Well, soundbases might not be available new anymore. The one I have for my computer should still work which is a ZVOX. I had one for my TV, which started with an F, would have had to pay to ship it to Canada to get it fixed. Assuming what I read was right, but seeing as the same thing happened to somebody else, there’s no point in paying to get it fixed. Who knows when that died. That is likely long gone, as I put it in the dumpster a long time ago.
Looks like to get good sound for cheap, you basically need a receiver and speakers now.
This soundbar with Dolby Atmos, probably the most expensive sound thing I’ve had, and I like the soundbases better. My headphones might as well be better too. Hmm, using my headphones might solve my audio issues as well.
The HDMI switch I have, or one of them, is annoying, it uses the same codes as the soundbar, meaning you can turn off the soundbar just by changing inputs on the HDMI switch. One reason not to buy anything on Amazon, too much junk.
If I want to buy a HDMI switch with Dolby Atmos, that’ll cost $120, if you want one that might not be junk. And aren’t buying on Amazon. The Fosmon one might do Dolby Atmos, which is $43, or maybe less on eBay. Could be better then this one. Or just pay $55 for the one from B&H. And enjoy possible audio latency.
The Fosmon one doesn’t say anything about audio on their site apparently. Probably a cheapo brand as well.
But if I don’t want Dolby Atmos, I can get a 4k one for $20 or less.
Oh and HDMI can lick my smelly stinky asshole. The DRM might be the reason HDMI 2.1 doesn’t work with the open source driver in Linux. Good luck finding a TV with DisplayPort in the US. Well, I think I’ll avoid upgrading my TV. To upgrade to HDMI 2.1 for only the stuff you want isn’t possible, you get the DRM crap too.
My TV might not support variable refresh rate anyways, I think I remember noticing that in the game menu before, it says variable refresh rate: no. No idea why it bothers saying that though, if it doesn’t even support it. But if it does support it, either the HDMI switch and/or soundbar don’t. Or a cable. Don’t know if I ever plugged something directly into the TV that supports that. Don’t even know if the Apple TV supports it either.
Where are the don’t tread on me people? Oh yeah, watching their 100" TV with a HDMI source. Well, DRM is great for controlling what people can watch on their own TV, including the news. They just need to make a show people want to watch, then people will “upgrade” their shit, spend a bunch of money, and can no longer watch anything old they have. And depending on if or when that happens, all the people that could crack it, might no longer be alive anyways. Also, why spend money if you need to crack it?
Speaking of, I’m pretty sure there’s boxes you can buy to crack HDMI, or whatever you want to call it. Hmm, so the DRM doesn’t even work.
Also, not looking on Amazon for a soundbase.
Best Buy might have something for $700. No thanks. Cheaper to buy a subwoofer + two speakers + receiver, most likely.
I don’t think I actually liked any of my soundbars, therefore, they were all a big waste of money.
And since they got rid of soundbases, I’d go very cheap on a receiver. But I probably won’t bother. Preferably with no Bluetooth, as then you have to make sure somebody can’t just connect to it, when not even using the Bluetooth input. Luckily, it should be configured like that on this soundbar. After I did something most likely. Should come like that by default though. And all this shit about “security”.
Got to encode the rest of the shows I haven’t watched, should have thought of that after I thought I may have fixed my script. Ahh well, might as well re encode the other files again too. I could re encode everything, but I already watched it. Just want the chapters working, so I can skip commercials easier. Too lazy to modify script so it doesn’t re encode crap it doesn’t need to. Wouldn’t take much to do so though.
Not sure I like Kodi or not, the main problem, is apparently video files have to be encoded correctly when using ffmpeg. Apparently Handbrake is easier to do that with.
There’s always gmrender-resurrect, and if it’s still available in Debian, apparently it uses that code. Only using Kodi for Jellyfin, so Kodi might be overkill anyways.
Finally remembered to get the picture I took off my camera, well, two photos, but only one is probably usable. Need to fix the eyes though. Either red eye wasn’t/isn’t on, or doesn’t work on dog eyes.
Might need to reboot or turn off laptop as well, that short expensive cable from Best Buy kind of sucks, if I open the desk to get card reader.
And Digikam might be useless, for dog eyes. Looks yellow, not red. Enable preview on mouse over, and on somebody’s sweater, it changes that too. Or I mean all the sweaters. Well, I’ll send an image with just the colors “fixed” as well. They said it was fine. But doesn’t look like what I saw with my eyes, the white balance was likely wrong, because they had a lamp on. Well, RAW images are nice. Yellow eyes, not so much.
This lens has vignetting. Well, lens wasn’t $1,000, so who cares. Just use the auto correction thing, apparently it supports this lens and camera. Need something else for removing yellow dog eyes. Cause this thing ain’t working, and I’m too lazy to fuck with it.
Found instructions for using Gimp, but no idea how to select a medium sized edge paintbrush. Well, off to bed I go.
And haven’t taken photos so long, I should have titled flash up, and then I’d just need to increase the power most likely, instead of decrease. Also, haven’t used this Panasonic camera much, now I have three folders, and not much in any of them. Maybe they want me to retake the pictures or not. Might be easier then fixing the eyes.