No idea. Do depressed women that like men think they need a bf to be happy/loved?

Cause dogs give a ton of love. Without asking for it. Depending on how you take the death of dogs, you may never have anymore dogs though.

Dogs are better at giving love then humans, I’d reckon you don’t need a SO.

Almost any animal can give more love then humans are capable of giving for some unknown reason.

Hello, Start at 12:00PM GMT -7 on Saturday September 23rd, we will be taking each Directadmin node offline to perform a hardware upgrade. All nodes will be upgraded to Ryzen 7900 with extra RAM and 2x the local storage. This will nearly double the performance of the current nodes, and in some cases even more. We expect the downtime to take around 1 - 2 hours, depending on transfer times. We thank you for your patronage.

Only for this site, the two other sites, are on a different host.

Will it be as fast as ExtraVM? If so, I can cancel that when it’s time for renewal, it was a yearly deal I think. But probably won’t be, they don’t even seem to have memcache.

Lots of stuff you can no longer buy, at least for delivery. No meat anymore. No four pack of yogurt anymore. You have to buy individually now. For the flavor I want.

And if you search for rocky road ice cream in the app, it says not available for delivery from this store, yet appears to be if you go in a browser on a computer. Not worth adding, if their app and site are liars.

They don’t even have bacon anymore.

But they expect me to pay for Walmart+ when I can’t order what I want anymore? I have to go into a store soon, because Safeway will charge your other card if they substitute something. So if they don’t have exactly what’s in app, no EBT will be used for it, you can select no substitutions, and possibly get nothing for your entire order, a waste of time.

Guess delivery will no longer be a thing from Walmart soon. Not surprising, probably nobody wants to deliver it. Not enough money is being paid. So I might not even get my order tomorrow. Glad it was EBT only. No worries, I’ll cancel it, so it doesn’t renew next year, and go somewhere else. If they ask why I canceled it, I’ll type “You suck”.

sudo lpadmin -p Canon_G620_Everywhere -E -v "ipp://xxx/ipp/print" -m everywhere

Install the OpenPrinting stuff in openSUSE. And then run the above command. Easier then trying to find the everywhere driver.

Might still need the driver for the scanner, but don’t use it.

I remembered why it’s so fucking slow to access the printer QoS was limiting it, turned that off, cause it’s annoying. I only need to throttle internet connections, not local. How do I in OpenWRT tell it that the other subnet is local?

I printed a test page without issues. Except, I selected wrong paper on printer, looks like it used the print settings from computer so it worked anyways.

See this for more info.

My Canon printer has a Linux driver, just seeing if it works. Might buy a Pantum laser printer for documents, the Canon photo printer too fucking slow. Maybe not in grayscale mode, no idea. The Pantum printer the toner and drum is one thing, and cheaper then Brother. Currently $45 for the OEM one. Does less pages then the toner + drum setup, the drum can last 12,000 pages, and over 2k for the toner. But it’s more expensive if you barely ever print. You might be replacing the drum before 12k pages. I’d rather pay $45 for toner + drum, and OEM.

But I might get the third party drum, and see if it works, it might destroy the printer as well. Fine with me, it’s ancient.

The Pantum is smaller, so will fit on the shelf better anyways.

There’s even ipp-usb, so you can access web interface and use IPP Everywhere over USB. The hotspot needs to be disabled, I’ll look at manual before I buy it, if I ever do.

I could test ipp-usb with my Canon printer and the Orange Pi Zero 2. Share it with Samba or something. On it’s VPN IP of course.

Just noticed some unwanted marks on this print too, from the other printer. Never noticed with photo paper. Is this paper dusty or something? Probably no point in buying a new drum, if the other printer does the same thing.

Perhaps they both need to be dusted better. The tray on the laser printer is a little dusty on the inside. Doubt it’s OS/software, if the settings are right. How would the OS tell it to print random marks?

Looks like the toner I have in my printer is no good. Tried the other one, it has the same problem. You’d have to clean the drum after every print, to not get any marks, or very little marks.

Easier to buy a new drum and toner, from somebody else. No idea who the toner was bought from, possibly the same seller that sent the wrong drum.

Will just a bad drum cause toner to be on the white roller things? Or is that from a bad toner? They probably barely do anything to this toner, except refill it. So it sucks.

Cartridge World doesn’t say what they have on their site. Don’t really want to go there either.

I used a dry cloth to clean the drum.

Well, the toner from the drum manufacture on my wish list, may or may not be better, it’s a lottery apparently. So maybe just replace drum and hope that fixes it. I’ll wait till next month though.

The print quality is good enough till then. And since I barely print, maybe it’s good enough forever.

And it was bought from the same seller that shipped wrong drum.

How is Staple’s re manufactured toner for around $50? Looks like overpriced junk. Just like the cheap stuff.

Somebody said to shake the bag a ton though with the toner in it. Then clean it.

