My shitty internet was out all day. Still not working before I left. Perhaps if I rebooted the Raspberry Pi, it would have started working sooner.

I deleted the DDUID or whatever for IPv6, and that most likely changed my IPv6 addresses. Don’t know how to restart the network on the Raspberry Pi, you don’t with “systemctl restart network”. Too lazy to figure it out without internet, so rebooted it, and lots of other stuff.

The Apple TV didn’t need rebooting.

Two shows didn’t record with Channels DVR, both on a TV Everywhere channel. Luckily, I have all my shows saved in Philo. For that very reason.

No idea when the internet came back, I was gone for a while.

It does make you want to cancel it, but T-Mobile Home Internet, has no bridge mode. Not a business, so probably can’t get a small business plan, that lets you replace modem. TDS may never be available. Thought they already did what they needed, apparently not. They didn’t show up last time.

The internet seemed fine on my phone when I got home, oddly. Should have tried more stuff though. As it’s using the same DNS server, the Raspberry Pi. Perhaps everything I accessed was cached somewhere. Or it was using some other DNS server.

Oh and HomeKit apparently works with broken internet. Lots of stuff wouldn’t load, or only sometimes. Probably lots of packet loss or something, except pinging Google was fine, from some devices, not so much my desktop.

My desktop still can’t ping Google, yet my phone can. I can ping IPv4 Google. Does my outgoing firewall block pinging on IPv6 or something? Yes it does, I just disabled it temporally.

The firewall, doesn’t even list ping in it.

Surprised it works at all. It doesn’t list ping anywhere, even under the local rule. Not a very good outgoing firewall.

For IPv6 ping, you have to do this. Don’t know where that json file is though, you can’t do it with the GUI? Apparently not. Found the new rule button. It’s by the settings button. Don’t ask me how to do it with the GUI. I put ipv6-icmp for the protocol, but ping still doesn’t work.

Adding that to /etc/opensnitchd/system-fw.json doesn’t fix it. I needed a comma, ping works now, with IPv6. Add it to “SystemRules”. Hmm, I added it to another rule sort of. It may have messed that rule up.

Every time I restart opensnitch, it messed up my network shares, but assuming they start working, it should be fine now. Maybe kill Dolphin, and reopen it. No idea why that breaks my shares, guess I can just disable it, when I want to ping IPv6. Looks like it takes a long ass time to reconnect to network shares, after changing opensnitch.

The below should work for Docker too.

You have to edit more then what probably outdated instructions say.

Below is the SQL you can use for some of it.

UPDATE TypedBaseItems SET
    Path = replace(Path, '/oldpath/', '/newpath/')
WHERE
    Path LIKE '/oldpath/%';

You need to do so for mediastreams as well.

You can use sqlitebrowser to edit it. After you run the SQL for every folder, you need to go to Browse Data and select the TypedBaseItems table. I’d recommend searching for the paths you did, and checking the Path, but also data. Now you could modify the SQL to do data too. But you don’t have to manually edit that much most likely. Unless you have a shitload of folders.

I had to put a slash at the end, or it modifies the wrong thing, probably because the original path is /media/movies, and then the folder that is in the library, one is movies. And it will edit movies_whatever also.

Once you get the database edited, you need to edit some files.

The files you need to edit are in root/default/*.

You need to edit all options.xml files, and .mblink files.

And after editing the .mblink files, you need to remove the newline, or Jellyfin won’t be happy. Or edit it in a way, that doesn’t add a newline, if you use nano, enjoy a newline.

tr –delete ‘\n’ < root/default/xxx/harry_assholes.mblink > root/default/xxx/harry_assholes.mblink.new

Well, I don’t have to use Channels DVR for all non recorded stuff if I don’t want to now. But the subscription for the better Jellyfin client, is canceled, not sure I want to un cancel it. Doesn’t expire yet. Need to see if the other app works right or not, I think it might, after I changed a setting. It ain’t a pretty app though, but it must have been a one time fee.

And there’s a bunch of stuff not marked as watch, at least for the TV Shows. I had to remove one library, because I have all that stuff in Channels DVR. After removing it, it added a lovely newline to the Path in the database, because the .mblink had a newline in it. I guess my guess was right, that file needed the newline removed.

podman run -d --group-add keep-groups --env TZ=America/Los_Angeles -v /home/ass/jellyfin:/config -v /home/ass/jellyfin/cache:/cache -v /media/big_ass/penis:/media/PENIS -v /media/big_ass/xxx:/media/XXX -v /media/big_ass/more_xxx:/media/more_xxx --label io.containers.autoupdate=registry --name jellyfin --net=host docker.io/jellyfin/jellyfin:latest

You can generate a systemd service file, and never have to mess with it again, hopefully. I’m to lazy to lookup the command to make the systemd file, even too lazy to SSH into the Orange Pi 5 again.

I’m too lazy to check Jellyfin on desktop, and see if it too, has a bunch of unwatched/unwashed stuff.

Probably got messed up when I removed the library I don’t need. That probably means, not everything was edited. Marking stuff as watched isn’t that hard. Not sure why I don’t want to do that in Channels DVR, add the folders, and then mark all of it as watched.

All shows marked as watched, who cares about the movies.

Oh and my mom thinks I have full blown diabetes. Or at least that’s what it sounded like she thinks. In that case, I shouldn’t go to doctor, I don’t want to get diabetes, if you don’t get diagnosed, you won’t get it.

But if I do get diagnosed with it, I’ll move to a nursing home or something. I’m too lazy/stupid to manage anything. Only $60 a month, I’ll be canceling lots of bills.

macOS currently isn’t affected, but apparently mods for Minecraft, can come with malware. Not from the official developer though, well maybe sometimes.

If you play games on a computer, because mods can be better, well enjoy possibly getting malware.

I’ll be sure to remember that, and not buy any PC games anymore. Unless I don’t care about mods for that game. But the TV is better anyways. Controllers might be less painful. I could play on the Steam Deck to easily get a controller, but that screen is way smaller then my TV. And I can’t use mods, so why bother?

I doubt most Linux users run anti malware.

But there is an option, run Linux in a VM, that is isolated from everything else, if it gets infected, it might not do much. Too much work for me.

Fallout 4 is better with mods, I have it for the PS4, but play it on a PS5. I wouldn’t like the game without mods. The mods might be limited on the PS4/PS5, thanks Sony, perhaps it won’t get malware in that case. If it does, perhaps I can hack my PS5.

How long does it take USPS to get a package from Canada?

And order from 3D Printing Canada not 3D Printing USA. Same people, but the USA site, doesn’t show the tracking info when you look at an order. Maybe I have an account on the other site. I can view the order from an email from 3D Printing Canada, and get the tracking. Guess it doesn’t really matter. But not sure what the point in their USA site is. But I have to go into my email, to find the link. I do have it on my delivery app on my phone, but sometimes I want to look at it on my desktop. Thought it said 6-8 days to get here, but I don’t really remember.

I only recommend the Ender 3 V2 Neo, if you are willing to replace almost every part, and enjoy slow shipping. Unless you live in New York or close to New York. Then the shipping might be fast. Europe and China aren’t going to be faster.

Don’t bother emailing support, they want a video, and a receipt, to sell you a part. The PSU is apparently cloned crap. Cloned makes it crap.

Don’t ask me where the other Candian site ships from in Canada. I’m not very far from Canada, New York is probably farther away then Canada. So they couldn’t keep it in Canada and come directly here from Canada?

But I’m going to fix that problem, by printing parts, that will allow me to use other parts, not made for it. If it ever works that is. So before you break it, print parts so you can use parts not made for it, you’ll need it. Don’t remove the nozzle until you print parts, as the nozzle may break inside, and you’ll need to fix it.

Don’t set the z offset to the maximum negative, as you’ll break it. Apparently that broke the limit switch too. Or more likely, they sold me a broken printer.

Or if it breaks right away, send it back, and tell them it’s a POS. Mine won’t be a POS anymore, because it’ll have everything or almost everything replaced. Maybe I’ll replace the main board too, for good measures, and the screen of course. If there’s anything that says Creality on the printer, I should remove that as well. That way nobody will ask how my Creality printer doesn’t have many Creality parts.

