looks sharper.

YI 42.5mm F1.8 Lens on Olympus OM-D E-M10

I’ll have some pictures taken with that lens on my camera soon. It was cheap on eBay, and I saw some pictures taken with it, then realizing I had to have it, at least for a little over $100. It was used once, it says. Glad they didn’t like it.

That’s the same reason I bought a manual lens I have, but getting that in focus is a pain.

The YI has auto focus. It has no manual focus on an Olympus or Panasonic body. I probably can’t even update the firmware on the lens. Or does the firmware live on the camera? There’s separate firmware for their camera and that lens on their site.