You are supposed to shake the toner? Not rock it back and forth? Well, that could explain the problem then. Too bad neither are in the bag anymore, and I’m too lazy to vacuum seal them just shake em. Make a mess instead, over garbage can. And possibly hands.

Actually, I think I should retire it, and just use the other printer, no toner in that printer. Slow as fuck, but who cares. And third party ink should be fine, at least for printing text. There’s no drum. You can’t buy the official maintenance cartridge though, at least not last time I looked.

The drum should be $10, maybe then it’s worth replacing. The printer is ancient.

Might be mostly fixed, you have to shake the toner. I used the toner I was originally using, that wasn’t in the printer. I still have the bag from the other toner, and the plastic thing that goes on it, which collects toner while shaking it. That’s good news, perhaps I should vacuum seal it though, not sure it will last otherwise, the other one. But I’m lazy.

Cleaning the drum is a pain, the roller thing doesn’t move easily. So if using a dry cloth, faster then using paper, you might not get it all. Drum is light sensitive, so you can’t have lots of light.

So I think I’ll shake the toner some more in the future, and clean the actual toner too, and replace drum. Didn’t clean the toner itself after shaking it, too lazy. Should do one more print, just to see if it’s worse yet. Two prints perfect I think, not the first one, but two after it. Last one had a little dot.

I’d order a drum from the same seller, but I don’t exactly trust them. I did get a refund, but no shipping info until I asked for it. And they shipped the wrong one. Maybe not have gotten any shipping info if I didn’t ask, I guess it would just show up. Also, they might be mad, at me, for opening the wrong thing and trying to use it.

User error, brilliant.

Oh use corectrl to increase the power usage on a AMD GPU in Linux, if it’s being power throttled, I’m using a new enough kernel with patch that fixes throttling info in MangoHUD. Was limited to 100w, now 120w. I use a AMD 6600 XFX. Still says power throttling, but not at 100w or less. I can use 120w or close to 120w now. Thanks for the throttling, whoever throttled it. That will reduce stuttering as well. Or at least it seems smoother, like her ass.

The print I just did, three little dots. Too lazy to try cleaning drum anymore. Easier to replace it, it’s ancient, never been replaced. If you use something wet, it would be easier to wipe up. Now I have a wash cloth, that needs washing, but probably by itself, so I’ll leave it dirty forever.

Does Cartridge World sells drums too?

A little over 90 MB/s read average, according to f3read, and f3write said 28 MB/s I think.

No corruption or overwritten data. Need to copy the data from the card in Steam Deck to it now.

I use a Kingston card reader. Probably only USB 3.0.

Making an image of the partition, then I’ll resize it using Gparted. After putting it on the new card.

The read speed using dd, went under 28 MB/s, what the new card writes at. I wonder if it would read all 900 GB or so at 90 MB/s, or if it would slow way down. If not, then it’s way faster then the PNY card. Not the cheapest PNY card, supposed to be fast. Gaming class PNY card. Apparently Lexar might be better.

I don’t buy SanDick, nothing better, their stuff can die too, I have or had a flash drive from them, that has or had issues. Not to mention, most popular brand, more likely to get fake junk, you overpaid for.

And it probably won’t be done today. Still copying the partition to a drive, to restore to the new card. The drive it’s copying to, shouldn’t be the bottle neck. Under 20 MB/s though.

dd is probably safer/easier, as Linux has permissions, depending on how you copy the files, you may have issues. But it might be slower. I’ll know when I restore it, if it drops to under 20 MB/s, I guess using dd is slower.

Does a shitty micro SD card cause some games not to work on the Steam Deck if the game is on the card? Maybe that’s why Just Cause 3 works for some people on Steam Deck and not others, too bad nobody claimed that’s the case.

Probably not enough space on the Steam Deck for the game, so can’t try it that way.

7:30 PM, and still not done making backup from smaller card. Still need to reboot computer, easier then trying to restart stuff after updating, systemd doesn’t like being restarted, zypper ps -s, still says it’s using deleted files if you restart it.

Update
It wrote the backup faster then it backed it up. Only went down to around 28 MB/s. But just as expected, Just Cause 3 still doesn’t work. You must need to win the lottery on what Steam Deck you get. I did restore the Steam Deck once, because of WiFi issues. That didn’t fix Just Cause 3.

TV looks better on wall, that is the picture looks better, no idea why. Well, you can point it at yourself.

Jeff said it’s strong, the TV isn’t going to fall off the wall.

It was a pain though. I finally asked if I can put TV on wall, they said you’ll be charged to repair holes when you move. Speaking of, when am I moving though? There’s nowhere to move.

Got a new floor though, had to move most of my stuff to another unit temporally. I stayed at my mom’s for a day or so. Bodhi thought it was great. So if I get evicted, Bodhi won’t mind. Last night, they went to the movies, and Bodhi wanted to go to bed, so did Utah. But Utah can’t go in the room I was in, he’ll take toys, and chew them up. Not to mention, my stuff. Not nice to let Bodhi in and not Utah. So I just stayed up till they got back.

