Perhaps filament isn’t pushed in far enough, but it wouldn’t seem to go any farther.

In that case, maybe there’s a leak. Can’t smell any melted plastic I don’t think, and neither can air purifier. Air purifier usually says the air is worse when running printer.

Waiting for it to cool down now.

I’m guessing filament wasn’t in right, I checked the hose on both sides. First the hotend side. But the other side, because filament wouldn’t go in. Cut some filament off, and some broke off, finally went in easily.

And the manual bed leveling must have been really bad, because now the offset would be -0.12 probably, after doing math. I set it to -0.20, but the paper is only 0.08 I think, and internet says 0.20mm for offset.

With an offset that low, I’m trying to print first. As it might not matter.

Filament coming out, but sticking to nozzle, not all of it did though. It actually sort of printed a little, then started sticking to nozzle. Got to wait for it to cool down again, to get the filament off it. And look that up, probably again. Can’t recall if that’s the offset or not. Maybe it needs +0.12. Or change the layer to 0.2 instead of 0.1. LOL, I doubt 220C is too cold for PLA.

Says you can lower the layer height for PLA. That is under 0.1mm. But decreasing the speed is easier.

Maybe none of it was completely on the bed, one long string.

The print speed might be the best thing to change first. But if you want to print faster, you just have to increase the temperature then? So 240C for PLA? Or hotter. And 35 mm/s not slow enough. Going to try 0.05mm for layer height, and maybe increase printing speed, looked funny, some of what printed. Should probably leave it at 35 though. The first layer print is already 5 mm/s. And that’ll increase the print time, 0.05mm layer height.

Maybe the retraction speed is wrong. 5mm retraction distance might be worse. Changed that back to 10mm, and lowered the retraction speed.

Hmm, the E steps per mm, was probably wrong, not exactly sure what that does though. Different Extruder. Review said 140, another said 139, search engine said to measure and calculate. Let’s see what happens at 140 like review said.

That didn’t seem to do much, at least not with the print speed increased to 50 mm/s.

Apparently printing with 3D printers is hard as fuck.

So printer “works” just can’t print right.

I suppose I could reset my settings. And start at the default settings to see what happens. Need to remember -0.12mm, in case I really need an offset. I’d reckon I don’t.

Or is it USB/IP?

Well, some instructions here. Don’t follow their instructions for installing.

You need to first install the usbip kmods from the GL.iNet repo. You can login to the AP/router, and click plugins, and search for usbip, and install everything.

Then download the usbip packages from here. Took a while to find the right packages.

You need the following:
usbip-client_2.0-13_arm_cortex-a7.ipk
usbip-server_2.0-13_arm_cortex-a7.ipk
usbip_2.0-13_arm_cortex-a7.ipk

Use wget, in the /tmp folder, then run “opkg install ./usbip*.ipk”.

Don’t ask me why you need the client, if using the server part only.

Then you can follow the rest of their instructions, and enjoy Spektrum without the RTL-SDR being plugged directly into computer. Works with GQRX too.

cat /etc/systemd/system/usbip.service 
[Unit]
Description=USB-IP attach
After=network-online.target usbipd.service
Wants=network-online.target

[Service]
Type=simple
ExecStart=/bin/sh -c "/usr/sbin/usbip attach -r xxx -b 1-1"
RemainAfterExit=yes
ExecStop=/bin/sh -c "/usr/sbin/usbip detach -p 0"
Restart=on-failure
 
[Install]
WantedBy=multi-user.target

There’s a service if you need one for the client.

“usbip-host 1-1: endpoint 0 is stalled”

Don’t ask me why that’s in dmesg on AP/router. It’s working fine.

And why the fuck did the antenna move itself? Some powerful fan in here I guess.

Nice, don’t have to use rtl_tcp anymore. I can keep this running, so no need for SSH, unless something isn’t working.

Just install rtl-sdr, and then run rtl_tcp -a xxx using SSH. After running that command, will tell you what to use to connect.

Is it safe leaving it plugged in? Just not leaving that command running of course.

Phone probably can’t use it, the firewall should be blocking all WiFi clients from connecting to the AP, the firewall on AP.

But assuming the firewall on my main router, let’s my Mac mini connect, it can use it. But there doesn’t appear to be any SDR apps that are macOS only, you can get GQRX, but I have that in Linux, my primary program I use.

