WEN 2305 Rotary Tool Kit with Flex Shaft apparently works, if you search for reviews using the term “3D”. Reviewers decided not to use PLA or plastic, so you have to try many search terms. The lowest RPM is 8,000, not sure that’s low enough.

You can I think friction weld with it too.

If you go to Harbor Freight’s site, you can find a BAUER 0.6 Amp Variable Speed Precision Crafting Rotary Tool Kit, 36 Piece, which goes as low as 4,000 RPM.

You can also find cheapo ones on Amazon that can go as low as 3,000 RPM I think, but it uses a battery. If the battery isn’t replaceable, or you can’t power using cord, it’ll eventually be useless.

The BAUER is $40, and I can’t find that brand anywhere else. So it’s a cheapo brand for $40? They have cheaper ones, but the $24 or $25 one doesn’t go down to 4000 RPM.

Somebody said the WEN has lasted two years, and one from Harbor Freight only lasted 3 months.

But other reviews say the WEN didn’t last, so I’m not sure one or the other is actually better. Either one could last or not.

I want to buy one Amazon sells directly, not sure why, heat gun works, and was only fulfilled by Amazon.

Spray painting it and using I forgot what it’s called, isn’t a great method. Spray painting is messy, and might be a pain for small stuff. And waiting a day to do the final coat. That’s as slow as printing some stuff.

Apparently you need protection. But why a mask? And do they make goggles that go over glasses? As if they don’t, it won’t do any good, I won’t be able to see much.

The safety goggles from Harbor Freight can be worn over most glasses. You get three for $4.

I’d rather not go inside a store, so I’d buy the stuff on Harbor Freight’s site, and pay the $7 or whatever shipping. Assuming it’s $7 no matter how much you buy. And assuming I get money next month.

But I might just leave everything not sanded until the month after next month. As I spent way too much money this month. And I may not be able to get the bed level anyways, in that case, no need to buy anything else.

Somebody said Dremels are too fast. The Dremel Stylo+ might work, the lowest RPM is 5,000. But it’s almost $70, no thanks. Comes with other stuff, but still a rip off.

The BAUER apparently works for 3D printing, search for 3D. Since nobody says PLA or plastic, plastic if they are talking about the tool itself. One review says it doesn’t work for Resin, and PLA Resin. No idea if there’s any real different, when sanding. Perhaps 0.6 Amps is a problem, but why? It can do 20,000 RPM. So perhaps they don’t know how to change the speed. In that case, can I review their review?

Now to lookup what amps means on power tools.

Apparently low amps means it won’t last long. That is it will burn out. How long can you run 0.6 amps without it burning out?

So it sounds like you want 100 Amps. That way, you’ll have a puddle of PLA.

I already have masks anyways, no goggles though. You might need a respirator mask for plastic welding though. I assume regular masks work for sanding, as they only said mask.

What’s wrong with that part being made out of plastic? You can print a part out, before using it the first time, 3D scan the part, measure it, and then you have it for when it breaks. And for the WEN, if it uses plastic, somebody probably already did all that, well maybe not 3D scanning, but made the part.

But what do you print it with? PLA? ABS? PETG? Might depend what the part is doing. If something is spinning and hitting it, it might melt. Apparently you can remove it without that part. But it sounds like a pain. But it sounds like it works with plastic, no idea about PLA.

But it sounds like I shouldn’t do it in my apartment, since plastic will fly all over. Do it in a garage or outside or something.

I can’t use regular sandpaper if it takes hours, as that’ll hurt my wrist, and my fingers will cramp up, and I’ll have to wait to move them again. Actually, bending them at all can hurt. Like trying to get wires through butt connectors. Probably need more of something in my diet, but if I can’t move my fingers, I can get a lot of care giving hours. So what’s not to like? I won’t have to do anything anymore. I can live in a nursing home, and be unable to do anything with my fingers. Not even feed myself. And since my memory is going away, I’ll soon be a man baby. All before I’m 50, did I make a world record?

But since it might eventually break, I’ll buy the WEN for less.

Somebody said the sanding stuff is no good with a WEN, not sure which WEN. Sanding what? PLA? Maybe it was when I searched for 3D. Good luck finding better quality stuff, if you don’t know what to look for. There’s some for under $10, but reviews say it wears out fast. Even for plastic? Like PLA? Maybe I want sanding drums, but good luck finding Dremel made ones. Maybe I need to search for Dremel instead of rotary tool. Maybe sanding bands. What is better quality then included with WEN, but cheaper then Dremel?

Doesn’t sound like a good idea using those on TNT. It might explode. TNT has nails? Maybe they mean toe nail trimmer. That’s not what TNT is though. I guess people can’t type words anymore.

Looks like you have to buy every cheap brand yourself, until one works.

Somebody said something about a mini card scraper, Amazon doesn’t have that. Don’t know what that is.

Here is a photo of the test cable. As you can see, I held it there too long. Probably only takes a second or two.

The hardest part is getting the wires in the connector, that is twisting the wires. I had to use a size up butt connector, because the side on one side is smaller, which is useless. Or are you supposed to put them in the same side?

The only downside I can see, is it doesn’t take long, so if you’re an idiot like me, you will hold it there too long, at least the first time. Good thing I tested it first.

Somebody said it didn’t work for butt connectors for them, either they didn’t wait long enough for it to heat up, or they have a defective heat gun.

Now if it didn’t melt the solder, I didn’t do it right. And good luck rotating the gun around it, easier to use that metal thing.

If you don’t use the metal thing, you can hold it farther away, and not do what I did.

That photo sucks, thanks shitty phone camera. Does it have no stabilization? Apparently my actual camera has better stabilization.

ASIN for the heat gun is B08VFY8THD and B07S62KYSL for butt connectors.

Now if you do it right, it’s way easier then using a soldering iron, and the heat gun was under $20. Well spent money, well I mean her money, I didn’t buy it. Running out of money.

Glad I didn’t get a more expensive heat gun, you don’t need one for butt connectors. Just waiting for heat gun to cool down, is the cable cooled down? I need to inspect it, to see if solder melted.

And it probably didn’t shrink or melt or whatever, in one spot, because of how the helping hands was holding it. It was a test anyways, so who cares. I do wonder if that cable works anymore. Might not have anything for that cable though, to plug it into. The benefit of hoarding, you get lots of cables to test butt connectors on. Not sure a hoarder would do that though. My main problem is I’m incredibly lazy.

Oh and if the stand on heat gun comes off, it’s meant to come off. So it probably isn’t broken, the other side comes off easy too, so I’m pretty sure it can go off and on.

And I did it wrong, according to instructions. You are supposed to put one wire all the way through, then twist it to the other wire, and put back in, probably to the center. I only twisted the wire on itself to get it in the butt connector, then put them in the middle, hopefully touching. If the cable works, that’s surprising. Had to pull it off of the helping hands. Says you don’t need to crimp it.

I was using helping hands to hold it, but only one side, because the other hand can’t be moved close enough apparently, or I don’t know how to move it closer.

And surprised it works, I think it said to use 400C minimum. But I did one thing right, used the reflector metal thing. Says if you are a beginner to use that. I’ll always use that, as it’s way easier. And doesn’t take very long if you do that either. Perhaps that’s why it works at only 350C. Or it gets hotter then that. Couldn’t tell if the gun was even heated enough. Said dark red, but couldn’t tell if it was dark red.

I should probably do one more test cable, before doing the printer. Might do the fan on the printer tomorrow. I can actually use that same cable to test again. Just a different spot, or redo the same one. It’s an old TV cable, yellow, white and red. I think I have an upscaler thing, but nothing to plug into it. The Wii must have some kind of HDMI I assume, probably some adapter. Don’t have any ancient consoles. So I won’t be testing the cable.

Took UPS until after 7 PM. Did a bunch of delivery people quit or something? It got slow again, or maybe UPS never got faster. USPS took until a little after 6 PM yesterday, but that was Monday. The helping hands came yesterday, got it today though. Good luck getting packages at this building.

Here is a photo of the helping hands, and fan packaging, you can see part of the fans.

Don’t ask me how long the magnifying glass will last, it was tipping over. You have to tighten something on it, now it isn’t tipping over, but maybe it will.