And while I was gone, the fly trap collected lots of flies. Did they leave my door open or something?

Only three boxes left to unpack. Glad the apartment isn’t bigger.

Might only take ten hours to run f3write on 1 TB Lexar micro SD card. I test before using them, so if it’s fake, I don’t find out the unpleasant way. And if it takes ten hours, that might be enough of a stress test, to see if it’ll just die. f3read shouldn’t kill it. That’s next, how long for that? Another ten hours?

Got that for Steam Deck. Cause PC games are too fucking big. I’m paying monthly for it, cause I didn’t want to shell out $70 or whatever all at once. Good choice, I had enough for a TV wall mount I didn’t know I was buying. That was $50 or so after tax.

Steam Deck dock, and Mac mini need HDMI cable plugged in, but I’m lazy, too lazy to find the HDMI cable that’s connected to monitor, I keep finding Ethernet cable plugged into Steam Deck dock. Mac mini needs power plugged in too. And the USB switch.

That’s why internet appears to be slow, the DNS is slow as fuck, so takes a long time to lookup IP. Which will appear as slow internet to most people. Only 4870 ms for Cloudflare DNS. Nice. It’s set to get the fastest IP or something, Adguard Home, because one of my sites wouldn’t load on some DNS, it couldn’t find the IP, probably Cloudflare being a dick and changing my DNS. But I think I’ll change that. Too slow for wget. My update script for Adguard doesn’t work with slow DNS apparently. Disabled that setting, was able to update Adguard.

So Cloudflare DNS is the slowest DNS? Or maybe Adguard’s DNS is. Slowing all the other ones down. Good idea, remove that. You can use Adguard Home without their DNS server.

No more boxes tonight. I got sweaty enough so far today.

I’d reckon, I can’t afford an iPhone 15. This one might have been cheaper. USB C is nice, $700 not so much. And the Pro is better, it can replace my camera. But $1,000 not so nice.

I brought the Steam Deck to her house, so I could play Guild Wars 2. Better then a laptop or desktop. Smaller.

And the iPhone 15 might actually be $800, according to radio. I think my iPhone 13 mini was around $600. Guess I’ll wait for a USB Type-C iPhone SE.

Walmart’s site didn’t seem to say what distances from studs it supports, or I didn’t read that part. I skimmed it, didn’t see it. But it supports 16" and 24". If the studs aren’t 16" or 24" apart, it won’t work for you.

Most of the reviews are paid, or not verified.

But it works fine for me so far. My HDMI ports are on the side of my TV, but the Ethernet is on the back, you can get to the back ports with it easily. Well worth the money.

Was it 95.3%? Perhaps, don’t recall what DisplayCAL said. Just know it was 95.something.

And I think that is the same as the old monitor, at least 95%. Might only be advertised as 93%.

I used an old Huey Pro, that’s all I have. Seems to work fine, so no need to upgrade it. Apparently you need a newer one for HDR, I have that turned off though.

And I can see colors I couldn’t before calibrating, and possibly not on other monitor either, nice. Clearly should have calibrated that one too.

Had to adjust brightness and contrast on monitor to get the RGB what DisplayCAL wanted. Adjusting just RGB wouldn’t work. I needed more whatever then I could have, it was already 100 for some.

If I ever get a new device for calibrating, it has to be compatible with DisplayCAL, or I’ll be limited to using the Mac software, unless there is none, then it might be useless.

Apparently I’m not the only one that doesn’t eat enough or any fiber. Except, I shit once a day usually, at least. All I need is a tiny bit of fiber. Or caffeine.

So no laxatives won’t affect me much. I might have some anyways. So a fiber shortage next? And if you have IBS, fiber might not do the trick. Bummer for those that eat enough fiber but still need laxatives. Thanks to the people like me, except I think they might be worse, eat no fiber. I must eat some.

I bought some kind of fly trap from Walmart. They get stuck to it. I think.

But I think a spider may have eaten some of them, some starved, cause there’s nothing in sink for them anymore. As I don’t feel all itchy like bugs are all over me anymore. I actually slept great last night, I was also really tired.

That was one reason I couldn’t fall a sleep the day before. Kept feeling like bugs were crawling on me.

I won’t kill spiders anymore, they might bite me, but that’s better then flies.

There was a bug that looked like a spider, but skinny, never seen a spider like that, should have let them live. If any bugs landed there, they might have eaten them. Do they allow pet spiders? They allow birds, I’m talking about a bigger spider. You have to let them loose though. But might solve the fly problem. They’ll be my friend, simply for getting rid of annoying flies. Even though I might not like how they look. Can you teach them not to go on beds though? Cause they don’t need to be on bed while I’m sleeping, I might rollover on them, and then they might bite me. I could close the door, and let em loose in the other room. But that won’t get rid of flies in my room while I’m sleeping.