You don’t want WiFi connecting, because if somebody gets on your WiFi, they can mess with it. Like tune in to stuff they shouldn’t.

I got a cheap antenna for shortwave or something coming, probably won’t get the space station, but maybe it’ll have more of a chance. It can clip onto the antenna I have. I moved the antenna to on top of the Ethernet switch, it has a magnet, so can attach to something metal, like Ethernet switch. The AP must be plastic, probably don’t want on top of that anyways, the AP has antennas. Not that it’s very far from those antennas where it is.

If I had a robot body, I could put it on my shiny metal ass.

Guess it doesn’t need much CPU power.

Guess you can leave it plugged in, nothing happened when I wasn’t home. rtl_tcp wasn’t running though. It can get warm, when you are using it.

Sleeping is a trance state, but good luck controlling anything, if you completely fall a sleep. With enough practice, you can probably sort of fall a sleep, to put yourself in a trance. Just add the breathing once you are in a trance, and you can experience many things.

I saw space, many stars, not sure that was a dream or mediating. But I can see how remote viewing can work now. In the right trance, everything can be vivid, like vivid dreams.

But I don’t recommend remote viewing, you can get murdered, if you see a secret base, and tell people about it. Now remote viewing somewhere else, like a different dimension, perhaps that won’t get you murdered, just everybody will say you are insane, luckily I already am.

Just like when the first people said the Earth was round and not flat. Now everybody that believes in dimensions, are the crazy ones. You might as well be crazy for believing in God too.

I think if you get scared, all you have to do, is leave the trance. In the case of sleeping, wake up.

Don’t try that at night when tired though, you’ll just do into a deep sleep and not mediate most likely. Now if you should be out of bed, you can try it then, but you might oversleep for longer then intended.

I said “I love you Chairman Meow” before I fell a sleep. And then overslept. I don’t cry much about anything while awake anymore.

Not grieving isn’t exactly good, so you may need to trigger the crying.

He used to sit in my lap and purr while I pet him. As far as he was concerned, my lap was his lap. I got Lilly to go in my lap once, and he got mad, he was twitching his tail. That’s when Lilly was afraid of men, I helped solve that problem, my grandpa finished solving the problem, by giving her lots of treats.

She’s fine with males now, and robots like me. She would react to the male that was cruel to her, I think her hair stood up once when she saw him or something. She could potentially bite that person, but they would completely deserve it. She doesn’t have much if any teeth though.

Now she probably thinks I’m a male or man, but so does 99% of everybody. At least I know I’m a robot. I’m the 1%. Only God can tell me I’m not a robot, I probably won’t listen to or believe anybody else.

I might ask an ET, why a robot like me was born a human though.

Or at least not the ones on that one episode show on Netflix.

Dogs love too, so humans aren’t the only ones capable of that. Almost every animal is made from love, just like humans. I suppose if the bad being makes life, they won’t be made from love.

Some dogs get depressed after an older dog dies, and then stops eating.

Most ETs are made from love too.

So finding an earlier possible ancestor to humans, that did things we do, isn’t surprising. Their brain size is irrelevant to me.

Or was that guy trying to say animals like dogs are humans too?

You contemplate the after life because of love. Most who love don’t want death to be the end. And some don’t want to cease to exist when their body dies as well.

But if God doesn’t exist, and we are random, there shouldn’t be love, because love isn’t random.

Evolution most likely didn’t happen naturally, like they probably think too. Ancient Aliens calls them Aliens who made and evolved us. But they might as well be Gods. Just like God. Gods to humans, perhaps not more evolved species. There’s probably another God, that is God to everybody though. Either way, you don’t cease to exist after dying, you might think you’ve never existed before, when you reincarnate though. Which is part of human’s problems. If everybody remembered waking up as somebody else, then there’d be no question about what happens when you die.

But the question is, why do some people remember that and a lot don’t? Does that mean what happens can be different for everybody? Perhaps if you damage yourself too much, you get to forget everything.

Still a little quiet, at least for me. I even turned down the gain on other microphone, and it might still have been louder.

You can increase the volume in post, or increase gain on phone.

Here is a stereo version of the Sitting On The Crapper Song. I should clone that though. I used Denoiser Classic in GarageBand to remove the fan noises.

The adapter came today.

Depending on your volume, you might still be able to hear some fan noise. Guess I only got rid of some of it.

Something wasn’t and hasn’t been right for a while. Checked the btrfs partition, tried repairing, thought I messed it up more. Maybe I didn’t, who knows.

