After 12 AM, but I think the bitrate is 1000 kb/s now. I had to copy the ffmpeg folder, rename ffmpeg, and make a script to modify the bitrate in the arguments. And then run the real ffmpeg with the modified bitrate.

Easier then modifying their source code.

cat ffmpeg
#!/bin/bash
testy="$@"
testy="${testy/-b:v 2000000/-b:v 1000000}"
testy="${testy/-maxrate 2000000/-maxrate 1000000}"
exec /server/node_modules/ffmpeg-static/ffmpeg.real $testy

When calling the real ffmpeg, don’t put quotes around it, or it will say unknown command or something. I use Podman, and put that folder on the host in ~/.scrypted/, and mounted that folder to /server/node_modules/ffmpeg-static.

I’m too lazy to try using Home Assistant, and say Agent DVR. Some article said you have to buy some Zigbee crap if you use Home Assistant, no idea why you need that for Home Kit. Probably bad info, and I should block that site on my DNS server. I’d have to find that site though, too much work.

Stream #0:0: Video: h264, yuvj420p(pc, progressive), 1280x720, q=2-31, 1000 kb/s, 30 fps, 90k tbn

That’s on the WiFi network, and the firewall rule is enabled, so even forcing it, when not needed. Fine with me, as long as it works remotely, without using shitty stream. You may need to modify the source, if you want it only for non local IPs. But it would do that, if they could. It sends it to the Apple TV. Which is local.

They should really add a max bitrate for local setting, so you don’t need that script. Maybe a plugin can be made to do it, but I’m lazy, so a bash script it is.

And the new fan appears to be silent, not even noise when first turning on the Zero 2, like with the old fan. The dishwasher is running though, but you’d be able to hear the noise the other fan was randomly making. Didn’t seem to be making it as much. Maybe it just needed oil or something.

The case is eleUniverse Orange Pi Zero 2 Case N500, Metal Case with 5V 3010 Cooling Fan and 4pcs Aluminum Heatsinks & Antenna. The metal part is fine, but the fan is junk. Just 3D print a case instead, no point in buying that case. Well, I didn’t have a 3D printer when I bought it. And the 3D printer is waiting for parts.

Did the temperature go up? Not sure, it had a slight load after booting, so might need to wait a while to check again. Don’t know what the temperature was with the old fan right after booting. Might have increased by three degrees. Not enough to care.

The new fan has a long ass cable. I’m too lazy to do anything about that, like cut it and make it smaller. Just decreased one degree.

The replacement fan is a WINSINN 30mm Fan 5V, it came with five. You’ll have fun getting the fan out, they wrap all the cables for every fan together. You could just cut it and solder it back, after making it smaller. That brand of little fans seems fine, I think the same brand I have for the 3D printer, I broke a fan in the hotend. And they give you more then one, so you can just replace it, when it dies eventually. Hopefully not once a month.

And went back up to 37C, think the old fan was 34C before I shut it down. The load is only 26%.

The cable being so long, probably isn’t good for airflow. I had issues putting the case back together, the cable kept getting in the way of the USB port. Might be in the way, by the time I need to plug printer into it. Maybe then I’ll make the cable shorter. Probably not though, I’ll just move it out of the way, and plug printer in. It being plugged in, should prevent cable from getting in the way, good idea, plug the cable in, even though it isn’t plugged into printer.

Not sure the new screwdriver set has a stronger magnet. But at least I have all the bits, I don’t think any came broken.

The digital level thing works with rechargeable batteries, even though it says 1.5v on the back. My rechargeable AAA batteries are probably 1.2v. I save the non rechargeable batteries for stuff that won’t work with the rechargeable batteries. I plan on putting that on every corner of the printer, to make all corners match. That’ll be a while, I think the parts are coming from Canada. Hard to say though, the tracking is confusing. I don’t think USPS has it yet.

The magnetic screwdriver set is just a cheapo XOOL branded one. Don’t know what cheapo brand the old one is.

No tweezers today, she accidentally shipped them to Best Buy. Should have given her an Amazon link, they have the same ones. Comes with three different ones, some angled. Apparently if you ship it to Best Buy, instead of your home, it takes forever. They finally told her a little after 6 PM, that there was a delay. If she can’t pick it up tomorrow, I may just order it on Amazon, and she can get her $10 back.

I’ll remember that, and avoid buying anything from Best Buy, as if you accidentally ship it to the store, you’ll be waiting a long time. I don’t go inside stores very much anymore, too many people. More then 0, is too many.

Don’t bother with Scrypted NVR, the adaptive bitrate streaming, doesn’t work with the “local” stream, or maybe it does if it’s not transcoding. Not really local when you are at your mom’s. You get two days free, so I canceled it.

The 2000 kb/s must be hardcoded, so good luck changing it. Well, there is one way, not a great way though. Make a ffmpeg wrapper. And change it to 1000 kb/s.

And don’t bother trying to do cameras in Homebridge, I couldn’t get any video on my phone using it. Finally got Scrypted working again. Had to restart it, and reset the HomeKit again.

The default remote streaming bitrate, is 1000000, doesn’t say if that’s Kbps or what though. If it’s Kbps, that’s 1000 Mbps. They think it’s common to have 1000 Mbps upload speed?

Not in America, if using shitty Comcast, you get a whooping 10 Mbps.

I searched for packet loss for Scrypted, and they said to lower your remote bandwidth. If lowering the bitrate, doesn’t fix it, well you’ll have to guess what to do.

Search the console for the camera for “1000000” and find nothing. So don’t ask me what they do with that number. Multiply it by two perhaps? Nope, can’t find that either. Perhaps searching in a browser doesn’t work.

Copied it and pasted in a text editor, found “-maxrate 2000000”. So don’t set it to 6 either, if you have a 10 Mbps upload, the max you can set it to is 5, since it apparently thinks you have twice the bandwidth of the bitrate. I’ll set it to 3000.

You can easily test it, if your networks are isolated, disable firewall rule allowing access to the Apple TV or whatever is the home thing.

What’s funny, is on the cell network, everything is fine. The video likes pausing, if you get packet loss. Annoying.

And why does it need to transcode the low quality stream? Perhaps it’s set to. Medium resolution is, not low. Medium must be set to stream 2 as well.

I set the local stream to stream 2, because that’s the only way to change the main remote stream, otherwise it uses stream 1, must be hard coded. Didn’t fix it, probably because it’s transcoding the local stream, with more bitrate then the video has most likely, and the same format. Not sure what the point in that is. Guess you have to restart it after changing that setting, or you can’t change it.

The “-maxrate 2000000” is hard coded it looks like. So how do you lower the bandwidth then? No instructions are nice. Might as well ditch it, at this point.

Anybody know what “-maxrate” does? Well, the bitrate setting is useless, you can’t find 3000 or 6000 when searching the console log.

They claim it’s better then Homebridge, not for 10 Mbps upload speed. Thanks to it’s hard coded bull shit. “2000 kb/s” if that’s the case, what’s the problem? Oh right, it’s only 10 Mbps. That’s under 2000 kb/s. I should say “kB/s”.

How the fuck do you set that to a lower number? I guess you have to modify the source code. Switching to Homebridge is easier. Setting the transcoding max bitrate to 1000 doesn’t work either. I tried 100 in the past, I think it just reset to the huge number.

I think 2000 is set on the camera. I ain’t changing it on the camera, that works just fine for me. The videos that are saved to computer, look fine. The max bitrate is set to 2048 Kb/s on the camera.

It should work with the shitty stream, as the max is only 1024. And you have to apparently change it on camera, so no idea what the transcoding max bitrate is for. Adding -b:v 1M won’t do any good, you can thank the hard coded option that is after it.

Here you go. Maybe it’s only if you run in a container. If you put a k in the bitrate, it removes the k. And the workaround of restarting it right after, doesn’t work.

What database does it use? Going to edit the database file directly, or look in it. The extension is .ldb. NoSQL? SQLite? It needs a password, according to sqlitebrowser. Wonder what the password is. Not my user’s password. I shouldn’t have to brute force my own database.

If you want to fix it, the easiest way is to set the local stream and all other streams, to the low quality one, and disable transcoding, since you can’t change the max bitrate. Nice feature. Maybe the recording streams can be left alone, since I don’t use that, it’s all saved to my computer. Maybe if you delete all transcoding stuff and re add it, it’ll work right. That didn’t fix it, or maybe didn’t change the bit rate in the right place.

Well, I guess you could try rm -fr the entire folder and starting over. Not worth it.

“destination: ’local’”, too bad you can’t change that. I have no other WiFi to test it on. Maybe it thinks it’s local at her house too. In that case, good luck. Still local, using VPN.

You’ll have to edit the code to change what it thinks is local. Funny though, it’s connecting using Apple’s server, and it’s local.

And you have to upgrade to their NVR, if you want to fix it, or use stream 2, the lower quality one. Nice. It’s a money grab. All WiFi is believed to be local, and the bitrate is hard coded.

There is one other fix, run ffmpeg encoding the stream 24/7, or when it tries to access the encoding stream, but set it to whatever you want. You’d have to add it as a “camera” though. Might be a messy solution.

Now to see how much their NVR is. And maybe some other day, switch to Homebridge, since it might let me set the bitrate.

I just set the local to stream 2. That’ll fix it for now, looks like ass though.