I’ll say they are an emotionally support spider. Birds live in cages, so what’s the problem? Might keep all bugs out of my apartment. Assuming they don’t escape, from where the AC is. Damn, won’t work then, can’t leave them out while sleeping, or not paying attention to them. Unless they are like a dog, and go everywhere I go.

Get a cage with holes, so flies can fly in there. They seem to be pretty stupid, so that might work. Or get one of those light fly trap things, so you don’t have to keep buying the sticky fly traps. Except, a ten pack is under $3, how much is the light fly trap thing?

$18 for whatever that fly trap is. So that is a light and sticky things that you have to keep buying? Might as well pay under $3 for whatever I bought. Unless it has poison, in that case, I might get poisoned soon. What I bought has no insecticides, so might be fine.

Is a bug zapper like a mini Tesla coil? That’s what it reminds me of.

If you’ve never cleaned your printer, it may take an hour or longer to do it. I’d recommend cleaning the printer much more often.

I wasted some paper, because I didn’t realize you could reuse it as many times as you want. Just reuse until it’s super dirty looking. And do one side until it’s super dirty, then the other side. Three or four pieces used after doing it the right way. But two or more pieces wasted from not doing it right.

The paper with cleaning stuff on it, may work better, but you only get three pieces and costs more. But might be worth it, if you’ve never cleaned your ancient printer.

I used it on my laser printer. Oh and the Office Depot stuff, with cleaning stuff on it, may jam your printer, and may require complete disassembly to fix. If you’ve recently paid $500 for a printer, I wouldn’t recommend using the Office Depot paper. Now if you have a really old printer, who cares. Office Depot doesn’t seem to sell that paper on their site. I didn’t get the three pack Office Depot paper, didn’t want to pay that much for three pieces.

The brand of what I bought is Digital Nc. The ASIN is B014EVGYH8.

Somebody said thick paper will do basically the same thing. In that case, I need to find some paper about as thick as it. Might be cheaper.

Oh and the paper came with marks on it, like their printer was dirty, so they don’t even clean their own printer.

The cleaning stuff you do manually, not the paper method, is probably the best. There might be a kit on Amazon. Probably way faster.

Well the print test page from my computer, didn’t seem to have any marks on it. So it looks like no new drum needed, I needed to clean printer. I may decide to get the cleaning kit in the future, not the paper. As it’s a real pain in the ass doing the paper method with this paper.

I shredded a bunch of paper that was on printer, it’s easier to dispose of that way, and some stuff needed to be shredded.

Now if you use that after every print, you may not need to clean it manually with a cleaning kit. Even once a week might be enough. But I don’t use m printer that often, not even once a month. I use it randomly. So maybe once a year is enough for me.

Can’t imagine how bad your prints would be, if you’ve had your printer as long as me, and print a lot everyday. I think the prints would be unusable, and unreadable. And you would have cleaned it sooner, or paid somebody to.

I should tell my mom that she might want to clean her printer. Or in the future, she’ll think it’s broken. I said something about that once to her. She probably won’t though. I did scan the paper that I correctly used the first time, but I think iOS did something to make it look less dirty. Too lazy to use my printer with a scanner, and all I know, is it’ll do the same thing.

Well, I won’t be cleaning anybody’s never cleaned before printer with this paper. They can do it themselves or pay somebody, I won’t do it for money either.

Can I do the print function without a blank document and clicking print? I know if I click the button three times, it prints the self test page. But I don’t want to actually print something, just have the paper go through it. Now if the printer was on the desk, it might not be so bad. But also, I have to open a thing to put paper back in, and close it. Pretty sure you have to close it. I got a little sweaty from doing that.

Just imagine if somebody uses their printer more, never cleaned it, and wants me to clean it. I might have a heart attack. Either that, or have a lot more sweat.

And for some reason, the first time you use the paper, it may look pretty clean. That is why you have to do it a ton. Most likely more then 30 times for me, and way longer then 15 minutes. Somebody on Amazon said that’s how many times they had to do it, and how long it took.

How long to manually clean it with cleaning kit? Probably 15 minutes or less. Must better if you are cleaning many printers.

Haven’t noticed any bad pixels. Nor have I noticed the backlight bleed or whatever the old monitor was doing. But you do have to look for whatever the other monitor was doing.

Well, ViewSonic might have better QA then Pixio.

The hardest part was plugging in the cables. There’s a shelf in the way to easily do it.

Update
Looks like I found a good cheap monitor brand ViewSonic. Seems like all the other monitors I’ve had recently, like the last one, and some before, all had dead or problem pixels. This one somehow seems perfect.

And games are smoother, at least Guild Wars 2 is. But I doubt I’ll get 160 FPS, what I have MangoHud limited to. Maybe I should run it at 144Hz.