The ASIN for the $7 helping hands is B0002LLWYK. And the things for holding stuff, do rotate, but I’ll just move the heat gun instead. The heat gun says not to stay in one place anyways, and it’s a mini heat gun, might be hard to have it high enough without holding it. Looks more like a fat soldering iron.

Not trying to fix it tonight, should see if the heat gun works first, find some wire I don’t need, and make sure heat gun and butt connectors work. So maybe fix it Thursday, if everything works. Test the stuff tomorrow. Or wait until next month. Why not? I’m broke in my checking account. Can’t order anymore parts, well maybe some wire.

Might need to do something about my hand or hands shaking, not sure if both hands shake or just right hand. But I think going to Amsterdam, to do some measuring would be a better use of time.

That’s what something is called, carpel tunnel syndrome, only remembered the tunnel syndrome part. Left wrist or small bone or muscle has been hurting today. Possibly the muscle going down arm, that hurts if you have carpel tunnel syndrome. Maybe putting part on printer yesterday caused it to hurt, but only my left wrist or arm muscle. And don’t think my left hand did much.

The trick is, don’t use Distrobox.

podman run –arch=arm64 -it –name ubuntu-arm docker.io/ubuntu:latest /bin/bash that command works just fine.

Nice, might not need Lima anymore. You can only use Lima with Podman Desktop, if you use Podman with Lima, my container is using the default thing.

But, you’ll need to adjust that, if you want persistent files, and to easily get the files from the host. And don’t put “-it” in the wrong spot, or it won’t work. I think you want the -v option.

Now to see what happens if I run it with –user. Probably sudo won’t work. You need an image with your user in it. Or make a custom image, don’t ask me how. I had enough trouble remembering how to use Podman.

I compiled in Lima as root though, so doesn’t really matter.

And you have to make a Dockerfile or something. Too bad I’m lazy.

FROM arm64v8/ubuntu:latest 
RUN apt update
RUN apt dist-upgrade -y
RUN apt install -y nano wget build-essential bison flex libncurses-dev libssl-dev libelf-dev
RUN useradd -m --uid 1000 --user-group -s /bin/bash xxx
USER xxx
ENTRYPOINT ["/bin/bash"]

Good luck using sudo or su, you can add sudo to apt install, but it won’t work with QEMU. But running podman exec -u 0 -it ubuntu-arm /bin/bash works. Or add everything you need to install to the apt install, and rebuild the image.

Or use the VM feature, perhaps that works. Or just use Lima and Podman. Hmm, not sure sudo works with Lima Podman either though. Probably not.

And the volume mounted in it, I have no permission to access. Maybe you need “–group-add keep-groups”.

And using run directly doesn’t work, but works with Podman Desktop. It isn’t running QEMU.

And I think it’s right now, add “keep-id” to the namespace in Podman Desktop. Still don’t know why I can’t use that image, without Podman Desktop though. And it works now.

“/bin/bash: /bin/bash: cannot execute binary file” that’s what it says if you use podman run directly. That is with –arch, and I think without it the same thing. How do you get the command it used? Well, you can create a systemd file, and the command will be in it. I might just use Podman Desktop, it’s a nice GUI, and I don’t have to rememeber how to use Podman from the terminal to use it. Just have to remember how to use Podman Desktop.

Perhaps they are using their own renderer and a different user interface. But some of the dialogs look very similar.

Oh and same exact problem when trying to remove the broken finger using it as I had with Blender. It must not be selecting everything I tried selecting. So not the entire broken finger is removed.

And there’s a nice bug, you can’t access external drives, giving it full drive access, doesn’t fix anything. Don’t think you can manually add folders to the privacy thing in the settings in macOS. I ended up copying the file to the folder it shows when you import, the default folder. I didn’t bother reporting the bug. As I probably won’t even keep it.

If it’s as hard to use as Blender, to do what I think should be simple, I might as well use Blender. Blender is free, so no need for a subscription.

Somebody mentioned this, it’s $100, and there’s a native Apple Silicon version. Only a deb file for Linux, but you can use Distrobox, or extract deb and try to run without Distrobox. I’d just use Distrobox, easier.

Is it easier to select with it? And I assume that’s a one time payment?

And how do you get a STEP file? Don’t think the trial can import anything else. And it’s a one time fee. Downloading deb to see if it really can only import STEP. Nice disconnected.

But I might buy an iPad app, that may or may not work, but good for creating my own models. Nomad Sculpt looks nice, but no idea how well you can edit an obj file. Now if it works for that, it’s a bargain. Only $15. Alternative to Blender? Perhaps it’s way easier to use. And drains the battery fast it says, fine with me, that’s all I will be using iPad mini for anyways. Three devices to do what I want, Mac to make 3D model, Linux to convert it to obj, too lazy to see if the Python library works in macOS or use Linux in a container or VM, iPad to edit the obj file.

Plasticity is installed. And it imported the obj file with the trial. And selecting is apparently hard, if you don’t know how to use 3D modeling software. Going to try $15 app, perhaps it’s easier to use. I don’t want to look up how to do it in Plasticity.

Well, that iPad app might work, if you can figure it out. Perhaps I’ll look up how to properly select, part of it, instead of the entire thing. No idea if the Logitech Crayon is dead or not, it was blinking when plugged in, but stopped, so I guess it’s charged. Wasn’t turning on. It’s working now. It’s like that sculpting 3D modeling program for the computer, but for the iPad.

If it had an axe, I could at least remove the broken finger.

Nice, they have a manual. It also said for the trim thing to change something to prevent something, don’t ask me how to change the camera or whatever it said. And when you use that, it removes off other parts that you didn’t want to remove. Connected iPad to my local VPN, so I can access Samba shares. Better then using iCloud, don’t have to switch to Mac to do something, if I use Samba.

Well, I guess the iPad and Logitech Crayon might have a use now, since I’m too lazy to draw. If I ever figure out how to do what I want in the app.

Silo could work, if you are patient, and can stand the controls. I think I know what to do in Blender though, change what it selects. There’s multiple different things you can select, just using a tool to select won’t do it probably. It’s not like photo editing. Blender controls are much better. Actually, in Blender, I think you just tell it what to delete. So it should have a delete all option. Cause I don’t have a flying clue what any of it is.

Can you do it in Cura? Two models merged, so perhaps it doesn’t want to delete the part from the other model. Time consuming, you have to select multiple times, I’m sure copying a finger will be fun, probably won’t work. Blender controls are a dick too, you have to click shift, to move the camera or whatever, too much work. The iPad app is easier, if only you can remove what you want.

Got trim working on iPad app, disable “Sym”. And it’s incredibly smooth the app. One free app on Mac, I had to force close, all I did was click edit.

Well, it will only select the entire object, so good luck cloning, just one part. And shaky hands makes using the Logitech Crayon very hard.

Look at the Scene part of the manual. Perhaps something in there will help.

How do you use layers and masks?

On another note, the Orange Pi Zero 2’s case fan is making noises. When turning it on makes noise, and now is just making noise again. Probably a dying fan, guess I should order replacement fans. Don’t buy that case for the fan, as it’s complete junk. Five fans for $11. But I might need spacers too, won’t know until I completely fix printer. For the bed, don’t mess with the Z offset, you might need to check if it’s level, and possibly manually level it. That would explain why it was printing perfectly in one spot but not another spot, somebody said the beds on those printers are warped. And I thought auto level would work. I’ll replace the bed first, as I have a new one. If it can level that bed, I might not need spacers. Hmm, but it’s just a removable bed that goes on the same thing, what part of the bed is warped? Might as well buy spacers as well. Use em or don’t, who cares. But that fan is annoying.

Don’t think it’s hitting cables, I opened it multiple times to move cables. Cables must get out of the way quickly if it’s a cable. But if the fan is dying, the temperature is going to sky rocket probably, already hotter then my Orange Pi 5, even with a fan. Can it wait till next month? I did transfer $50 to my checking, because I bought that app. But would rather use the money for stuff I need, like toilet paper, they should outlaw wiping your ass. They want to control what women do with their own body, so control ass wiping for everybody, including themselves. Get rid of electricity too, and everything else, we can go back to the stone ages.

