Does it work? It turns on. Still trying to teach my harmony remote, I haven’t got past power toggle. No idea why it won’t register anything.
I even put a CR2032 battery in it, slightly fatter then a CR2025. It turns the switch itself on with that battery, and it increased the range.
The remote is shit though, so it might be impossible to teach it to my Logitech remote.
I had to use a screwdriver, to get the battery compartment out, I was making sure there was a battery in it, and I accidentally pushed it up, and it was stuck. This is the worst remote I’ve used. You’d think for $50, you’d get a working remote, with a working battery.
I got the program to do something, said trouble understanding what to teach it. No idea how I got that, now it’s back to doing nothing.
There’s an forum post, but the link just takes me to the support page on Logitech, not the post. Google is useless. Or maybe Logitech is useless. I’m not even sure where I should be pointing it, the picture appears to be at the back of the remote. There is a IR thing on the back, just like the front. Might just give up and send it back, get my $50 back. The remote is to shitty to teach my remote, or my Logitech remote is to shitty to work.
Think I had this problem last time I tried adding something that wasn’t in it’s database.
It could be rebranded from something else, don’t know what. It did find some other brands with the same model number.
The five port no audio extractor switch, somebody got their Logitech remote to work, doesn’t say what they entered, or if they somehow taught it to it, my remote is blind or something.
Is that the same thing? Searched for it, yes it probably is. There’s three inputs, so it’s probably the same thing. Not done configuring it yet.
It has the same buttons, when you add a step for it.
Do you have to send the Arc command or just do it once? If only once, it’ll probably toggle on and off. No, I didn’t read the instructions.
The instructions aren’t very helpful. It’s done syncing, so I’ll just see what it does.
It works. But I don’t think I need to send the Arc command every time. So, I’m going to remove that step.
HDMI ARC is nice. You don’t even need everything plugged into it. Does the fancy compressed audio work without being delayed now? No idea, and don’t really care. I’ll keep the TV on good old fashioned stereo PCM. I doubt it has more then two speakers, my $100 soundbar. This switch cost half of my soundbar.
And sound still works on the PS4. That means, the ARC button just changes the ARC settings.
Does audio control from the TV really work? Don’t see the point, universal remote works fine.
You can only have eight devices on the Logitech Harmony 650 remote. I had to delete something I don’t use or need anymore.
Might of fixed the out of sync audio. Can’t really read lips, so not 100% sure. And cartoons might be hard to tell.
Works fine with the Apple TV, my only device that is 4k, that isn’t built into the TV. Except, at first it was all dark or something. It reset the settings, after changing the color mode or whatever it’s called, it wasn’t all dark. That could happen with any HDMI switch. Just had to change the resolution to non HDR 4k, and tell it to match the dynamic range and FPS or whatever it said. I don’t need the non video parts in HDR. It makes it look worse, like the home screen. And, if you play videos that aren’t HDR, they look worse too.