If you haven’t bought a printer, lookup to see where you can order parts for any printer you are looking at. That is every part for it. If you can’t buy 100% of parts in your country, then it may not be the printer you want. Too bad I didn’t know that before buying it, didn’t think it would break right away either, if ever.

I do have tweezers now though. Those will come in handy. Can you twist wire with tweezers? My fingers can’t. Still surprised the soldering worked.

Well it attached anyways. Didn’t turn it on. You have to take the plastic thing around where the hole is off, and screw the flex thing on.

Said something about lubricating it. Need to lookup the instructions on their site, to see what they say to use for that.

I think I have a big thing of oil for something, maybe that’ll work.

It’s clipper blade oil, bought it originally for an electric shaver. Electric shavers don’t work, well maybe now it would. Probably depends on the hair on your face. Perhaps it wasn’t think enough, won’t waste money on one again.

But perhaps I can print the part I broke or lost. If the printer is ever fixed.

No idea if that kind of oil will work. Won’t buy any oil from Walmart, they most likely don’t have it.

Parts from Canada or wherever haven’t come yet, no idea when it’s coming. Did get some silicone solid bed mounts for the printer from Amazon today though.

They say to use white lithium grease. Or recommended. Now to see if Walmart claims to have it, and decide if I want to risk them not having it.

The threaded collar is what I had to remove. Was wondering how it was supposed to screw down, and decided to unscrew that. No actual thinking process though, probably the divine doing it for me. And you are supposed to use the collet thing that I removed. Might go in, without the threaded collar on. If not, I need a different collet. it goes in the other part, that comes off.

What happens if you don’t use a collet?

A review said it works with the Walmart rotary tool, I assume Hyper is the Walmart brand. Must be right. Bookmarked the instructions. Didn’t I have some lithium grease crap? No idea where it is. Probably gone. They claim to have it. Should check the only place it would be. But you can never have too much grease, cause I’m too lazy to look for any.

If using UrBackup with a slow drive, change Max simultaneous backups, or enjoy nothing finishing after you update it. I set it to 2, if that’s too much, try 1. If that’s still too much, try 0. And you have to restart UrBackup on the server after doing so. Which means backups will completely restart apparently, not resume. Not spending all my money this month, so not buying a NAS drive and enclosure. Slow drive it is. Maybe a new PSU for printer next month though, and maybe a drive, or a router. How do you convert an EdgeOS backup to OpenWRT? Cause I’m too fucking lazy to manually configure it. But I think it’s better then my router, and has built in WiFi. I assume you can make WiFi on it’s own VLAN with OpenWRT. And if I have to configure it, how do I block IPv6 traffic over VLANs? That is “local” traffic. I don’t want a local IPv6 on WiFi connecting to a wired IPv6 address. It required marking stuff with EdgeOS, then dropping.

I found some white lithium grease, so don’t have to waste money failing to buy it from Walmart.

I’ll grease if if I ever use it, except, I’ll probably forget to. You can’t fit the flex shaft in the case with rotary tool, it’s too long.

The latest version works in openSUSE Tumbleweed now, I ran the below commands to get it working.

sudo ln -s /usr/lib64/libjbig.so.2.1 /usr/lib64/libjbig.so.0
sudo ldconfig

If you use Distrobox, it may say invalid license, and then when you run it again, you get a new trial. But if you plan on buying it, or bought it, perhaps don’t use Distrobox.

They have a 20% off sale right now.

Not sure it’s worth buying though, as the decryption code is on their server. That means if their server is gone, you paid over $100 for a now useless program.

It also doesn’t support the version of MAX with commercials. It’ll download the first commercial and nothing else.

They should have a backup method, that you can enable, that actually records it, like Channels DVR does with TV Everywhere. TV Everywhere with Channels DVR is done once the show is over. So it’s not just downloading it. Unless it’s downloading really slow. If it had such a method, I’d gladly pay for it, as that means when their servers are gone, you can still use it. And I don’t have to get the commercial free version of MAX.

I don’t care much about having the best quality, so recording it streaming, is good enough for me. You can probably manually do that though. For free.

But it looks like you don’t have to pay for it anyways, as they will keep giving you new trials. If you use Distrobox. You may not be able to download as much as you want though, unless you get a new trial license after you run out of downloads for the day. I suspect they will ban your IP though. And I have no idea why it gives me a new trial. How is the hardware changing? No idea.

You might get an additional 10% off, if you pay with Bitcoin, unless that doesn’t apply to when they have a sale.

They should just release it as a Flatpak, or AppImage, or Snap. Or all three. On their forum, I think they are a developer of it, said they are having issues with libraries. The reason to use Flatpak or one of the others. Or does Flatpak use system libraries? No idea, don’t think AppImage does though.

Maybe the new version changed the hardware. But if I remember correctly, when it finally opened it openSUSE directly, I got a new trial again. So you can probably just open in Distrobox, and once your trial is over, open in host OS.

How does the lifetime license work? Does it require their server? Cause, I wouldn’t want to buy it, if it decides the license is no good, because my hardware “changed”.

At least on the router interface it does. Before when going over a drop down menu, you couldn’t click the link(s) in it. I didn’t test extensively though. I think sometimes it would work before.

No idea if it was a Firefox problem or something else. Using Wayland now, so perhaps X11 was the problem.

Just use xBrowserSync for syncing bookmarks, instead of the built in sync in the browser. You can use in Chrome based browsers as well. Probably not Safari, and probably not on an iPhone, bummer.

I don’t like Vivaldi, or any Chrome based browser. Safari is fine, not sure if Chrome is based on WebKit anymore though.

Safari is blazing fast on Apple Silicon Macs.

megacmd + floccus is probably better. Updating some packages, then I’ll install megacmd. I already have MEGA’s repo in openSUSE, so didn’t download RPM from site, just searched to see if it’s available, it is. Doesn’t do Safari, but has an iOS app, so good enough.

Import manually into Safari, if you need it. I don’t really browse much on my Mac mini.

The command is mega-cmd, not megacmd. mega-webdav is what you want for floccus. And login first with mega-cmd, just run that command, and type login [email protected], then enter password and two step code.

You have entered a server that uses an insecure protocol. It is recommended to only use servers with support for HTTPS.

Did they see the IP? Localhost. And who cares, if it’s on local network, without HTTPS. Says Firefox doesn’t support making folders in root folder, the folder is /, so the root folder, and it works. So no idea what they are talking about.

Now to see if I can access webdav on my Mac mini, changing the local IP to it’s actual IP. Nope, can’t access it, must be listening on 127.0.0.1 only. I’m too lazy to install any MEGA stuff on my Mac mini. Use “–public” with mega-webdav. Still doesn’t work.

You can use HTTPS if you want, with megacmd. Type quit in mega-cmd, then run mega-webdav with –public.

I forgot I can’t connect to my desktop on WiFi, no worries, VPN works. Won’t work when not home, or not on VPN. It’s a non public internet IP anyways. Just not 127.0.0.1.

Since they don’t want to make a Safari extension, just delete all Safari extensions, import HTML file, assuming extension in Firefox lets you export an HTML file, like the iOS app. Looks like the extension sucks, at least in Firefox. Export in app, then upload to MEGA. Or change it to HTML, which is “experimental”. So I’ll just use app.

Missing bookmarks, after importing to Safari. Good idea, export from Firefox. Or import directly from Firefox. That worked, need to make sure the sync bookmarks file has those new bookmarks though, if not, it ain’t doing it’s job. And it’s in the file it’s syncing. Safari must be a dick.

Now how do I run mega-cmd or mega-webdav on boot or when logging in?

If you want to upload your security camera footage, directly to MEGA, you can also run a FTP server with it. But my upload speed sucks, and if it’s recording, while trying to view the camera, it won’t be fun. Well, you could limit it to 200 kb/s maybe. Not the camera, the FTP to MEGA.

You need a systemd service, so it will start before you login.

MEGAcmd Server is still trying to log in. Still, some commands are available.

Just quit, and try again, it’s working now. You don’t need the service to run mega-webdav, just mega-cmd-server. After you use mega-webdav. It remembers what you did.

cat mega-webdav.service 
[Unit]
Description=mega-webdav bookmarks
Wants=network-online.target
After=network-online.target

[Service]
ExecStart=/usr/bin/mega-cmd-server
Restart=on-failure

[Install]
WantedBy=default.target

If using Armbian, don’t follow the instructions on the UrBackup site, you’ll get a nice error when starting it. Luckily, while trying to fix it, I backed up the most recent database files, so I could use those, instead of the backed up files.

