Apparently you don't need Packman for openSUSE anymore

If you install the Flatpak VLC, you get codecs installed apparently. But are they system wide like somebody asked? Flatpak isn’t good for security? It sounds more like Linux isn’t, so many library versions. No wonder some people hate Linux.

The trick is not doing much on your computer.

I have the Flatpak Firefox. The browser I switched to, doesn’t have an official Flatpak. And I think I like Apparmor better anyways.

And I can’t reboot if any updates need me to. Linux kernel is compiling, to see if it’ll boot on Orange Pi Zero 2, the device tree might not be enough. Or maybe it’ll boot, but nothing will work, no WiFi, USB, Ethernet, HDMI if it has it.

You might as well reboot, it’s easier then restarting processes, even if only two processes.

Ender 3 V2 Neo not recommended or maybe it is

Unless you know how to make parts, or modify it to work. Good luck buying official parts from them, just go to their official store and search.

Look at some bad reviews for stuff sold from some third parties, somebody got a used product.

There’s a hotend for around $60, but their quality control is shit, so not worth that much. They have heat blocks that may or may not work, apparently missing screw holes where you need em. So I guess it just hangs off. It’s probably more secure with the screws. You can drill holes in it, but you might as well find somebody that can make the block in that case.

If I had a 3D printer that can print metal, I’d be good to go.

I emailed them asking if I can buy the hotend or heater block. If Jeff can’t get the nozzle out, then I’ll have to wait for them to email me. Also, maybe he can tell if it’s broken or not. The inside.

If they don’t respond to my email, I will contact them on Amazon. And if that fails, I’ll see if I can return without the box. Not providing support after sales, is a good reason to send it back. How the fuck are you supposed to get replacement parts? I don’t feel like spending $20+ for the entire hotend, and possibly getting junk.

I found one block, but somebody said the nozzle fell out while printing. They said the hole is too big or something. So buy a bigger nozzle? Well, the picture shows the silicone thing on the bed too.

And look on Reddit, they say what upgrades you can use, and some even have tried third party stuff on Amazon. Sounds like I need a new bed, and possibly firmware. It’ll be a while, got to fix it, then got to print one thing successfully. Will it work without silicone thing? From a third party, you can get a bunch of nozzles, and silicone things. But I want the nozzles that are actually better, according to somebody on Reddit.

If you have weak and shaky hands, I also don’t recommend it. I hurt my fingers putting new shoe laces on my shoes, the elastic ones, cheap from Walmart, but they had to ship them. You will buy lots of shoe laces, if you use regular ones, unless you can get knots out, I use scissors. I saved the old laces though, in case I need them. But they are so cheap, I think I’ll buy four pairs of em. I bought one extra one to give my mom, she said she wanted some. Put em on boots too, or not they are winter boots. Not sure they will be tight enough.

Was looking at Reddit on my phone, I found it somehow on DuckDuckGo, didn’t even know it was on Reddit.

So maybe it isn’t the worst one to buy. Need to look at it on computer though. I use my Linux PC mostly, so no getting to stuff in Safari, and Safari sucks on the Mac anyways. The brand/seller they’ve had luck with is ENOMAKER. Seeing if they have a block. Doesn’t look like it, at least for my printer.

And the thing I need to reconnect is the belt, for the nozzle thingy. They have a hotend for almost $30, for my printer. Now to look at reviews. It isn’t easy, if you have to open the bottom of printer. How the fuck are you supposed to do that? Turn it upside down? Good luck not breaking anything. And I ain’t removing the bed.

Why can’t I use existing/working cables? Or did I kill the cables? I’ll replace the tube though, just for fun. Somebody said it appears to be the same, other review says different tube. If that’s the case, I can use existing cables. If it doesn’t work, then replace cables. I’ll find out tomorrow if I need to buy it yet. I need silicone things though.

Thank you people on Reddit, for trying a non official seller on Amazon.

I’d rather wait to buy all the stuff at once though, that might be a while, depends what the republicans do. Good idea, go panhandle, say I need money for 3D printing dildos. Anti stringing might be nice, for the nozzles. And why shouldn’t I use a metal tool on the outside of that nozzle? It comes with six, if I remove it, I’m replacing it most likely.

And can you buy a small metal block and thread it and use it as a heater block? And which metal is best? If that works, I should sell em, for other people that break their nozzle off in it. Not sure he wants to make that many though. I can’t do it, my hands/fingers suck.

They don’t sell silicone socks for my printer, bummer. I have to try a different seller. How can silicone socks be bad? If they don’t fit, or melt.

Oh and good luck compiling the latest 6.2 kernel from Ubuntu using Ubuntu 22.04 or is it 20.04? I tried using Distrobox, then Podman directly, well didn’t remake it. Just so env vars wouldn’t be the same as openSUSE. The instructions Ubuntu provide don’t work, and one script doesn’t exist. I just want to see if it boots, and if WiFi works. Don’t care about HDMI, does it even have that? Ok, I’ll buy the socks from the seller I bought my filament from, the filament appears to be fine, don’t need it yet, haven’t used all the stuff printer came with yet.

Good idea, compile kernel using Lima again. Why not? Yeah it takes forever, but who cares, and the CPU might get hot, but who cares. Nukes will fall from the sky in the next world war. So computer might get melted. But not me, I can’t be melted. According to who? Uranus. I really want to know what happens if you scratch that nozzle with metal. It’s Teflon.

Not ordering anything until tomorrow. Might not have to replace hotend yet. Then I can just get silicone socks, and nozzles. The bed is waiting, it’s around $20. And that’s the cheaper one somebody said they use.

Hmm, you don’t have to use Ubuntu kernel source, if you use Lima. The headers I made are vanilla. Does Ubuntu have any patches I need? I’m going to say no. Hmm, that isn’t the same Ubuntu version. You need to use nerdctl, but it doesn’t work. Well, I might have found the command, but I guess you have to run some other command every time first, off to the Lima GitHub.

And I still need to look at the Ender 3 V2 Neo on Reddit.

ENOMAKER Upgrade Ender 3 V2 Neo Extruder Hotend Kit All Metal Hot End Assembly Replacement with Capricorn Tube for Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo/Ender 3 Max Neo/Ender 3 Neo 3D Printer B0BRQ81D7Q

That’s what I’ll buy if he can’t fix it. Sorry, I can’t link to Amazon, they told me not to.

ENOMAKER Ender 3 PEI Spring Steel Magnetic Plate Double Side Smooth and Textured Flex Build Surface for Ender 3/Pro/V2/S1/Neo, Ender 5/Pro, CR-20/Pro, 235x235mm B0BDL55CLY
ENOMAKER Upgrade PTFE Coated Nozzle 0.4mm MK8 Non Stick Anti Stringing Extruder Tips for Creality Ender 3 Pro V2 CR-10/S4/S5 3D Printer Accessories(Pack of 6)B0BJVJ11SZ
Official Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo Silicone Sock, 4PCS 3D Printer Hotend Heater Block Cover Silicone Cover for Ender-3 Max Neo, CR-6 SE, CR-10 Smart, CR-200B 3D Printer Hotend Extruder (Creality CL Store) B0B8NL9CH8

Can I post the ASINs? Sure why not.

A 3D printer that can’t print the way it comes, nice. And if you break it, you can’t buy parts from the manufacture.

I think DIY printers are the best, you can get replacement parts.


lima sudo systemctl start containerd
lima sudo nerdctl run --privileged --rm tonistiigi/binfmt:[email protected]:66e11bea77a5ea9d6f0fe79b57cd2b189b5d15b93a2bdb925be22949232e4e55 --install all

Put that in a sh file in your home folder, so you don’t forget what to run. Typing history doesn’t find it. Probably was replaced with new history.

Maybe put nerdctl.lima run -it -v /tmp/lima:/lima –platform=arm64 arm64v8/ubuntu:22.04 /bin/bash in it too. Hmm, how many Ubuntus do I have? Only five.


nerdctl.lima start xxx
nerdctl.lima exec -it xxx /bin/bash

That’ll do it, deleted all the extra ones. The name of my container probably won’t do you any good, I think after ubuntu-, it’s random.