Now you could fork the code, and allow that bitrate to be changed. Assuming it’s open source.

You do know I’m incredibly lazy though right? How much space do you get? Can’t even find pricing. $40 a year, but you store videos on your own computer. Not sure it’s worth paying for, just to be able to stream better quality.

But port forwarding is optional. I don’t trust it though, so only use the local part.

You might have to use the cloud thing to view your cameras remotely. Guess it doesn’t do HomeKit, with lower bitrates. Hmm, says it does on the main page after you login, so you don’t need their cloud.

You could make another VLAN, and put the server on it. Except, the Apple TV should be on same VLAN. And the drive I use is in desktop. You could still do it though. But too much work.

Maybe tomorrow I’ll pay for it, after I find out if I don’t have to use the cloud part. Or do the third option, custom ffmpeg encoding streaming. And add that as a camera. Not exactly a great solution.

But I can stop using FTP for the videos, if I get their NVR, and it can save as H265, cause I don’t want massive H264 files.

That’s why Walmart sucks. I learned my lesson, I won’t order any tool related stuff from them anymore. They don’t actually have protective glasses or goggles, or magnetic screwdrivers.

So you get to pay twice, until that “temporary” hold is gone. They really can’t update their shitty site and say they don’t have it? They still have it at the store, according to their site.

No idea how they had the rotary tool.

But don’t want their shitty magnetic screwdriver kit anyways. Doesn’t look like it has small enough bits, like the one I have. I threw one bit away, it broke, trying to get a nozzle out of a heat block. Then bent another one trying the same thing. No idea what bits they are, even if it says where it was/is. And I don’t know if you can buy bits that fit it. Also the magnet on it might not be that great.

So I ordered a shitty kit from Amazon instead.

Why does Walmart say it’s for electronics? Do they mean appliances? The kit on Amazon was cheaper as well.

And if the flex thing I bought for rotary tool doesn’t work with this rotary tool, I’ll regret buying the Walmart brand. No idea when I bought it, so may or may not be able to return it.

Don’t know if I’ll bother renewing Walmart+ next year, well it will auto renew I think, if I don’t cancel it. You can’t get good potatoes from them. Probably lots of other food you can’t get either. Paying for Safeway is a better deal, you get way better food choices.

Just don’t buy non food stuff anymore, like toilet paper. If the republicans get their way, everything will cost too much anyways, and there will be massive lines at every food bank. Don’t worry, they will blame the democrats, because Trump is the chosen one. Yet, Trump doesn’t believe Americans should have free will. So no idea what God chose him, clearly not the one I believe in.

If using Wayland + Distrobox, copy and pasting may not work correctly. No idea what it was pasting. Should paste in the user field, and see what it’s doing to password. Thought I tried manually typing it, but I think I was locked out.

Tried in Firefox a little while after I got up, logged in fine. Last night wouldn’t login in Vivaldi either. Didn’t try Firefox last night. Not really a fan of Vivaldi or any Chrome based browser. Only use it because Firefox has a nice new bug, that only affects me apparently, and I’m too lazy to report it. Or it’s a problem with X11, no idea. Not going to test it in Wayland though. Switching browsers back and fourth is too much work.

To copy and paste, use dotool. It isn’t in the openSUSE repo, so I had to run install.sh. That should work with X11 or Wayland. It basically types something for you.

sh -c 'sleep 5.0; echo type "$(wl-paste)" | dotool'

That works for me, you need wl-clipboard, which you can install with zypper.

Probably don’t need that in a script, an alias might work just fine. But I’m lazy so will leave it as is, even with the filename “paste_vnc”. Don’t need it for VNC anymore, don’t use it. But I’ll forget what it is, if I rename it.

Now I might need it, if I use a remote desktop from my Mac mini to my desktop. Kind of a pain switching the monitor and keyboard/mouse inputs. You would want to for a game.

Picture in picture on monitor, the window is too small, so not a great solution either. I only need it on the local network, don’t want it working over the internet.

And it looks like the Apple Remote Desktop uses VNC. Not sure I have a VNC client though. Looks like I do, I don’t remove stuff I’m not using, hoarding is nice.

And why do you need Remote Desktop? That might be Microsoft, one says Apple in the app store. Just enable screen sharing, built into macOS. But why was I using NoMachine? Probably for using my desktop, and possibly trying to play games or something. VNC might be good enough for what I do on Mac though. If playing a game, just switch inputs.

Nice scrollbars. Might be because of scaling in KDE using Wayland. And I’m too lazy to change it, I have to logout and back in, or the font might look bad. HiDPI not great over VNC, change it, some no scrollbars, but only slightly at native resolution. So make it full screen. And everything might be bigger over VNC at native resolution, nice. That’s some magic scaling.

Had to disconnect to get out of full screen. Luckily, macOS has an icon to do so. But might be a little slow, so maybe use NoMachine. For TigerVNC Viewer, click F8, you can get into full screen and out of it. I right clicked the window bar, and selected full screen from there the first time. NoMachine is compiled for Intel, bummer.

Maybe don’t use NoMachine on M1 Mac mini. See this. So my Mac mini doesn’t support everything it needs for encoding, nice. But other M1s do. Guess I bought the wrong Mac. So their download page is wrong, saying it’s Intel.

NoMachine seems to work great. Looks good enough. HiDPI might look slightly worse though, if you care, just change the resolution, or tell it to match the window.

And I didn’t allow the server part on my desktop to access the network, so it didn’t want to shutdown, also not sure –stop is right. Just allow it outgoing access, then run sudo /usr/NX/bin/nxserver –shutdown –start-mode manual. Then delete rule for it, so it can’t access internet or anything else anymore. I don’t need to remotely connect to the desktop. Not really remote anyways. Same network, just different computer.

The endstops I ordered are too small, or it isn’t an endstop.

I did update the firmware on the screen. You have to remove the back of the screen housing to get to micro SD slot.

If it isn’t an endstop what is it called? The photo isn’t sharp enough to see the numbers or whatever. I’d have to remove printer from tent, and remove whatever it is again, to see.

If you hold the button down, you can level it, so if running it, you just have to hold the button down the entire time. Perhaps it’s supposed to be pushed down. I was able to reattach the metal thing, without glue, it goes back on. Don’t know how to make it pushed down permanently though. Probably don’t have a photo of it before it I broke it.

Oh and my right hand/fingers are broken. I can use an Allen wrench with my left hand, no problem. Right hand, not so much. Guess I should become left handed.

I found one number, that I can read. Not sure the other number is what I want anyways.

Or do you use two of the boards together? Well, you need to plug whichever board’s button is clickable. I guess you could glue it to broken board maybe. Still won’t be long enough, to plug it into the right board. You could plug it in before assembling it. Limit switch might be what it’s called.

Some parts site calls it that, but that one is too small. They don’t list parts for the Neo, but they do for Ender 3 V2.

You could desolder it, and solder onto the other board, but the board itself might have a problem.

Creality probably doesn’t sell it, at least not if you search for endstop.

So possibly the one part you can’t replace. Is it possible the board itself is broken? Or it just the switch? If just the switch, you can probably replace just that part. If you look at the photo, almost looks like it’s missing something.

You can find the photos here, screen photo too.

If you open in GIMP, it will be rotated correctly, just select keep, don’t rotate. Probably in the EXIF data.

Perhaps CRI-411V10 is the number I want, that’s what it looks like to me. Not on Amazon. Can’t find anything anywhere for that. Maybe you can replace just the end, 25T125 perhaps that’s right.

Not sure it’ll work with a smaller switch, like the ones I bought. You might be able to unscrew it. Nice video, how to replace it, but not how to buy it. Guess you can only get it if you email them. They will want a video and receipt, even if you want to pay for the part.

And you don’t have to buy parts from a third party, see here, they couldn’t give me those links eh. If you don’t want to go to Reddit, the links are below too.

https://vip.creality.com/en/exploded-view-detail/109
https://vip.creality.com/en/exploded-view-detail/110
https://vip.creality.com/en/exploded-view-detail/111
https://vip.creality.com/en/exploded-view-detail/112

The second link has the “X-axis_Limit Switch”. I’ll order two, so I don’t have to find the links again, or better, bookmark all four links. Well, still ordering two. You can get just the Heating Block as well, the only part I needed.

Going to get the Heating Block too. MOQ 50, LOL. Is that minimum order quantity? If so, those links are 100% useless. Or maximum? Says nothing about shipping. Now to email, to find out shipping.

If they won’t let me buy it, I’ll look up using info from invoice.

The SKU for the X-axis_Limit Switch is 2101030116. And 3205030055 for the Heating Block.

Search DuckDuckGo, and you’ll find it. At least the switch. Here is a Canadian site. The other site might be in Europe, Canada is closer.

Might cancel and order from that site. Or not, $23.12 for shipping. Not enough money in checking.

You get two days to pay from Creality. But if the shipping is $20 or so, and coming from China, I’ll pass. Might as well, get it from Canada.

And the Europe site, would be around $70 total, thanks to almost $50 shipping. Perhaps less, if you don’t get Heating Block and maybe only one switch. Nope, shipping is still almost $50.

I looked up MOQ, and the M is minimum. So those links aren’t for buying stuff, unless you want 50 of each item. So hopefully you have a grand or more to spend. If I had that much, I’d buy a new printer.