You use armbian-config to install it.

It worked with the old database, so stopped it, and copied the newer database, and it still works.

No idea how you update with Armbian, do you just uninstall and reinstall or something? It didn’t show up with apt dist-upgrade. Well, when I first tried updating it, it didn’t, maybe it does now.

But you can’t even install using apt install urbackup-server. Can’t find it.

And if you run apt purge, it’ll delete everything, including the database. Backups are nice. Guess that’s why they call it purge.

That explains why I had no deb files anywhere for it. And if you install the official deb file, or the official way, apt will say you don’t need some stuff installed. After installing with armbian-config, it doesn’t say that anymore.

Maybe in armbian-config, there’s an update option, if there’s an update.

Maybe the problem is the package armbian-config installs is armhf, I installed the arm64 version. And that is probably the problem, I just checked their site, and they have a armhf version.

No idea why it installed the armhf version. Isn’t it arm64? Probably can run armhf though, as I could run urbackupsrv after installing the wrong package.

Repairing the database, just in case.

Apparently it takes a long time to do a backup after upgrading it. Might not be too long, if you use a faster drive. This drive eventually will slow down while writing to it. The type of drive it is. Just like the first backups take a long time.

But I don’t think the clients are actually doing much. The server is just copying stuff to another folder. I know these drives seem to be reliable, as I have a 6 TB one, I think that uses the same tech, and it’s been working fine. I don’t care about speed. It won’t be doing anymore file backups for a while. Until it finishes, then possibly again right away. The offline backup, uses the same drive type of drive. Don’t use an external drive as a backup drive, put an internal drive in an enclosure. It’ll cost more, but be better then whatever shitty drive they use in USB drives.

Luckily the Raspberry Pi is backed up to the Orange Pi 5, and a drive in a HD dock. Not sure if everything is backed up to Orange Pi 5, but everything should be backed up to HD dock drive.

Was going to post the error, but it looks like the log is full of warnings now.

Like creating hardlinks “failed. Invalid cross-device link (code: 18).”. Maybe don’t use Btrfs for the backup drive. But if you don’t, you don’t get all features. Is it just going to copy instead? Didn’t notice it doing hardlinks, when looking at the log in a browser.

I found the log in browser with some hardlink failures. It might be copying instead, but I can’t select it and copy the full path and filename, because it’s refreshing or something when there’s new logs. The copy right under a failure, looks like it might be the same file.

openSUSE update(s) killed one of my snaps, and I’m too lazy to use Podman for it instead.

So I booted a snapshot, it worked, and then rolled back with snapper rollback.

Was there a snap update? No idea, I don’t generally pay much attention, unless there’s a conflict or issue. There was a post on the openSUSE forum about it, but no replies when I looked at it earlier.

openSUSE sets it up with Btrfs and snapshots by default. You really think I’d have Btrfs if it wasn’t the default? No, I’d probably use ext4, and be slowly restoring a backup.

I moved the other camera, to the other side of tent for printer, so it can see the door. Now I’ll know if the door is locked, since I can’t recall which way to turn it to lock it.

Here is the post, and apparently an AppArmor issue. If it wasn’t in my history, I’d provide no link, as I’m too lazy to search, and don’t have the error recalled anyways.

I’ll be waiting for a working AppArmor to update. I’m not disabling it, or modifying the profile.

After 12 AM, but I think the bitrate is 1000 kb/s now. I had to copy the ffmpeg folder, rename ffmpeg, and make a script to modify the bitrate in the arguments. And then run the real ffmpeg with the modified bitrate.

Easier then modifying their source code.

cat ffmpeg
#!/bin/bash
testy="$@"
testy="${testy/-b:v 2000000/-b:v 1000000}"
testy="${testy/-maxrate 2000000/-maxrate 1000000}"
exec /server/node_modules/ffmpeg-static/ffmpeg.real $testy

When calling the real ffmpeg, don’t put quotes around it, or it will say unknown command or something. I use Podman, and put that folder on the host in ~/.scrypted/, and mounted that folder to /server/node_modules/ffmpeg-static.

I’m too lazy to try using Home Assistant, and say Agent DVR. Some article said you have to buy some Zigbee crap if you use Home Assistant, no idea why you need that for Home Kit. Probably bad info, and I should block that site on my DNS server. I’d have to find that site though, too much work.

Stream #0:0: Video: h264, yuvj420p(pc, progressive), 1280x720, q=2-31, 1000 kb/s, 30 fps, 90k tbn

That’s on the WiFi network, and the firewall rule is enabled, so even forcing it, when not needed. Fine with me, as long as it works remotely, without using shitty stream. You may need to modify the source, if you want it only for non local IPs. But it would do that, if they could. It sends it to the Apple TV. Which is local.

They should really add a max bitrate for local setting, so you don’t need that script. Maybe a plugin can be made to do it, but I’m lazy, so a bash script it is.

Update
Looks like Comcast is too shitty for 1000 kb/s. Got some pauses, and packet loss according to Scrypted. The video did resume though, before it seemed to pause and not resume.

I lowered it to 800 kb/s. If you go too low, you might as well use stream 2. Thanks Comcast, for a 10 Mbps upload. Glad the government pays for my internet. If they didn’t, I’d probably switch to some kind of cell internet. Not hard to beat a 10 Mbps upload speed. Too bad T-Mobile doesn’t allow unattended usage, so not really a good substitute.

And the new fan appears to be silent, not even noise when first turning on the Zero 2, like with the old fan. The dishwasher is running though, but you’d be able to hear the noise the other fan was randomly making. Didn’t seem to be making it as much. Maybe it just needed oil or something.

The case is eleUniverse Orange Pi Zero 2 Case N500, Metal Case with 5V 3010 Cooling Fan and 4pcs Aluminum Heatsinks & Antenna. The metal part is fine, but the fan is junk. Just 3D print a case instead, no point in buying that case. Well, I didn’t have a 3D printer when I bought it. And the 3D printer is waiting for parts.

Did the temperature go up? Not sure, it had a slight load after booting, so might need to wait a while to check again. Don’t know what the temperature was with the old fan right after booting. Might have increased by three degrees. Not enough to care.

The new fan has a long ass cable. I’m too lazy to do anything about that, like cut it and make it smaller. Just decreased one degree.

The replacement fan is a WINSINN 30mm Fan 5V, it came with five. You’ll have fun getting the fan out, they wrap all the cables for every fan together. You could just cut it and solder it back, after making it smaller. That brand of little fans seems fine, I think the same brand I have for the 3D printer, I broke a fan in the hotend. And they give you more then one, so you can just replace it, when it dies eventually. Hopefully not once a month.

And went back up to 37C, think the old fan was 34C before I shut it down. The load is only 26%.

The cable being so long, probably isn’t good for airflow. I had issues putting the case back together, the cable kept getting in the way of the USB port. Might be in the way, by the time I need to plug printer into it. Maybe then I’ll make the cable shorter. Probably not though, I’ll just move it out of the way, and plug printer in. It being plugged in, should prevent cable from getting in the way, good idea, plug the cable in, even though it isn’t plugged into printer.

Not sure the new screwdriver set has a stronger magnet. But at least I have all the bits, I don’t think any came broken.

The digital level thing works with rechargeable batteries, even though it says 1.5v on the back. My rechargeable AAA batteries are probably 1.2v. I save the non rechargeable batteries for stuff that won’t work with the rechargeable batteries. I plan on putting that on every corner of the printer, to make all corners match. That’ll be a while, I think the parts are coming from Canada. Hard to say though, the tracking is confusing. I don’t think USPS has it yet.

The magnetic screwdriver set is just a cheapo XOOL branded one. Don’t know what cheapo brand the old one is.

No tweezers today, she accidentally shipped them to Best Buy. Should have given her an Amazon link, they have the same ones. Comes with three different ones, some angled. Apparently if you ship it to Best Buy, instead of your home, it takes forever. They finally told her a little after 6 PM, that there was a delay. If she can’t pick it up tomorrow, I may just order it on Amazon, and she can get her $10 back.