Apparently it can print some kinds of TPU without upgrading it, so I never need to upgrade it. Nothing like printing flexible dildos. If I had a wife, I’d give her one for every Christmas. I’d ask her “What do you think I got you for Christmas?”, “A dildo?”, “How’d you know?”.

Ender 3 V2 Neo Upgrade Guide, surprised DuckDuckGo found that, it finds almost nothing. I only searched for “reddit ender 3 v2 neo” and that’s the first link.

Not giving a link to the firmware, it looks complicated. Better off using Klipper. Do you need to compile Klipper? Not even sure Visual code whatever is for Linux, maybe. Doesn’t say the Neo works either. On the GitHub.

They have a requirement page, but I forgot the board version, the firmware file might have had it.

Does the auto leveling work though? Cause adjusting Z offset, can damage the nozzle, and possibly hotend. Somebody said it’s easier with the above bed. The main reason to get it.

Not having to buy truck loads of glue sticks, would be a nice feature too.

They mention the Neo on a different page for that “professional” firmware.

Hmm, I can make my bed bigger? So I can get a metal 3D printer, print new frame, and use that firmware to print bigger? Nice. I need it taller, as tall as a house, so I can print a house. Can resign 3D printers do metal? Not for me, you need gloves and crap, it’s toxic. A plastic house.

Why not leave the filament on the floor of the tent? Cause it fell off, and then I left it there, now it’s in the pocket on the side of tent on the outside, since I removed it. I’ll put it back in hole, after it works again, so depends how much money I have. And how the fuck do you attach belt?

Good advice, too bad I didn’t read it before driving nozzle into bed, now I need a new bed. And a new nozzle, possibly hotend as well. It came with another nozzle.

Hmm, should just order the hotend, he’s going out of town, and I want one of those new nozzles on it, but might break something off in it again if we fix it.

3D printers are easy to break

You can see the photos here. You should be able to guess what’s wrong. I don’t have the required tool(s) to get something stuck out of it, not that I’d know how anyways. Part of a screwdriver bit is stuck somewhere as well. Tried getting anything out with another one, that bent, and then I gave up.

No point in emailing the manufacture, it’s user stupidity, so good luck.

Removing from tent wouldn’t help that much. I guess you can lay on the floor, to see what you are doing. That doesn’t sound like a good solution. If it went up higher, perhaps you could see what you are doing, or if it was upside down.

I ended up removing some of the silicone crap around the nozzle, no way to get it off with that there. I was right, the resistant was the wrong way, no resistant the other way.

I’ll probably just leave it on table broken. Not sure I want to pay for a new thing I don’t even know what it’s called, and I doubt I can put it on anyways.

I only wasted $300 or so. There’s a little hole in the tent, I never noticed before.

I also wonder if the nozzle is even the problem. Good luck getting that hose off, I was going to try sticking needle in from that way. Oh yeah, impossible hose to remove, no way I could replace that part, without getting that hose off.

I never even successfully printed anything. And all the things I was going to print.

I’m also not bringing it anywhere for somebody to look at. I ain’t hauling it anywhere. It can live broken on table. It would probably get more damaged doing that anyways.

I broke it with a socket wrench. Glad I didn’t buy any tools to attempt to remove the nozzle. Heating it to 250C doesn’t do much, and you probably have to be strong and fast, if you set it to 0 right after it hits 250C.

Looks like you need a thread extractor. How do you use that? And how do you get broken screwdriver bit out? I don’t want to search the manufacture’s site to try and find a compatible hotend thingy. Or is it a block? No idea.

Screw extractor or thread extractor? Cause the cheap hardware store has no thread extractors, but possibly screw extractors. I used a 6mm socket wrench. If you drill a hole in anything, you’ll break it more. And that might be too big to go in it anyways. Nice, you can use that one with a socket wrench, the best way to break a 3D printer. But it’s $40. Only does inches, don’t know inches or feet, only mm. You can convert 6mm to inches, but that’s too much work. You need fractions to do 6mm. Just searched the page for ¹⁵/₆₄, it found nothing.

And that hardware store has nothing.

Will pliers work? If it’s loose maybe, but probably isn’t, so good luck. And pliers are put away. Hmm, that might get the screwdriver bit out though. Too bad I can’t see what I’m doing.

Does somebody make a safe knockoff Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo block or hotend thing? Whatever it is. You might just need the block, probably cheaper, if you can find it.

How do you remove silicone thing? Cause I should have. May have been able to remove it without breaking it. $10 for nozzles and silicone thing. I need the block though. Well, ten extra nozzles might be nice too. Hotend not that expensive, but that isn’t the Neo.

You have to disassemble the thing, or $60. Might be more fun to break it more though.

If I’m paying $60, I want a better one. Can’t find it on Creality’s site. Guess I’ll see if pliers can get anything out, at least the screwdriver bit. Pliers don’t fit in hole. Going to remove printer from tent, to see if I can see up the hole better.

And Beats Studio Buds are useless, one fell out of my ear while looking up the hotend hole.

Got the block thing with stuck nozzle off. I mean part of a nozzle, stuck in it. And strapped a screw as well. It’s crooked. Probably from the force used to break the nozzle off. Might be a more expensive way to remove nozzle. Even got the hose off, don’t ask me how to reattach the thing that makes it move. Didn’t need to remove that.

Pictures of the block thing on the above link.

You need a wrench to remove hose, probably the same on the other end as well. I should just upgrade my printer, maybe I won’t have to adjust the Z offset. But I think I need a new bed cover thing. The nozzle did some damage on it.

That spider upgrade, doesn’t say Neo. But it can do TPU and wood. Good way to upgrade your printer, break it. I’m gonna need help reattaching rail or whatever it’s called though. Came off, but won’t go back on. Actually, they should install the new hotbed too, so I don’t break it too. Put new magnetic bed cover on, after you get the Z offset right, or if you start having issues, with the damaged part.

May be no upgrades for the Neo, guess I bought the worst one. In that case, can I just buy the block? I don’t need the other crap. Maybe a better tube.

PNY 32GB Elite Class 10 U1 microSDHC Flash Memory Card 3-Pack

Got that today, well it came Tuesday I think. To her house.

I don’t care about brand names. But PNY I’ve heard of, card my 3D printer came with, never heard of. I paid $13.07 after tax.

They are backup cards, in case one of the Pis needs a new card, after the new Samsung card dying, decided I need extra cards.

f3write is writing to the first card. I make sure the cards are real, if f3 fails, that means it doesn’t have as much capacity as the computer thinks, it’s a fake card.

First card tested is good.

And all three cards are fine. Nobody is making fake PNY cards? Must only be SanDick.

Finally got CH340 compiled/installed on Orange Pi Zero 2

The default driver might be fine though, that it already has. As printer still doesn’t work with OctoPrint in Podman. Perhaps it doesn’t work in a container for some reason.

Or I need to update firmware on printer. I tried multiple CH340 drivers.

To compile drivers, download the linux-headers deb package from here.

I compiled the deb packages in Lima on my desktop, took a long ass time. Perhaps there’s a way to only do the headers, no idea.

And the commands I used, are lost, well not completely, but the text file with them is gone. And I’m too lazy to go on Mac mini.

Oh wait, I can get it from my backup server probably. Well, not UrBackup, but from the backup on the Raspberry Pi. Just copied it back, before it gets deleted, except that might be backed up on UrBackup too, just not under the desktop, but the Raspberry Pi backup. Nope.


apt install -y sphinx cpio bc rsync wget build-essential bison flex libncurses-dev libssl-dev libelf-dev kmod
make ARCH=arm64 orange_pi_zero2_defconfig'
make -j12 ARCH=arm64 
make -j12 deb-pkg LOCALVERSION=-sun50iw9 ARCH=arm64 

You can get the config from the Orange Pi Zero 2 in boot. And put it in arch/arm64/configs or something like that. Name it orange_pi_zero2_defconfig or something else.