3dprintingusa.com has cheaper shipping, but the actual product costs more. Almost $30 for two switches. And I think it’s shipped from Canada. Not sure why they put USA in the site name. Here is the switch. DuckDuckGo can’t find everything for some reason, probably because it sucks. I found a link to the switch on that site on Reddit, which Reddit did find. No idea why it can’t find the actual site directly though.

Shipping might be the same for just one switch, might as well get two. Oh and searching their site for “Ender 3 V2 Neo” won’t find everything for it, like that switch.

Can’t order till tomorrow though. Need to cancel the order from Creality, but I can’t login, they don’t allow very long passwords, so who knows what the password is, it was generated. Couldn’t reset it on my phone, said something in Chinese, so might just let it cancel itself. Looks like their mobile site, may have only showed one password field, nice site. When resetting it. A heat block increased the cheapest shipping from $10 to $12, and the faster shipping from $12 to $15. Don’t really need the heat block, but if the nozzle breaks in it again, I will.

I do not recommend Creality printers, as you can’t easily buy certain parts. Good luck finding it on Amazon.

If I had a working 3D printer, I could print this and use the wrong part. I might see if I can get it printed some how. Might be better on PETG though. It uses the same limit switch as that printer, so might work, don’t care about webcam mount. You can probably pay to get it printed.

Good idea, buy another printer, so I can print a part. And then send other printer back. I’ll be sure to buy from Creality on Amazon, and if they ask why I returned it, I’ll say to print something to fix my printer, as they make it almost impossible to buy a fucking limit switch.

Now I can see the temperature in my apartment, when not home. It’s a Govee Hygrometer Thermometer H5075. Had to use a USB Bluetooth adapter though, on the Orange Pi 5, it’s the old Pi 5 with no Bluetooth or WiFi. I should have waited for the new one, that I knew nothing about, or don’t recall anyways.

Luckily, it has a USB 2.0 port, so I can save the USB C port for an external drive. One USB C port is for power only. Didn’t need to open the USB C adapters packaging, I realized after opening it, that it has a USB 2.0 port. I looked on their site to see what ports it has, cause I’m too lazy to look at it. Must have glanced at USB 2.0. But didn’t remember the Bluetooth adapter is 2.0.

Well, that USB Bluetooth adapter is good for something, not good for earbuds.

It rounds up like a dick. It should show .x instead.

You might still want their shitty app, if you want to log all the data. Maybe there’s a way to do that without that app, but I’m lazy.

It’s a plugin for Homebridge. Somebody said it works with Home Assistant, so looked for a plugin for Homebridge. And found one.

There’s a review that says you need to re calibrate after changing batteries. I just make it match my other thermometer, pretty much matches without any adjustment to temperature, or it did. The humidity isn’t right, and can’t be made right I guess. It’ll match for a while, then it won’t.

Well, I’d need to keep other thermometer in the room, longer.

If you want .x, use Home Widget. The free version seems to be fine. No idea what you get if you pay for it, life time is only $10. I won’t be spending anymore money until the 1st though. And I need almost $200 to buy AnyStream.

Apparently Apple didn’t add widgets for Home to iOS yet.

The Apple Watch is a dick, every time it updates, it turns Private Address back on, there goes it’s assigned IP address, and it’s internet connection. Why would I want that on my home network? Yes, people can sniff the air, but I don’t care. It doesn’t even connect to WiFi most of the time, so I should just disable WiFi on it. Not even sure why it has WiFi, since it barely uses it.

The part for the 3D printer came today, but too late to do it tonight. Maybe tomorrow.

Perhaps I should get another one of those thermometers, and put it in fridge.

They said they set it up without any Govee account. But this plugin wants a device ID, or login info for Govee. I just entered my login info, as I have no idea what the device ID is, or I didn’t, the app might know now though. Didn’t see it in the official app. And if you don’t use an app, you can’t set it to only allow yourself to manage it. I don’t need my calibrating getting changed constantly. I don’t care if they can see the temperature.

It’s in C on the Homebridge interface in a browser, but in Home it’s in F. No idea if you can change it on the Homebridge interface.

Guess I can have a widget for my camera too now. Not really enough room on home screen, already lost the weather. I could just move all the apps to a new page. And make the entire page widgets. Or maybe you need premium for that. And you’ll probably be paying for it, only 10 actions a day, I assume refreshing is an action. So I should use that up pretty quickly.

Don’t use Windows junk? There’s a Linux and Mac version of AnyStream here. Don’t download from the forum post, it’s outdated, but follow the instructions for Linux Mint, if using Ubuntu or Mint.

PLAYON.tv is Windows only. Finally found a program that works in other operating systems.

The old RPM didn’t work in openSUSE. But I think I should try the .tar.gz and see if it works.

I downloaded one thing from Paramount+. Looks like no commercials in it, I have whatever plan Walmart+ gives me.

The scrolling left and right doesn’t work right, you can search though, if you know what you want. Perhaps because I’m using Wayland. Ubuntu is in Distrobox. I might try the Mac version to see if the scrolling works right, up and down works though.

And I won’t be buying it for a while, the lifetime version isn’t cheap, but no subscription, so who cares.

Now, you can change your machine ID or whatever it uses, and get unlimited trials. But that is kind of crappy to do. They support non Windows operating systems, so support them. If nobody buys it, then they probably won’t continue making it better, like adding more streaming providers.

I was accidentally running it with Firejail. It’s using a sh file to open a browser, which uses Firejail, which Ubuntu doesn’t have, possibly openSUSE doesn’t have either. I don’t need Firejail, AppArmor is good enough. Now how do I change the default app? Cause it’s already changed in KDE.

Well, it might be messed up, because I had to install gnome-shell. Downloading tar.gz to see if it works, and doesn’t want Firejail.

./AnyStream: error while loading shared libraries: libjbig.so.0: cannot open shared object file: No such file or directory

Good luck. You’ll have to compile that yourself I guess. You can install libjbig-devel, but not sure that’ll work.

The macOS version is better, most likely. I could go into X11 and see if it works better, but I’m lazy. KDE is buggy in Wayland, or Wayland is buggy.

“Failed to load client buffer integration: “wayland-egl”” maybe that’s the problem. Is this a 32bit program? Still says that after installing libwayland-egl1-32bit. But scrolling is working now, so who cares. Perhaps I just needed to restart the program.

And you don’t need that to fix scrolling, uninstalled it, and still works. Only 159 EUR, still better then a subscription and/or Windows only program. I’ll spend all my money on different stuff though. I don’t really need to download anything from those streaming services anyways. I do need to convert what it downloaded, the file seems kind of big.

H264, there’s the problem, H265 is smaller, need to use Mac mini for that though. I might be able to use GPU on Linux desktop, but not with HandBrake. Unless something’s changed, and I’m lazy.

Update
Awesome program. I’ll buy it as soon as I can, probably the lifetime version.

And I might cancel my subscription for some Apple TV app, might only be $10 per year, but I can just use Channels DVR, instead of Jellyfin. Would be nice, if the info wasn’t just the filename though. Is there a way to fix that? I don’t care enough to use Jellyfin, not even sure it shows the write title either, might just be the filename.

The Orange Pi 5 isn’t good for hardware encoding, if you want to use ffmpeg. So the slow Raspberry Pi 4 is good for something.

I’ll get the plus version. That supports all current and future streaming services, the cheaper one is limited.

Would be better if it says you watched it or not though, as it is, you’d have to go on Netflix to see.

The scroll bug seems to only be after logging into a service, restarting it seems to fix it, perhaps changing the tab does as well, didn’t try.

Cheaper then a tap and die kit, that might not work anyways. And heat set inserts, are metal I think. So you ain’t screwing into plastic.

But you could print plastic screws. Not the best idea for some stuff.

These are only $15. But can you in the future buy just the inserts? So you don’t get a massive collection of soldering iron tips? Hmm, I like hoarding.

No idea if it’ll work with my old Harbor Freight soldering iron, and I won’t buy that till next month. Or after the printer works. I’ll buy a new iron if I need one. That’s only the tips? Bummer. I need the inserts too.

You can get the inserts on Amazon, and probably the tips too. But those tips are better, and I think I bought my case on Tindie, so I’ll get the tips on there.

Instructions for threading holes in 3D printed models.

Perhaps just buy the tips on Amazon. Same seller, and cheaper, nice.

Wtf is #4-40? Apparently small. So might need that too, or perhaps just that. But get em all, so I can not use glue, and screw my parts together. Nothing like screwing a sex doll.

Why did I ask for gloves if I’m not going to use gorilla glue? Perhaps use glue for something else. Like stuff that doesn’t need screws. You don’t want screws on your massive 3D printed dick.

The Lockdown app, not the thing built into iOS. DuckDuckGo, sure thinks I’m searching for the built in thing though, add firewall, and you can find the actual app. Maybe add “third party app that uses VPN”.

But does AdGuard use a VPN if you configure the system wide blocking? Instructions here. It’s a one time purchase, well that’s an option. Lockdown wants me to pay to have more features, and it can’t even block Jetpack Stats.

I did buy Roadblock for iOS, which was only $2 one time. It blocks Jetpack Stats, and you can add custom rules. So it works with the free Lockdown, for Safari anyways. The other content block I was using, sucks, you can’t add custom rules. Think I paid for it a long time ago, but deleted it, and replaced with Roadblock. Used the old Roadblock on macOS, it had issues, no idea if it was ever fixed. And haven’t and probably won’t try the new version in macOS, just don’t use Safari, and there’s plenty of free blockers.