I’ll remember that, and avoid buying anything from Best Buy, as if you accidentally ship it to the store, you’ll be waiting a long time. I don’t go inside stores very much anymore, too many people. More then 0, is too many.

Don’t bother with Scrypted NVR, the adaptive bitrate streaming, doesn’t work with the “local” stream, or maybe it does if it’s not transcoding. Not really local when you are at your mom’s. You get two days free, so I canceled it.

The 2000 kb/s must be hardcoded, so good luck changing it. Well, there is one way, not a great way though. Make a ffmpeg wrapper. And change it to 1000 kb/s.

And don’t bother trying to do cameras in Homebridge, I couldn’t get any video on my phone using it. Finally got Scrypted working again. Had to restart it, and reset the HomeKit again.

The default remote streaming bitrate, is 1000000, doesn’t say if that’s Kbps or what though. If it’s Kbps, that’s 1000 Mbps. They think it’s common to have 1000 Mbps upload speed?

Not in America, if using shitty Comcast, you get a whooping 10 Mbps.

I searched for packet loss for Scrypted, and they said to lower your remote bandwidth. If lowering the bitrate, doesn’t fix it, well you’ll have to guess what to do.

Search the console for the camera for “1000000” and find nothing. So don’t ask me what they do with that number. Multiply it by two perhaps? Nope, can’t find that either. Perhaps searching in a browser doesn’t work.

Copied it and pasted in a text editor, found “-maxrate 2000000”. So don’t set it to 6 either, if you have a 10 Mbps upload, the max you can set it to is 5, since it apparently thinks you have twice the bandwidth of the bitrate. I’ll set it to 3000.

You can easily test it, if your networks are isolated, disable firewall rule allowing access to the Apple TV or whatever is the home thing.

What’s funny, is on the cell network, everything is fine. The video likes pausing, if you get packet loss. Annoying.

And why does it need to transcode the low quality stream? Perhaps it’s set to. Medium resolution is, not low. Medium must be set to stream 2 as well.

I set the local stream to stream 2, because that’s the only way to change the main remote stream, otherwise it uses stream 1, must be hard coded. Didn’t fix it, probably because it’s transcoding the local stream, with more bitrate then the video has most likely, and the same format. Not sure what the point in that is. Guess you have to restart it after changing that setting, or you can’t change it.

The “-maxrate 2000000” is hard coded it looks like. So how do you lower the bandwidth then? No instructions are nice. Might as well ditch it, at this point.

Anybody know what “-maxrate” does? Well, the bitrate setting is useless, you can’t find 3000 or 6000 when searching the console log.

They claim it’s better then Homebridge, not for 10 Mbps upload speed. Thanks to it’s hard coded bull shit. “2000 kb/s” if that’s the case, what’s the problem? Oh right, it’s only 10 Mbps. That’s under 2000 kb/s. I should say “kB/s”.

How the fuck do you set that to a lower number? I guess you have to modify the source code. Switching to Homebridge is easier. Setting the transcoding max bitrate to 1000 doesn’t work either. I tried 100 in the past, I think it just reset to the huge number.

I think 2000 is set on the camera. I ain’t changing it on the camera, that works just fine for me. The videos that are saved to computer, look fine. The max bitrate is set to 2048 Kb/s on the camera.

It should work with the shitty stream, as the max is only 1024. And you have to apparently change it on camera, so no idea what the transcoding max bitrate is for. Adding -b:v 1M won’t do any good, you can thank the hard coded option that is after it.

Here you go. Maybe it’s only if you run in a container. If you put a k in the bitrate, it removes the k. And the workaround of restarting it right after, doesn’t work.

What database does it use? Going to edit the database file directly, or look in it. The extension is .ldb. NoSQL? SQLite? It needs a password, according to sqlitebrowser. Wonder what the password is. Not my user’s password. I shouldn’t have to brute force my own database.

If you want to fix it, the easiest way is to set the local stream and all other streams, to the low quality one, and disable transcoding, since you can’t change the max bitrate. Nice feature. Maybe the recording streams can be left alone, since I don’t use that, it’s all saved to my computer. Maybe if you delete all transcoding stuff and re add it, it’ll work right. That didn’t fix it, or maybe didn’t change the bit rate in the right place.

Well, I guess you could try rm -fr the entire folder and starting over. Not worth it.

“destination: ’local’”, too bad you can’t change that. I have no other WiFi to test it on. Maybe it thinks it’s local at her house too. In that case, good luck. Still local, using VPN.

You’ll have to edit the code to change what it thinks is local. Funny though, it’s connecting using Apple’s server, and it’s local.

And you have to upgrade to their NVR, if you want to fix it, or use stream 2, the lower quality one. Nice. It’s a money grab. All WiFi is believed to be local, and the bitrate is hard coded.

There is one other fix, run ffmpeg encoding the stream 24/7, or when it tries to access the encoding stream, but set it to whatever you want. You’d have to add it as a “camera” though. Might be a messy solution.

Now to see how much their NVR is. And maybe some other day, switch to Homebridge, since it might let me set the bitrate.

I just set the local to stream 2. That’ll fix it for now, looks like ass though.

Now you could fork the code, and allow that bitrate to be changed. Assuming it’s open source.

You do know I’m incredibly lazy though right? How much space do you get? Can’t even find pricing. $40 a year, but you store videos on your own computer. Not sure it’s worth paying for, just to be able to stream better quality.

But port forwarding is optional. I don’t trust it though, so only use the local part.

You might have to use the cloud thing to view your cameras remotely. Guess it doesn’t do HomeKit, with lower bitrates. Hmm, says it does on the main page after you login, so you don’t need their cloud.

You could make another VLAN, and put the server on it. Except, the Apple TV should be on same VLAN. And the drive I use is in desktop. You could still do it though. But too much work.

Maybe tomorrow I’ll pay for it, after I find out if I don’t have to use the cloud part. Or do the third option, custom ffmpeg encoding streaming. And add that as a camera. Not exactly a great solution.

But I can stop using FTP for the videos, if I get their NVR, and it can save as H265, cause I don’t want massive H264 files.

That’s why Walmart sucks. I learned my lesson, I won’t order any tool related stuff from them anymore. They don’t actually have protective glasses or goggles, or magnetic screwdrivers.

So you get to pay twice, until that “temporary” hold is gone. They really can’t update their shitty site and say they don’t have it? They still have it at the store, according to their site.

No idea how they had the rotary tool.

But don’t want their shitty magnetic screwdriver kit anyways. Doesn’t look like it has small enough bits, like the one I have. I threw one bit away, it broke, trying to get a nozzle out of a heat block. Then bent another one trying the same thing. No idea what bits they are, even if it says where it was/is. And I don’t know if you can buy bits that fit it. Also the magnet on it might not be that great.

So I ordered a shitty kit from Amazon instead.

Why does Walmart say it’s for electronics? Do they mean appliances? The kit on Amazon was cheaper as well.

And if the flex thing I bought for rotary tool doesn’t work with this rotary tool, I’ll regret buying the Walmart brand. No idea when I bought it, so may or may not be able to return it.

Don’t know if I’ll bother renewing Walmart+ next year, well it will auto renew I think, if I don’t cancel it. You can’t get good potatoes from them. Probably lots of other food you can’t get either. Paying for Safeway is a better deal, you get way better food choices.

Just don’t buy non food stuff anymore, like toilet paper. If the republicans get their way, everything will cost too much anyways, and there will be massive lines at every food bank. Don’t worry, they will blame the democrats, because Trump is the chosen one. Yet, Trump doesn’t believe Americans should have free will. So no idea what God chose him, clearly not the one I believe in.

If using Wayland + Distrobox, copy and pasting may not work correctly. No idea what it was pasting. Should paste in the user field, and see what it’s doing to password. Thought I tried manually typing it, but I think I was locked out.

Tried in Firefox a little while after I got up, logged in fine. Last night wouldn’t login in Vivaldi either. Didn’t try Firefox last night. Not really a fan of Vivaldi or any Chrome based browser. Only use it because Firefox has a nice new bug, that only affects me apparently, and I’m too lazy to report it. Or it’s a problem with X11, no idea. Not going to test it in Wayland though. Switching browsers back and fourth is too much work.