What would be faster, is not using Lima for the entire compile. Just for the scripts, so copy the scripts folder before you make the deb packages, and hope it doesn’t recompile them for x86_64. Or change permissions on files so it can’t. But it might exit if you do that. In that case, edit the deb archive, and replace scripts with the right ones. What a pain in the ass. All because I can’t compile the scripts for ARM64. No instructions on internet on how to do it, so I stopped looking.

I updated the firmware, if using Linux, format to FAT32 with GParted, and make sure the boot and lba flag are set. You can also probably leave it formatted as the card came. I used the card it came with. Somebody on Internet said to rename the file, so I renamed it from Ender-3 V2 Neo-Marlin2.0.8.3-HW-V4.2.2-SW-V1.1.7-CR-Touch-FILAMENT-20230209.bin to Ender.bin. If it takes longer to boot, then you did it right, when into info, and said the new version.

So I guess their instructions may not work. You might not need to set the alocation unit size in Linux. So don’t bother passing -S 4096 to it. Just use GParted for the easy way. Somebody said that is the standard size.

Maybe the firmware update will fix USB. If not, maybe I need a different cable, tried a different cable, I think the one I use for Kindle, didn’t work. Didn’t try with new firmware yet.

And cat /dev/ttyUSB0 is showing stuff, while auto leveling. So I guess OctoPrint isn’t working, perhaps it doesn’t like Podman.


c--------- 0 nobody nogroup 188, 0 May 11 19:08 ttyUSB0
cat /dev/ttyUSB0
cat: /dev/ttyUSB0: Permission denied

In the Podman container. But on the host:


ls -lh /dev/ttyUSB0
crw-rw---- 1 root dialout 188, 0 May 11 12:59 /dev/ttyUSB0

Maybe I need to restart it again, the container. That’s kind of funny, you may not need to compile a driver, all that for nothing. As I think cat /dev/ttyUSB0 without compiling a newer driver worked as well.

Perhaps using –group-add keep-group with Podman will fix it.\

And it works with OctoPrint in Podman now, it’s –group-add keep-groups, notice the s. I copied the command from the page, that doesn’t have the s. Not sure why they didn’t include the s in the command. Their code html, doesn’t have the s, but they say keep-groups above it. And on Git for possibly Podman, they said keep-groups.

I should test with the included driver, but I’m lazy. I moved it to .bak, so I can move it back, not hard.

Now to see how long it takes to upload to SD, you get power outage resume if it’s on the SD. Not printing anything yet though. Oh right, if I want to slice it, I need the right profile for my printer. Easiest way, is to install the official program on Mac, export it, and then use the official Cura on my Linux desktop. OctoPrint may be able to convert it for me, in that case, I don’t need Cura.

Before compiling or downloading my ch34x.ko from the above link, try adding the keep-groups. If not using Podman, well it might just work without doing crap. To install, copy to /lib/modules/5.16.17-sun50iw9/kernel/drivers/usb/serial/, and run depmod -a. Maybe mv the original file too, it’s ch341.ko.

Update It works with the driver included with kernel. All because of a permission error, I compiled an ARM64 kernel, using Lima. Which was using QEMU, so I can compile the scripts for ARM instead of x86_64.

And I didn’t get enough purple glue sticks. Used a ton on the bed. 20 grams or whatever, I think is what the super glue I got is, and that isn’t really that much. Should have bought cheaper super glue, somebody online said some other glue works fine for them. Not even sure I covered the entire bed. How often do you have to put more glue on it though? I think it might dry a little too fast, so hard to tell if you covered it all.

Perhaps I was pressing down too hard. Should have got like six sticks though, instead of two. You can use almost one stick to cover it all. There’s got to be something better.

Well, those headers might help somebody else anyways. If they need some other driver, or a custom one.

I think I’ll compile a 6.x kernel eventually, and see if it boots. I will replace the scripts with ARM64 ones, won’t compile the entire kernel using Lima/QEMU though. The kernel it has is end of life. You get nothing, no bug fixes, or security fixes.

Glue didn’t fix problem, I think it isn’t level. That is the nozzle thing is moving it. It has auto level, guess it’s useless. Installed a plugin, that might help. I think you can set an offset.

Firmware got an error. Perhaps I do need that other driver.

Looks like printer may have crapped out. Nice firmware, or auto leveling hardware. Too bad I threw the box out. And it was printer, it was frozen. Maybe I should have kept old firmware.

And clicking bed leveling didn’t crap out this time. No idea if the driver is to blame, or just luck. No idea how it’s going to print with a target of 0, for the tool.

Oh and don’t cancel on the screen, OctoPrint will crap out, perhaps why bed leveling didn’t work, had to restart OctoPrint. Couldn’t even disconnect.

And it doesn’t heat up the tool at the same time.

Is it supposed to move? What it’s printing. Canceling works, if you do it in OctoPrint. You can’t set the nozzle height to 0.x with OctoPrint. The lowest is 1mm. That’s the extrusion length. No idea if it’s the same. Still not right, perhaps 4mm will work, did 3mm. Maybe I did the slicing wrong, printing directly from Cura now. After activating the only nozzle I have. There’s a plugin for Cura to print to OctoPrint.

Should install the plugin that attempts to resume a failed print, so I don’t have to mess with SD card anymore, uploading to SD card from OctoPrint is super slow. Still moving. Maybe the Z offset is needed. And -2.0 might have done the trick. Somebody said to buy the Ender 3 Pro or something because it has no auto leveling. They claim it isn’t hard, probably is when printer is in a tent. They might be the person that said the nozzle isn’t the right height or something. Adjusting the offset is easier.

OctoPrint is disconnected right now, as probably easier to adjust an offset on the printer itself.

And -2.50 might be working, hard to tell. It must not be very big what it’s making, cause the thing is in the way, so can’t see. It doesn’t appear as anything is stuck to the nozzle or moving.

So if you have auto leveling, and the print is moving, adjust the Z offset, I’d recommend doing so on printer. Do I even need to set it in OctoPrint? It can save it to something, but I can probably do that by going in the config or whatever on printer, and clicking save. I find adjusting the Z offset way easier then manually leveling.

I know it’s doing something, because I set it to -5.0, and I think it was touching the bed. Set it to -1.0 or -2.0 to start. Or try -2.50. Probably isn’t the same for everybody. But try a big number first, then decrease/increase smaller.

My computer isn’t by the printer, and no camera hooked up, so using OctoPrint for Z offset would be a pain. I’d need a USB hub to plug a camera into the Pi over there, only one USB port. I have a extra USB 3.0 hub, but I’d rather save that for something using USB 3.0. And it probably needs to be powered as well. No idea if I have a powered USB 2.0 hub.

I have a webcam that I’m pretty sure works with Linux though. But where do you put the camera? It might get hot in tent. And I’d have to print something to put it on. I doubt it can see very well through the screen on the front of tent. Also, I’d rather have kitchen light off. So need an IR one possibly.

Last resort, use Klipper

Deb packages are currently being made with Lima, using QEMU on my desktop. The Mac mini isn’t exactly fast either, even though it’s ARM. Faster then the desktop? Hard to say, maybe if it had more RAM. It uses SWAP, 8 GB of RAM sucks for macOS. Still could be slightly faster.

Actually, I should install the Linux headers that match the linux-libc-dev. That could work, since it came with that. I don’t know if I want to flash the firmware though. Somebody with the same printer, broke their printer flashing official firmware, no idea why or how.

And the instructions say to update the display firmware, but I see no micro SD slot on the screen. The instructions lie, so I won’t update with the official firmware at least. Says on the back of the display. Do you have to take it apart? I’ll pass. Glad I didn’t try to update the motherboard firmware, or if I did, it didn’t do anything. They don’t even say what file system to format the microSD card as.

I can’t figure out how to compile the scripts for the kernel, with a cross compiler. If you pass HOSTCC= to it, with the cross compiler, it’ll fail.

Distrobox doesn’t work, no working sudo with ARM64, so no installing all the crap needed. Didn’t try Podman directly. Probably won’t work.