Looks like, if you invert the mask, you can then remove just the part you want. Or if you want to remove the rest of it. That might help with one thing. No idea how to copy part to another part though.

Wrong tool for the job? More like almost right tool for the job. Perhaps if you use “Sym” you can copy the finger that way, like when deleting the broken finger, it deletes where a good finger is. But how do you do regular copy?

And you don’t need to know how to draw with this app, you just need something, and then adjust it until it looks like a penis, should be easy.

Maybe you mask the good finger, extract it, and move it. I don’t know if it fully extracts it. Didn’t when I clicked it, cause I kept trying. Didn’t appear to do much. Except move it.

Looks like the right tool for the job, the only app I can figure out. Thanks to it’s manual, and trial and error. Glad I didn’t get a subscription or pay $100+. Use the mask, mask what you want to clone, invert selection, then extract, and finally clone, and move. MEGA app is a dick, uploaded to the wrong folder, changed the default backup folder on my iPad for MEGA, guess it uploaded before I changed that setting. I don’t want my iPhone and iPad photos in the same folder, does anybody?

Here is the current photo of the hand, I removed one good finger, cause it wasn’t removing what I wanted to remove by it. Probably a bad 3D scan, don’t know which side has that, or if both do. They are aligned and merged, so good luck telling. You’ll need to open the separate non merged files. No idea how to fill the holes. I have a finger I can clone though. If all fails, I can just export the finger, and start over. Maybe extract that part, and move it, and delete if you can. Maybe you can delete in Scenes.

And if you don’t have a Logitech Crayon or Apple Pencil, you’ll probably have a bad time with that app. The Logitech Crayon might be cheaper, that’s why I bought it.

I need to sculpt some penis light fixtures now. Measure the ones on my lamp, and print some new ones. Shooting light out. Will PLA melt from a light bulb?

The Logitech Crayon is charging.

Installed it finally today, and took longer then it should.

But I need to loosen the screw for the spring. I looked at the photos on Amazon. And doing so is a pain, I have to remove it from tent, move tent, put printer on table. Not enough room for tent and printer on table, without printer in tent. And the gear on the motor might be too high, they said to align it though. Not sure it’ll move pushed down. It moves as it is though. It’s the motor it came with, didn’t know if it would work with the motor I have. That’s why I paid more to get a motor.

If you think replacing the hotend is hard, wait until you do the extruder. Even more of a pain. And they like using different sized screws, so you get to use many Allen wrenches. And good luck holding an Allen wrench. I dropped the Allen wrench, screws, and the spring.

My fingers bending can hurt them. Allen wrenches with a handle would be better. Not a skinny piece of metal, that I can barely hold.

Here’s some photos.

Helping hands might come today, but she isn’t dropping anything off until the fans come. I suggested that. No point until the fans come.

Photos taken with my camera, and a much better lens, then a shitty phone lens.

Now to go fix that screw, and maybe take a dump afterwards. Or maybe take a dump first. And this browser may cause my audio to have issues sometimes, like there’s a high CPU load. Not sure it did it with Firefox, should see if annoying bug nobody will report is fixed. Vivaldi is the browser. Since it’s based on Chromium, Chrome and Chromium probably cause the same issue. Or maybe it’s amd_pstate_epp.

Well, the cheapest plan from 3D Slash is only $2 per month, so I guess $24 per year. If the software has a major update every year, it’ll probably cost more then $24. But I’d rather pay $100 or so one time.

Why not use CloudCompare? It’s buggy, and a pain in the ass. I saved a bin file, it’s own format, and I can easily crash it over and over again. Just by editing it. Not compatible with it’s own format I guess. Are the exported models good or bad from it? Good question.

Guess, I’ll download the trial of that app, and see if it’s less of a pain in the ass. It’s available for Linux and macOS.

If it can’t import obj files, or USDZ, then it won’t be of use for me.

To paste the association code in Linux, you need a script that’ll type it for you. You think I’m manually typing a code? No.

sh -c 'sleep 5.0; xdotool type "$(xclip -o -selection clipboard)"'

Works like a charm, works for VNC, if you can’t paste, some browser VNC paste doesn’t work. Don’t need VNC anymore though.

And looks to be useless, you can’t apparently import anything, nice. You can export though. And you can import. Create a new model, and select from 3D file. Probably can’t merge and align in it though, looks very simple. Maybe not even copy. That is select what you want, copy and move it.

Testing the Linux version. That’s my primary computer. Not sure I want to pay $2 a month for anything though.

Wtf did they make this app in? The file browser isn’t great looking, it’s not the system file manager.

And I’ll need to lookup if you can copy in it. But it has a hammer, for removing blocks, nice, easier then CloudCompare.

Too fucking easy, compared to CloudCompare. But $24 a year, is sort of better then $99 for Cheetah3D, that is probably harder to use, and is probably macOS only. You get updates as long as you keep paying. And cheaper then PhotoCatch.

Don’t maximize the window in Linux, it doesn’t look pretty. Maybe it’s as simple as ctrl + c and ctrl + v. With the right tool. Well, maybe not that bad looking. Ended up maximizing it again. And selecting works, but is different.

Guess the internet only has video instructions now a days, bummer, no idea how to copy and paste in that case. I don’t watch videos. One site, doesn’t show the article for some unknown reason. Perhaps because ads are blocked. Doesn’t bother telling you though. So maybe one text instructions, but you can’t read it.

JavaScript already disabled, so they did something to prevent that from bypassing their blocking of ad blockers. Well, didn’t say anything about ads, after enabling JavaScript for that site. No idea why it was disabled then. And clicked the wrong link, that isn’t related to what I searched for at all, thanks DuckDuckGo.

How do you switch to expert mode? You probably have to pay. Pay to find out if it works, no thanks. I clicked the question mark, maybe it says how to copy and paste. Fucking video tutorials. Good news, the Linux version might be neutered, so good luck, or you have to pay. So not worth it. If I can’t determine if it’ll work for me for free, it ain’t worth paying a subscription for. A one time fee perhaps. And it has the options, you have to select something first.

You can adjust your view while working on it, non like CloudCompare, another reason it’s a pain in the ass. It might take a while to get it working though, thought it pasted it, guess not, so I just moved the other finger.

What did I do? Cut instead? Perhaps. And you have to pay if you want HD mode. And all the sizes. I’ll mess with it some other time, it’ll only take me a month or so to get the hand ready for printing. Printer isn’t working yet anyways. The heat gun and butt connectors came though. Heat gun not sealed, hopefully it isn’t a used broken returned one. I have some helping hands coming too, but apparently you have to rotate the cable when using a heat gun. Helping hand probably can’t do that, neither can my fingers, using fingers might be painful. Pliers might work, can you rotate stuff being held by helping hands?

I bought it from Amazon, don’t want to go inside any store, including cheap hardware store. Maybe a dollar more then their similar helping hands. I wanted the one with a light. But just got the cheap one without it. You might need a magnet and metal surface for the helping hands I bought, so it doesn’t tip over. But cables probably don’t weigh much.

Or use glue and wood. Didn’t know glue worked for iron. Also didn’t know iron was light. No metal surfaces to put it on, so I’d have to use glue I guess. Somebody said something about a flat magnetic, what is that? A flat magnet? They said magnetic though. And how will that help? Are they talking about the $800+ magnet things? For a $6 or $7 thing? Sounds like a rip off, I can buy better helping hands for less then $800.

You can’t export instantly for free, doesn’t sound like it’s offline. Guess their server is doing the work. And I can’t even select it right, or paste right anymore. Since it’s online, I can probably find something else, perhaps no app is needed for something else.

Maybe this is better. But I’d rather have an offline app. Searching for a macOS app, but also added Reddit to the search, Reddit usually has better stuff. Some stuff I find is outdated.

How much will this cost? Free currently. TBA for a subscription. Probably would only need the standard subscription. But if it’s $20 per month, I’ll pass. Don’t want to try it, and find out they want a ton of money every month. Might as well try it, might work, and free until I think the end of June. Reading Reddit comments first though.