To copy and paste, use dotool. It isn’t in the openSUSE repo, so I had to run install.sh. That should work with X11 or Wayland. It basically types something for you.

sh -c 'sleep 5.0; echo type "$(wl-paste)" | dotool'

That works for me, you need wl-clipboard, which you can install with zypper.

Probably don’t need that in a script, an alias might work just fine. But I’m lazy so will leave it as is, even with the filename “paste_vnc”. Don’t need it for VNC anymore, don’t use it. But I’ll forget what it is, if I rename it.

Now I might need it, if I use a remote desktop from my Mac mini to my desktop. Kind of a pain switching the monitor and keyboard/mouse inputs. You would want to for a game.

Picture in picture on monitor, the window is too small, so not a great solution either. I only need it on the local network, don’t want it working over the internet.

And it looks like the Apple Remote Desktop uses VNC. Not sure I have a VNC client though. Looks like I do, I don’t remove stuff I’m not using, hoarding is nice.

And why do you need Remote Desktop? That might be Microsoft, one says Apple in the app store. Just enable screen sharing, built into macOS. But why was I using NoMachine? Probably for using my desktop, and possibly trying to play games or something. VNC might be good enough for what I do on Mac though. If playing a game, just switch inputs.

Nice scrollbars. Might be because of scaling in KDE using Wayland. And I’m too lazy to change it, I have to logout and back in, or the font might look bad. HiDPI not great over VNC, change it, some no scrollbars, but only slightly at native resolution. So make it full screen. And everything might be bigger over VNC at native resolution, nice. That’s some magic scaling.

Had to disconnect to get out of full screen. Luckily, macOS has an icon to do so. But might be a little slow, so maybe use NoMachine. For TigerVNC Viewer, click F8, you can get into full screen and out of it. I right clicked the window bar, and selected full screen from there the first time. NoMachine is compiled for Intel, bummer.

Maybe don’t use NoMachine on M1 Mac mini. See this. So my Mac mini doesn’t support everything it needs for encoding, nice. But other M1s do. Guess I bought the wrong Mac. So their download page is wrong, saying it’s Intel.

NoMachine seems to work great. Looks good enough. HiDPI might look slightly worse though, if you care, just change the resolution, or tell it to match the window.

And I didn’t allow the server part on my desktop to access the network, so it didn’t want to shutdown, also not sure –stop is right. Just allow it outgoing access, then run sudo /usr/NX/bin/nxserver –shutdown –start-mode manual. Then delete rule for it, so it can’t access internet or anything else anymore. I don’t need to remotely connect to the desktop. Not really remote anyways. Same network, just different computer.

The endstops I ordered are too small, or it isn’t an endstop.

I did update the firmware on the screen. You have to remove the back of the screen housing to get to micro SD slot.

If it isn’t an endstop what is it called? The photo isn’t sharp enough to see the numbers or whatever. I’d have to remove printer from tent, and remove whatever it is again, to see.

If you hold the button down, you can level it, so if running it, you just have to hold the button down the entire time. Perhaps it’s supposed to be pushed down. I was able to reattach the metal thing, without glue, it goes back on. Don’t know how to make it pushed down permanently though. Probably don’t have a photo of it before it I broke it.

Oh and my right hand/fingers are broken. I can use an Allen wrench with my left hand, no problem. Right hand, not so much. Guess I should become left handed.

I found one number, that I can read. Not sure the other number is what I want anyways.

Or do you use two of the boards together? Well, you need to plug whichever board’s button is clickable. I guess you could glue it to broken board maybe. Still won’t be long enough, to plug it into the right board. You could plug it in before assembling it. Limit switch might be what it’s called.

Some parts site calls it that, but that one is too small. They don’t list parts for the Neo, but they do for Ender 3 V2.

You could desolder it, and solder onto the other board, but the board itself might have a problem.

Creality probably doesn’t sell it, at least not if you search for endstop.

So possibly the one part you can’t replace. Is it possible the board itself is broken? Or it just the switch? If just the switch, you can probably replace just that part. If you look at the photo, almost looks like it’s missing something.

You can find the photos here, screen photo too.

If you open in GIMP, it will be rotated correctly, just select keep, don’t rotate. Probably in the EXIF data.

Perhaps CRI-411V10 is the number I want, that’s what it looks like to me. Not on Amazon. Can’t find anything anywhere for that. Maybe you can replace just the end, 25T125 perhaps that’s right.

Not sure it’ll work with a smaller switch, like the ones I bought. You might be able to unscrew it. Nice video, how to replace it, but not how to buy it. Guess you can only get it if you email them. They will want a video and receipt, even if you want to pay for the part.

And you don’t have to buy parts from a third party, see here, they couldn’t give me those links eh. If you don’t want to go to Reddit, the links are below too.

https://vip.creality.com/en/exploded-view-detail/109
https://vip.creality.com/en/exploded-view-detail/110
https://vip.creality.com/en/exploded-view-detail/111
https://vip.creality.com/en/exploded-view-detail/112

The second link has the “X-axis_Limit Switch”. I’ll order two, so I don’t have to find the links again, or better, bookmark all four links. Well, still ordering two. You can get just the Heating Block as well, the only part I needed.

Going to get the Heating Block too. MOQ 50, LOL. Is that minimum order quantity? If so, those links are 100% useless. Or maximum? Says nothing about shipping. Now to email, to find out shipping.

If they won’t let me buy it, I’ll look up using info from invoice.

The SKU for the X-axis_Limit Switch is 2101030116. And 3205030055 for the Heating Block.

Search DuckDuckGo, and you’ll find it. At least the switch. Here is a Canadian site. The other site might be in Europe, Canada is closer.

Might cancel and order from that site. Or not, $23.12 for shipping. Not enough money in checking.

You get two days to pay from Creality. But if the shipping is $20 or so, and coming from China, I’ll pass. Might as well, get it from Canada.

And the Europe site, would be around $70 total, thanks to almost $50 shipping. Perhaps less, if you don’t get Heating Block and maybe only one switch. Nope, shipping is still almost $50.

I looked up MOQ, and the M is minimum. So those links aren’t for buying stuff, unless you want 50 of each item. So hopefully you have a grand or more to spend. If I had that much, I’d buy a new printer.

3dprintingusa.com has cheaper shipping, but the actual product costs more. Almost $30 for two switches. And I think it’s shipped from Canada. Not sure why they put USA in the site name. Here is the switch. DuckDuckGo can’t find everything for some reason, probably because it sucks. I found a link to the switch on that site on Reddit, which Reddit did find. No idea why it can’t find the actual site directly though.

Shipping might be the same for just one switch, might as well get two. Oh and searching their site for “Ender 3 V2 Neo” won’t find everything for it, like that switch.

Can’t order till tomorrow though. Need to cancel the order from Creality, but I can’t login, they don’t allow very long passwords, so who knows what the password is, it was generated. Couldn’t reset it on my phone, said something in Chinese, so might just let it cancel itself. Looks like their mobile site, may have only showed one password field, nice site. When resetting it. A heat block increased the cheapest shipping from $10 to $12, and the faster shipping from $12 to $15. Don’t really need the heat block, but if the nozzle breaks in it again, I will.

I do not recommend Creality printers, as you can’t easily buy certain parts. Good luck finding it on Amazon.

If I had a working 3D printer, I could print this and use the wrong part. I might see if I can get it printed some how. Might be better on PETG though. It uses the same limit switch as that printer, so might work, don’t care about webcam mount. You can probably pay to get it printed.

Good idea, buy another printer, so I can print a part. And then send other printer back. I’ll be sure to buy from Creality on Amazon, and if they ask why I returned it, I’ll say to print something to fix my printer, as they make it almost impossible to buy a fucking limit switch.

Now I can see the temperature in my apartment, when not home. It’s a Govee Hygrometer Thermometer H5075. Had to use a USB Bluetooth adapter though, on the Orange Pi 5, it’s the old Pi 5 with no Bluetooth or WiFi. I should have waited for the new one, that I knew nothing about, or don’t recall anyways.

Luckily, it has a USB 2.0 port, so I can save the USB C port for an external drive. One USB C port is for power only. Didn’t need to open the USB C adapters packaging, I realized after opening it, that it has a USB 2.0 port. I looked on their site to see what ports it has, cause I’m too lazy to look at it. Must have glanced at USB 2.0. But didn’t remember the Bluetooth adapter is 2.0.