Hmm, this might actually work. Well, I can stop compiling if it compiles the module needed. I might still switch to Klipper though.

Nice Ubuntu bug, won’t let you run commands needed to get headers ready.


CONFIG_SECURITY_SELINUX_DISABLE=y

Maybe that’ll get past the nice error. Nope, now it’s tools/be_byteshift.h. The SELINUX crap causes a classmap.h error. I set some of that to n. And added the above. Edit .config in a text editor.

And you probably need the virtual SD feature, if you use an Orange Pi Zero 2. The CPU is slow. Or is it the microSD card? Seeing if Debian instructions work, for building kernel modules. Probably not. It’s Ubuntu after all. Well, module-assistant is installing a bunch of crap. Just run m-a a-i -k /usr/src/linux-headers-5.15.0-71 . in the source folder.

Hmm, I should copy the entire src folder from Lima, and it might work, needed configured kernel source.

I don’t think it’s actually exiting when you click exit, just the dialog. Perhaps it’s getting the source ready. Or not. Got to go to bed. The Pi can crash for all I care.

Klipper

Beats Studio Buds weren't worth the money

Not sure what tips are on em, possibly the smallest ones. Still fall out of ears, very easily. Possibly sweat makes em fall out faster. I should put the medium or whatever back on, those may be the best, but not perfect.

And the noise canceling is useless, at least with Linux. 50% volume should be plenty loud.

The Echo Buds are superior. Except, for when it decides to reconnect to the iPhone, it can be connected to two things at once, but it cuts out for a second while connecting to something else. Didn’t know they disconnected from my phone.

I think to not use that feature, you have to go in Bluetooth on the iPhone and disconnect.

So I can listen to music on computer and phone at the same time? Nice.

Ok, Echo Buds noise canceling is useless too, I just heard a loud ass vehicle drive by.

Don’t ask me what the point of being connected to two devices, you can only hear one thing at a time. If you answer a call, I guess you’ll hear it, but the music might continue playing on other device, you just can’t hear it.

You can’t hear the people outside. They should take their shitty vehicle to a mechanic, there’s clearly something wrong with it.

Who raised the price of toilet paper? Almost $20 bucks to wipe my ass now. The rest of the world is smart, using water, cleaner, and way more effective.

You can hear dogs barking, so these earbuds are about as useless. Nope, same error. Good luck. Might need a full blown virtual machine. What a pain in the ass. Just to compile the kernel scripts using ARM and not x86_64.

You probably need over hear headphones for the best noise canceling. And if your ears start itching, perhaps they won’t with those. Maybe too much earwax makes them fall out, you aren’t supposed to clean your ears. But I won’t buy Beats of any kind again. If they didn’t fall out of my ears, perhaps I would.

I have some wired headphones that are over ear, too much work to plug them into desktop, the reason I got a Bluetooth card. Maybe I can 3D print something to keep these earbuds in my ears. I looked once, couldn’t find anything.

Which sound better? The Beats? Perhaps when they don’t fall out of your ears.

Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo

It’s finally printing, the instructions it came with, didn’t bother telling me how to insert the filament. It came yesterday, but didn’t put together till today. Glad it wasn’t one that needed more putting together.

It took me two hours, for “three” steps. Much longer if you count the time to get filament in. The tent was much easier to assemble. It’s big, but was easy enough.

Can’t use it with OctoPrint on my Orange Pi Zero 2, not until I compile a custom kernel. No headers available, so can’t compile the driver needed, thanks Orange Pi.

It’s printing the rabbit on the micro SD card. And it’s going to fail, it’s sliding all over the place. Well, good luck in that case. And the filament fell off the thing, it’s the stuff it came with.

The way the screen and filament holder “attach” isn’t secure. The screen won’t go back on now, or stay on. I knocked the filament holder off more then once.

I should probably stop the print. Stopped it. I think somebody said to use glue. I tried looking for some, didn’t find any. Another thing I need to add to my cart on Walmart. Will super glue work? I think they said a stick of glue. Bummer, already have super glue in cart. How much glue do I need?

Well, no printing until Thursday most likely then.

Do they expect printing to work without sliding?

Well, it might be compiled, but not in DEB packages. Not following the instructions completely now. For compiling. Using the other instructions, for not cross compiling, but modified for cross compiling. It says you need to run make mproper if you try to build the deb package. No idea why you’d want to build it in it’s own directory anyways. Use the same directory the source is in. At least no complaints yet, and compiling is sure taking longer.

To insert the filament, you push down on a level while pushing it in. It’s by the hole kind of, on the Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo printer, and you have to push hard. Make sure it isn’t hot, or you’ll probably be sorry. And my left arm or hand isn’t as strong, so pushing it in was a real pain in the ass.

Here are the instrucitons that told me about the level. Pictures are useless they provider though. It took me a while to figure out where the level is, and which way to push it. If you hold on to the other side of the extruder or whatever it’s called, it’s easier to push it in.

If it’s in a tent, you may have to move the printer side ways, put the screen that won’t stay on, on the printer. Not on the side where they claim you attach it. Just let it rest on top of the printer wherever it’ll reach with cable plugged in, or unplug the cable. Another reason to wait till it cools down.

Look at debian/rules in a nano or something, no wonder it wasn’t working. The instructions from Ubuntu don’t work. I’m using the kernel from here. And it might not build the headers. How do I cross compile a kernel module?

Or just copy the entire source folder to the Orange Pi. And then compile it, after installing it. I have a backup, so if it doesn’t boot, I can just restore the backup.


make[2]: *** [kernel/Makefile:159: kernel/kheaders_data.tar.xz] Error 127

Nice error, DuckDuckGo can’t find the solution, I got that before now too, not sure which instructions though. No idea what to do about that.

And it doesn’t take hours to compile on my desktop, might take days on the Orange Pi though.

You could always read this. But I got to go to the bathroom, and then watch TV. So maybe by Thursday, it’ll be compiled.

Don’t put a stl file on the micro SD card, you probably need to process the file. The software for Linux doesn’t have my printer model, might work with a similar printer, or not, who knows. I’m guessing the Linux software is outdated. Luckily, there’s two models to try printing.

And maybe I need to auto level yet again. I already did at least once after putting it in tent, and before I put it in the tent as well. I’ll see if Walmart has Purple Washable Glue Sticks. Good way to know if you glued everywhere. They do, the cheapest might be the two pack.

If you didn’t purchase the printer yet, buy glue sticks before you get it. And if using an Orange Pi Zero 2, enjoy compiling the kernel. Maybe you’ll finish before the printer comes, or not. In that case, use the fucking micro SD card it comes with.

Show is almost done recording.

Didn’t even know I took that picture, can’t tell what it is either.

Photo of printer in tent. The USB cable isn’t like that anymore, there’s actually a spot to put cables, on the left side, put power cable through first. A little hole for cables. Not plugged in though, the screen turns on or stays on, and if you try calibrating when only the screen is on, it freezes. You have to unplug USB, and then turn it on. Or turn it off, if you tried turning it on while it’s frozen.

And TV show should be ready to watch. This can upload while I watch it.

The tent makes it even bigger. Hopefully I don’t need anything else on my table. Might keep me from piling stuff up on table. Glad I only paid I assume $223.2, Amazon doesn’t say the price for it, because other stuff is in the order. I subtracted the discounts from $319. Not worth much more, thanks to shitty way to “attach” screen and filament holder. Also Allen wrenches suck. My hands actually hurt really bad really quickly while putting it together. At least they stopped hurting.

Drenched in sweat as well. Not sure it was worth it, maybe if they included glue.

If you are wondering, it has a nozzle on it, as it must, since it was actually printing, must be a pain to remove it though. It comes with an extra one.

Not sure their filament is the best. Read the good reviews on HATCHBOX, apparently it’s more forgiving on temperatures used, I think a review said. So good for idiots like me. It comes with filament, but I bought some as well, the same brand as printer. But I’ll try HATCHBOX in the future. Assuming glue fixes the sliding problem, and the printer doesn’t die or something.