I hate subscriptions, and I doubt that new app will be as cheap as 3D Slash. Going to see if there’s a trial of Cheetah3D and if it supports Apple Silicon Macs. It uses Rosetta. That’s a bummer, might run fine, but native is still better.

Might just have to use CloudCompare. At least it’s free.

My Python script to convert USDZ to OBJ using Aspose.3D is done.

Only way I know to get around not being able to write the files to a Samba share, is by using a tmp directory, and moving the files, since Python has no issues directly writing to it. Something Aspose.3D does, doesn’t work with Samba. No idea what the problem is.

You can find the Python script here. Because the documentation sucks for Aspose.3D, I don’t know how to write all the files using Python directly, without Aspose.3D doing it. You can do the OBJ file, but if you want the textures, good luck. So pass -tmp-folder to the script, and it will create a tmp folder in it, and move the files to the output file path.

usdz_to_obj -i '/media/junk/3D/Wooden Hand/Hand.usdz' -o '/media/junk/3D/Wooden Hand/test/hand.obj' -tmp-folder '/home/ass/3D/tmp/'

And the usdz_to_obj script:

cat bin/usdz_to_obj
#!/bin/bash
DOTNET_SYSTEM_GLOBALIZATION_INVARIANT=1 usdz_to_obj.py "$@"

You may or may not need “DOTNET_SYSTEM_GLOBALIZATION_INVARIANT”.

Now you don’t need an app on the Mac that outputs OBJ files, and you can modify the script to output something else. The app I bought claims to do it, but it doesn’t work. Works good enough, so I’ll convert the files myself.

Also, the output folder needs to be empty. That’ll keep my file system tidy. But you can modify it and make it do whatever you want.

So click stop? Good luck, it doesn’t stop very quickly. When did I try stopping it? Around 12 PM or 1 PM? And it didn’t stop until around 3 PM.

It’s a dick, and will start backing up, after you install it to restore it to a freshly flashed image.

Doing a full image backup may fix it, but you’ll have to wait until it isn’t running a backup anymore. It is dead set on resuming a failed backup, and decided you can’t do shit about it. If you think restarting the server and client will solve it, you are very wrong.

Why the fuck would I want to backup a freshly flashed image file? I only did that, because there appears to be no way to restore the file backup with permissions, for a client, without having the client on the client. Not everybody is going to keep searching for a solution, as apparently nobody wants to do that.

Looks like you can specify the client name though, if you read the help for urbackupclientctl. And the -v option appears to do nothing, still showing for my desktop, not my Orange Pi Zero 2. Doesn’t work with -c either. Just trying to list-backupdirs but for the Orange Pi Zero 2. Doesn’t appear to be possible.

Well, got to finish trying to fix my USDZ converter, so it can write to Samba share. That’s where I’m going to store 3D models. Not much else on that drive. Actually got to shit, didn’t want to come out when I got home.

And I think the Orange Pi Zero 2 can backup again. Took a while, I wasn’t watching UrBackup, so it kept trying to resume the failed backup.

Update
Follow the entire restore guide. The top part, clearly says to disable scheduling, so it doesn’t backup while restoring. That could be commonsense though, too bad I have none, and skipped that entire part. You only disable scheduling for the client you are restoring.

But if you skipped that part and have no commonsense, just do a full backup when you can, and it’ll get fixed.

Will I remember to do that if I need to restore again? Probably not.

Assuming it has the right permissions when it’s done, it should work. I made an archive of the backup folder, but that didn’t work, probably smaller then what UrBackup is restoring. So far, it looks like all permissions have root:root. That probably won’t work too well.

Too bad it isn’t an image.

You have to mount proc, dev, and sys to it.

You also need qemu-aarch64 if the backup is for an Orange Pi Zero 2.

If you stupidly delete everything on micro SD card, or the card died, go to UrBackup and download the client for the client you want to restore. Don’t install from their site, you need it already configured. You may have to change it to internet only or whatever.

Oh and the thing is a dick, it’s trying to back it up, and I keep trying to stop it.

I’d have the right permissions if I didn’t delete everything on micro SD card.

All I did was update some held back packages, apparently doing so killed it. The problem with using Orange Pi’s Ubuntu image.

If your micro SD card doesn’t have enough space, mount a folder from somewhere else with enough space to it. The same way you mount /dev to the chroot.

And it changed the permissions luckily. Let’s see if Pi is back in business, after I delete everything except the restore folder. How do you do that with one command?

/usr/bin/qemu-aarch64 /usr/local/sbin/urbackupclientbackend -d -c /etc/default/urbackupclient that’s what you run for the backup client backend, perhaps it won’t backup if you don’t run that.

And enjoy “target is busy.” when trying to umount dev and sys. In the chroot folder, not openSUSE. Probably Konsole being a piece of shit again. I have to completely close it most likely. Nope, good luck ejecting the card with that mounted.

Nothing is using those folders, according to lsof. Using umount -l worked. And killed my web browser too. Why the fuck would that kill the web browser? Or did I kill it when killing processes? Fucking web browser. Now it won’t open, nice.

Can’t open a new tab in Konsole either. Got to reboot after I fix micro SD card.

And Orange Pi Zero 2 appears to work again, just logged into camera connected by it.

If you are wondering, UrBackup file backups work for Linux with permissions. I probably need to lookup openSUSE chroot instructions, or perhaps don’t mount everything in /dev to the chroot dev, just the one thing it was looking for.

I’d give you a link to the actual restore instructions, but I closed the tab, no chroot instructions had to figure that out myself.

Not sure the client works without running the backend. Also, before installing the already configured client, run export PATH=$PATH:/usr/local/bin:/usr/local/sbin, or it will fail at starting the backend, and might not finish installing or something. If you can’t kill the processes from the chroot, just do it on the non chroot, get the PID using ps aux | grep qemu.

I ended up upgrading my Mac mini to macOS 13, so I can try Amita Capture. I paid the $15, or around $16 I think after tax.

Well, it is buggy. But the results, are probably the best, no idea what it’s doing, differently then say PhotoCatch.

RAW quality works, but only with USDZ, at least on my Mac mini with a M1 CPU. Review says it doesn’t work, but guess they didn’t try USDZ only. You can convert with Xcode or Python. I’m going to use Python on my desktop, still no texture though. Just like Xcode.

You need this for Python, the code they provided doesn’t work, but wasn’t hard to figure out, below is my script.

#!/usr/bin/env python3

import sys
import aspose.threed

# load the USDZ in an object of Scene
scene = aspose.threed.Scene.from_file(sys.argv[1]);
# save USDZ as a OBJ
scene.save(sys.argv[2], aspose.threed.FileFormat.WAVEFRONT_OBJ);

I saved it as usdz_to_obj in ~/bin, which is in my PATH. So I call it like usdz_to_obj path/to/usdz path/to/obj, you may have to save it in your home folder, the obj file. If you go to the above link, you can probably convert to other formats as well. And either edit .bashrc to have export DOTNET_SYSTEM_GLOBALIZATION_INVARIANT=1, or put DOTNET_SYSTEM_GLOBALIZATION_INVARIANT=1 before you run it, or make a helper script, and name the Python script something else. And that might be a bad solution, might break other stuff. And perhaps that’s why it got a permission denied error. I think you need to install .NET. Not the right openSUSE version. Don’t ask me which .NET version, perhaps the Aspose site says.

Don’t use a shitty online converter, you risk your model getting stolen.

I won’t pay for a subscription, but I will pay a one time fee, and it was worth the risk, I will barely need to cut anything from the model, only one model probably needs cutting in it.

No video support, so use ffmpeg to export frames.

And the Aspose site says “.NET Core: Dependencies of .NET Core Runtime. Installing .NET Core Runtime itself is NOT required.”. So what are the dependencies? Looks like krb5, libicu, libopenssl1_0_0. Apparently not libicu72. The only one available in openSUSE Tumbleweed.

Probably 6 or 7, but good luck with openSUSE, I just need the right libicu. Already have libicu-devel.

Maybe this will help. Nope. No new info really.

Made a script, and got rid of export in .bashrc. Probably a better solution. Still run it the same way. Didn’t actually test it though, well not with an actual file. Looks like everything is being passed to it, nice.