So restored a backup, more then once, because restoring btrfs doesn’t work. Not unless it’s tailored made for btrfs. Trying to restore UrBackup is too much work, it may require a VPN, and many permissions. And you need to make the subvolumes right. Well, you can create the @ subvolume, the same way you create any.

But after it was working, I was going to reboot to fix the subvolumes. But it wouldn’t reboot, without taking a long ass time. So I clicked the button, formatted to ext4, and called it good.

No stuttering listening to radio yet.

Games might run better now too. All because btrfs sucks ass. I shouldn’t use it for the UrBackup server, but changing it, is too much work, and will lose backups.

Didn’t try any games, probably won’t. But computer not lagging, could be a good indication everything will run better.

And Timeshift will slow your reboot down big time. The older backup I used, must have been before the RTL-SDR came, so I had to do some stuff to get it working.

I think Timeshift is broken, that is it’s filling up my drive, no free space. Like it isn’t actually deleting stuff.

If deleting this backup, doesn’t make any free space available, I’m deleting the entire Timeshift folder. I used a restic backup, Timeshift is just another backup. Perhaps it needs to start over.

Might take ages to delete Timeshift’s folder. It says there’s free space, after deleting a backup, but Dolphin disagrees. And so does df.

As soon as I pull the filament out that broke off when I pulled it out. Noticed while trying to put filament back in. I assume the nozzle is tight enough, and holding the heat block with pliers doesn’t work very well. Maybe if you have two right hands.

Guess my shitty soldering worked again somehow. Even without the silicone glove on the nozzle, the temperature was doing better then before. It actually got too hot. But doesn’t fluctuate as much.

So that hotend I bought was junk basically. I found a screw in Thermistor on Amazon. No shitty thin wire to break. I’ll buy it next month, and a pack of regular ones on Amazon. So if I need to replace it again, I won’t have to wait. I think you screw it in where the hole is for the screw. Not sure the other hole has threads. And it would need to be really small.

The ASIN is B08YNX79H8.

I have to remove printer from house to fix the filament. Either that, or turn it around. The extruder thing might need to be somewhat taken apart to fix it. Or I suppose take the hose off the hotend thing, and try pushing the filament out. Use something small to push on it. Or remove hose from both ends, and hope gravity gets it out.

Hopefully I don’t destroy the hose again though.

You can’t really use a caliper to measure distance from bed to nozzle, at least not mine, too big. And my caliper doesn’t start at the end of the entire caliper. So if you increase the Z, you still won’t get the right measurement.

You might be able to measure the paper though. And it might be the first layer thickness I need to change.

According to caliper, the paper is 0.07mm or 0.08mm.

And getting the filament out was easy, didn’t even have to remove from it’s house. Just remove the hose, not from the hotend part, the other part. Luckily, I remembered you just push down and you can remove the hose. After you take the blue thing off.

Maybe later, I’ll try to print, after putting filament in it. All I did was remove the small amount of filament in it. Not much broke off apparently.

Too late to mess with printer now.

To use a caliper, you still need a piece of paper. Measure paper, make the offset match paper, then subtract 0.2mm from whatever the paper’s measurement is, then adjust offset based on that. Some guide may say it’s a miss conception or something to use a caliper. But I ain’t printing a million times to find the right offset, too much work.

First thing to do, is print without an offset and see what happens.

They say you may need a piece of paper though, might as well measure paper with caliper. Assuming I remember right, and they say you don’t need a caliper. But they say you need a ruler, don’t have one. But measure more then once, because the caliper can pinch the paper, and make it appear smaller.

Can you measure boobs with a caliper? Probably not mine, they might be shrinking.

I had to replace the wire for the heater and heater. It has some insulation crap on wire. So couldn’t figure out how to strip that part so I could solder the wire.

Soldered the thermistor though, before I realized I had to replace the other wire. It isn’t in the same wire sleeve, the heater. Too hard to get it through with all the other cables, and I wasn’t going to disconnect it to try putting in the other way. I had enough issues getting the cables plugged in, I used tweezers, but had to use my left hand with the screwdriver. Not left handed, so wasn’t very easy.

Oh and braces will fuck Linux up. Computer did who knows what, so I clicked the reset button. Probably clicked the keys to sleep or some bullshit I don’t use.

Now to lookup how to disable sleep and hibernate completely. Or just disable the hotkeys.