You’ll want a tent, unless you possibly want an uncontained fire. I’m paranoid, so I put it in a tent. Also, there’s a lot of dust in my apartment, even if you dust. It will come back fast. Maybe I can 3D print a more secure method to attach filament holder and screen. Or just don’t use filament holder.

You can 3D print dicks as well, there’s some on some site, it’s a plant box thing, where the balls are, you can put a plant there.

I’m going to print a shit thing out for the bathroom, different types of shit. And I need glue for that, the shit prints out separately. Hopefully I don’t need to sand it, cause I have no dremel anymore. And going to print a container thing for batteries for my mom. Don’t think you have to glue that. Or do you? I gave her my dremel. They may be able to find it. But I’ll still buy another one, and give her the one I gave her back. Even if she doesn’t use it. I’ll get a corded one, it’s cheaper, and I don’t need cordless.

Got past error 127. Didn’t have to install everything from the chnagest.rst file.

Installed iptables and sphinx, probably don’t need iptables though. I think that’s on the system you install it on. The versions should be fine on that, it’s running the same kernel, or whatever Orange Pi compiled, same version I think though. It’s running Ubuntu in Distrobox. So iptables is probably useless. Or it’ll be modifying the firewall for openSUSE. Might as well use the openSUSE iptables. I’m too lazy to find the required compiler for openSUSE, or to compile it. And the openSUSE packages would probably be newer, no idea if it matters.

And I just checked, it’s compiling with aarch64-linux-gnu-gcc, at least that’s what is running.

Installed cpio as well.

Can you use this kernel with Armbian? No idea how to get it working with Armbian though. No idea how to get it working with Ubuntu either. Too lazy to resetup the Orange Pi. So Ubuntu is staying on it.

Looks like there’s dust on the bed, in that photo. That didn’t take long. Will putting glue get rid of the dust or glue the dust to it? Cause I’m too lazy and blind to clean it. I only noticed dust in photo. Might be invisible to my naked eyes.

Perhaps I should change the CPU to performance. But I’m using the new AMD frequency driver, and now it gets hotter. It lets it clock faster, but possibly lower as well. Still on powersave though. At least it’s a free speed boost, even if it’s still in powersave. Maybe Firefox is faster now. But probably still has annoying bug that makes it not worth using. Everybody else is too lazy to report it, and so am I. Or it affects almost nobody.

The problem is, it’s only using one thread most likely. Didn’t check with ps, but canceled it and edited debian/rules. It’s using all 12 now.

You need rsync as well. Couldn’t Distrobox install the all the default Ubuntu crap?

Before installing that kernel, I’m only installing the headers, to see if it will compile. The driver that is. If it does, I’ll see if I can load it. Hmm, I think that kernel is newer, guess I should just install it.

If I reboot, and it doesn’t connect to WiFi, I’ll probably need to restore the backup.


Error! The /var/lib/dkms/wireguard/1.0.20210606/5.17.0-custom/aarch64/dkms.conf for module wireguard includes a BUILD_EXCLUSIVE directive which does not match this kernel/arch.

That might cause issues. If I disable the firewall, I could still connect, if it connects to WiFi.

How long does it take to boot? Probably isn’t working, bummer. I think you just have to delete uInitrd and make a new symlink to the old kernel. But I’ll see if there’s any lights on it, and if Ethernet works. Ran ufw disable I think, should have ran systemctl disable ufw. Not sure it really matters though. Should delete the wired network config, or I mean move it, so it doesn’t use it. Need a serial console though, that would be easier.

You might need this.

Well, good luck. Perhaps that isn’t an official Orange Pi Zero 2 kernel, as it should include the device tree. Going to change the symlinks, and go to bed. No idea why it won’t use the old DTB files though.

The camera shouldn't be able to bypass WireGuard now

I was checking to make sure it was blocked from using wlan0, I used Wireshark, the SSH method that uses tcpdump, but on the router. Yesterday, I used tcpdump on the Orange Pi Zero 2, but it didn’t appear to be accessing the DNS set on the camera. It uses Google DNS by default I guess.

I noticed, because the AP showed the camera’s IP, instead of the Orange Pi Zero 2’s IP.

The easiest way to block it is by editing /etc/ufw/before.rules.


-A ufw-before-forward -i eth0 -o wlan0 -j DROP

That’s all you need. It’s the first *filter for me. That is above, all the other rules in *filter.

I can still access the camera over WireGuard. Still nothing in Wireshark from the camera’s IP.

Looks like the AP shows the Orange Pi Zero 2’s IP again. I thought it wasn’t connected at first earlier, because I was looking for the Zero 2’s IP. Then noticed the camera’s IP was in the list. But it must be connected, because I could access the camera.

UrBackup may be working over WireGuard now

You have to use the WireGuard client in internet mode. Click add client, make a name, then follow instructions.

Well actually, don’t follow instructions until you put server_idents.txt in /usr/local/var/urbackup/. I got it from my Raspberry Pi, but it’s in the same folder on the server as well.

And I don’t know if you need the port number, if you already installed using from the UrBackup site. I’d try it without the port number. So for the server-url use “urbackup://xx.xx.xx.xx”.

Kind of annoying, I had to connect the server to the VPN.

And it’s backing up.

Hmm, I should backup that server_idents file perhaps. Except, it’s hard to believe every Pi and desktop’s storage will die at the same time.

I think I know how my phone can access the wired network with WireGuard, it’s using 0.0.0.0/0, to route everything. Perhaps changing the WireGuard VPN over the VPN is a bad idea. Unless you use a command, that keeps running if you lose your connection.

The file was empty after I put micro SD card in my card reader. Not sure allowing access to wired network killed it. Perhaps disable firewall, and run the script over the WiFi IP. I’ll probably leave the SSH rule on the router enabled, so I don’t have to enable it in the future.


nmcli connection delete wg0
CONF_FILE="/etc/wireguard/wg0.conf"
nmcli connection import type wireguard file "$CONF_FILE"
nmcli device modify wg0 autoconnect yes
nmcli con modify wg0 autoconnect yes

After editing /etc/wireguard/wg0.conf, you can run the above, put it in a sh file. Or any file, and make it executable. Easier then manually typing every command over and over again. You can even make it .ass.

Office Chair Cylinder Replacement with Removal Tool, Heavy Duty Hydraulic - Pneumatic Gas Lift Piston for Office Chairs and Gaming Chairs, Universal Fit

I got the one from The Office Oasis Store, which came with a not very useful tool apparently. She said the Allen wrench it came with didn’t work.

Well, the chair is fixed, but I guess the thing to lower it up and down is stripped or something, you can use pliers. I probably stripped it on accident. But which part? The plastic thing that won’t stay on? I just removed the plastic things from both sides, no idea if the other one for locking and unlocking the back works, it reclines. I used pliers on both sides, cause I didn’t know which side made it go up and down, then had to figure out how to lock it again.

Oh and I don’t remember how tall the chair was before. I can’t put my leg on top of other leg anymore, and the monitor doesn’t seem the right height. Or maybe the monitor is fine, you can always slouch.

More comfortable then the other chair, and I should have fixed it to begin with. The seat is bigger, good for fat people.

It’s an Opseat, they went out of business. Probably why they did so, they use crappy cylinders. But it only cost $40 for the cylinder. I think it was a pain in the ass to fix though. I probably wouldn’t have been able to do it myself, my mom said she wouldn’t have been able to.

He used a hammer, and possibly a mallet, a mallet was out I think she said.

Now to unplug Orange Pi Zero 2 again, I forgot incoming on wlan0 is denied. And I messed up WireGuard. Glad it has a microSD card, and not a NVMe SSD. Trying to get UrBackup to work on it, no luck so far. Perhaps I’ll just backup not using that, the script the Pi uses, but the Pi also backs up to UrBackup. UrBackup is super easy and convenient.

Don’t allow it access to your wired network, well perhaps it’s fine if you do so on the server as well.

The camera is finally working on WiFi

It has no internet access, or shouldn’t, unless I somehow allowed it. I tested by changing the NTP server, and the non local one doesn’t seem to work.