Well, that USB Bluetooth adapter is good for something, not good for earbuds.

It rounds up like a dick. It should show .x instead.

You might still want their shitty app, if you want to log all the data. Maybe there’s a way to do that without that app, but I’m lazy.

It’s a plugin for Homebridge. Somebody said it works with Home Assistant, so looked for a plugin for Homebridge. And found one.

There’s a review that says you need to re calibrate after changing batteries. I just make it match my other thermometer, pretty much matches without any adjustment to temperature, or it did. The humidity isn’t right, and can’t be made right I guess. It’ll match for a while, then it won’t.

Well, I’d need to keep other thermometer in the room, longer.

If you want .x, use Home Widget. The free version seems to be fine. No idea what you get if you pay for it, life time is only $10. I won’t be spending anymore money until the 1st though. And I need almost $200 to buy AnyStream.

Apparently Apple didn’t add widgets for Home to iOS yet.

The Apple Watch is a dick, every time it updates, it turns Private Address back on, there goes it’s assigned IP address, and it’s internet connection. Why would I want that on my home network? Yes, people can sniff the air, but I don’t care. It doesn’t even connect to WiFi most of the time, so I should just disable WiFi on it. Not even sure why it has WiFi, since it barely uses it.

The part for the 3D printer came today, but too late to do it tonight. Maybe tomorrow.

Perhaps I should get another one of those thermometers, and put it in fridge.

They said they set it up without any Govee account. But this plugin wants a device ID, or login info for Govee. I just entered my login info, as I have no idea what the device ID is, or I didn’t, the app might know now though. Didn’t see it in the official app. And if you don’t use an app, you can’t set it to only allow yourself to manage it. I don’t need my calibrating getting changed constantly. I don’t care if they can see the temperature.

It’s in C on the Homebridge interface in a browser, but in Home it’s in F. No idea if you can change it on the Homebridge interface.

Guess I can have a widget for my camera too now. Not really enough room on home screen, already lost the weather. I could just move all the apps to a new page. And make the entire page widgets. Or maybe you need premium for that. And you’ll probably be paying for it, only 10 actions a day, I assume refreshing is an action. So I should use that up pretty quickly.

Don’t use Windows junk? There’s a Linux and Mac version of AnyStream here. Don’t download from the forum post, it’s outdated, but follow the instructions for Linux Mint, if using Ubuntu or Mint.

PLAYON.tv is Windows only. Finally found a program that works in other operating systems.

The old RPM didn’t work in openSUSE. But I think I should try the .tar.gz and see if it works.

I downloaded one thing from Paramount+. Looks like no commercials in it, I have whatever plan Walmart+ gives me.

The scrolling left and right doesn’t work right, you can search though, if you know what you want. Perhaps because I’m using Wayland. Ubuntu is in Distrobox. I might try the Mac version to see if the scrolling works right, up and down works though.

And I won’t be buying it for a while, the lifetime version isn’t cheap, but no subscription, so who cares.

Now, you can change your machine ID or whatever it uses, and get unlimited trials. But that is kind of crappy to do. They support non Windows operating systems, so support them. If nobody buys it, then they probably won’t continue making it better, like adding more streaming providers.

I was accidentally running it with Firejail. It’s using a sh file to open a browser, which uses Firejail, which Ubuntu doesn’t have, possibly openSUSE doesn’t have either. I don’t need Firejail, AppArmor is good enough. Now how do I change the default app? Cause it’s already changed in KDE.

Well, it might be messed up, because I had to install gnome-shell. Downloading tar.gz to see if it works, and doesn’t want Firejail.

./AnyStream: error while loading shared libraries: libjbig.so.0: cannot open shared object file: No such file or directory

Good luck. You’ll have to compile that yourself I guess. You can install libjbig-devel, but not sure that’ll work.

The macOS version is better, most likely. I could go into X11 and see if it works better, but I’m lazy. KDE is buggy in Wayland, or Wayland is buggy.

“Failed to load client buffer integration: “wayland-egl”” maybe that’s the problem. Is this a 32bit program? Still says that after installing libwayland-egl1-32bit. But scrolling is working now, so who cares. Perhaps I just needed to restart the program.

And you don’t need that to fix scrolling, uninstalled it, and still works. Only 159 EUR, still better then a subscription and/or Windows only program. I’ll spend all my money on different stuff though. I don’t really need to download anything from those streaming services anyways. I do need to convert what it downloaded, the file seems kind of big.

H264, there’s the problem, H265 is smaller, need to use Mac mini for that though. I might be able to use GPU on Linux desktop, but not with HandBrake. Unless something’s changed, and I’m lazy.

Update
Awesome program. I’ll buy it as soon as I can, probably the lifetime version.

And I might cancel my subscription for some Apple TV app, might only be $10 per year, but I can just use Channels DVR, instead of Jellyfin. Would be nice, if the info wasn’t just the filename though. Is there a way to fix that? I don’t care enough to use Jellyfin, not even sure it shows the write title either, might just be the filename.

The Orange Pi 5 isn’t good for hardware encoding, if you want to use ffmpeg. So the slow Raspberry Pi 4 is good for something.

I’ll get the plus version. That supports all current and future streaming services, the cheaper one is limited.

Would be better if it says you watched it or not though, as it is, you’d have to go on Netflix to see.

The scroll bug seems to only be after logging into a service, restarting it seems to fix it, perhaps changing the tab does as well, didn’t try.

Cheaper then a tap and die kit, that might not work anyways. And heat set inserts, are metal I think. So you ain’t screwing into plastic.

But you could print plastic screws. Not the best idea for some stuff.

These are only $15. But can you in the future buy just the inserts? So you don’t get a massive collection of soldering iron tips? Hmm, I like hoarding.

No idea if it’ll work with my old Harbor Freight soldering iron, and I won’t buy that till next month. Or after the printer works. I’ll buy a new iron if I need one. That’s only the tips? Bummer. I need the inserts too.

You can get the inserts on Amazon, and probably the tips too. But those tips are better, and I think I bought my case on Tindie, so I’ll get the tips on there.

Instructions for threading holes in 3D printed models.

Perhaps just buy the tips on Amazon. Same seller, and cheaper, nice.

Wtf is #4-40? Apparently small. So might need that too, or perhaps just that. But get em all, so I can not use glue, and screw my parts together. Nothing like screwing a sex doll.

Why did I ask for gloves if I’m not going to use gorilla glue? Perhaps use glue for something else. Like stuff that doesn’t need screws. You don’t want screws on your massive 3D printed dick.

The Lockdown app, not the thing built into iOS. DuckDuckGo, sure thinks I’m searching for the built in thing though, add firewall, and you can find the actual app. Maybe add “third party app that uses VPN”.

But does AdGuard use a VPN if you configure the system wide blocking? Instructions here. It’s a one time purchase, well that’s an option. Lockdown wants me to pay to have more features, and it can’t even block Jetpack Stats.

I did buy Roadblock for iOS, which was only $2 one time. It blocks Jetpack Stats, and you can add custom rules. So it works with the free Lockdown, for Safari anyways. The other content block I was using, sucks, you can’t add custom rules. Think I paid for it a long time ago, but deleted it, and replaced with Roadblock. Used the old Roadblock on macOS, it had issues, no idea if it was ever fixed. And haven’t and probably won’t try the new version in macOS, just don’t use Safari, and there’s plenty of free blockers.

I can’t use my AdGuard DNS when not at home. I’m not managing a server to run an AdGuard DNS server on, that is not managing a public server. If any ports are open, it’s public.

But I think I’m ditching Lockdown, I don’t like crippled apps, because I don’t want a subscription.

Oh but I can use my VPN providers app, without paying anything else, and get blocking. But don’t think it has custom blocking of any kind.

If it doesn’t use a VPN, it’s superior to Lockdown. You’d think a VPN would use more resources, if it’s just a local DNS server, perhaps it uses less. Paying $12 or whatever once is also better. Also, might tell you more info about what’s happening then Lockdown. Does it show non filtered stuff too? So you can easily filter it? Perhaps filter everything, just use a * in the list.