I can’t use my AdGuard DNS when not at home. I’m not managing a server to run an AdGuard DNS server on, that is not managing a public server. If any ports are open, it’s public.

But I think I’m ditching Lockdown, I don’t like crippled apps, because I don’t want a subscription.

Oh but I can use my VPN providers app, without paying anything else, and get blocking. But don’t think it has custom blocking of any kind.

If it doesn’t use a VPN, it’s superior to Lockdown. You’d think a VPN would use more resources, if it’s just a local DNS server, perhaps it uses less. Paying $12 or whatever once is also better. Also, might tell you more info about what’s happening then Lockdown. Does it show non filtered stuff too? So you can easily filter it? Perhaps filter everything, just use a * in the list.

And it looks like for free, you can add custom domains, but not lists. Crippled app, unless you pay a subscription. In Lockdown. So I may not have needed to buy Roadblock. But the other content blocker was very minimal. And if something annoys you on a site, you can block it. Blocking a domain, may not be what you want. If you just want to hide everything republicans say on the internet. Now you can start with blocking FakeSocial, he calls it TruthSocial or something.

There’s a block list in Lockdown, but no list of everything. Should have deleted my Lockdown account, before deleting app though. Too lazy to reinstall and sign in and delete account.

Around $14 after tax for AdGuard, I guess it’s $13 before tax. And it uses a VPN, but a split tunnel VPN, so I can use my VPN app with it. Or you can change to full VPN, and not use it with other VPN apps. Need to go on my DNS server and get the lists I use.

I’m too lazy to turn it on and off when home. So double condoms for me.

And I think it said it can block annoyances, so I may not have needed to pay for Roadblock, but only $2, so who cares. The more protection the better. Protection from ads using my data.

Good news, you can disable DNS for some WiFi networks. But is it really using a split VPN? Can’t use my VPN provider’s app, and AdGuard at the same time, changes to disabled for AdGuard.

I don’t use the VPN on my phone very often anyways.

But you can easily block stuff on a page in Safari with it, you tap an element, anywhere on the page. I did find where Roadblock is in Safari, thanks to AdGuard. But it’s useless I think, no element picker possibly. But for Roadblock, buy the Mac version, and sync the rules. Unless Mac version doesn’t sync with it, in that case getting the selector to block, might require using a computer, and typing it in. Too much work.

If Apple ever is forced to allow sideloading in the US, perhaps they can make the app not need a VPN. And then your VPN will work with it.

Think it was over 70 days, maybe 75 days. UrBackup was only backing up at 3 MB/s or so. I installed it using Distrobox, the easiest way to do so, if you look at the installer script, it says the paths are hard coded in binaries. So it won’t work, installing to your home folder. But you can use distrobox-export while in the container, and then copy the service file for UrBackup, and edit the start command, and comment out the user line. It works, because I stopped the container, and enabled the service, and it’s running again. Instead of resuming the backup, it started over though, faster then 3 MB/s so far.

Before turning the Deck off, I tried copying to the micro SD card, and that was fine. Then I tried reading from it, and that was 3 MB/s or so. Perhaps this PNY micro SD card isn’t that great, says speeds up to 100 MB/s, on the Amazon page, probably the read speed. Why would the write speed be faster then the read speed? Makes zero sense. I even tried with the container off, so no UrBackup running.

Also, the Steam Deck got slow. Guess a slow micro SD card slows everything down, including stuff not on it.

I changed stuff in CryoUtilities on the Deck, didn’t click the recommended button though. I also increased the VRAM, probably won’t matter for UrBackup, but might make some games happy. I only increased the SWAP to 4 GB. Limited amount of free space on the internal drive. I changed the swappiness to 25. Clicked all the buttons under memory or whatever, even though I don’t know what any of it is really.

Mostly had CryoUtilities for easily moving game data to the micro SD card. Not really needed, you can just run “ln -s” and do it manually.

When testing the read speed after booting it, it was only 30 MB/s or so. It’s backing up around 40 MB/s right now, that’s better then what Dolphin was copying a file at. Perhaps if there was more free space, it would read faster.

I’ll fix the problem, if I ever get my 3D printer working. There’s a 3D model, you can modify, and perhaps fit a NVMe enclosure on it. I should print it out and measure it. Or perhaps the printer program says how big it is. Need a USB hub with Type-C input power, and a power bank as well. Or maybe skip the power bank, but if not home, without USB hub, you won’t be able to charge and use drive at the same time.

You can just layer it, so stuff is on top of each other, not directly, modify the 3D model. Might be too heavy though. I refuse to open the Steam Deck. I also refuse to buy a 1 TB micro SD card. I already have a bunch of stuff to buy. So no NVMe enclosure + drive until July at the soonest. Unless I sell stuff at her yard sale.

Apparently you can’t thread a hole with a rotary tool, DuckDuckGo won’t find anything useful if you search, so I gave up. You can do it manually with a tap and die kit. I need metric though, inches suck.

If you tell me 1/8, I won’t know what you are talking about, now if you tell me mm, I’ll have a better chance. I don’t use confusing measurements, like inches. Then again, the measurement of a cock in inches, I might know. But that isn’t fractions. Unless the cock is only 1mm, which is 3/64 in inches. 1mm must be a tiny dick. Do you need a magnifying glass to see it?

The Steam Deck was also refusing to lock the screen. So I guess it crapped out, for trying to backup the micro SD card.

I don’t recommend Creality, on one product, they are violating open source licenses. I won’t name the product though. And apparently Creality and SKR boards suck. Don’t ask me if the TH3D EZBoard V2+ fits in the Ender 3 V2 Neo, doesn’t say it’s supported, so I guess not. Nobody asked about the Ender 3 V2 Neo, maybe some other Neo. They said it would with a different screen.

So I basically bought a printer, that can’t print right out of the box. And I’m gonna be pissed if the endstop or whatever doesn’t fix it. I’ll open the back of the screen, once the endstop comes. And update it’s firmware. Unless it has no micro SD card. I’ll put the easy third party firmware on it, if I have the right screen. Unified 2 Firmware, I already installed the MS VSCode crap. I used the snap.

I will replace the power supply eventually, hopefully not next month though. Need to measure it. Apparently they use cloned power supplies. I’d rather have the original real one.

And that EZBoard is around $100. So if I need a new board, that won’t happen for a while. You can buy a screen that’ll work for the firmware on the same site.

At least I’ll have tweezers, by the time I need a new board. Assuming I can grip the tweezers without a problem, they should come in handy, for lots of stuff. In fact, I won’t use my bare fingers for much electronic stuff anymore, not even my desktop. I like being able to see what I’m doing.

There’s this for the Steam Deck, you don’t need to print anything. But you probably won’t be putting a hub, power bank, and NVMe enclosure on the back of Steam Deck with that. You need apartments or shelves, might be too heavy though, and hard to hold. Make sure the NVMe is on top, and a fan somewhere. Power bank could use a fan too, who cares about the hub.

Don’t ask me how to open .stp files. You might need something I don’t have, and ain’t paying for.

Tries to open, but then closes. Might work from the terminal, that is not using the GUI. If you run flatpak run com.github.mtkennerly.ludusavi –help, you’ll see the commands you can use.

So I guess no GUI for openSUSE users, at least not with an AMD GPU and the latest kernel provided.

If I have to use it without the GUI, I might as well backup some other way. UrBackup should be backing all my saves up anyways. And it’s not limited to certain games.

Now to see if I can get UrBackup on my Steam Deck. Maybe don’t backup the actual game though, just the save data, and maybe Distrobox. UrBackup might have deduplication though, so I guess it doesn’t matter if I back the games up as well. It’s already backing up most of my games from my desktop.

Or maybe it doesn’t work with X11? That’s a bummer.

Psensor doesn’t work with Wayland, well not completely, you can’t minimize it to the tray. You have to keep the window open.

Says it only needs OpenGL.

Does absolutely nothing in Wayland, and good news, Psensor works in Wayland. And there’s only one icon for Psensor if you use Wayland, I had two icons in X11, no idea why. I guess they thought I’d move to Wayland, since somebody fixed it. Clicking the X doesn’t close it, it’s in the tray.

Now I wonder if Firefox doesn’t have the bug I had in the past, well I’d need to test in X11 as well. I haven’t tested it lately, and there’s been updates.

Perhaps that’s why the Firefox bug doesn’t affect very many people, most are using Wayland now.

And changing the scale makes text look bad, but is fine in X11. No idea what the scale was in X11. Got to logout and back in with X11 to see. But first, I got to see how to make font look better.

So change the font DPI instead? Or change from slight smoothing to full maybe. Well, got to logout anyways, only newly opened stuff will use the new font DPI.

Well, it might be fine now, font DPI in X11 is 120, so set that in Wayland, and scaling is 125% in X11, so set that in Wayland too. And then logged out and back in.

So you might be able to use it with a 4k monitor. My monitor only does 1440p on DisplayPort, apparently 4k on the HDMI port, at least the Mac mini can use it’s “fake” 4k. The monitor says it only works with the PS4 Pro, it works with my Mac mini, and gives me more resolution choices, the HiDPI.

I don’t report bugs, I only complain. That’s why the Firefox bug never got reported, it only affects one person, and I switched my browser. I use it for watching YouToot, if I want subtitles in the picture in picture window.