The desktop itself seems smoother too, just like her buttocks.

Doesn’t say OMNI on it, like the pictures on Amazon. Which they might want to fix, as people might return it. Saying not as advertised. So change the pictures, or change the monitor. Mine just says ViewSonic on it.

I disabled the auto switching thing though, it’s annoying. And the Steam Deck still thinks it’s hooked up to old monitor. Might need to unplug and plug back in dock. Or reboot it. Or both.

The flicker free thing might be always on, didn’t see an option to enable or disable. Perhaps I should turn brightness down, somebody said their monitor got a burned in image or something, can’t recall what monitor. Did that monitor even have a flicker free thing? So LCD or LED monitors have to flicker to prevent burn in?

Turned brightness down to 60%. Might be too low though. Cause I like it bright, just like her, brighter then me that is.

Isn’t this IPS? Well IPS isn’t that great, look at it at the right angle, and the color on right and left side don’t match very well. Might still be darker on one side, even not looking at an angle. Oh you might have to be completely centered. Not bothersome enough to send it back. And a setting might “fix” that anyways.

Still better then Pixio, no bad pixels. And you can adjust the height as well. And apparently rotate it, so maybe you can rotate it and plug in the cables easier.

Might be the distance from monitor that’s causing one side to be darker.

It’s color uniformity and nothing you can do about it. Except, I think on a BenQ I enabled something, and it was better. You can return and hope next one is better. But no bad pixels, means I’m keeping it. And threw box away anyways.

Still doesn’t make sense, that getting closer, makes it look brighter. Maybe only a lamp on is no good. Easier to change the bulbs in lamp, then on ceiling. You either need a ladder, or to ask them to do it.

The Pixio I don’t think had any color uniformity issues. But it had other issues. And games are smoother now, maybe FreeSync wasn’t working.

I was charged, and I used a PayPal debit card. That isn’t prepaid?

Well, I better ask for the info to port out, before the next bill. Cause I’m not giving them my credit union card. They don’t even have two step verification.

My Spider v1.0 didn’t last long. I removed the nozzle, which seemed to easy, might explain why printing wasn’t working. Put new nozzle on, but tightened it too much, so was testing to see if it would be removable, and it broke. So need a new heat block and heat break now. Unless the heat break can be removed, doubtful.

I think I’ll just go back to old hotend. Well, need a new heat block, cause the new temperature thing won’t work with it.

I’d have to solder the old worse temperature thing back on to use it. And Creality doesn’t sell the Spider v1.0 anymore.

“BZ 3D 1PC CR6 SE Plated Copper Heater Block Upgrade with Silicone Sock for CR-6 SE/CR-6 MAX/CR-5 Pro/CR10 Smar/Ender 3 Neo/V2 Neo/Max Neo Cartridge Sensor Heater Block.” hopefully I have nozzles that work. Cause I bought it. Might use the nozzles for the printer, not the longer Spider nozzles.

I have a heat break, I think, says I bought the two pack last time. Also, should work with the other one in the old hotend anyways.

The hotend will basically be the same as a Spider with that heat block and the heat breaks I have.

I’d reckon broken socket wrenches don’t tighten nozzles, or the nozzle got loose somehow.

Pizza might fit in that better. I got it today, well she didn’t drop it off yet. That is leftover slices of pizza.

I like that brand, same brand I think as my food dehydrator. And the thing I gave my mom.

Claims you can scan bar codes of some frozen food, and it knows how to cook it. Probably not everything.

You can do more complicated cooking, different temperatures for different amounts of time.

The Instant Pot Air Frying lid, is very basic, you have to set it to half the time, if you need to shake. You can’t pause on my Instant Pot. It came with the lid, but it’s small, and very basic.

Maybe this one can cook small pizzas better. But my oven couldn’t cook it very well either, so I won’t buy anymore.

How long till it gets hacked? It most likely requires a connection to their server to work. So blocking it from the internet, probably won’t work. That’s how it’ll be setup at first, until I unblock it. Or did I get rid of my block? No idea. If it downloads the firmware from the internet, not your phone, then it can’t be blocked either.

I put the air frying lid for Instant Pot in a cupboard, so hopefully there’s enough room on the counter for it. The Instant Pot is too tall, and I’m too lazy to try and move the shelf up. Can it go in cupboard sideways? The air fryer will probably be used more often, especially if it does a good job.

I ordered some silicone liners for it from Walmart, for shipping, I have Walmart+ so the shipping is free and one day faster then Amazon, and $0.99 cheaper then what I canceled on Amazon.

I think my Instant Pot air frying basket is around 3 qt, a little under 4 qt. So even 4 qt would be slightly bigger. If I can fit three slices of pizza in it, I’ll be a happy not as fat of a fat ass.