The brace hits keys, so if you are typing, it may hit a hotkey, without you intending on doing so.

The printer isn’t completely back together. Have to put hose back in the hole, and then heat it up, and see if nozzle is tight enough. Perhaps tomorrow I’ll do that.

Well the default hotkey for sleep and hibernate is disabled, it doesn’t bother saying what the default is though. Searching DuckDuckGo is a waste of time. I should just ditch KDE, if they can’t tell me what the default is.

For disabling suspending and hibernate, see this. Hopefully that solves KDE’s stupidity. I should be allowed to wear a brace, and accidentally hit keys, without fucking computer completely up.

Nice no sleep or hibernate options in KDE now.

Not sure I soldered right though. Couldn’t tell if the solder was melting or not. Didn’t exactly look like it. But at least one, looked like I heated it too long, so perhaps it did. And heatguns are supposed to be easy. Maybe if you have more light. I can’t hold a flash light at the same time.

Also, not sure I put both ends of wire in right either. Probably not, now that I think about it. If I recall, what I did the first time, was put one end all the way through anus connector, and then try to get the wires to become one. By twisting or something. This time, I just put both wires in both ends as far as they would go. Probably not the greatest way to do it. I think that thing is for the temperature, so if no temperature reading, I get to resolder. Shouldn’t have cut that cable as short as I did. I have the rest of the cable, but soldering more back on, may be hard.

I can just order another one, and wait another week.

Don’t need an upconverter for AM, good news, cause I don’t want to spend $70 for one, assuming that’s what it is.

Instructions to tune into AM here. Basically you use “rtl=0,direct_samp=2” in GQRX.

But you can’t be in that mode and the regular mode at the same time. So you might need two RTL-SDRs to do both at the same time. Well, you can open GQRX two times, so might work.

Now if the AM station is higher, you don’t need to do that.

If you look here, some are 29 MHz, which you can’t tune in that mode.

I just used my telescopic antenna, it seems to work great.

I found a script on the internet, for playing your microphone out of your speakers or headphones. But then I found instructions for making a virtual sound card. Well, the instructions don’t completely work for Pipewire.

Adding “media.class=Audio/Sink” did the trick though.

#!/usr/bin/env bash

# Directs audio input (e.g. mic) to audio output (e.g. speakers),
# then sleeps forever. Stops audio redirection when it is killed.
# So, for example, plug your phone into the PC's mic, run 'listen',
# and listen to phone audio through your computer's speakers.
#
# Requires:
# sudo apt-get install pactl

set -e

null_sink=$(pactl load-module module-null-sink media.class=Audio/Sink sink_name=Virtual1 sink_properties=device.description=Virtual-Sound-Card)
module=$(pactl load-module module-loopback sink=Virtual1)
module2=$(pactl load-module module-loopback sink=Virtual1)

function cleanup {
  pactl unload-module $null_sink
  pactl unload-module $module
  pactl unload-module $module2
}

trap cleanup EXIT

sleep infinity

You can get rid of the comment out playing the microphone in the audio output. Since you won’t actually hear it with the above script.

After you run the script, go into PulseAudio Volume Control, and click Recording, and show All Streams. For the first loopback, I selected my headphones, and the second one the monitor of the headphones.

I think recording worked with sox, but you can use Audio Recorder too.

And I think to use Audacity, you have to click Record, then go into PulseAudio Volume Control, and click recording and change what it’s recording from. Just select the monitor of the virtual sound card.

Nice somebody already made a program or script to do one thing I want to do.

I need an upconverter though, for AM.

And since I get FM radio here, I should get lots of voices, nice, I can talk to the radio. The reason to use AM perhaps.

There’s an upconverter for $20. Won’t buy till next month though. If you want no case, $15. Might not be an upconverter.

You might need to spend $55. Or get a different SDR that does AM. And you want the one with passthrough function. Only $70, what a bargain.

Perhaps no AM is fine.

And perhaps this post should be on my other site, oh well.

And it works, if you are wondering. You can find radio to listen to with it. You might want to change the sleep setting, I think it has.

You can use it to auto scan too.

You have to use –sleep= using –s doesn’t work. Probably because there’s a -s option too. I need to rewrite it in Python, and let you skip frequencies, known radio stations that is. Or learn Perl, and add a skip list. Or set the range less, so it doesn’t even scan those. That didn’t work. Need a range without any radio.