Nice KDE just reloaded something, after I cleared my clipboard. The entire thing on bottom disappeared then came back. The panel, with the menu and tray.

How is this better then X11? You can apparently crash it very easily. Didn’t work that time, good luck reproducing that feature. Might be KDE and not Wayland itself.

Using “–env=LUDUSAVI_DEBUG=1” with Flatpak is useless, doesn’t show anything, it just doesn’t work.

Oh Firewall is probably blocking it. Too bad OpenSnitch doesn’t popup when opening it.

flatpak run –env=RUST_LOG=ludusavi=debug –env=LUDUSAVI_DEBUG=1 com.github.mtkennerly.ludusavi manifest update asks for internet, but still won’t open after doing that. There’s a log file, perhaps that’s where the debug crap goes, but nothing useful in it, so good luck.

[2023-05-28T03:22:17.644Z] DEBUG [ludusavi] Version: 0.18.2
[2023-05-28T03:22:17.651Z] DEBUG [ludusavi::gui::app] Config on startup: Config { runtime: Runtime { threads: None }, manifest: ManifestConfig { url: "https://raw.githubusercontent.com/mtkennerly/ludusavi-manifest/master/data/manifest.yaml" }, language: English, theme: Light, roots: [RootsConfig { path: StrictPath { raw: "/home/asshole/.local/share/Steam", basis: None }, store: Steam }, RootsConfig { path: StrictPath { raw: "/media/fast_games/steam", basis: None }, store: Steam }], redirects: [], backup: BackupConfig { path: StrictPath { raw: "/home/asshole/ludusavi-backup", basis: None }, ignored_games: {}, filter: BackupFilter { exclude_store_screenshots: false, ignored_paths: [], ignored_registry: [] }, toggled_paths: ToggledPaths({}), toggled_registry: ToggledRegistry({}), sort: Sort { key: Status, reversed: false }, retention: Retention { full: 1, differential: 0 }, format: BackupFormats { chosen: Simple, zip: ZipConfig { compression: Deflate }, compression: Compression { deflate: DeflateCompression { level: 6 }, bzip2: Bzip2Compression { level: 6 }, zstd: ZstdCompression { level: 10 } } } }, restore: RestoreConfig { path: StrictPath { raw: "/home/asshole/ludusavi-backup", basis: None }, ignored_games: {}, sort: Sort { key: Status, reversed: false } }, scan: Scan { show_deselected_games: true, show_unchanged_games: true, show_unscanned_games: true }, cloud: Cloud { remote: None, path: "ludusavi-backup", synchronize: true }, apps: Apps { rclone: App { path: StrictPath { raw: "", basis: None }, arguments: "" } }, custom_games: [] }

Wrong time too. Can it not access /media/fast_games or something? So just silently crash. Not really worth using in that case.

flatpak override –user –filesystem=/media com.github.mtkennerly.ludusavi still doesn’t work.

Maybe it only works with –system, therefore not worth using.

If you are wondering, the Steam Deck appears to emulator the Switch just fine. My Switch is probably worth more then I paid, an original one that is easy to hack. But I’ll keep it, a hacked Switch is great fun.

Now how do you sync emulator game saves without Ludusavi? You can add custom games to it, but it won’t open. Use some other game backup thing I guess. Or manually do it with scripts. Or if you are always able to access shares on your desktop, ln -s the folder to the desktop. Can’t always access the share, like if I take the Deck somewhere. Maybe MEGA can sync the folder across multiple devices. You can run it with Distrobox. Kind of a pain though. Not enough space on micro SD card for much else anyways. I don’t want to buy a 1 TB micro SD card. Got a pile of stuff I need to buy.

Not sure I’d trust MEGA, the iPad and iPhone app will backup your device photos and videos to the same folder, change it on one device, and changes on all devices. Pretty much useless. Good enough for my pictures though. But I should look for a new backup method for my remote backup. Forcing every device to backup to the same folder for their photos and videos is lame. At least ones that require an App Store. You can do more with the MEGA app in Linux.

The scaling in Wayland must be different then X11, as I think everything is bigger then X11 now. Too lazy to mess with it.

You might get in trouble modifying this for a NVMe USB enclosure. Or maybe you just can’t share it. And perhaps a different site has something for a NVMe enclosure. Not opening Steam Deck, unless the battery dies. Or something else dies.

Perhaps modify this instead. I think I can use my rotary tool as a drill, so drill holes for the NVMe enclosure. That won’t work too well, it doesn’t have holes, bummer. Don’t make a jacket for it, it gets hot.

And how do you charge without a dock and keeping the NVMe enclosure plugged in? The battery life sucks, so you’ll probably need to charge it.

And their Fusion 360 file is useless, that’s expensive, no thanks. So modify the STL file instead.

Cheaper to buy a big NVMe enclosure, then a shitty micro SD card. Unless you want to risk micro SD card dying. Do they make 2 TB micro SD cards? My Kingston 2 TB NVMe seems fine, can be slow, but who cares, faster then micro SD.

I have gloves now, so can use gorilla glue, tweezers aren’t coming till next Saturday though. Does gorilla glue keep stuff glued together? Somebody said if you glue 3D printed stuff, it’ll come undone in a couple of months. Not sure that’s true. Find some way to attach the enclosure to that, and you don’t need to modify it. Make sure the enclosure is the right way, or it’ll get too hot. Looks like mine says Plugable on the top, so glue the other side to that.

NVMe is smaller then SATA SSD. Smaller is better, that’s what she didn’t say.

Only $85 for the 2 TB Kingston NVMe SSD I have now. Cheaper then some 1 TB micro SD cards. The cheapest real 1 TB micro SD card on Amazon is probably Silicon Power. $65.97 it looks like. But their smaller cards, are easy to kill on accident, so wouldn’t want to lose 1 TB of data. The Switch has a Silicon Power I think, 500 GB or 512 GB. But I’m very careful with it.

How much is a 4 TB micro SD card? A Kingston 4 TB NVMe is $205. But you can get a USB Type-C hub, and plug in lots of NVMe enclosures, well if there’s enough power. Can you power the hub with a power bank and charge the Deck with it?

So basically, get a USB Type-C dock, with Type-C power input, or any power input that a power bank can provide, and maybe modify the dock so it’s smaller. Or just look for the smallest one you can find. More like a hub, with power input. Or look for a hub with the right power input.

I know how to modify that deck accessory holder thingy, add a condom compartment. For the condoms you’ll never use. Just forget the NVMe enclosure idea, and make the entire thing a condom container. But open all the condoms, so people think they are used. You can hand them out at a conservative parade.

How much power does the Deck need? 85 watts or less? Anker has a Type-C hub with Type-C power input, but the power output is only 85 watts. 45 watts, what power bank will do that? Probably not any I have. 15 volts, nice. Maybe only when playing. Even playing porn? When there’s no internet or electricity, I’m gonna play porn on it. Homemade porn that is. Or Stable Diffusion porn.

So I need a 45 watt PD power bank? Might be easier to use my Power Station, just put it on my back instead of the Steam Deck. Anker appears to make one, for $100, 45 watt PD.

Bad review says it charges it “well” while playing the Deck. Bad review because only 1.5 charges, and they paid $150. I wouldn’t pay $150 for any power bank. I got a massive Power Station, I’d rather use.

1.5 times is plenty, as I only need 1. How long does the battery last? 3 hours? Well, then I don’t need one. Where am I going for 3+ hours? To the bathroom maybe, but there’s plug in there, and I can even bring my Power Station in there.

The dimensions for that hub are in inches, I don’t know inches. And don’t know dimensions of that 3D file either. I’ll add it to wish list anyways, probably won’t buy it though. Maybe in a couple months. After I finish rebuilding 3D printer.

Will that hub work with under 100 watts? 45 watts might not be enough for Deck + NVMe enclosure, while playing.

Those power banks are probably too big anyways. 140 watt output for $160, and looks kind of cool. But if it won’t fit on the back of deck, use a power cord. Good idea, since there’s usually power where I go, buy another charger to bring with me. And hub, so the NVMe can be plugged in at the same time. I can always bring my Power Station. And a solar panel.

And recent saves of the games, I found some saves, but possibly outdated.

Nintendo hates emulators, so I installed the Flatpak yuzu.

Works fine on my desktop, but need to test on Steam Deck. Didn’t try all the games I have though. And no idea what buttons to click, I just got lucky. Couldn’t actually play a game. A controller would be easier.

Thanks Nintendo for using worse hardware then Sony and Microsoft. Well, the CPU and GPU is worse. And it might be kind of old now. Apparently the NVIDIA crap in it or whatever it is, is from 2015. When did I get my Switch?

I’ll be keeping my hacked Switch though. It’s probably worth more then I paid, because you don’t need a mod chip to hack it.

But the Steam Deck is more convenient, you then get PC games too, on the go.

I downloaded the keys and already have firmware, did download firmware again, but then tried newer firmware that I also have, had to get different keys, as what I had didn’t work. Well, sort of worked, except it said fail to decrypt the firmware or something.

And I also need sys-patch on my Switch. Might not need to make my own patches, or download patches anymore. I have to use a shitty Windows program to make patches. The Python script is outdated, and no longer works.

They don’t recommend using it only. But I’m lazy, so upgrade firmware, don’t get new patches, and hope for the best.