It’s connected by Ethernet to a Orange Pi Zero 2, which is routing it over WireGuard. The camera has WiFi, but no WireGuard.

I did have it working so it could save videos and images to the FTP on my desktop over WireGuard, but no way to access the web interface.

Turns out, don’t use 139.96.30.0/24 for eth0, use 139.96.30.1/24 instead. Who said to use .0? No idea. The Orange Pi Zero 2 couldn’t even ping it. No idea how the camera could connect to my desktop though. And I don’t need a SSH proxy to access the camera anymore.

Add the subnet to the peer in your wg0.conf file, the actual client doesn’t need it though. Your other client will though, in my case my desktop. Not on the server for the desktop, for your local config to connect to the server. I tried without it, didn’t work. Probably because there’s no route being added.

Using NetworkManager isn’t a good idea for sharing it, as you can’t change the iptables rules as far as I know, so probably will have internet access. I just configured eth0 in manual mode, with the IP, and used Dnsmasq for giving my camera an IP.

bind-interfaces doesn’t work, it won’t start when rebooting. No idea if I needed to edit my systemd file for it, oh well. I’m to lazy to reinstall it and overwrite the modified systemd. bind-dynamic works though.

Using ufw for the firewall, with some custom rules in /etc/ufw/before.rules.


cat /etc/dnsmasq.conf
interface=eth0
#listen-address=139.96.30.1
#bind-interfaces
bind-dynamic
dhcp-range=139.96.30.150,139.96.30.250,36h
dhcp-host=xxx,139.96.30.xxx,36h
#no-resolv
#dhcp-option=121,139.96.30.0/24,139.96.30.0
dhcp-option=3,139.96.30.1
server=10.15.10.1
bogus-priv
domain-needed
port=0

No DNS needed, the WireGuard server has DNS. And it doesn’t need to connect to any domains anyways.


# nat Table rules
*nat
:POSTROUTING ACCEPT [0:0]

# Forward traffic from eth0 through wg0
-A POSTROUTING -o eth0 -j MASQUERADE
-A POSTROUTING -s 139.96.30.0/24 -o wg0 -j MASQUERADE
# don't delete the 'COMMIT' line or these nat table rules won't be processed
COMMIT

*filter
:ufw-before-input - [0:0]
:ufw-before-output - [0:0]
:ufw-before-forward - [0:0]
:ufw-not-local - [0:0]

-A ufw-before-forward -m state --state NEW -i eth0 -j ACCEPT

# allow dhcp client to work
-A ufw-before-input -p udp --sport 67 --dport 68 -j ACCEPT

# allow dhcp server (Goes under dhcp client)
-A ufw-before-input -p udp -i eth0 --sport 67:68 --dport 67:68 -j ACCEPT

COMMIT

And you can figure out the ufw rules you add using ufw yourself. I think the only two needed is wg0 route in and out. At least, the only one with packets. I could delete all the non needed crap, but I’m lazy, and it might break. I have the default forwarding/routing set to deny. You can also set that to allow.

Chain ufw-user-output (1 references)
 pkts bytes target     prot opt in     out     source               destination         
    0     0 ACCEPT     all  --  any    eth0    anywhere             10.15.10.0/24       
    4  1318 ACCEPT     all  --  any    eth0    anywhere             139.96.30.0/24      
    3   990 DROP       all  --  any    eth0    anywhere             anywhere            

If you want no internet on it.

Now I need to install OctoPrint.

I think the Arch Linux Wiki said something about .0, perhaps I didn’t read it all. And probably configuring it with something else.

If you set that IP and .1, it still won’t work.

I had to remove the micro SD card many times. Figured out how without a paperclip, since I put the board on wrong, used the wrong screw thing, it moves slightly. If you have an Ethernet cable plugged into it, you can push it in the right spot easier. I found out on accident, so hopefully this card won’t die. I have a three pack of PNY cards coming, think it was $4 per card, so $12 total. I only need one or more if any cards die, or the NVMe drive in the Orange Pi 5 dies. I probably won’t buy anymore of these Samsung cards though, as I’m not sure the screwdriver is what killed it. I think it resized the partition when you boot up, and I may have unplugged while it was doing that, which may have killed the card. Endurance my ass. Do NVMe SSDs die if you do that? If so, make sure you have a generator when formatting anything. UPSes use shitty batteries that swell up, so no UPS for me. Heavy too.

I had to delete the wired NetworkManager config, and sometimes disable ufw. If you set a gateway on eth0, you’ll kill your internet. Or maybe only if you have the wrong IP, no idea, not trying again. I used chroot to do it, guess openSUSE has everything needed to chroot into ARM. You can’t edit the config with nmcli using chroot, and the gateway isn’t in the file, so I just deleted it. Or maybe you can with chroot, if mount stuff you might need, like /dev/. I just chroot without that though, I’m lazy. And how will that work? The network interfaces aren’t the same on my desktop.

Finally got my AppArmor profile for Vivaldi not able to read or write everything in /media

One of the includes, allows access to everything in /media. Just realized that today, and don’t want that. You can list files, but not read or write. You can read and write to /media/media/Downloads, but nothing else.


  deny /media/[^media/]** rw,
  deny /media/media/[^Downloads/]** rw,
  deny /srv/** rw,
  deny /mnt/** rw,

  /media/media/Downloads/** r,
  /home/*/Downloads/** r,
  owner /media/media/Downloads/** rw,
  owner /home/*/Downloads/** rw,

There’s the rules to do that, and deny /srv/ and /mnt, that the include also allows.

No idea if symlinks need to be added.

WiFi calling is useless

According to the internet, it looks like if you have a good cell signal, WiFi calling won’t be used.

You can force it on, at least on an iPhone. Put it in airplane mode, and enable WiFi, if it isn’t. It’ll remember you want WiFi in airplane mode. But as soon as I disable airplane mode, shortly after, it stops using WiFi calling.

It does work, I called my magicJack number. So if I want to use my WiFi for calling, I guess I have to use airplane mode. Or the Tello app, which doesn’t always work.

I think to get Tello app working with WireGuard, I need to assign an IPv6 address to it. But I don’t know IPv6 addresses. So good luck. Looks like a bunch of randomness to me. I could look it up, but I’m incredibly lazy.

Orange Pi Zero 2

Should be coming today, I’ll upload this once it comes. A day early, so he might be able to put the cylinder on chair. The Amazon package is Orange Pi Zero 2 stuff and a cylinder for my better chair.

Need to do something on the Raspberry Pi, so it can connect to WireGuard, I’ll have to lookup instructions. I can’t remember crap.

Does Podman work on it? Or is it super slow? I need to put OctoPrint on it too, there is a image with that on it for the Orange Pi Zero 2, don’t ask me if it’s a regular image that you can install stuff on. I’ll just use the Ubuntu image from Orange Pi. And Podman is easy anyways. I may have ordered the 3D printer, $32 off + lightning deal.

Probably don’t need a camera looking in my room anymore, nothing happens anymore, not even the Steam Deck wakes up anymore. Oh well, VPNs are fun anyways.

Hmm, the Arch Linux Wiki, has a related link to VPNs and containers, didn’t think about that. Looks like a pain to install it without Podman.

If you set Podman to use the host networking, will it use WireGuard? And is Podman a container? The Wiki page is about LXC.

Now to figure out how to actually connect to the stuff on it over the VPN. Actually, you might just use the WiFi address, but you’ll need to be connected to the VPN on the other device. I can connect to my wired IPs, when connected to a VPN. Might not work, I might need the server on the Orange Pi Zero to do that. Perhaps point to point would work. Looks like it might work, if I edit allowed-ips. But for my desktop, should already be everything.

Now to lookup how to configure firewall to only allow incoming connections from WireGuard. Oh and sharing the connection. And need to see if my desktop can connect to VPN as well. Says I’m connected. Had to add the VPN config, apparently never added it in openSUSE. Luckily, still in my /home folder.