Link

Apparently you can easily break the law with SDR, but reminded me about the wiretapping laws.

But I think they should change it to allow wiretapping if it isn’t encrypted. The NSA collects lots of data. That’s legal. So why isn’t using SDR legal?

Guess you can only listen to FM radio signals. I assume that’s legal, they make radios that are meant for listening to that.

I might be able to tune into the space station at 9:55 PM. I assume tuning into that is legal as well. Only seven minutes though.

Gqrx isn’t the best program. SDR++ is better in someways, I think SigDigger is based on Gqrx, but doesn’t play audio by default, so you can see just the signal.

Just set SDR++ to 145.8 MHz for later. And added a bookmark.

But SDR++ is a dick, it takes over the audio interface.

And try spektrum for a spectrum analyzer if you have the rtl-sdr.

Now perhaps I can see if there’s anything in 1.6 GHz, without breaking the law, just don’t listen. Use spektrum instead. Some of the text is small, and can’t seem to change starting frequency. You have to click the Set Range button, that I can barely read.

According to that, no 1.6 GHz signal really. What killed my audio? Restarted audio crap, works again.

And I heard talking on 2m Ham Band, near 145.8 MHz, not sure that was the space station though. Didn’t listen long enough to try and figure it out. Didn’t really sound like it. Maybe they were asking a question to them, and I couldn’t hear the other person. I think you can ask the space station people questions. So possibly picked up somebody asking something, but not the space station itself, bummer.

I broke the thermistor while trying to get it put back together. Should have left it how it was, when it was screwed down, but I wanted it to look perfect. Too small to try and fix it.

I should have another one coming soon. Should have ordered two though, since they are so fucking easy to break.

If I solder the new cable, I’ll have to cut the plastic thing around part of the heater and thermistor cable. Don’t have any plastic like that. I have zip ties, but don’t ask me what the max temperature it can handle is. The cartridge thermistors are better. I’d need a new heat block for that though.

I did level the bed again manually, but I think it was fine. You can’t get the middle and both sides exactly the same. One side can be exactly, or super close. So I guess one side is close enough, I need a bed that isn’t lopsided.

I think the Tenergy 9v rechargeable batteries are 8.4v, but they still work with it. Tenergy Centura 9V NIMH Rechargeable Batteries are the batteries.

Only turned it on, the microphone replacement should come today, I’ll test it more then.

Microphone came, didn’t actually test it. Don’t think it tells you if it detects audio, like my audio interface does. So you need to plug it into something and actually test it. Maybe later. Got to watch TV.

Box doesn’t look as suspicious, I guess they don’t seal the box. I’ll probably check the serial number later, just to make sure. Is it heavier? Perhaps, hard to tell, or more like I don’t recall. Should have weighed it, then I could weigh this one.

Update
Well couldn’t get it working right with my new microphone, plugged into the line in on audio interface. But it works with the other microphone, with the preamp plugged into line in. Maybe because it uses phantom power, the adapter. Who knows, at least it works.

You have to increase the gain on the phone though, if you want it louder. I should have gotten another Neewer microphone and phantom power adapter, since it works better with the preamp.

But I’m too lazy to send it back again. Now if you plug it into the phone directly, it might work, with the 3.5mm adapter.

So maybe the audio interface is trying really hard to not let me use another microphone without paying almost $200.

Here are some burps.

Here is an image of video rig, without iPhone. I’m guessing one of the XLR adapters or both will block the cameras though. That’ll be fun to address.

BOYA microphone serial number says it’s legit, both numbers I checked, but the model is wrong for one number. No idea who’s at fault, or if it means it’s not real. Their database may be broken.

Perhaps if you buy a Boya microphone, don’t bother checking if it’s real, their system sucks.

Update
The BOYA microphone works with preamp, if I use my other XLR adapter, so XLR to 3.5mm directly, instead of two adapters, works better. Perhaps too much of the signal is being lost with two adapters.

So I should buy another Movo FXLR-PRO adapter. But probably not till next month. You don’t need phantom power with a powered microphone, so just leave that off. Adapter works without phantom power too.

You might be able to get a cheaper adapter with no phantom power, but nice to have the powered adapter, in case I want a non powered microphone.

I wonder how much all this cost though. Too much work looking for XLR microphones.

I added another bungee cord to video rig for the preamp. Was going to add two more, but the other one I got out of the container, is broken or something, too lazy to look to see if stuff fell off the bungee cord. And try to put it back on.