How do you show the overlay for that? Is it the same for every overlay?

Maybe don’t update the firmware yet. Still pre release for latest Atmosphère.

Logged into her account on my phone, tried watching something, and it appears to work. Apparently my phone wasn’t already logged into Netflix. Probably because I don’t use it on my phone.

She’s on the most expensive plan I think. She might downgrade it.

You can always pay for one month and cancel it. Netflix thinks they are getting more members that keep the service long term. There’s another way to get the shows as well. No idea if it’s cheaper though.

It’s cheap if you never use it, and it’s block storage, as you never have to get more.

I should go watch all the episodes of Mulligan before I can’t for free.

That’s what republicans and their voters will be saying, if no deal is made, from the blackmailing the republicans are doing. Apparently Biden said he’s going to keep paying some bills, like the military and social security.

It’s not Biden’s fault the republicans are blackmailing him. He didn’t tell them to blackmail him.

But I guess it’s blackmailing America, as it affects everyone, including republicans.

Not that paying those bills will do any good, as thanks to the republicans, everything will cost more. So unless they plan on giving more money to the military and social security people, it won’t get you much.

Maybe in the near future, food stamps will only buy you one thing a month. That will also affect people not getting food stamps, unless they are a rich republican. The food banks won’t have enough food.

So we can go back to being hunter gatherers, as I think that’s what the republicans want anyways, to go backwards, instead of forward.

I replaced the parts in heat block on hotend. But that didn’t fix anything.

It basically think it’s somewhere it isn’t. If you hold down the switch for the nozzle/hotend/cage, it will move, but it won’t go to the right spot. Just like if you put the cage all the way to the button. Well that won’t work anymore, the metal piece broke off, I was trying to put belt through it, to keep it pushed down, and then it broke right off. While tightening belt. Don’t ask me if it’s missing something else as well. I can’t glue it back on, gorilla glue says it bonds to skin instantly. And you’ll be touching the glue on that tiny metal thing. I don’t have tweezers. Or gloves.

And when messing with the wires, the motherboard/main board, can come out a little, probably all the way, if you know what you are doing, but I only needed to be able to see the top of the screw plugs. And move it so I can plug the white cable in, my fingers aren’t small enough to plug it in, where it was. Lots of metal making the area smaller.

How do you reset the position of it? Or what is the default position of the bed and cage? The bed won’t move if you don’t put it on it’s button either.

Use a magnetic screwdriver, if you don’t have the right bits, get the right bits or a new magnetic screwdriver, it’s way easier, and not worth the hassle using Allen wrenches. Didn’t know I had the right bits. I know one bit is bent, one threw away, and possibly lost one. Or is the bent one the one I lost?

I’ll be buying a new magnetic screwdriver in the near future, probably the cheapo Walmart branded one, I don’t care. I have a cheapo brand as it is. The magnets kind of suck on it though, sometimes.

I need protective goggles or glasses + gloves + tweezers now. The new magnetic screwdriver can wait. Where is the endstop?

Don’t bother gluing that back on, just buy new switches, and you’ll have extra. Search for endstop on Amazon.

Perhaps replacing the fucker, will reset the fucker. One seller I like has it, but only 3, seller I never bought from, has 5 for not much more. But I won’t risk buying from a different seller, only the ones I’ve bought from. And is that thing even plugged in? Perhaps I fried it somehow. Maybe with heat gun.

Will Amazon be mad if I don’t buy the other things in my cart with this order? Maybe, but who cares. Don’t want to spend almost $30. No idea if I’m getting more money anyways. But the next order will be bigger anyways, I’ll get the flex shaft for rotary tool. And who knows what else. Need to see how much money after I pay all my bills.

And will that even work with my printer? And it probably will. Works with the 3 v2 non Neo.

Apparently it can fix leveling issues. So I was sold junk? I really should ask for replacement parts, instead of buying everything. But I broke the metal thing off, so my fault.

I got to rebuild the entire printer. Then I’ll be happy.

Hmm, I should add up all the stuff I bought for this printer. See if I spent more then I paid for printer. The question though is, how did they get fried? As the other one could be as well. And that’ll only leave one extra, if I have to replace that one too.

And is the belt supposed to be attached to something where the endstop is?

Based on the pictures, I’m going to say no. Doesn’t appear to be anywhere to attach the belt directly to it.

If I left hotend/heat block alone, I wouldn’t have needed to replace those parts. Maybe. Now the cables are a mess, no point in fixing, until the printer is working right. I’ll use zip ties. How much are zip ties? As I should have bought that too. I have some, that I think came with printer, but I cut a bunch while getting the cables in the sleeve. A real pain in the ass, the sleeve is.

You’ll be sorry if you have to replace wiring, or a part with a wire on it. You could just cut part of the new wire, and solder it. Then you can make it even longer. That’ll make the 3D printer happy, when it tangles itself up.

I’ll buy the zip ties next month. With the other crap. Can you remove them without cutting? No idea, easier to cut em.

I’d recommend buying a different printer, as assembling it probably isn’t that hard. If I left nozzle on, perhaps it would be fine. Except, the nozzle may have been clogged. And broken. Hmm, maybe that broke the endstop. Setting a bad Z offset. Also, it takes a long time to do the “three” steps or whatever they said on the Ender 3 V2 Neo.

And maybe if it isn’t the same brand, they won’t use glue on the main board. It was hard to unplug the old white wire, because of the fucking glue.

You could also buy a broken V2 Neo, and replace parts until it works, hopefully it’s under $100. Perhaps just buy the printer, but without the electronics and stuff, just the metal part and bed. Or get a DIY printer, and then buy the main board and everything else that you want. It’s like assembling your own computer. Exactly how you want it.

If your 3D printer breaks, and you just bought it, don’t try to fix it, send it back if you can for a refund. Then find a different printer to buy. You have to buy parts for this printer from third parties. And how do you replace the power supply? And what power supply works? It moves slow when it is moving, but that might be a tight belt. Don’t know if a broken endstop makes it crawl. Apparently it makes it not move. Holding the button down, isn’t very convenient. You’ll be holding it down for many hours, depending on how long it takes to print.

Good luck updating your screen’s firmware, there is no micro SD card on the back of my display. Is the internet full of wrong and/or outdated info? They say nothing about opening the display.

Looks like to remove power supply, it’s on the bottom like motherboard.

The screw plugs, you have to put the wire in the right spot, or it’ll just fall out. If you can see the top, you’ll figure it out, eventually. You loosen it to remove what’s plugged in, then put plug in the right spot and tighten it. Since I couldn’t see the top, I had no idea what was happening. Good luck holding a flashlight, a screwdriver, and a cable at the same time, not to mention your neck will hurt at that angle. Not even sure I’d still be able to see the top though. My neck must have not hurt after I moved it out a little.

Does an Ender 3 power supply work? If so, you might be able to find a better branded one, based on the info for the Ender 3 one on Amazon. Might not be an official Ender 3 power supply.

Update
Either my screen can’t be updated, or you need to remove the back, see here. I’d reckon those micro SD slots aren’t usable with the back on. No instructions say to remove the back of the screen though. They just say “on back”.

Is their firmware any good? If you have a crappy locked down screen, you can’t use different firmware. Well, maybe Klipper, without using the screen. Unless some other firmware somehow supports it. And that site provides much better instructions, see here. You have to remove four screws, nice that nobody else tells you that. Surprised my printer works, without updating the screen firmware. Or is that why it’s freezing? No idea, I’ll flash the screen, if I can, once the part I ordered comes.

So if you use third party firmware, use that one. They provide easy to understand instructions, I’d rather not brick it. No idea how it compares to any other firmware though.

And the stock power supply, is apparently cloned crap. From that site, the power supply is over $50. That brand directly from Amazon, is around $30. If they are the same, buy it on Amazon. Maybe buy their cover, or print it.

Well, I bought the wrong printer, cloned crap in it. Might be cheap, but I don’t want possibly the most important piece of it to be crap. Cover probably isn’t needed on my printer, as that isn’t even what mine looks like.

Update #2
SV06 probably the printer I should have bought. Maybe I’ll fix this one, and sell it. That one can do the Z offset for you, I think.

That appears to be the cheapest internet TV provider. Don’t think it has TV Everywhere, but you can use it with Channels DVR, see here.

Need to find out if Max has Comedy Central, it has South Park, and even Rick And Morty. Does it have Digman!?

That’s not much more then what I’m paying for Philo, Frndly TV + Max, assuming I get the most expensive Frndly TV plan. I wouldn’t get the cheapest plan though. Well, close to the same, with either of the two more expensive plans, a little more I think.

I only need the History channel, if Max has the other shows I watch. What channel is Strange Evidence on? Science channel. Is that on Max?

I’d probably get the Max plan with ads, it’s cheaper. They have Strange Evidence, but no Digman!. And they don’t have all of Strange Evidence. Bummer. Or maybe they do, Channels DVR may have the wrong info, or Max does. Still no Digman!. That episode is really Season 6, according to Max, and the Season 6 episodes are 7.

Digman! is on Paramount Plus? I have that for free I think, from Walmart+. Nice. Can’t find it on my computer in a browser. Thought I saw it on there though, on the Apple TV.

I’ll check on Apple TV eventually, got to eat lunch, and maybe try to fix printer.