Yes, I bought that over Ninja, and even PowerXL. PowerXL only has a 90 day warranty, this one I think is two years. Some people say the Ninja air fryers aren’t that great, so you may just be paying for the brand.

And dedicated Instant Pot Air Fryers, might not be so good either. Once again, paying for the brand. Well, I’m probably paying for this brand too, only $10 off. At least everything I’ve owned from them, has been fine.

And it fits where I planned on storing it when not in use. Can’t run test run yet, baskets and crap in dishwasher. I put the inner basket on the top rack, maybe the handle won’t break that way, like it did for somebody else. Not enough room in dishwasher for the other basket on top too, with the other accessory thing it came with. Too tired to clean by hand. Got up early because of stomach hurting, had to shit apparently. Maybe I was constipated and it finally came out.

The preheating worked, one more test run to do, after the baskets cools down. Can’t connect to WiFi yet, because baskets have to be in machine. Power button does nothing without baskets. Handle didn’t break off in dishwasher.

It has a steak setting, if the steak will fit in your air fryer, it can probably cook it, even without a steak option.

My Instant Pot doesn’t even have a preheating function like this one. Guess it heats up then starts cooking. Not much different then manually preheating.

Might have a new smell, probably the reason for testing it. And to know if you need to return it.

Second test run finished. Letting the baskets cool for thirty minutes, then I’ll connect to WiFi. Do they need to be washed again already? Nothing was in it. Might have burned some kind of residue off though. Well, if the food tastes funny whenever I use it, then I’ll be able to tell you, yes it needs to be washed again.

Need to setup the WiFi, so I can see if it knows how to cook one little pizza I have left, that don’t cook right in oven either. My oven isn’t very old. So I doubt it’s broken already. You can’t get it very hot without burning it, even in the oven.

Then I need to go to store, and scan frozen stuff, to see what it can cook. Then buy everything it can cook, without me having to think or read.

It appears as though a waffle maker thing behind it doesn’t matter, doubt there’s five inches between them. I’m too lazy to find somewhere to put the waffle iron or maker whatever it is. I don’t even use it. I think I need a fly trap though.

Every time a fly flies by me close to my face, I get pissed. I try to make sure there’s no food on the floor or counter. But the flies won’t leave. Guess I should clean the sink out faster. But I doubt that’ll work either. The flies moved in.

It requires internet access, or it’ll say to change DNS server. Which wouldn’t fix it, in my case. It’s updating firmware now. Says updating firmware failed, but there’s no way to attempt again, so probably a buggy app. That network is also throttled, so updates may take longer, depending how big it is.

Said 360F for six minutes for that little pizza. How cold will it be? The stuffed pizza things, that are like little hot pockets, no cooking information, perhaps because I unplugged the Air Fryer. I’m not leaving it plugged in, not enough room, and bad idea anyways. Anything with WiFi + heat = bad to leave plugged in.

The stuffed pizza things have instructions though for the air fryer. That app is a good way to get calories, to enter into my fitness pal though. Use the free fitness pal, and the free VeSync. Well, VeSync might keep track of your calories too. In other words, don’t pay for my fitness pal. I’m still too lazy to keep track, even if I can scan my food. I don’t eat breakfast anymore apparently, so lost two pounds. Maybe I have a bad case of IBS, from not enough fiber. IBS can make you lose weight. So can not taking Zyprexa anymore.

Now OctoPrint can’t do the bed leveling, so it craps out.

Perhaps I should put some other firmware on it again.

Somebody said to run an auto level on the printer itself first. Well, I’m done messing with it for today.

Tried printing with PrusaSlicer, and the nozzle I think was touching the bed. Possibly because I was trying to print 0.02 or is it 0.2? Well, either way, apparently you get to mess with the Z offset a lot. Different temperatures too. While trying to set the Z offset correctly, it appeared to be too far away.

So no idea what PrusaSlicer did.

Nozzle could be clogged as well. You have to heat up the nozzle to fix that, then use the needle and hope you don’t burn yourself. Might just change the nozzle instead.

Putting different firmware on it, is probably a good idea. But not the custom firmware I was using, you have to pay now to get latest version, or I can’t find free download link. I have an old version, but I’ll pass.

It’s only a good idea, if you want to monkey around with it even more. I’ll continue using stock firmware. Klipper is most likely the biggest pain in the ass firmware. And it might not support screens, so good luck adjusting offset if the computer isn’t by it. I’d rather not use a tablet or my phone. Or even a computer. Using the screen is convenient.

Or just use the version of that other third party firmware I already have. No monkey around needing with that. Except for unscrewing LCD screen to put micro SD card in to flash it.

They sent an incompatible drum for my laser printer, but I didn’t check the box before opening and trying to put it in. Toner wouldn’t fit, and just to see, it doesn’t even fit in printer. Then I looked at the compatible printers, and didn’t see mine. Looked at the box, and they sent crap that isn’t what I ordered.