At least it works with computer using the other adapter.

Ordered the adapter anyways. It’s nicer then two adapters. So if you are having trouble converting 3.5mm to XLR, use a 3.5mm to XLR adapter, instead of XLR to the bigger TRS, and then the bigger TRS to 3.5mm.

Listening to Earthfiles Podcast now though.

Nothing in the 1600 MHz frequency really. But no idea how you could listen to any of that, so I suppose some little signals, but can’t hear anything. Not bugged yet.

Overpaying for antennas was worth it, look how tall it is. Well one of them, didn’t try the others yet. I like the tall one. In fact, I might buy more, to make a collection of antennas. Somebody may ask “What are all those antennas for?”.

If you want a bundle for $10 or so more, I think, you can get antennas, instead of $20 or so more. Not sure it comes with one as tall though, so well worth the $20 or so.

Should see if the heat breaks will screw on to the heater block. But I’m lazy. Won’t completely fix it tonight, if I do anything, need to redo leveling too. Apparently you want corners to match middle as much as possible, didn’t put level in the middle I don’t think. Screws in or on, but not sure it’s right. That’s all I’m doing tonight. Might have to heat it up, after getting it on, so it doesn’t leak, then you tighten the nozzle some more if it will. But maybe level before heating it up, so I don’t get burned.

You can use Gqrx to entertain yourself with it.

You have to blacklist some modules, if you want to use it for Gqrx.

And you have to add yourself to the rtlsdr group, at least in openSUSE, if you installed rtl-sdr-udev.

cat /etc/modprobe.d/blacklist-rtl.conf 
blacklist dvb_usb_rtl28xxu
blacklist rtl2832
blacklist rtl2830

Well, I finally got a radio. Not a regular one though. I have a regular but for emergencies radio.

Update
Not AM radio, more like FM radio. Based on the frequency, but the AM thing can sometimes listen to it. Doesn’t sound great though, sounds great if you use WFM Stereo. Might not even be able to listen to AM radio.

Wrong charger, can’t refresh 9v batteries, should have read more before ordering it. Could have got a cheaper charger for 9v batteries, that only charges.

Not sending it back though, too much work. And might be nice for C batteries anyways. And Tenergy batteries, have plenty.

Photo of charger

It is charging, the picture just got snapped when it showed no bars, apparently the batteries arrived dead days ago.

I wouldn’t use it for some batteries, it charges too fast. And I don’t think you can change it.

It might take ten hours to charge the 9v batteries though.

Thought that was a cheapo brand. But apparently the Beyond Skinwalker Ranch folks trust that brand.

So I think my next power station will be a Jackery. If I knew that before now, I would have got one the first time. The lower watt ones aren’t that expensive.

Then again, I don’t put all trust in one brand.

The more the better, in case global warming causes lots of power outages. But I might get burned up before I need it. Might as well spend money before the money gets burned up though.

But will my solar charger work with it? I probably need another one, so both can be charged at the same time. But if nobody else has power, I probably won’t go outside to solar charge anything. You don’t want somebody robbing you. So if I can’t charge from the window, eventually no more power.

And you might be able to charge that one faster, you can charge with USB and AC at the same time.

My solar panel is only 60W, might work, slowly. But I think you can use a 100W one with it.

Does Tenergy make a 100W foldable one?

Doesn’t look like it. Can I use two of them then? Maybe not, you might need a charge controller or something.

Hmm, maybe save money until December, and buy my mom one and a solar panel, probably solar panel made for it. But get the 500W or so one for her. In my case, I could get the lower watt one, because I have on already. But I think I’d get 500W or more for myself too. If it can run something to cook food, then I can cook food when the power’s out.

It came, but some shows are recording over the internet soon. I can set it up, but not put it where I want it. Not until the TV shows are done recording.

I’ll put the old one in my bedroom, can use it for the fan. It hasn’t locked up yet, since changing the channel on WiFi AP.

You don’t need a shitty account, or their shitty app to add it to Home. Scan the QR code, the app told me how to do it. I didn’t want to make an account.

Something used a randomized MAC address to connect, probably the surge protector. You need to connect to 2.4 GHz WiFi to get it connected, nobody likes 5 GHz I guess.

Says not responding, just added firewall rule, to let Apple TV connect to it. Guess that didn’t make it happy yet. Or is it trying to use IPv6? Well, good job Apple, for being a dick. Guess I should turn IPv6 off on WiFi then.