I’ll probably keep Philo, if I cancel, I’ll have to pay more if I want it back. I’m grandfathered in.

HISTORY Vault conveniently doesn’t say what it has, I guess you have to signup for a trial, I’m guessing only old stuff. I may have signed up for the trial in the past, no idea. That’s $5 a month.

But also with streaming services, they can remove shows. If you record it, you can keep it forever. I keep some episodes, like the episode that showed somebody disappearing in bed. Think that was on Strange Evidence. I should keep all The Secret of Skinwalker Ranch episodes.

It’s possible Digman! was on Paramount Plus, and they removed it. So if there is a second season, I wouldn’t be able to watch it, unless they add it back.

Now if Frndly TV had channels I wanted, that Philo doesn’t, I might signup and have both, but I don’t think they do.

And looks like HISTORY Vault is useless. I don’t want to wait who knows how long to watch my shows.

You can also download the public domain version of your shows, if it’s popular enough, a good reason not to use that method either. I want to watch what I want, rather anybody else does. Use it for the popular shows you can’t watch any other way.

I probably won’t signup for Max. I might have to pay for Netflix instead anyways. There’s a new cartoon I want to watch on there, probably an adult cartoon.

If you look at Reddit for Frndly TV, it probably isn’t very good compared to Philo. Might not even have multiple profiles, so everything recorded is in one list. I have Philo set to save stuff, so if Channels DVR doesn’t record, or has a problem, I can still watch it, without commercials.

I decided to buy that from Walmart. Can’t be any worse then the other cheap rotary tools. Well, I suppose it could, since it’s Walmart. Only around $2 more I think then the WEN, or maybe $3 or so more. One site said the WEN I was going to get, doesn’t have a shield or something for the cutters. Not sure what that is. Maybe this one has that.

And maybe the sanding stuff is better quality then what the WEN comes with. And I think it has more stuff included, probably not the flex thing. I have I think it’s a flex thing, for a Dremel, no idea if it’ll work though.

The Walmart brand also has sanding things you can buy. So I could have just bought the WEN, and when needed bought sanding things from Walmart.

No idea if it’ll work for PLA anyways. Might only be good for friction welding, I’d probably need a video to figure that out. But you might be able to use rotary tools as a drill. So it’s worth having anyways. Do they make screwdriver bits for it? 8,000 RPM might be a little much though, depending on what it is. Like electronics. That’s the minimum speed.

I should get it later, assuming Walmart gave me it, and it was delivered to her house.

The protective glasses, they don’t actually have. I guess they sold out overnight, hard to believe. I’ll get them somewhere else. They just need to be able to go over my glasses. Got to love Walmart, selling you crap they don’t have, and probably not something a lot of people are buying at Walmart anyways.

She said any hardware store should have them, in that case, one with pickups might work. Harbor Freight doesn’t have pickups, you have to go inside, no thanks. I’ll pay $4 to pick them up somewhere else. Around $2 at Walmart, but they don’t actually have them.

The flex thing may work, if you know how to connect it. Or is it just some extension thing not the same thing? Seems like I’m missing something. And it’s just an extension thing, perhaps for the flex thing. If my mom still has the Dremel and stuff I gave her, she might have it. I’ll look for a cheaper flex thing though. Well, don’t really need it, at least not for 3D printer, since the printer is dead.

Doesn’t look like Hyper Tough makes a flex thing, bummer. Not sure there’s a universal one.

You’d probably have to modify the Dremel flex thing to work with something else, and possibly the rotary tool itself. According to something on DuckDuckGo, didn’t click it.

And some Dremel accessories may not work with it, some universal Dremel thing doesn’t work with it. Probably the accessories that go into the collet will.

The WEN might be a better buy, if you want a flex thing. As there might not be one for the Hyper Tough. Will the Drilax work? Only $12. Would have been cheaper to buy WEN.

Didn’t try turning it on, so maybe it doesn’t work either.

Maybe Universal Flexible Flex Shaft Extension Cord Flexible Shaft for Rotary Grinder Tool M8 Keyless Chuck Clamping Dia. 3.2mm will work, clicked another affiliate link. Copy and pasting the title is a pain, might not find the exact same thing, or might have to look through the search results.

Not sure the extra accessories were worth it, with no flex shaft.

Well, maybe tomorrow I’ll attempt at fixing the printer again.

And somebody said the Drilax works. For their Walmart branded tool. Did they say rotary tool? Just search reviews for Walmart, instead of Hyper Tough.

Drilax Flexible Rotary Drill Tool Drive Flex Shaft Attachment 42 inch Extension Fits 1/8 inch Collet Grinding, Polishing Compatible with Standard Rotary Tools

Somebody said Hyper Tough is junk, so it’s worse then Harbor Freight and WEN? Probably fine for plastic. That was on an accessory kit. Probably doing a hard job, that either requires expensive accessories, or all accessories get used up fast, for whatever they were doing. If the review doens’t give details, like what they were doing, it’s useless.

They just say tool, but the title for item, is “standard rotary tools”. I’ll let you know if it works, once I buy it, probably next month, after I fix printer. If no working printer, no need for the flex shaft.

Hyper Tough has a magnetic screwdriver kit, I don’t know if any name brands do. I lost one bit, and one broke, so I probably should get a new magnetic screwdriver kit. Are the magnets stronger? If so, it’s better then what I have. Now, you could weld a magnet onto a screwdriver. Or maybe print out a handle, that holds one.

That might be a better solution, a magnet holder, how strong of a magnet do you need? Might not work as intended though. Might just make the screw go to magnet, instead of where the screw goes.

Now a new problem, it can’t do the homing. It will move a little, then stop. At first, wouldn’t move at all.

When using butt connectors, don’t worry about twisting the wires. My hands can’t work with small stuff, so tiny wires, I can’t do much with. I can’t even see the wire, because my fingers cover it, so good luck. Do it by feel? Not sure I can feel the wire either, so good luck.

Twist it as good as you can, and keep the wires on top of each other, and push through the hole to where solder is. You obviously push one all the way through first, like the instructions on the inside of case say, I only read the instructions on the outside of the case, the first time.

Now if you are good with your hands, you can probably do a better job then me. When using heat gun, don’t keep it in one spot, that’s how you will get results like I did the first time practicing. Also, not all the shrink wrap will shrink if you do that. You don’t need to rotate wire though, just move sideways with the crappy reflector on the heat gun.

Oh and when pushing in, make sure the wire is still together on both ends, if not, you’ll have to try again, and again, and so on.

The fan spins, at least when the fan plastic cage thing isn’t on the printer, can’t tell when it’s attached, I can hear fans, not sure which ones. Maybe all of them. Maybe with a flashlight you can tell.

Put printer back in tent, as I might be able to fix it, with software, might just need to send gcode or whatever to it. Or reflash the firmware, don’t think that’ll fix it though. As resetting doesn’t fix it. At least the fan works, or should work.

Still surprised the soldering worked, couldn’t tell if the solder was even melting, either it melted, or the wires touching is good enough. You can test by messing with cable, if fan turns off, then you didn’t solder right.

And the hot end was on right, the cable just may have been in a bad spot. Said nozzle too hot or something when turning it on, with the cage on. Flipped it over, it turned on, but that isn’t good for the wire, as the cage will then touch the wire. Might not be able to screw it on. Didn’t even know it had a screw, it was the screw with the biggest top. That uses a screwdriver, not a shitty Allen wrench. I reversed it back to how it was, and made sure the cable wasn’t going under anything, instead push on the cable, so it can go through the opening on top of cage.

You can see the shitty soldering here. Too bad I didn’t take a video eh? Well, you’d see me struggling to twist the wires, or I’d fry my phone on accident. It doesn’t matter where I put tripod and camera, even if it was far away, I might still find a way to fry the phone. Should have at least taken a picture of how I was using the helping hands.

Oh and you’ll want helping hands, way easier. You only need it for the wire coming from the fan though, if the other cable is still attached to printer. Make sure the printer is off though. I put the helping hands on the bed of printer.

Going to go to the bathroom before messing with printer anymore. Got to lookup the article I saw on phone, on computer. Or find any article. Might look at OctoPrint and see if it can do anything. Or maybe there’s a plugin.

I think I basically need to reset the homing. Probably thinks it’s somewhere it isn’t. I moved the bed, and the hotend thing.

Might need to check some cable, might be on the main board. Too much work to do that today. If software can’t fix it, then I’ll mess with it some other day. Had a hard enough time with fixing the fan.

The limit switch is probably fine, I just sent M119 and says open. No idea where it is, so no idea how to see if it says closed with a finger on it. And hard to do, computer isn’t by printer. So good luck sending the command with your finger over it.

Clicked home button in OctoPrint, and it moved the hotend thing.

Oh and the heater block might be crooked from putting nozzle on, nice feature eh. Might be a pain to fix it. And OctoPrint disconnected from printer because of error.

But I guess, flashing the firmware might fix it. I’d switch to better firmware, but that is too complicated. And Klipper may have issues, nobody provided help to somebody on Reddit. So if I have that problem, I’ll be out of luck too. But how did the firmware kill itself?

The bed might be too high. No idea how to lower it. The level things don’t seem to lower it. Nice video, if you don’t read Chinese, you can’t see what they clicked on screen. Damn it, probably easier to do if you remove printer from tent. Don’t think that’s the problem, unless it’s supposed to go down more.