You might want to add checks, to see if file exists, and output is writable and maybe doesn’t exist.

I didn’t allow it access to the internet, but it didn’t ask. Too bad there’s no textures. And it has a texture now, if you need a texture, extract the png file from the USDZ archive, or it opens in my archive program. I need to make Python extract it for me, and put it with the rest of files, then it’s all automated. It already generates a mtl file.

Aligning sort of works with CloudCompare, I probably need to do the fine alignment now. And I still need to cut something off of it. Now to save this file, and finish it some other time or day. Use the default options for the fine alignment.

Only cost me $15 or so.

I’ll be having the camera and object as close as the last video was from now on though.

CloudCompare is the only free one I could figure out how to cut in. And finding paid software that will work in macOS or Linux, is too much work. Also, can’t afford much anyways. The paid one I have on my Mac, doesn’t seem to let you cut. Probably can’t merge and easily align either.

You can also use this on a Mac, to extract frames from video. It’s slower then ffmpeg though. I did finally get it to compile, but the binary provided works too. Well, it says you need a file, didn’t actually run it with a file path. And the quality is fine with jpg anyways.

Maybe they will fix the bugs someday, or not, it works as it is. But if it could do obj files, it would be nicer. I’ll eventually make my Python script better, so it can extract the png file. And check for valid paths. But I don’t need the textures, so maybe I won’t do shit. It’s for scanning stuff to 3D print, textures are useless for that, you need a paintbrush.

Maybe macOS 13 improved the API it uses. Didn’t test any other app in macOS 13, at least all the features aren’t locked behind a subscription. There might be some bugs that prevent some stuff from working. But luckily, you can convert USDZ. You don’t even have to do it from macOS. I won’t be testing PhotoCatch or anything else, as this app works fine for me. I should remove it if I didn’t. $15 isn’t that much to lose, to find out if it works.

I won’t be upgrading to the next major macOS version right away, if ever. Usually there’s bugs right away, they still haven’t fixed a bug on my watch, the wrong time is shown for when I got a notification sometimes. Might be wrong on the iPhone now too, good job Apple. No idea when my phone got the email though in the app. If you look at the email time, the iPhone was wrong too.

I don’t write reviews in Apple controlled App Stores. I wrote a bad review, and they didn’t approve it. Did they ever? Probably not, too lazy to look. And I’ll gladly use a third party App Store if I ever can. Apple can’t fix bugs, doesn’t approve reviews for unknown reasons, doesn’t even tell you why. Maybe the review wasn’t even sent to them. If you don’t like freedom of speech, Apple reviews are great. I was trying to tell people the app is useless, and they just blame T-Mobile, when in fact, it’s their problem.

So if you think Apple is less evil then Google, they both suck the same amount. Apple may somehow suck worse. Except, their CPUs are better. Apple does business in China.

If there was a stable Linux phone, that might be a good option. If it costs more then $200, it better have a good CPU. Good luck finding such a Linux phone. And I need the Mac now for converting photos to 3D.

Can you leave a review on the App Store? I should leave a bad review, as they refused to approve my review on a shitty app.

Are iPhones private in China? That is the government can’t access anything on them. Well, nothing is actually “private” anyways. Unless you don’t believe in psychic abilities. The harder you try to hide something, the easier it is to see.

Oh right, Apple isn’t the government, they don’t have to provide freedom of speech. But why would they care about a backdoor, if they do business in China?

I still won’t waste time writing reviews in their App Store, that won’t get approved.

Apparently there’s two options, use a featureless background, or make a 3D model of both sides, and make a new model with both of them, and align them. Here is an article that talks about it.

And I don’t think cloud in CloudCompare means what I think. Thought it was some online 3D editor or something. The name makes no sense to me. But the program works, and in Linux. I can actually cut stuff out of the model with it.

Couldn’t figure out how to align. Part of the problem is, the bottom side, is bigger. Probably closer to camera.

And I wonder if the background is featureless enough, with it that close, and I think I can just flip it.

FlashBuild 3D is completely free, but it doesn’t have as many options as PhotoCatch. Both in the Mac App Store.

The video feature in PhotoCatch sucks, you can’t see the entire timeline for the video, so if you want to mark a last image, good luck. I doubt under 10 images will get good results. No scroll bar. So no idea how to view the rest of the images.

But I’ll probably use it next time, because it has more settings. I won’t be paying $10 a month for the other features though, that’s a rip off. I would pay a one time fee, but not a monthly fee. And not being able to see all the images is lame.

Is that article old? Perhaps enabling images would help. But I’m too lazy to mess with it anymore tonight. It will scale it, so I don’t think I need to make another video. Would be interesting to see if I can just flip it with it closer though.

I used FlashBuild 3D the last time. The best feature is it has a queue. No queue in PhotoCatch, if you pay you can do two at a time, I can’t though, only 8 GB of RAM.

Now if FlashBuild 3D added the options PhotoCatch has, including the RAW option, I’d pay $10 maybe a little more for it. What settings does the $30 app have? Yes, I can use PhotoCatch for free, but if you have a ton of images, or frames from a video, you can’t see them all to mark one as the last. Might as well use ffmpeg, and delete ones I don’t want.

Oh and I’m going to try using a heat gun and solder butt connectors to do the fan when it comes. The butt connectors I got are from Sopoby, I don’t know if Amazon sells any directly that include small enough ones, shipped by Amazon though. The ASIN for the heat gun is B08VFY8THD. And B07S62KYSL for the butt connectors.

The mini heat gun, looks sort of like a soldering iron, but maybe fatter. Hopefully it works, and the solder is strong enough. As if it doesn’t stay soldered, I’ll have to redo it with a soldering iron. And I need to buy stuff to use that too. My mom bought the heat gun and butt connectors though. I’m running out of money in my checking.

Now I should download the trial of Metashape, and see if it’s any better, and I can use on my Linux PC. Does it support GPUs in Linux? They only list supported GPUs for Windows apparently. The standard version is $179. Might never have enough money though, depending on what happens in the world. It might do aligning as well. I obviously will never be able to afford the professional version.

But I’d pay $179 one time. And I need the education version, only $59. I think my sister is in school, so give her $59. I like buying software that supports Linux. And if it supports my GPU, and is perhaps easier to get the results you want, it could be worth it. Testing it now, just got the trial.

And it supports AMD GPUs in Linux, it’s already enabled, nice. I have a AMD RX 6600. And it froze, trying to import video, perhaps because it’s 4k. I can get the video frames with ffmpeg. It isn’t as simple to use. Do you have to align photos no matter what? It was on a tripod not moving. ffmpeg might be faster on my desktop. Is there something better to use in macOS? Perhaps you can use QuickTime.

I wouldn’t recommend using Metashape without a GPU that works with it. You might need to read their site on how to use it. Said some images failed to be aligned, even though a tripod was used.

So the default settings aren’t magic? Bummer, you’ll have to mess with it a lot, to get anything you want. I see no hand. I may have to take a video differently, or take photos with my camera. They say to use 50mm, I think my lens is 50mm or more that’s on it, well not in micro 4/3 format, but the “equivalent”. Seeing if the frames from other video, that is closer, does better. Or use masks, but editing 200+ images, is a pain in the ass. But a tripod was used, so perhaps you can make one mask.

And it’s much better if the camera is closer. You don’t need masks. Doing the texture is harder too. I don’t think I’ll buy it, too much work, Apple’s API is magic, and does everything for you.

And so is the belt. Don’t watch the video I watched some of, he didn’t show a view of under the printer, so you can’t see what he’s doing. You need camera under pointing up.

I didn’t take a video, so you’ll have to figure the belt out yourself. And that video is for a different printer. Not exactly the same on the Ender 3 V2 Neo. And if you get the belt on one side stuck, you’ll have to fiddle with it until you can grab it with something, like pliers.

But basically for the belt, on the hotend thing, put the belt through the little crack opening, and the part on the other side, will keep it there. At least I think that’s how it goes. And is it supposed to be smooth when moving it with your hand? If I remember correctly, it wasn’t exactly easy to move by hand before either. I think you have to do something when the printer is on. As if you turn it off, without doing whatever, it won’t move easily. I don’t recall what you do.