But another way is, to redirect a port to the device on wg0 on the Raspberry Pi. Then you don’t need a VPN. But that’s messy. Not sure I want to always be connected to the VPN though. Not that it matters.

The firewall should be easy with ufw, think that comes with Ubuntu, if not, use apt to install it.

I’d use Armbian, but it says community supported for the Orange Pi Zero 2, and that it hangs sometimes when rebooting. No thanks to hanging while rebooting randomly. Need to figure out how to setup a DHCP server, so it gives the camera an IP, cause I’m too lazy to configure a static IP.

Update After 3 hours or so, it might almost be ready to boot. I think I killed the new micro SD card, by trying to get it out with a screw driver, use a paperclip. Or by removing it from desktop without ejecting it.

The case is a eleUniverse Orange Pi Zero 2 Case N500, Metal Case with 5V 3010 Cooling Fan and 4pcs Aluminum Heatsinks & Antenna. I don’t recommend, metal sides, that can’t be removed, so have fun screwing it down. Apparently my fingers aren’t tiny, and I can’t see what I’m doing because my fingers block my view.

Antenna came unplugged, so plugged the antenna from case in. And not sure which side the washer goes on.

Do magnets kill micro SD cards? The screw driver is slightly magnetic, not enough though. Antenna is loose on the case, I’m not unscrewing it again, to try and put washer on other side, I risk unscrewing the antenna from the board, which was a massive pain to plug in. And my pinky hurts from all that crap.

Noctua NF-A4x10 5V, Premium Quiet Fan, 3-Pin, 5V Version (40x10mm, Brown) got that for the Pi 5, and it works, might be one degree hotter when doing nothing, seemed to stay under 50C when transcoding. Didn’t test for very long though. And it can probably handle 50C or more. The fan the Pi 5’s case came with is super loud, you can’t even hear this one.

And the fan on that metal case, you can’t hear, but it’s working.

Bummer I killed my brand new micro SD card. The other Samsung I used to setup the Pi 5. Now I need another micro SD card, in case the Pi 5’s NVMe drive dies. I only paid around $4 from Best Buy. $5 reward.

If you have a fingernail, perhaps you can remove the micro SD card without a paperclip. Or perhaps the Pi Zero 2 killed the card. Before plugging the other card in the new Pi, I plugged back into desktop, it can still detect that one. The other card is dead, nice. Thought I only scraped paint off. Apparently did more damage then that.

More lights this time. And the fan cable is covering the USB port, you can’t plug anything in. Oh crap, I need that if I ordered a 3D printer. I’ll wait to unscrew the case yet again, till it comes.

Oh and I put the board down wrong. I was supposed to use the one on top, on bottom, no idea how you’d screw that in though. I had a hell of a time, doing it the way I did. I tried tape, the only thing that worked was some pliars to hold it. And a magnetic screwdriver to screw it in. And the two back ones, I had to use extra screws, so I could use screw driver to get it in place. Well, that didn’t really work. Had to find a way to get pliars back there.

Good luck, the Pi Zero 2 is tiny, and a massive pain if you want a case. At least a metal case. And it has an IP. And it idles hot, even with heatsinks. Maybe I was supposed to put one by the WiFi plug, don’t know what that is. And it seems my AP. So the antenna must be working. Need to change the mirror, don’t want to download from China, slow, and China isn’t great.

And I don’t think you can use official repos. No idea if there’s any other ones. Guess from China it is. Or find a different image to flash.

The fan grill I couldn’t use with the Pi 5. The screws might not be long enough, maybe if you take rubber things off fan, I think I saw rubber things on it. Might be louder though.

Using the built in command for adding stuff, I added WireGuard, and it killed the network. Nice. Even allowed it access to SSH over WiFi, but can’t connect. I rebooted it. Need a paperclip to get micro SD card out. Might just deal with Armbian and random hanging on rebooting.

Some paint came off of the micro SD card, but Linux still detects it. Perhaps the magnet killed the other one. Not sending it back, they’ll say it’s my fault, it is.

And no working WiFi with Armbian. Either have to use official image, or find a disstro that works, don’t know of any, bummer.

Got to go to bed, guess I should plug camera back in, since it’s not moving yet.

Passkeys work in Linux

You need Bluetooth though, if the Passkey is on an iPhone. I have an expensive PCIe card, with WiFi and Bluetooth, only use the Bluetooth on it though. USB Bluetooth sucks in Linux.

The easiest way to connect iPhone to Linux, is by making Linux visible, otherwise if in an apartment, you’ll see a shitload of MAC addresses, I have no idea what my phone’s MAC address is. Make it visible, then connect on your iPhone. When in Bluetooth on the iPhone, it says it should say iPhone or whatever your iPhone name is, I saw no iPhone name, when adding a device on my desktop.

After you connect it, then setup a Passkey on whatever site, like Google, you scan a QR code. And when signing in, make sure you connect to the iPhone, if you trust and authorize, it should show up in the Bluetooth menu, just click iPhone. After connecting, you scan a QR code.

It isn’t perfect, so it may take more then one try, to add the Passkey, or sign in.

The iPhone probably only auto connects to Apple devices. I could try on my Mac mini and see if it auto connects, not running the latest macOS with Passkey support. I won’t be upgrading anytime soon, I don’t like bugs. Might even skip macOS 13 or whatever the newest is. Maybe stay on 12 or whatever, until no security updates. My outgoing firewall may or may not work in macOS 13. It’s the free one.

Possibly no 3D printer next month, depends if the republicans decide to fund the government or not. If they don’t, perhaps no internet either anymore. ACP pays Comcast, I don’t want to give Comcast any money. Funny, they want to cut spending, but when republicans are in office, they spend more money. Spend less, and get no funding, makes sense. Oh and some people getting government help vote republican. Do they listen to anything they say?

Maybe they just won’t fund the government, good luck voting them out of office, as there won’t be any office anymore. Ahh they won’t have any money, or money that’s worth anything, bummer for them.

On another note, the Steam Deck hasn’t woke itself up for two days now. So I’m going to consider it unexplained. As if it’s software, it shouldn’t stop doing it for two days. So perhaps somebody you can’t see is or was waking it up.

Fries still stick to Instant Pot air frying basket

I got a spray bottle, sprayed the fries with olive oil, and the basket. Probably used less oil on the fries. Probably not the air frying basket.

So I guess I need something to put in the basket and the fries on it. That’s a pain in the ass. So is cleaning the air fryer basket with stuck food on it.

Perhaps all the oil is cooking off, that I put on the basket. In that case, maybe don’t use 400F. It’ll take longer then 20 minutes most likely if you do that though.

Amazon’s shipping is slow sometimes, because they wait to ship your stuff, till they feel like it. You aren’t getting it early, even if you need one thing before somebody leaves town. Might be too hard to remove the old cylinder from my better computer chair. So that means it’ll be sitting there until he gets back in town, because Amazon sucks.

Didn’t even know what the thing was called on computer chairs that keep it up. I would have ordered the cylinder when it broke, rather then buying this crappy chair.

And ordering the cylinder from somewhere else, probably would have been slower. Too bad Amazon no longer has two day shipping. The other stuff, most of it, you can’t really order anywhere else, not if you want it shipped from the US. Enjoy dealing with customs, they say it’s your responsibility. No thanks.

Bodhi really wants to clean my face after eating

I let him clean my shirt after eating. I probably shouldn’t though, he’s allergic to lots of stuff. I’d rather not let him clean my face though, he eats poop. I don’t let him clean my hands either.

He doesn’t always clean my shirt very well though. Like last time. I think he wants to clean my face more then my shirt.

I make a mess on my face and shirt when eating some stuff.

You should see him after I’m done eating, he comes over, looks at me, and is wagging his tail.

I think he can eat string cheese, so I’m going to get some. No idea if I’ll go on anymore walks with them. But I’m just going to bring some string cheese over there, and give them some. Probably not everyday though, Bodhi and Utah don’t need to get fat. Most dogs are happy when you feed them human food, at least labs are. Not sure about border collies, like Ruby. Tonka liked people food, but she was probably mostly lab. In fact, cheese was one of Tonka’s favorite food.