Think the fan is working, clicked turn fan off button in OctoPrint, then the on button.

Error reported by printer Your printer’s firmware reported an error. Due to that OctoPrint will disconnect. Reported error: Printer halted. kill() called!

That’s what happens if you click home button in OctoPrint. Watching another video. And perhaps you need to turn printer on, then plug into USB. Might have basically done that though.

I think it’s freezing when homing. It freezes when OctoPrint says the above, you can’t do anything on the screen. You can’t update firmware on screen, no micro SD card slot on the back of the screen, unless you have to open it, nobody said you do though.

Wish I knew how the hotend wires were originally. Apparently one wire can mess things up, if it’s close to other wires.

The shitty soldering could be to blame. But the fan works, so what’s the problem? Well, some wire strands did break off, while trying to twist em. And it might not be resetting correctly, you need to save it apparently after doing so. There is no “Reset EEPROM” on my printer though. I’ll run the commands using OctoPrint. But reflashing the firmware, should have done the same thing. Maybe it isn’t freezing, maybe just takes a really long time. Connected to USB on Orange Pi Zero 2, and it detected it. OctoPrint can’t connect though, so probably frozen again.

Does it need filament to do homing? If so that’s lame. Funny though, if entire printer freezes, because no filament. Doesn’t work with filament in printer either.

Well, apparently, to flash firmware for it, you need micro SD firmware on the card at same time, or you’ll temporary brick it. See here. Or only for that firmware?

Either way, I’m going to put those other files on it, and make a new name for the firmware filename. Maybe that’ll update the screen, since I see no micro SD card slot on it, and I don’t want to open it to find it. Good instructions they provide eh? So maybe it wasn’t flashing it at all.

Maybe the new motor doesn’t work, and it’s freezing it. Unplug the extruder motor and try again. Flashing firmware with the other files, didn’t change anything. But I didn’t reboot after doing so, did it right after it booted.

Well, I got farther, the belt for the hotend thing, was too tight I guess. But had to turn off, because it was hitting the bed. Auto leveling doesn’t seem to do anything. Probably need to do what the video showed and change the height of the thing. Or use a + offset. Make it the max for testing.

And I give up for now, turned it off and unplugged. I’ll try reflashing firmware, using one of my PNY cards, apparently the card it comes with is junk. Also need to find the micro SD slot on the screen apparently. Too bad nobody says if you have to open it.

If you have the wrong CPU, that firmware won’t work. You might have to open it to figure out what CPU it has, too much work. How would voltage switch get moved? Guess I need to check that too.

After dinner, I’ll check the voltage switch, and if that isn’t the problem, I’ll try a different outlet on surge protector. No idea why it worked more then it was once. Maybe it is a power problem, as it moves really slow when not working, then freezes.

Can the PSU in it be replaced? Not sure I have any extra power cables, the kind it uses. I’ll check all the connections again as well. Pretty sure that is fine though. Maybe plug the power cord into one of those power things that tells you the wattage and voltage. Kill a watt, is what it says on it. I’ll tighten the belts back up as well, since I don’t think that’s the problem.

Maybe I plugged it into a different outlet, when it was sort of working, but had to turn off, because it was hitting the bed. I loosened all the things on the bed, does that mean it can go down farther now? No idea. I doubt it’s level at all though.

Still don’t know how you are supposed to update screen firmware, there’s no micro SD slot on the screen, like everybody says there is. I might try using a PNY card though. Maybe you just copy the screen firmware to the card, put in it, and it’ll update. And then delete everything, put main board firmware on.

I’m too lazy to open screen to see if there’s a micro SD card. Already set to the right voltage, as I thought, changed it, and changed back. Still not working. Tried different outlet as well on surge protector. Not sure it will reach the outlet itself. So I guess the printer may be fried. Or something on the main board is loose. Maybe the motor for the movement not extruder, is bad already. Or does the extruder motor make it go up and down? If so, the gears might not be aligned, but I don’t think that motor is doing anything, without printing. Didn’t reboot itself, with just the screen firmware on the card.

But maybe it doesn’t work cause I have no filament sensor. There’s a command you can use to disable it. And probably only works with their firmware. If all fails, I can just try an older firmware, I guess. Might not be able to download the firmware it came with. Or was it on the same firmware? Think it was one behind.

Now it’s saying the nozzle temperature is high. Guess I need to look at hotend. I doubt it’s hot. Loosen the thermistor screw, which one is that? There’s two weird things on the hotend. The other one might fall out if you loosen it too much. Hopefully that didn’t fry it though. Don’t even know what a thermistor is. And if I losen the circle thing, it might fall out too.

And good luck fixing it. I opened the part where wires go, but no idea how to unplug anything, and not everything is labeled. I was going to try replacing the parts on hotend with the new parts that came with new hotend. Not sure which white wire is the right one, I think I found the red wires. The thing under screw apparently broke, it’s not connected to itself anymore, like a circle.

Where the wires go, something melted in there, like glue or something. Heat gun perhaps? No idea, something that looks like solder in there too. So now I think the nozzle wasn’t the problem with printer. Didn’t need to remove it apparently. Where the cables are, is that the motherboard? Perhaps not, think it’s just for the cables and micro SD card.

I’ll just order a better motherboard at some point, and perhaps whatever the cables are connected to, or is that the motherboard? No idea. But it’ll be a massive pain in the ass, good luck screwing the board in with it on it’s side, you’d have to push up, with probably an Allen wrench.

Actually, I won’t do it myself, as the screws are too small. And I can’t screw in small screws very well. They might replace the motherboard, but I don’t even know what CPU it has, so I don’t know if I can use third party firmware. I’m not messing with the printer anymore. The fan works, but apparently more then that was/is broken.

And that is the motherboard.

Look here. Don’t think that’s the real Creality site though. And you can see where everything goes in the pictures on that. Don’t ask me how to unplug anything though.

I think at this point, I should just sell it.

Didn’t need to cut zip tie probably, well to replace the cable maybe. I was just trying to get a better view. Watching video. You need a screwdriver, probably the one it came with.

And board is probably fine. It’s probably just glue. And they put printer on the side.

How much is a clone motherboard? Well, I might know how to replace cables now. It’s also labeled on the board. Or at least that one. Should save the image. Hmm, I think there’s only one white connector on the new cable. Does it somehow plug into two spots on the board? SKR Mini E3 V3 perhaps that and a new screen, my screen might not work with it.

Or don’t use the shitty screen, and use Klipper. It won’t even stay on the side of the printer. It works with Klipper. I clicked their affiliate link, cause I’m lazy. Under $50. If the printer is ever working right, perhaps I will upgrade the board.

I have a feeling, I’m gonna break the other thing that goes under the screw though. And why was the printer almost working? Then I had to shut it off, cause it was screwing up. I don’t want to order another hotend. If I do, I ain’t removing anything from it, well just the nozzle.

And I wonder if the power cord is the problem. Maybe the eGPU uses the same cable. No reviews on the SKR Mini E3 V3 saying if it works with my printer. There’s other options for different printers, but nobody said anything about my printer.

According to Reddit, the SKR Mini E3 V3 works.

Expensive printer. I should have bought a cheaper one. But it was only around $220 for printer itself. So probably one of the cheaper ones. If I ever get the courage to replace the hotend parts, maybe I’ll get a new board in the future. The hotend itself should be fine, but the other parts might need to be replaced, that the new one came with. Didn’t know how to plug it into the board, or where the board was. I just got lucky and found it. And how do you replace power supply?

Says it’s a drop in replacement, for all screens? Including my screen without a micro SD card?

The link with that motherboard, that has images of what goes where, I printed the image out. Just on regular paper, but with photo printer, laser printer isn’t color. You may or may not need color, but the photo printer doesn’t get used much.

Thanks to Utah. He had my shirt in his mouth, wouldn’t let go, so gave up, then he was pulling on my shirt. I thought maybe he’d change his mind and let go of my shirt, no I think he was going to rip it off. If she didn’t come in the room when she did, perhaps I’d be shirtless.

Maybe he was trying to remove it, or get me to get off the couch. Probably was doing it, because I wasn’t doing what he wanted.

No money to buy new shirts. So I’ll enjoy the hole. She bought this shirt, I think she bought three total. Now I need four more, instead of three. Or just get three, and keep this one too.

Hold Utah everywhere and cover the hole up with him. He might chew on you though.

And why couldn’t he just get on the couch and sit on my lap like he did sometime after that? Then there’d be no hole in my shirt. Now if I just held his mouth until she came back, maybe there’d be no hole.

Apparently getting dogs to change their mind about doing something doesn’t work. Why not? Probably the same reason they eat grass, and can’t figure out why they have problems. But I can’t figure out some stuff that humans are supposed to be able to figure out. Perhaps I have brain damage.

“other consciousness”, so she doesn’t believe it’s a shared consciousness. Or do different species all have their own shared consciousness? I’ll believe what God told a near death experiencer, over her.

Speaking of brain, what happened to my OCD? I can’t think the same OCD thought over and over again very well anymore. Hard to believe the new medicine does anything for OCD, might make me tired all the time though. Maybe being tired, makes your brain not work, and therefore fixes OCD. Brilliant, but not all OCD is gone. And I’m not doing anything to make the OCD better. So it’s mind boggling.

Maybe I’m losing my connection to the shared consciousness, and won’t be anything anymore.