But did I put the hotend thing on backwards or does it matter? Well, I’ll leave it on how it is for now, waiting for the fans.

Here is a photo, but the cover is on. Maybe after I fix it completely, I’ll take a photo with it off. Or when I’m fixing it. The fan cover has to come off to replace the fan. Do those wire connector no solder things work? I could read the reviews, but I’m lazy. Doesn’t seem to have instructions on how to use it either. None of the photos show instructions, and neither does description. We have to go there anyways, to get the stuff for soldering, you need a handy hand or whatever it’s called. I may have had one, but probably gone.

Can’t remember where the wire was on bottom near nozzle. In front of it or behind it? Actually, might not be able to go behind it. If I looked up a photo of the assembled hotend, before doing anything, the fan would probably still work. If the wire is under the nozzle, it needs to be moved. If you need a photo of the hotend, go to Amazon. Or wait until next week, once I get the fans.

Also, if it’s after dinner before you get home, wait until the next day to do anything to printer. Perhaps you won’t want to get it done as fast, and might not break it. I want to print something successfully, anything.

To clean the bed it comes with, use water in the sink. Wanted to get glue I probably don’t need on it off. It’s washable glue. I did spray window cleaner on it, and it hit the Orange Pi Zero, surprised it didn’t go through a vent hole and fry it. It did get the top of it. Or maybe window cleaner is safe for electronics while it’s on, I doubt it. The camera connected to it, still loads, now how many times do I need to refresh to believe it? Logged in, it still works.

Using alcohol doesn’t work very well either. Somebody said they used window cleaner and alcohol, 99% or something is what I have, not for drinking. That may have been a glass bed though, just like who said to use glue to get it to stick. I like following bad instructions. If the bed is useless after cleaning it, well I have another one coming. I used a sponge, but no soap, just cold water. The bed is damaged from nozzle. So I need to replace it anyways. Wanted to successfully print one thing first though. As long as it doesn’t use the damaged part, it should be fine.

See the images of it here. The back of it isn’t great. One finger is good though, if I can select just it, I can print just it, and glue it on.

But I might just want to print the entire hand. Which will need a new 3D model, perhaps an interval of 10 wasn’t great, maybe try 1.

I use a tripod + Lazy Susan + video rig + light with a cold shoe. The phone is an iPhone 13 mini, I think. Oh and use the regular lens, not ultra wide or whatever. Didn’t realize ProMovie was set to the ultra wide. That app has more settings you can change then the included camera app. 4k may work the best, higher resolution probably means more detail.

Don’t ask me how to fix the back, other then with more images. And if that doesn’t, good luck.

It didn’t care about my hand and whatever else in the video. Cura doesn’t like the model. Perhaps it’s fine with just one finger.

Neewer Smartphone Video Rig, Aluminum Alloy Vlogging Stabilizer with Grips, Phone Holder, Cold Shoe Mounts, 1/4" Holes for Filmmaking & Video Producti
CAMVATE Handle Hand Grip Stabilizer Camera SLR DSLR for LED Video Flashlite 1/4’’ Black
Genaray Powerbank 64 Pocket LED Light
Revo Hot Shoe to 1/4"-20 Male Post Adapter

I think my mom bought me the tripod, there might be an email with what I asked for, but I’m too lazy to look. It works with actual cameras, if you are using just a phone, then you don’t need that one. But if you have a camera, you might already have a tripod.

And why did my music skip or lag? Thought that was fixed, guess PCIe Bluetooth isn’t perfect in Linux either.

Well, at least I’m finally using that video stuff. The light was bought in 2020, the other stuff probably too.

I need a heavy duty Lazy Susan, 300 pounds supported should work, and I’ll stand on it naked. Motorized as well, so it can rotate me, butt naked.

Then I can make CGI with myself. I just need a lady to scan too, and sign a consent form, consent to do as I please with the 3D model of her. She’ll be getting my penis, and I’ll be getting her pussy. That is probably a pain in the ass to do though. Also, then I have to be hard when scanning myself.

I don’t care that I keep breaking parts, that’s how you upgrade your 3D printer, break the cheap ass shitty ass plastic parts. They should sell it without all that stuff. If the motherboard dies, I’ll replace that too, not with an official one though.

Apparently I wanted to build a 3D printer, not assemble three things or whatever their site says.

I’d recommend buying a printer not assembled at all. And why do you need to do bed tramming with auto level?

Not putting new bed on right away. Need to see if I can clean the bed I have. I don’t think it needed glue on it.

I probably won’t put custom firmware on it, like some link on Reddit says to do. I’d rather not break the motherboard. Might as well replace it with a motherboard with different firmware.

Soldering isn’t hard, just need helping hands, a bronze sponge, and heat things, shrinks maybe? I have the soldering iron and solder. The fan it came with is probably junk anyways.

It’s hard to walk now, after hurting knee. No more dog walking. Or any walking. Maybe I’ll get a wheelchair. No need to go to doctor, as it’ll probably fix itself. And if you need surgery, you’ll be waiting a while.

Got here a day early, and the other stuff I bought. I’ll probably put it on after dinner.

Also got a Lazy Susan from Target, might work better for making 3D objects from videos/images.

Got a nice email, a bunch of numbers, and wants me to open a PDF. Not sure their malware will work in Linux though. Or in a VM running Linux. I marked it as spam, as Google can’t filter all spam anymore. Think it’s an Outlook email, probably why it didn’t filter it.

Just like when you get spam from a Gmail address. Perhaps I should mark all Gmail and Outlook emails as spam, unless it isn’t somebody I know. That is setup a filter, assuming it lets you exclude emails, the ones you know.

Is the nozzle already in it? If so, hopefully I don’t break it, when removing it. I got better nozzles. I did open that non sealed box, but couldn’t tell if the nozzle was on, didn’t remove anything from box.

You can print a turntable, but then you have to put it together. I don’t care if it has a motor, the one I got doesn’t. You can rotate it yourself, unless you have no hands. Not sure how you use a computer without hands though. With your voice perhaps, too much work for me. Telling it to move the mouse up up up up over over over down down down. Don’t say it what it knows, and you’ll have to repeat yourself.

Why doesn’t the Steam Deck wake up by itself anymore? Is it because Steam isn’t open? Or was there an unknown reason for it waking up? No idea. It’s in desktop mode, you can close Steam in that mode. It’s on a dock.

Well, good luck, you’ll need it. Broke the fan, and wires came off of it too. Probably because I can’t remember how the hotend was attached. 3D printers too fragile, so I’ll leave it broken. I did somehow get the nozzle it came with on it, off, eventually.

And hurt my knee, as I put too much weight on it, in the wrong position. The only place to mess with the printer is the floor. Unless I move the tent.

And if you get a replacement fan, you will most likely have to solder. I forgot how to do that, so I’ll have to pass.

Guess I should see if that turntable works for 3D scanning. Not that it’ll do me any good. I’m not buying a new printer.

The site they recommend you find a fan from, may take a long ass time to arrive. No thanks.

Oh and a plastic thing on the thing to plug the tube into where the filament comes out, broke off as well, seems to be secure enough. If you put some little blue thingy on it. Guess that blue thing makes it more secure. You might be able to print one out, if you have to buy it, you probably have to replace that entire part, so enjoy.

Now to order the fans on Amazon, for almost $11. Look for that little plastic thing on there first though, maybe if you buy a tube, it’ll come with one, not the one for hotend. Probably not, as the hotend didn’t come with it, or did it and I threw it away?

I won’t be the one putting it back together though, so if nobody can do it for me, I’ll just leave it in the tent broken.

Redrex Dual Gear Ender 3 Extruder with Nema 17 Stepper Motor Compatible with Creality Ender 3 V2,Ender 3 Pro,Ender 3 Neo,Ender 3 V2 Neo,Ender 3 Max Neo,Ender 5,Ender 7,CR6 SE,CR10,Vyper 3D Printer

Not that expensive, and the part where tube goes is metal I think. Hmm, you might not need motor, if you have one, if it comes with one, I do. Probably easier to buy it with motor, as motor I may have, might not work.

Might just risk it not working with new fan.