You might not have to pay return shipping though, but it’s the last time I order from that seller. They use a supplier, that gives you the wrong item. Probably didn’t even have what I ordered. So they just sent something else.

If I order a new drum on Amazon, I’ll be sure to check the box and instructions, to make sure my printer is compatible.

I needed DR360, not DR630. The 3 is first, not second. Either way, annoying as fuck.

At least it still prints, so I might do nothing. Maybe send it back, if I can. Otherwise throw it out.

Is it the drum that causes ink to be in spots it shouldn’t be? I just cleaned the wire, by moving the thing back and fourth, but didn’t fix it. Didn’t do so when changing the toner, I thought I was supposed to do something, but couldn’t remember what. Looked up changing the toner for my printer. Maybe it needs to be cleaned more, but how many times is “several” times? I did more then two times, possibly more then four times.

The toner I put in it, is fine. Except, for the spots ink is that shouldn’t be. Way better then old toner.

Easier to replace drum, then try and clean the stupid wire. But I might wait for refund.

Update
Probably don’t need a new drum, ordered some cleaning paper sheets, to see if that solves the problem. I’m too lazy to clean it manually. Might take many passes of the paper to clean it, but ten sheets is cheaper then a new drum.

If it doesn’t fix it, then maybe it is the drum.

I suppose the toner could be the problem too, but it’s fine other then ink or whatever being in spots with nothing. That is no text or anything, just ink or something. But where there is text, it looks great. I do have another toner, but it’s the same kind. Would suck if they both have that problem. So hopefully the cleaning paper is the solution, it’s never been cleaned.

I may have decided to get the ViewSonic after all. The first one I saw that I thought might work.

I think the P3 or whatever color, for my current monitor is 95%, I think the ViewSonic is only 90%. So will lose 5%, I don’t care. The ViewSonic has eye care and flicker free. Don’t think the Sceptre does.

If you want the worse BenQ panel monitor, the Acer Nitro XV272U Vbmiiprx 27" has the same panel I think, supposedly. And it’s cheaper, $230 new. No need to gamble if you get that one. Now if you get lucky, you might get the LG panel with the BenQ, but you have to spend $250 at least, for a refurbished one, and hope you get the LG.

But not sure that Acer has eye care or flicker free either, so no thanks.

Now if I send it back, I don’t know what I’ll get. Maybe the same one. Assuming it’s just too many broken pixels.

I would get a VA panel, for a little less from ViewSonic, but not 10 bit, not even fake 10 bit, like this one. I think this one has FCR or whatever, just like my current monitor. VA will have a better picture possibly, and possibly ghosting. But I don’t recall noticing ghosting really or very much on an old 16ms monitor. When LCD monitors weren’t around as long.

Apparently IPS monitors are better with light. I have a lamp on at least all the time. Might not be bright enough though. I can easily change the light bulbs in it, and don’t have to ask anybody to do it.

This one might look better if you turn the light on, doesn’t get rid of the weird thing on the bottom though in certain spots. Might make it more visible actually.

Somebody at Goodwill might want a Pixio monitor, for hopefully cheap. If I were to have two monitors, it would be the one for games, in this case the ViewSonic, and my old BenQ. No reason to keep this monitor. Or just pay $270 or whatever, for the non gaming ViewSonic, I think it’s calibrated better, then I’d have two ViewSonic monitors. No FreeSync, so no good as one and only monitor.

I replaced the part with the other gear on it, and the gear that goes on motor, for the extruder. I just used the bottom piece that came with other extruder. I’m guessing, they are exactly the same.

Put filament back in as well. Maybe tomorrow I’ll try printing.

Gears move, so I assume it’s right. Move together that is.

Update
Not sure the motor was bad or not, still won’t print. Checked the E steps, and it was wrong. Must have reset it. Not digging other motor out of trash though. This motor might be better anyways, pretty sure it works, as it was moving the filament. Just nothing coming out yet. It’s heating up again now.

If it still won’t print, maybe there’s a clog in the tube. And I’ll just pay $15 for the direct drive bracket, which uses this extruder and motor.

Lost some filament, as I was trying to push it in more, while messing with it, it broke off. Had to rotate the printer to get the filament back in. I wonder if the hole is in a different spot on the bottom piece that came with new extruder. Cause it’s a real pain to get the filament in.

And it’s finally printing. Looks like the Z offset is right so far. Will it skip and miss part of the print if the E steps is wrong? It will stop printing completely, so probably.

I think the only thing I’m good at is setting the Z offset, but it took a long ass time to figure that out. Maybe not good at setting Z offset, doesn’t look very good so far. Perhaps the temperature isn’t right.

Going to wait for it to finish, so I can decide what to do. But it’s pretty close to the bed, the nozzle, so hard to believe the Z offset isn’t good enough.