Utah is usually in his kennel when eating, he will steal your food. He likes going in my lap though. She said once, he’s waiting for me to tell him no. Well, good luck with that. I guess he’ll be a lap dog in that case. I like dogs in my lap, the size doesn’t seem to matter. Problem is, his claws might rip the couch. She can’t put anything on the couch that might prevent that, because he’ll take it off and eat and/or chew it up. He’s an extreme lab, he eats everything. He’d probably eat the clothes on me, if I let him.

Then you can tell the officer, your dog ate your clothes.

I won’t be getting a lab puppy or any puppy. Too much work, and if a lab puppy, they might try eating everything in my apartment, or just chew it up, well any puppy will chew stuff up.

Even an older lab, Bodhi’s age, is probably too much work. He really likes walks, and I really don’t like leaving my apartment. And if you don’t walk labs, they might get arthritis when older. Good luck managing their weight without walking. Also, they really like walking.

Oh and good luck managing a cats weight if you have more then one cat. They will just eat the non special or diet food. And good luck on walking them. Even with only one cat, you might go insane, they might just meow at you, and harass you, if they don’t want the special or diet food. Cats can get arthritis too.

I won’t clean a litter box, so no cat for me. I probably don’t want to smell it either. I suppose you could try training them to go outside on a leash. You’ll have to dig up their shit to pick it up though.

Tiny Life will be in Early Access on the 3rd

Looks like it has cars. It’s basically The Sims, but retro style. I already bought the demo, so I get Early Access for free. I haven’t really played it much, only once I think. Waiting was worth it, there’s more stuff.

I think you can make mods for it easily, The Sims at least in the past, the modding community I think had to figure everything out by themselves.

Somebody is making a modern The Sims like game, can’t recall what it’s called, and no idea if a native Linux version will be available. If there is, I’ll buy it.

But Tiny Life is probably the most entertaining. Now if you want adult mods, you might want modern.

Hmmm, once it releases in Early Access, maybe I’ll try making a mod. That turns everybody into a dick. At least the ladies. Too much work, you have to make a dick somehow, either a 3D model, or I guess draw one. When they talk, they can shoot stuff out. You can sleep in beds with neighbors, I don’t think that works too well in The Sims. Actually, if I recall right, the neighbor may have woke up and got mad.

Oh and some bot from China called my Tello number, that I don’t give out. YouMail had the number, I deleted my account, and the app. Who else has my Tello number? I don’t use YouMail, it costs too much.

Or turn all the ladies into boobs, and put the mod on SacredBoobs.com.de. I need an AI that makes 3D models, or a program that turns images into 3D models. There might be one program, it’s expensive though. You can use Stable Diffusion to make the image. Oh wait, you might need multiple angels. A AI that makes 3D images would be better, like Stable Diffusion, but 3D models.

No cell provider to switch to, so I’m stuck with Tello. I may in the future have to use a VPN to pay the bill, they like to randomly block all of my WiFi IPs. Well, I do pay with a wired connection. But you can’t check your data usage on WiFi if they block you. Perhaps turn auto renew off, and then lose service and the number, if I can’t pay the bill. Since China is calling the number, I don’t care. If they are going to randomly block me from their site, I also don’t care if I lose service.

And if that happens, I’ll switch to T-Mobile Prepaid, but no rollover data. I won’t use Verizon of any kind, they are supposed to have the best network, but no 5G in my apartment, pretty sad. AT&T might work, but not many MVNOs and costs more, so I’ll pass.

It’s probably more entertaining because it’s retro, and they might have added humor to it. And it isn’t The Sims. I’ve played The Sims so much, that it’s kind of boring now.

Hmm, I need to lookup a 3D AI maker now. I can make some models for The Sims, for the adult mod. Ladies with dicks of course.

Oh and I’m a pretty hairy robot. She said Kaiser won’t leave a message, with the greeting I have. No worries, I don’t care. I’m a pretty hairy robot.

Can't access Tello on my phone on WiFi again

You can’t disable IPv6 on an iPhone, not on the phone itself. But that probably won’t fix it, wouldn’t work on my mom’s WiFi earlier, now it’s not working at home, the Tello app and even Tello.com.

I think I’ll just switch my service, resetting the DUID or whatever, to get access to their site on my WiFi isn’t worth the trouble. I’ll lose all my rollover data if I do that though.

So they are blocking my two iPs on my WiFi? Kind of funny, cause it works on my desktop. But actually, they are blocking every IP on my WiFi, don’t think it works on the Steam Deck on WiFi either.

Blocking people won’t keep customers. The IPs on wired network, might be in the same range though. So not sure they are blocking anything, more like IPv6 is busted on Comcast.

What I can’t figure out, is why WireGuard to my Raspberry Pi doesn’t fix it. Probably the shitty iPhone isn’t using the VPN for that traffic. Except, I think it works if you use the Mullvad app. Don’t ask me how to make it work with WireGuard.

If you do a trace route on the phone, it appears as though my network is fine. Ping fails though. So how is their firewall blocking only my WiFi stuff? Makes no sense.

Much easier to ditch em, ain’t worth the trouble. I can’t check my data usage in the app on WiFi, if I can’t connect.

Still works with Mullvad. Now how do I make it work with a local VPN?

Also, their IPv6 address can’t be pinged. Or something else is blocking it.

And the traceroute’s look the same on wired and WiFi network. So I guess they are somehow blocking my phone only. Nice. Dicks.

MobileX lets you keep your data forever? Basically rollover data, so pay for 1 GB, and let it rollover. But I think they use Verizon, they suck so much, there’s no 5G in my apartment.

Tello’s firewall, could be looking at your browser and crap, and then block you. But then why does it work with Mullvad? It’s stripping that data? Maybe it’s a device ban, but it doesn’t work on other WiFi devices, so that doesn’t make sense either, and the Deck uses Firefox.

Perhaps if I didn’t try accessing it at my mom’s, it would still work.

And them inspecting your browser, why would they block their own app?

Mom’s WiFi doesn’t have IPv6 enabled, so perhaps enabling it will fix it at her house. Won’t fix it for me, it’s already enabled. Perhaps the phone is trying to connect to IPv4, and it’s dead. Good luck forcing it to IPv6.

Not a DNS problem, both are going to the same IP, I’m pretty sure. And I reset the network settings on my phone, waste of time.

Maybe the shitty modem Comcast forces me to use, has issues. That doesn’t make sense either, it should be blocked on the wired network too. Perhaps the router’s IPv6 firewall is mad. It is blocking traffic to the wired IPv6 addresses, maybe it’s blocking legit traffic. Not sure Tello works on IPv4 though. Didn’t when I had this problem last time.

Oh yeah, you can’t look at IPv6 firewall on the router using web interface, it’s a dick.

When will their IPv4 come back up? Since I can’t connect to IPv6 apparently. Good idea, disable IPv4 on the WiFi VLAN, and see if it connects.

That will break lots of stuff, disabling IPv4, only firewall rules allowing connections for some stuff on IPv4, and everything blocked on IPv6, who wants to update firewall rules constantly? Private IPv6 addresses are nice. Too much work to disable IPv4.

Deleting the DUID fixing it makes zero sense as well. Guess I’ll see if that still fixes it, how many times do I have to do that though? Router rebooting.

Too bad you can’t disable IPv4 on the AP. Maybe have to reboot router again, forgot to reboot modem. Hmm, you can configure IPv6 on the AP. But why does the AP need IPv6? Pretty sure it works without the AP having an IPv6 address.

Good news, I can’t access Tello on my wired or wireless network now. At least that makes sense. I lied, had to disconnect the network on my desktop, and reconnect. Now it loads. Just not on phone.

Maybe you need to change the IPv4 address as well. How do you block WiFi only clients from accessing your app and site? I should do so for my sites too, nice feature.

It still fixes it, you have to disable WiFi, and enable it. The nice DUID trick, to get unbanned from Tello, temporally, until they ban your WiFi only again some magical way.