Oh and that Reddit upgrade guide is missing a lot of info now, and that link is useless mostly. Lots of 404 errors for the tutorial. Or it never had more info. Thought it did though. They may have had links to fans, not anymore. Just says something about the main board and nothing else.

I found a picture of the entire hotend assembled. That would have only cost $60. But I know how to attach that now. Should have looked that up, instead of using brute force. And I might be printing if I did that, oh well, probably needs a new fan anyways. And running out of money is fun, so who cares.

WINSINN 40mm Fan 24V, Ender 3 Fan Upgrade 24 Volt Fans 4010 Dual Ball Bearing, Works with Ender 3 Pro 3X CR-10S (Pack of 2Pcs)

The fans I bought, comes with two, so can break one. Got a new bed and the above extruder coming too. Going broke is fun. Well, I have money in my savings, so not completely broke.

I won’t be buying any app most likely, PhotoCatch works fine, and they all use Object Capture API. It may have a watermark, but you can most likely remove the watermark.

But if the app you use only does images, use the below script to extract images. You need ffmpeg, I most likely installed it with Homebrew who knows when.

cat export_vid.sh 
#!/bin/bash
ffmpeg -i "$1" -filter:v fps=6 image%02d.png

You’ll need to mess with the FPS option, depending on how many images you want. Six FPS seems to be the same as the 10 interval in PhotoCatch.

And if you want to specify the FPS when running the script, change six to “$2”. And then after the file, put the FPS you want.

And run it from the folder you want the images in, or edit that part of the script. I just made an images folder where the video is, and then used the full path to the video.

You could make it more automated, make the images folder for the video and store images there.

Now, I’d be more likely to buy an app, that doesn’t use that API, at least it might be worth money in that case.

You could probably write an app in Python that uses the API, but I’m incredibly lazy. And then you can automate the video frame extraction.

Can you use the API from a terminal? If so, you can make a script, which might be less work then Python. Or AppleScript. Here you go, perhaps. And what programming language is that? Is it Swift or whatever? Perhaps that’s easy enough. They provide most of the code you need. How do you export an .obj file?

Getting a Lazy Susan, so I can properly make the videos. Under $10 at Target, with my reward money. It’s a cheap plastic one. If I need to do heavy stuff, I’ll buy a more expensive one on Amazon. The wooden hand or whatever it’s made out of, isn’t really heavy. I’ll be using a tripod. Hopefully my iPhone can get close enough, so I’m not in the video. That might mess it up.

How would you reckon I rotate my penis so I can print 3D models of my own penis? Stand on the Lazy Susan? And rotate myself?

Going to try PhotoCatch once my light charges. I’ll try it with a video. Guess my M1 Mac mini might be useful for something. Cheaper then buying a 3D scanner. Now if I had the money that I spent on the Mac mini, I could afford a 3D scanner.

I might need to pay for it though, maybe the cheaper plan. I don’t want a watermark. If it exports the 3D file, you can remove watermark possibly. Might be a pain though.

A one time purchase would be better. I don’t like subscriptions. There’s this, but requires a NVIDIA GPU, no thanks. CPU is probably too slow.

It works, but perhaps put it up higher. Not on the floor. I put it on a white piece of paper on the floor though. But the back of fingers isn’t very good, need to make a new video. And the paper is in the model, and part of the floor.

I had to change the sensitivity or whatever to high, and the frame interval to 10. For the best model, use a frame interval of 1. That’s over a thousand images.

And what is it using to do it? The GPU? The AI thing? No idea. If it’s the GPU, I’d need a new CPU therefore a new Mac mini, for it to be faster.

The Morphi or whatever 3D editor on the Mac mini, can’t edit it, the model is too small. At least the .obj file. You can’t import the usdz file in it.

Not sure what the point of watermark is, you can probably easily remove it.

If I remake the video, I’m putting the hand on my storage thing with wheels. Then I don’t have to bend over to take the video. Might be easier to get enough of the back of the fingers. The thing is white, so shouldn’t need a white piece of paper.

What I need is something to put it on, that I can rotate, without the distance changing. You might be able to 3D print something. A vise that rotates would work for some stuff. Then I can use a tripod. I have a video rig for my phone, I used it, it has some handle thing that attaches by the tripod spot. You might get perfect results with an actual tripod and rotating it, without distance changing.

Here’s an image of the model.

It probably isn’t worth paying for the $5 per month plan, as you can probably remove the watermark yourself. The ten dollar plan lets you do two models at once. Not sure why it’s limited to two. And lame you have to pay $10 per month to do two at a time.

Big enough in Cura, but an error. I only need a finger from it. See what it looks like with a new finger, probably not great. It’ll be plastic, or plastic wood. It auto scaled it to 1000% though. Blender is a massive pain in the ass to use. FreeCAD could work. And you might need to pay $10 per month, FreeCAD apparently can’t do much. It’s all one object.

Probably have to print the entire hand, as it probably isn’t the same size. You might as well measure the fingers, and remake it from scratch.

You need to make it editable somehow, so it’s not one object. Perhaps Wings 3D will be easy enough to use. I think I used that a long time ago. Installing the Flatpak, not in repo. And no RPM available on their site. Doesn’t look the same, from what I remember. Might look nicer perhaps. Thanks Flatpak, can’t access /media.

flatpak override –user –filesystem=/media com.wings3d.WINGS there you go. Long time to import, and lagging computer.

Had to kill it. Was almost unable to, thanks to lag, finally got in a terminal and was able to. Otherwise, I would have clicked reset button.

Perhaps you can change the scale in Morphi or whatever on the Mac. That opened it fast and without issues.

Not sure any other scanner in app store, supports videos. I’d rather take a video, then many photos. All photos in one big file. If it has a one time fee, perhaps it’s worth it. $120 a year, how about $120 one time? Or $200 one time?

Update
I’m surprised it worked at all though. I doubt I stayed the same distance from it. So the API it uses is magic. There’s an app for $30 one time, but only does photos. I think it’s called 3D Photos Pro.

But instead of a turntable, or some other rig, use a measuring tape. You can stay the same distance easier.

Or make the video or images really close. Going to look for an app to export frames from video, that you can set an interval. I assume that means every ten frames, or whatever you want. If there’s a free app, perhaps I’ll pay $30 for the other app, that has no written reviews.

Probably wouldn’t be hard to make an app that uses the API though. But I support apps that aren’t a subscription. Need to also look for a 3D editor for the Mac that is better. Perhaps Meshmixer will work better. Says it’s good for making 3D printable stuff. And that sure is hard to find. Apparently you can’t download it, or it isn’t free anymore. Found the site, but it isn’t loading, DuckDucKGo can’t find the site though. The Autodesk site, that answers how to download it for Fusion 360 has a link, but possibly a dead link. So I guess you need Fusion 360 now.

DuckDuckGo likes finding massively outdated stuff.

Perhaps this will work, and it’s available for Linux.

How do you make a solid object editable?

Got the Meshmixer site to load, go to it without www. And there’s no Mac version anymore, so enjoy.

You have to select what you want somehow with Meshlab, good luck.

And it may not work with .obj files, nice. Rectangle selecting sucks. Guess it can’t do it then. You have to click Q, when using the points.

Well, good luck anyhow, it’s selecting stuff I don’t want.

Scrypted isn’t that great, you won’t get notifications for all motion, and no video acceleration on the Orange Pi 5. The plugin for HomeBridge might use your system ffmpeg, which means you can get hardware acceleration easier.

I ain’t remaking the Scrypted docker image, to have ffmpeg that supports it. Then you get to update the image manually every time there’s an update.

Oh and there’s an FTP plugin for the camera plugin, which means, I should get all motion notifications, that the camera detects. So it should solve that problem. And my air purifier has a HomeBridge plugin, it’s currently in HomeBridge on my Mac mini. But I’d move it to Orange Pi 5, if I use it for the cameras too.

There’s also Home Assistant. But the easiest way to install is with Podman, which probably won’t use the system ffmpeg, if it uses ffmpeg.

The developer of Scrypted or somebody said it’s better then HomeBridge for cameras. Perhaps if you don’t mind not getting all motion notifications, and no hardware acceleration on an Orange Pi 5.