The skirt circle looks perfect though. Or not, just part of it. Calibrating the E steps is too much work. Do you have to do so with direct drive? If not, that’s well worth $15. Looks like that might be too much work. Somebody said to calibrate the E steps, might as well keep what I have then.

And it might be looking better anyways.

Takes a long ass time to print a gunk stopper apparently, over an hour. Maybe two hours or more total.

I may have reset it, after it stopped printing. As it wouldn’t print at all, with the E step wrong now. It just stopped printing last time. So the motor is probably dead anyways.

Looks like a little over an hour to print. 18 minutes left.

It’s possible the first layer is worse as well. Is the nozzle too close? I doubt it. More like the temperature might be too low I guess.

Print Time: 00:54:54, didn’t even take an hour. Nice estimates.

Nothing on nozzle, so I’d reckon, the Z offset must be right. But the print isn’t very good at all. Warping possibly? Waiting for it to cool down before taking a picture and removing it.

Looks like stringing, as the center hole, should be a hole, nothing should be there. At least the nozzle is clean.

Photo of print.

Looking at reviews on a different ViewSonic, I was going to get a ViewSonic, not sure photos will look good, without messing with it. And no eye care on the IPS model I found that’s on my wishlist.

But is any cheaper monitor really going to be better then the one I have? A higher refresh rate, but the picture might look worse.

But the Sceptre has two DisplayPort ports. That is the main reason to get it. Reviews seem good for it, except it died after six months for one person, guess they didn’t ask for warranty service.

There might be some weird flickering with my Pixio. Not sure it has backlight bleed or what it is, you need the right color for it to show.

Maybe if I get a new one, I should keep this one for a while after, in case it looks way worse. Or dies. I have an old BenQ, I think it’s 1440p, but no FreeSync. I won’t part with that one. BenQ are the best monitors I’ve seen, the picture quality. Even cheap refurbished ones. But I only want IPS or VA, no TN or whatever. And BenQ is like $400 for a new one with FreeSync, or $319 refurbished. If I pay $319, perhaps I’ll never need a new monitor.

The Acer on my wishlist could work, if you get a good one. But I don’t want to return 4 or more times.

Is the Sceptre really an Acer? That is the same panel. If so, I guess it could work.

versus.com doesn’t have my Pixio. According to that site, the Sceptre is somehow better then ViewSonic. But it’s comparing specs. Not many reviews on the ViewSonic. Well, probably not on Sceptre either.

How many bits is this panel? As the Sceptre is 10. Probably the same, or less. Says ViewSonic is 8. So the Sceptre wins. It’s 10 bits, don’t get under 10 bits, that might mean Sceptre, no idea what Acer is. Is it true 10 bits? Cause mine is 8 bit + FRC.

The HDR might be semi useless on my Pixio.

But is Pixio really a great brand? Cause Sceptre isn’t. So going from one cheapo brand to another. According to that site, Acer is worse then Sceptre and ViewSonic. Good to know, cause I don’t want to send it back four times.

But they should compare the actual picture. And only the Sceptre is 10 bit, from the Acer Nitro XV272U V 27", Sceptre E275B-QPD168 27", and ViewSonic Omni VX2718-2KPC-MHD 27".

Not sure the ViewSonic is the exact same model, ViewSonic Omni VX2728J-2K according to Amazon, no PC-MHD. And the Acer is Acer Nitro XV272U Vbmiiprx on Amazon.

Rtings.com only has the Acer.

Says it has a one year warranty, so six months, I assume is covered. Need to find an adapter to plug Mac mini in by DisplayPort, think you use the Thunderbolt/USB C port. If it has to many bad pixels, send it back, I’ll use the Staples option, they pack and send it back. Cheaper to use HDMI, either a cable or adapter needed. I think I’ll just keep HDMI for the Mac mini. Until I decide to spend money on expensive adapter.

You can get the BenQ MOBIUZ EX2710Q refurbished for $250 on eBay, but you are playing the lottery. Two different panels, apparently one is better.

So I think buying a new Sceptre from Amazon is better. Less, and easier to return. I don’t want a green tint, and don’t want to have to mess with settings to make it look right.

Not real 10 bit, the BenQ, it has FCR or whatever too. I’m guessing the Sceptre does too. What panel does the Sceptre use though? Samhung? That means you get a Samhung for way cheaper.

That doesn’t answer what panel Sceptre uses, just that they are US company and manufactured in China, like almost everything.

The Sceptre might not have picture in picture, bummer. Don’t use it much anyways though. Do they have a more expensive model with flicker free?

Hmm the Sceptre says the backlight life is 30,000+ hours. Only 1250 days. So it might last around 3 years, like this one. Except, I think the backlight is still working.

At least with that one, I could get a DisplayPort adapter for Mac mini.

How does the Sceptre score one more then BenQ? According to a BenQ fanrobot, like myself, that isn’t possible. Well, that sells it. Who cares about USB ports on monitor. It’s brighter and better contrast.