And it looks like for free, you can add custom domains, but not lists. Crippled app, unless you pay a subscription. In Lockdown. So I may not have needed to buy Roadblock. But the other content blocker was very minimal. And if something annoys you on a site, you can block it. Blocking a domain, may not be what you want. If you just want to hide everything republicans say on the internet. Now you can start with blocking FakeSocial, he calls it TruthSocial or something.

There’s a block list in Lockdown, but no list of everything. Should have deleted my Lockdown account, before deleting app though. Too lazy to reinstall and sign in and delete account.

Around $14 after tax for AdGuard, I guess it’s $13 before tax. And it uses a VPN, but a split tunnel VPN, so I can use my VPN app with it. Or you can change to full VPN, and not use it with other VPN apps. Need to go on my DNS server and get the lists I use.

I’m too lazy to turn it on and off when home. So double condoms for me.

And I think it said it can block annoyances, so I may not have needed to pay for Roadblock, but only $2, so who cares. The more protection the better. Protection from ads using my data.

Good news, you can disable DNS for some WiFi networks. But is it really using a split VPN? Can’t use my VPN provider’s app, and AdGuard at the same time, changes to disabled for AdGuard.

I don’t use the VPN on my phone very often anyways.

But you can easily block stuff on a page in Safari with it, you tap an element, anywhere on the page. I did find where Roadblock is in Safari, thanks to AdGuard. But it’s useless I think, no element picker possibly. But for Roadblock, buy the Mac version, and sync the rules. Unless Mac version doesn’t sync with it, in that case getting the selector to block, might require using a computer, and typing it in. Too much work.

If Apple ever is forced to allow sideloading in the US, perhaps they can make the app not need a VPN. And then your VPN will work with it.

Think it was over 70 days, maybe 75 days. UrBackup was only backing up at 3 MB/s or so. I installed it using Distrobox, the easiest way to do so, if you look at the installer script, it says the paths are hard coded in binaries. So it won’t work, installing to your home folder. But you can use distrobox-export while in the container, and then copy the service file for UrBackup, and edit the start command, and comment out the user line. It works, because I stopped the container, and enabled the service, and it’s running again. Instead of resuming the backup, it started over though, faster then 3 MB/s so far.

Before turning the Deck off, I tried copying to the micro SD card, and that was fine. Then I tried reading from it, and that was 3 MB/s or so. Perhaps this PNY micro SD card isn’t that great, says speeds up to 100 MB/s, on the Amazon page, probably the read speed. Why would the write speed be faster then the read speed? Makes zero sense. I even tried with the container off, so no UrBackup running.

Also, the Steam Deck got slow. Guess a slow micro SD card slows everything down, including stuff not on it.

I changed stuff in CryoUtilities on the Deck, didn’t click the recommended button though. I also increased the VRAM, probably won’t matter for UrBackup, but might make some games happy. I only increased the SWAP to 4 GB. Limited amount of free space on the internal drive. I changed the swappiness to 25. Clicked all the buttons under memory or whatever, even though I don’t know what any of it is really.

Mostly had CryoUtilities for easily moving game data to the micro SD card. Not really needed, you can just run “ln -s” and do it manually.

When testing the read speed after booting it, it was only 30 MB/s or so. It’s backing up around 40 MB/s right now, that’s better then what Dolphin was copying a file at. Perhaps if there was more free space, it would read faster.

I’ll fix the problem, if I ever get my 3D printer working. There’s a 3D model, you can modify, and perhaps fit a NVMe enclosure on it. I should print it out and measure it. Or perhaps the printer program says how big it is. Need a USB hub with Type-C input power, and a power bank as well. Or maybe skip the power bank, but if not home, without USB hub, you won’t be able to charge and use drive at the same time.

You can just layer it, so stuff is on top of each other, not directly, modify the 3D model. Might be too heavy though. I refuse to open the Steam Deck. I also refuse to buy a 1 TB micro SD card. I already have a bunch of stuff to buy. So no NVMe enclosure + drive until July at the soonest. Unless I sell stuff at her yard sale.

Apparently you can’t thread a hole with a rotary tool, DuckDuckGo won’t find anything useful if you search, so I gave up. You can do it manually with a tap and die kit. I need metric though, inches suck.

If you tell me 1/8, I won’t know what you are talking about, now if you tell me mm, I’ll have a better chance. I don’t use confusing measurements, like inches. Then again, the measurement of a cock in inches, I might know. But that isn’t fractions. Unless the cock is only 1mm, which is 3/64 in inches. 1mm must be a tiny dick. Do you need a magnifying glass to see it?

The Steam Deck was also refusing to lock the screen. So I guess it crapped out, for trying to backup the micro SD card.

I don’t recommend Creality, on one product, they are violating open source licenses. I won’t name the product though. And apparently Creality and SKR boards suck. Don’t ask me if the TH3D EZBoard V2+ fits in the Ender 3 V2 Neo, doesn’t say it’s supported, so I guess not. Nobody asked about the Ender 3 V2 Neo, maybe some other Neo. They said it would with a different screen.

So I basically bought a printer, that can’t print right out of the box. And I’m gonna be pissed if the endstop or whatever doesn’t fix it. I’ll open the back of the screen, once the endstop comes. And update it’s firmware. Unless it has no micro SD card. I’ll put the easy third party firmware on it, if I have the right screen. Unified 2 Firmware, I already installed the MS VSCode crap. I used the snap.

I will replace the power supply eventually, hopefully not next month though. Need to measure it. Apparently they use cloned power supplies. I’d rather have the original real one.

And that EZBoard is around $100. So if I need a new board, that won’t happen for a while. You can buy a screen that’ll work for the firmware on the same site.

At least I’ll have tweezers, by the time I need a new board. Assuming I can grip the tweezers without a problem, they should come in handy, for lots of stuff. In fact, I won’t use my bare fingers for much electronic stuff anymore, not even my desktop. I like being able to see what I’m doing.

There’s this for the Steam Deck, you don’t need to print anything. But you probably won’t be putting a hub, power bank, and NVMe enclosure on the back of Steam Deck with that. You need apartments or shelves, might be too heavy though, and hard to hold. Make sure the NVMe is on top, and a fan somewhere. Power bank could use a fan too, who cares about the hub.

Don’t ask me how to open .stp files. You might need something I don’t have, and ain’t paying for.

Tries to open, but then closes. Might work from the terminal, that is not using the GUI. If you run flatpak run com.github.mtkennerly.ludusavi –help, you’ll see the commands you can use.

So I guess no GUI for openSUSE users, at least not with an AMD GPU and the latest kernel provided.

If I have to use it without the GUI, I might as well backup some other way. UrBackup should be backing all my saves up anyways. And it’s not limited to certain games.

Now to see if I can get UrBackup on my Steam Deck. Maybe don’t backup the actual game though, just the save data, and maybe Distrobox. UrBackup might have deduplication though, so I guess it doesn’t matter if I back the games up as well. It’s already backing up most of my games from my desktop.

Or maybe it doesn’t work with X11? That’s a bummer.

Psensor doesn’t work with Wayland, well not completely, you can’t minimize it to the tray. You have to keep the window open.

Says it only needs OpenGL.

Does absolutely nothing in Wayland, and good news, Psensor works in Wayland. And there’s only one icon for Psensor if you use Wayland, I had two icons in X11, no idea why. I guess they thought I’d move to Wayland, since somebody fixed it. Clicking the X doesn’t close it, it’s in the tray.

Now I wonder if Firefox doesn’t have the bug I had in the past, well I’d need to test in X11 as well. I haven’t tested it lately, and there’s been updates.

Perhaps that’s why the Firefox bug doesn’t affect very many people, most are using Wayland now.

And changing the scale makes text look bad, but is fine in X11. No idea what the scale was in X11. Got to logout and back in with X11 to see. But first, I got to see how to make font look better.

So change the font DPI instead? Or change from slight smoothing to full maybe. Well, got to logout anyways, only newly opened stuff will use the new font DPI.

Well, it might be fine now, font DPI in X11 is 120, so set that in Wayland, and scaling is 125% in X11, so set that in Wayland too. And then logged out and back in.

So you might be able to use it with a 4k monitor. My monitor only does 1440p on DisplayPort, apparently 4k on the HDMI port, at least the Mac mini can use it’s “fake” 4k. The monitor says it only works with the PS4 Pro, it works with my Mac mini, and gives me more resolution choices, the HiDPI.