I think the FTP program, acts as a server, then pushes it to some other FTP server, or you can store locally. I’d push it to my desktop, because that’s where I want to store all camera stuff. But how does that work with video and images? Will you get duplicate notifications? The camera takes images and videos.

I’m really lazy, so might just leave it as is. My air purifier stopped responding with HomeBridge, so removed it, unpaired it in HomeBridge, then some other error, not compliant. So had to do the pairing reset or something, and was able to re add it to Home app. Nice HomeBridge updates, it broke itself.

I should at least move HomeBridge to the Orange Pi 5 for the air purifier. But you don’t really need it in the Home app, the app for it, works just fine, and can schedule just fine.

But with the Home app, you can turn it on full speed every time motion is detected. Or turn the speed to max and then to low until no motion is detected, hopefully only when you aren’t home. So if somebody goes in your apartment, they will think your air purifier has a problem. Mad air purifier, telling intruder to leave.

Two way audio may or may not work, depends on the settings you use.

HomeBridge moved to the Orange Pi 5, apparently Armbian has no apt, just apt-get. Are they the same thing? Perhaps apt is an alias in Ubuntu for apt-get. May or may not change the cameras to it. And all I had to do was restore the backup, and Air Purifier still works in the Home app, didn’t have to remove and re add it. Nice feature. Makes moving it easy.

which apt
/usr/bin/apt

On my Orange Pi Zero 2, not an alias. The Pi 5, is running the Ubuntu Armbian. Or is that a script that runs apt-get? Didn’t check, don’t really care. Both commands do the same thing.

Does it work using HEVC? I’ll test soon. I don’t want bigger files, as it’s saving the videos to my FTP server on my desktop. HEVC is tiny. You could point the config to the crappy stream though.

Not worth using for the camera, no audio support with system ffmpeg, because of the codec they use, and apparently you can’t change it. And no hardware encoding, the internet doesn’t say how to do hardware encoding with the Orange Pi 5 with ffmpeg, or if you can. Maybe it doesn’t work with Armbian. Hardware decoding might work, didn’t try using software encoding. Re added the cameras from Scrypted. Reset the pairing on the camera, and reload HomeKit plugin, and you can add it back to Home.

If that email is really from Cloudflare, it makes no sense, it only stopped two security threats. So how many did it not stop?

I guess bots don’t care if you have WordPress or any other PHP, or even if the server has PHP enabled. Glad it’s not my server, so enjoy bots, trying to hack a static website. My host knows security better then me.

Your site saw more threats last month than the average site on Cloudflare.

And how does that site get more traffic then all my other sites? I don’t put anything new on it. Lots of bots trying to hack it.

On another note, I don’t recommend not eating enough fiber. Well, it could be a good way to lose weight. You’ll eat less, if your stomach hurts. It’s not a stomach ache, actual pain.

I could also be sick, my mom was sick, and I’ve been super tired for days. Maybe that’s the only symptom I’ll get. My sister got sick, and wasn’t even at my mom’s, her son was though.

Why is WiFi calling on? I have three bars for my cell signal. Thought a good signal, meant it didn’t use WiFi calling. Maybe Tello or T-Mobile changed something.

Well, the good news is, I won’t be able to pay any bills next month. You can thank the republicans, and the republicans thank the democrats. The debt ceiling isn’t a tool to force people to do what you want, I consider that blackmailing. If democrats did so to a republican, they’d throw a massive fit.

If Trump was in office, they’d probably increase the debt ceiling without any requirements. And spend more money as well.

They are throwing a fit, because the chosen one lost. Chosen by who? Reptilians? Or chosen by God, to see what happens when more people vote, well he lost. Now whoever chose him, found out how to get more people to vote. You just need a buffoon like Trump.

All politics is, is each side thinks they are right, and everybody else is wrong. And look what that results in.

He tried a screw driver extractor, and it didn’t work, it’s a kit, and he tried more then one bit. But the nozzle is brass, and the bits probably steel, it did cut some of it off though, when drilling it in. It couldn’t grab it, it just cut it.

I was going to order the part anyways. And some other stuff. I may be tapping into my savings, before the end of the month though now. I probably shouldn’t have got the “better” brass nozzles. Should just wait and get the steel ones. Steel ones are better for filament that has metal powder or fiber or something in it. Not sure Amazon has any good real metal filament though. If it doesn’t say the percentage of metal, it probably has no metal, just looks like metal.

Maybe I’ll get some wood filament though, my wooden hand is broken, probably threw out the part that broke off. If only I had a 3D scanner, then I could remake that hand easily. I could find some other hand, and print it instead, but I like that hand. I think somebody gave it to me for Christmas or something.

He tried something else, but don’t know what, he went into the garage, and I didn’t go that time.

Probably easier to remake the block.

No idea if the manufacture will email me back, or what they will say. Maybe they will send a free block. Then I’ll have a backup block. Stupid you can’t buy parts for it from them. You have to take a risk on Amazon. Or have a broken printer. Can you send it back without box?

Hopefully I don’t forget to reset the Z offset, or I might damage the new one.

And good luck booting a custom Linux kernel on the Orange Pi Zero 2. I found some instructions, but says you have to compile uBoot, and have a fat partition on the microSD card. Apparently you can’t use the official uBoot that’s already on it. Probably for a different Orange Pi.

And I can’t run the commands they say to run, I’m not hooking a keyboard and monitor up to it. You might be able to over USB. Just remove micro SD and connect by USB to computer. Either way, too much work, and not worth it. Just try a newer Armbian image, with a newer kernel, and see if it boots.

Podman isn’t supported for building Armbian, so can’t use their build script to build a kernel. Perhaps you can find a deb for the newer kernel for Armbian. Podman may work if you use root. And a newer build script. No thanks.

Perhaps run the build script in a VM. Then it can have root, and the shitty Docker it wants.

Most new filament I buy may be the Micro Center brand, it’s on Amazon. No Micro Center here. Somebody said their TPU works fine. So I can print a penis planter on TPU. Who said I’m putting a plant in it? I want to see how flexible it is. And put it on display for a decoration. But I’ll need a lot of TPU, cause I’ll edit the model, and make it way bigger, how high is the ceiling? You got to print it on blue TPU though.

Can you glue TPU? If not, bummer, no penis planter decoration for me. As tall as the ceiling, or not at all. Where will I put it? In the middle of my apartment?

Now if I print it on a metal filament, it can be a shiny dick planter. Or get wood, and you can print Mr. Woody. Except, it’s like 80% PLA, so a PLA/wood hybrid.

I may never get the printer to successfully print though, even if I successfully fix it. You have to fiddle with the Z offset. Apparently other beds are easier to level. But it’s auto level, so what’s the problem?

And if I get money next month, I think I’ll buy another hotend, so I have an extra one. Maybe buy one every month, in case I break a nozzle off in another one. I’ll have a massive stock pile. But there’s other stuff I want to buy, different filament, and a dremel like thing, a vise, and possibly a drill. Don’t forget the better bed. Looking for the dremel at her house is too much work, and I gave her it. So just pay $25 for a rotary tool, I just need it for sanding. A sander is too big. Unless it’s a mini sander.

“Who the fuck bought all the hotends?”

If you want to buy one from a hoarder, you better have a lot of money. Unless you want a broken one. Oh wait, I think a hoarder would charge more for that one. Not to mention, no amount of money, will buy it. Not even a million dollars.

The new bed can wait until I successfully print something. And the filament and everything else. It should successfully print something before next month though. If not, that was a good printer to buy.

You can always buy a $80,000 metal 3D printer, and print a block yourself, after scanning the old one, and fixing the model, so the stuck piece isn’t in it. All because you can’t buy anything from them. You might be able to find blocks, but they are probably junk. If the Ender 3 heater block works, it’s around $4 on one site. I tried looking that up, and the internet can’t tell me if it works, so I’d rather not buy it and it not work.

Update
Creality emailed me back, but want lots of info, before they can help me. Already ordered the part, so probably won’t bother. They want a video of the malfunction. Is one second long enough?

Don’t expect to easily buy replacement parts. I’m guessing if no warranty, they won’t help you. Even if you are willing to pay for part.