Probably have to allow it internet, or add a rule to allow it on WiFi firewall. If I allow it internet, all I have to do, is add the IP to the list. Might need to update it’s firmware anyways, hopefully it can do so without their shitty app.

I’d reckon, it ain’t even trying to connect to it over IPv4, Apple is a fucking dick, defaulting to IPv6 on your local network.

You have to use their app to update firmware, but you don’t have to sign in.

Good luck disabling IPv6 on the AP itself. At this point, it would be easier to add it to Homebridge. Might have to reset AP though. Have a backup, but might be outdated.

I have to SSH to the router to disable on there, pain in the asshole. Not to mention, the 5 GHz won’t get any IPv6 either in that case. I was going to disable it for everything on AP, to see if it would work, then eventually make a new LAN with just the other radio. It changed the fucking IP address on the AP again, it has too many MAC addresses. And rebooting it, changed the MAC address back, nice. Now to reboot it yet again.

I might just have to re add the surge protector to Home though.

And Orange Pi Zero lost it’s connection. Had to restart the radio.

Easy to break the WiFi on this AP. Rebooted AP, but it’s possible the surge protector is kicking the Orange Pi Zero 2 off somehow. It isn’t plugged in right now, the surge protector. Going to watch TV instead.

And the Orange Pi Zero 2 might only stay connected if “Enable key reinstallation (KRACK) countermeasures” is enabled. Yet my phone wouldn’t reconnect with that enabled, somebody said to disable it.

The randomized MAC address was my Apple Watch. Surge protector works now, I did two things, put it in living room, but also disabled QoS on the AP for the 2.4 GHz, it was limited to like 300 KB/s down or something.

And that setting isn’t why the Orange Pi Zero 2 keeps disconnecting, it’s disconnected again. Guess it’s a bad channel. Maybe more power is needed for 5 GHz? As soon as internet came back, surge protector not responding. Probably IPv6 then.

Oddly I can ping the Orange Pi Zero 2 IP from the router, but it isn’t connected to VPN.

Not sure the problem is IPv6, as if I allow communication, it doesn’t work still. So with an internet connection, and it should be allowed internet access, it doesn’t work. Maybe blocking it from DNS will fix it? Nope.

So it only works if the internet is off?

Maybe it doesn’t like being on it’s own VLAN, so maybe Apple TV isn’t connecting by IP. No worries, going to use Homebridge. Rebooting phone, didn’t try that yet. Don’t know the UUID, so can’t use that plugin.

It’s using MDNS. And it might finally work, had to open the MDNS port to router, for the reflector thing. But that will show the IP of many things on wired network. Oh well. Can’t connect to most anyways.

Is internet back online yet? Was turning on and off the wrong outlet. And it’s back online.

Fucking MDNS crap. That’s why Homebridge is better. It connects directly to IP. Hmm, but does the device? There’s no firewall rule allowing the device to connect to anything though, it’s now blocked from the internet.

Update
If you block IPv6 across VLANs, don’t leave the MDNS reflector on. If you do, some stuff won’t work anymore. Like my cameras. If I connect to my VPN, it might. But the surge protector still works after disabling the MDNS port.

If you can disable IPv6 on your iPhone, that might work too. Looks like you can’t, bummer.

Probably once the surge protector reconnects to WiFi, it won’t work anymore. Now to disconnect it from WiFi and see what happens.

I need MDNS that doesn’t show the IPv6 address.

And just as expected, it’s not responding again.

Is it repeater or reflector? It’s using the repeater.

You might have to disable IPv6 on both networks, not just the WiFi VLAN.

To fix it, use dns-sd. I found instructions here, and you don’t need to be on WiFi to run it. It’s relaying just the new surge protector.

iNet Network Scanner can show info on it too, like the port.

IPv6 re enabled on WiFi, and everything still works, nice. Now I know how to connect to my iPhone without using WiFi. If I want to back it up or sync it. The phone will be using WiFi, just not my Mac mini.

I think you can use avahi-publish in Linux. And that only does local stuff I think. You need a proxy.

So can’t get iPhone working, I think the Mac mini has something that needs to be on the other network. Guess I’d have to connect to WiFi, or use a USB cable.

You could use something to else to make a proxy, or forward the port. But that’s a pain in the ass. And you have to know if it uses TCP or UDP.