I don’t report bugs, I only complain. That’s why the Firefox bug never got reported, it only affects one person, and I switched my browser. I use it for watching YouToot, if I want subtitles in the picture in picture window.

Nice KDE just reloaded something, after I cleared my clipboard. The entire thing on bottom disappeared then came back. The panel, with the menu and tray.

How is this better then X11? You can apparently crash it very easily. Didn’t work that time, good luck reproducing that feature. Might be KDE and not Wayland itself.

Using “–env=LUDUSAVI_DEBUG=1” with Flatpak is useless, doesn’t show anything, it just doesn’t work.

Oh Firewall is probably blocking it. Too bad OpenSnitch doesn’t popup when opening it.

flatpak run –env=RUST_LOG=ludusavi=debug –env=LUDUSAVI_DEBUG=1 com.github.mtkennerly.ludusavi manifest update asks for internet, but still won’t open after doing that. There’s a log file, perhaps that’s where the debug crap goes, but nothing useful in it, so good luck.

[2023-05-28T03:22:17.644Z] DEBUG [ludusavi] Version: 0.18.2
[2023-05-28T03:22:17.651Z] DEBUG [ludusavi::gui::app] Config on startup: Config { runtime: Runtime { threads: None }, manifest: ManifestConfig { url: "https://raw.githubusercontent.com/mtkennerly/ludusavi-manifest/master/data/manifest.yaml" }, language: English, theme: Light, roots: [RootsConfig { path: StrictPath { raw: "/home/asshole/.local/share/Steam", basis: None }, store: Steam }, RootsConfig { path: StrictPath { raw: "/media/fast_games/steam", basis: None }, store: Steam }], redirects: [], backup: BackupConfig { path: StrictPath { raw: "/home/asshole/ludusavi-backup", basis: None }, ignored_games: {}, filter: BackupFilter { exclude_store_screenshots: false, ignored_paths: [], ignored_registry: [] }, toggled_paths: ToggledPaths({}), toggled_registry: ToggledRegistry({}), sort: Sort { key: Status, reversed: false }, retention: Retention { full: 1, differential: 0 }, format: BackupFormats { chosen: Simple, zip: ZipConfig { compression: Deflate }, compression: Compression { deflate: DeflateCompression { level: 6 }, bzip2: Bzip2Compression { level: 6 }, zstd: ZstdCompression { level: 10 } } } }, restore: RestoreConfig { path: StrictPath { raw: "/home/asshole/ludusavi-backup", basis: None }, ignored_games: {}, sort: Sort { key: Status, reversed: false } }, scan: Scan { show_deselected_games: true, show_unchanged_games: true, show_unscanned_games: true }, cloud: Cloud { remote: None, path: "ludusavi-backup", synchronize: true }, apps: Apps { rclone: App { path: StrictPath { raw: "", basis: None }, arguments: "" } }, custom_games: [] }

Wrong time too. Can it not access /media/fast_games or something? So just silently crash. Not really worth using in that case.

flatpak override –user –filesystem=/media com.github.mtkennerly.ludusavi still doesn’t work.

Maybe it only works with –system, therefore not worth using.

If you are wondering, the Steam Deck appears to emulator the Switch just fine. My Switch is probably worth more then I paid, an original one that is easy to hack. But I’ll keep it, a hacked Switch is great fun.

Now how do you sync emulator game saves without Ludusavi? You can add custom games to it, but it won’t open. Use some other game backup thing I guess. Or manually do it with scripts. Or if you are always able to access shares on your desktop, ln -s the folder to the desktop. Can’t always access the share, like if I take the Deck somewhere. Maybe MEGA can sync the folder across multiple devices. You can run it with Distrobox. Kind of a pain though. Not enough space on micro SD card for much else anyways. I don’t want to buy a 1 TB micro SD card. Got a pile of stuff I need to buy.

Not sure I’d trust MEGA, the iPad and iPhone app will backup your device photos and videos to the same folder, change it on one device, and changes on all devices. Pretty much useless. Good enough for my pictures though. But I should look for a new backup method for my remote backup. Forcing every device to backup to the same folder for their photos and videos is lame. At least ones that require an App Store. You can do more with the MEGA app in Linux.

The scaling in Wayland must be different then X11, as I think everything is bigger then X11 now. Too lazy to mess with it.

You might get in trouble modifying this for a NVMe USB enclosure. Or maybe you just can’t share it. And perhaps a different site has something for a NVMe enclosure. Not opening Steam Deck, unless the battery dies. Or something else dies.

Perhaps modify this instead. I think I can use my rotary tool as a drill, so drill holes for the NVMe enclosure. That won’t work too well, it doesn’t have holes, bummer. Don’t make a jacket for it, it gets hot.

And how do you charge without a dock and keeping the NVMe enclosure plugged in? The battery life sucks, so you’ll probably need to charge it.

And their Fusion 360 file is useless, that’s expensive, no thanks. So modify the STL file instead.

Cheaper to buy a big NVMe enclosure, then a shitty micro SD card. Unless you want to risk micro SD card dying. Do they make 2 TB micro SD cards? My Kingston 2 TB NVMe seems fine, can be slow, but who cares, faster then micro SD.

I have gloves now, so can use gorilla glue, tweezers aren’t coming till next Saturday though. Does gorilla glue keep stuff glued together? Somebody said if you glue 3D printed stuff, it’ll come undone in a couple of months. Not sure that’s true. Find some way to attach the enclosure to that, and you don’t need to modify it. Make sure the enclosure is the right way, or it’ll get too hot. Looks like mine says Plugable on the top, so glue the other side to that.

NVMe is smaller then SATA SSD. Smaller is better, that’s what she didn’t say.

Only $85 for the 2 TB Kingston NVMe SSD I have now. Cheaper then some 1 TB micro SD cards. The cheapest real 1 TB micro SD card on Amazon is probably Silicon Power. $65.97 it looks like. But their smaller cards, are easy to kill on accident, so wouldn’t want to lose 1 TB of data. The Switch has a Silicon Power I think, 500 GB or 512 GB. But I’m very careful with it.

How much is a 4 TB micro SD card? A Kingston 4 TB NVMe is $205. But you can get a USB Type-C hub, and plug in lots of NVMe enclosures, well if there’s enough power. Can you power the hub with a power bank and charge the Deck with it?

So basically, get a USB Type-C dock, with Type-C power input, or any power input that a power bank can provide, and maybe modify the dock so it’s smaller. Or just look for the smallest one you can find. More like a hub, with power input. Or look for a hub with the right power input.

I know how to modify that deck accessory holder thingy, add a condom compartment. For the condoms you’ll never use. Just forget the NVMe enclosure idea, and make the entire thing a condom container. But open all the condoms, so people think they are used. You can hand them out at a conservative parade.

How much power does the Deck need? 85 watts or less? Anker has a Type-C hub with Type-C power input, but the power output is only 85 watts. 45 watts, what power bank will do that? Probably not any I have. 15 volts, nice. Maybe only when playing. Even playing porn? When there’s no internet or electricity, I’m gonna play porn on it. Homemade porn that is. Or Stable Diffusion porn.

So I need a 45 watt PD power bank? Might be easier to use my Power Station, just put it on my back instead of the Steam Deck. Anker appears to make one, for $100, 45 watt PD.

Bad review says it charges it “well” while playing the Deck. Bad review because only 1.5 charges, and they paid $150. I wouldn’t pay $150 for any power bank. I got a massive Power Station, I’d rather use.

1.5 times is plenty, as I only need 1. How long does the battery last? 3 hours? Well, then I don’t need one. Where am I going for 3+ hours? To the bathroom maybe, but there’s plug in there, and I can even bring my Power Station in there.

The dimensions for that hub are in inches, I don’t know inches. And don’t know dimensions of that 3D file either. I’ll add it to wish list anyways, probably won’t buy it though. Maybe in a couple months. After I finish rebuilding 3D printer.

Will that hub work with under 100 watts? 45 watts might not be enough for Deck + NVMe enclosure, while playing.

Those power banks are probably too big anyways. 140 watt output for $160, and looks kind of cool. But if it won’t fit on the back of deck, use a power cord. Good idea, since there’s usually power where I go, buy another charger to bring with me. And hub, so the NVMe can be plugged in at the same time. I can always bring my Power Station. And a solar panel.